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Her  Imperial  Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager  of  China 
(By  Special  Permission) 


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Bi  Major  and  Mrs.  Conger,  and  are 
Billy  able  to  judge,  with  her,  of  the  true 
lire  and  intention  and  ambition  of  the 
Iress  dowager.  They  agree  with  our 
iDied  American  ambassadress  in  decid- 
jthat  the  motives  of  the  empress  were 
It,  that  her  love  of  her  country  was 
I  and  patriotic,  that  her  friendship  was 
■  ere  and  loyal,  and  that  her  ideals  were 
|j  and  noble.  Doubtless  mistakes  were 
l.e  in  policy  and  action,  but,  on  the 
lile,  hers  was  a  great  life,  tending  to  the 
pancement  of  China  and  the  world.  The 
Idq action  of  Professor  Headland's  book 
I  all  libraries  is  essential,  and  into 
ii  schools  and  colleges  would  be  most 
Biable,  as  it  is  up  to  date,  historical, 
•  ;raphical  and  comprehensive. 

Cora  Linn  Daniels. 

The  Gateway  to  the  Sahara* 

i  recent  years  much  has  been  published 

;erning  the  Northern  littoral  of  Africa 

i  in  the  case  of  Tripoli.    That  appanage 

i  Turkey  is  stuck  away  in  a  gulf  and  is 

E.om  seen  by  the  traveler  who  is  well 

cuainted     with     Tunis,     Tangiers     and 

)rpt.     Charles  Wellington  Furlong,  an 

terican  artist,  made  a  prolonged   stay 

i  the  capital   city,  took  excursions  into 

:  desert,  and  has  published  some  account 

this  experiences  under  the  title  of  The 

'yew ay  to  the  Sahara.     The  manners  and 

jitoms  of  the  capital,  its  people  and  pil- 

jns,  are  set  forth  with  some  detail,  and 

I  artist  has  used  both  brush  and  camera 

bis  illustrations.     It  is  a  rather  curious 

it  that  the  title  to  his  book  is  just  barely 

j  wable,  since  in  the  last  few  years  the 

i  avan   trade   to   the    Soudan   has   been 

ijely    directed    to    Tunis    and    Algiers 

<ause  of  the  chaotic  state  of  administra- 

i  in  the  hinterland.     Of  Turkish  rule 

re  is  very  little  after  one  gets  a  few 

es  from  the  coast.       In  the   interior, 

nadic  tribes  hold  sway  and  levy  toll  on 

caravans,   in   some   cases   taking  the 

ole  after  murdering  the  escort.     Until 

ently  it  has  not  been  uncommon  for  a 

avan    to    consist    of    twenty    thousand 

lels    carrying    goods    worth    a    million 


page. 

Lucius  Gullive 


Court  Life  in  China* 

Various  high-class  magazines  have  j 
lished  some  of  the  chapters  of  Profe 
Headland's  fine  volume,  now  brought 
form  in  a  way  that  greatly  enhances 
attraction  of  his  story.     Xothing  coul( 
more  unique  than  the  colored  frontispi 
painting    the     empress     dowager     as 
''Goddess  of  Mercy,"  with  her  rosar 
her  hand,  standing  upon  a  lotus  petal 
floating  upon  the  waves  of  the  sea. 
worth    framing.     The   brilliant   royal 
low   of   the   cover,   the   excellent   prin 
and  many   illustrations,   render  this  t 
valuable  in  itself,  and  the  vivid,  fascina 
descriptions    of   the   capital   of   China, 
officials  and  people,  their  dress,  ceremoi 
education,    furnishings,    equipages,    su; 
stitions,    gifts,    holidays    and    holy    d 
bring    the    great    Oriental    empire    clo 
into  consciousness,  and  the  characters! 
the  emperor  and  the  great  dowager  ar 
clearly  defined  as  a  photograph.     The 
tory  of  the   self-development   of  the 
prisoned  Emperor  Kuang  Hsu  is  ama: 
and  pathetic,  and  his  brilliant  and  ar 
tious  reforms,  which,  although  set  asid 
the  time,  are  now  in  full  use  in  many  * 
all  over   China,  would  be  a  credit  to 
genius  of  any  great  civilized  nation. 
was  at  the  back  and  beginning  of  the  1 
roads,  telephone,  electric  light,  phonogn 
and  the  introduction  of  no  end  of  cor 
niences   and   advantages   now   commor. 
China  ;  and  although  in  the  bold  enthusi; 
of  youth  he  issued  twenty-seven  edicts 
reform   in   a    few   weeks,   nevertheless 
started  them,  and  now,  when  both  he 
his    imperious    "mother"    are    dead, 
benefit  of  his  modern  ideas  has  begur 
be  enjoyed  by  millions  of  his  people. 

For  twenty  years  Professor  Headlai 
wife  has  been  physician  to  the  family 
the  empress  dowager's  mother, 
empress'  sister,  and  many  of  the  prince: 
and  high  official  ladies  of  Peking.  To  1 
therefore,  the  author  is  much  indebted 
parts  of  his  interesting  study  of  court  1 


Letters  from  China 


Letters  from  China 


WITH   PARTICULAR    REFERENCE   TO  THE 

EMPRESS  DOWAGER  AND  THE 

WOMEN   OF   CHINA 


BY 

SARAH  PIKE  CONGER 

(MRS.  E.  H.  CONGER) 


WITH  EIGHTY  ILLUSTRATIONS  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 

AND  A  MAP 


CHICAGO 

A.  C.  McCLURG  &  CO. 

1909 


Copyright 

A.  C.  McCLURG  &  CO. 

1909 

Published  April  17,  1909 

Entered  at  Stationers'  Hall,  London,  England 
All  Rights  Reserved 


JTfif  Uafefst'tjr  p«3B 

K    R.  DONNELLEY  &  SONS  COMPANY 
CHICAGO 


MOST  LOVINGLY 

TO 

lur  EtttU  dranb&augljtet 

SARAH  CONGER  BUCHAN 


'•»      /- 


FOREWORD 


BEFORE  going  to  the  Far  East  my  ideas  of  the 
Orient  were  vague.  From  my  entrance  into  China, 
on  through  seven  years,  I  worked  with  a  fixed  pur- 
pose to  gain  clearer  ideas.  To  avoid  all  formalities  and 
to  simplify  the  recording  of  events,  I  have  chosen,  and 
here  present,  some  of  my  private  letters  written  to  our 
daughter,  sisters,  nieces,  and  nephews.  In  these  letters 
many  heart- stories  are  told.  May  each  letter  carry  a 
ray  of  light  into  the  hearts  of  its  readers,  and  reveal  a 
little  of  the  real  character  of  the  Chinese  as  it  has  been 
revealed  to  me.  Our  experiences  in  China  were  unique 
and  extreme  in  many  ways.  Through  the  smaller  and 
larger  avenues  of  the  almost  iron-clad  customs  of  China 
I  was  permitted  to  pass  and  to  enter  places  where  I  be- 
held many  wonderful  views  of  wonderful  things.  That 
others  may  look  upon  a  modified  panorama  of  these 
views  and  help  to  correct  the  widespread  and  erroneous 
ideas  about  China  and  her  people,  I  present  this  letter 
compilation. 

Since  my  departure  from  China  many  events  have 
cast  their  lights  and  shadows  over  China's  domain.  An 
activity  has  been  aroused  that  bids  fair  for  cooperation 
with  other  nations;  with  one  stroke  the  Throne  has  been 
bereft  of  its  rulers;  a  babe  Emperor  has  been  enthroned. 
My  heart's  sympathy  is  with  China,  and  my  congrat- 
ulations go  across  the  great  waters  to  this  young  ruler's 
father  and  mother,  whom  I  have  met  many  times,  and 
with  whom  I  have  exchanged  courtesies. 

vii 


viii  FOREWORD 

Prince  Chun,  the  Regent  of  China,  is  the  youngest 
brother  of  the  late  Emperor,  Kwang  Hsu.  He  is  a  young, 
fine-looking  Chinese  Prince.  Prince  Chun  is  affable, 
while  dignified,  in  his  manner.  Mr.  Conger,  with  other 
high  officials,  has  several  times  entertained  this  Prince, 
the  Regent  of  China.  Prince  Chun  was  sent  to  Germany 
to  apologize  for  the  murder,  in  siege  days,  of  Baron  Von 
Ketteler;  he  also  officiated  at  the  dedication  of  the  Von 
Ketteler  Monument,  which  was  erected  by  China  on  the 
spot  where  this  awful  tragedy  happened. 

Her  Imperial  Majesty's  forty-seven  years'  reign  proved 
the  heart  and  mind  quality  which  made  a  strong  character, 
such  as  history  has  seldom  recorded.  The  Empress 
Dowager  of  China  was  a  great  woman,  and  China's  great 
men  recognized  and  acknowledged  this  fact.  The  many 
conversations  awarded  me  with  Her  Majesty  revealed 
much  of  the  concealed  force  and  value  of  China's  women. 
Ignorance  of  these  qualities  has  brought  a  pronounced 
misrepresentation  of  China's  womanhood.  May  the 
light  of  understanding  dispel  the  darkness  of  ignorance 
and  reveal  the  true  China  and  her  people. 

May  the  glimpses  of  truth,  the  expressions  of  love,  in 
these,  my  heart  treasures,  unfold  into  fuller  revelation 
love's  infinitude  not  only  for  her  to  whom  this  book  is 
dedicated,  but  for  all  who,  seeking,  shall  find. 

All  official  communications  here  used  were  first  made 
public  through  the  press  before  appearing  in  my  letters. 

Sarah  Pike  Conger, 
pasadena,  california, 
January  20,  igog. 


CONTENTS 


YEAR  PAGE 

Foreword vii 

1898  American  Legation,  Peking,  July  23       ...         1 

Western  Hills,  August  15 4 

Western  Hills,  September  15  .         .         .         .10 

American  Legation,  Peking,  December  16  .  .  18 
American  Legation,  Peking,  December  17  .  .  22 
American  Legation,  Peking,  December  20       .         .29 

1899  American  Legation,  Peking,  January  8  .  .  .  34 
American  Legation,  Peking,  January  8  .  .  -36 
American  Legation,  Peking,  February  i  45 
American  Legation,  Peking,  February  2  .  .  49 
American  Legation,  Peking,  March  12  .  .  .  53 
American  Legation,  Peking,  April  26  .  -59 
American  Legation,  Peking,  May  14                .         .64 

Peking,  June  3 68 

Western  Hills,  July  14 75 

Western  Hills,  August  4 78 

On  Shipboard,  Pacific  Ocean,  October  4        .         .       82 

1900  Nagato  S.  S.,  April  i 86 

American  Legation,  Peking,  June  4  .         .88 

American  Legation,  Peking,  June  13  to  July  20  .  101 
British  Legation,  Peking,  July  7  .  .  .  .  108 
British  Legation,  Peking,  July  15  .         .         .118 

British  Legation,  Peking,  July  18  .         .         .121 

British  Legation,  Peking,  July  20  (Siege  Days)  .  132 
British  Legation,  Peking,  August  7  .  .  -139 
British  Legation,  Peking,  August  13  .  .  .  152 
British  Legation,  Peking,  August  14  156 

American  Legation,  Peking,  August  19  .  .  .160 
American  Legation,  Peking,  August  20  .  .  .163 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  September  13  .  .  .  167 
American  Legation,  Peking,  September  28      .         .     173 

ix 


CONTENTS  —  Continued 


1900  American  Legation,  Peking,  September  30 
American  Legation,  Peking,  November  16 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  November  24  . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  November  25 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  December  12  . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  December  13 
American  Legation,  Peking,  December  31 

1 90 1  American  Legation,  Peking,  January  5  . 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  February  6 
American  Legation,  Peking,  February  25 
Steamship,  March  29 

American  Legation,  Peking,  December  20 

1902  Legation  Home,  Peking,  March  9  . 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  March  14 
American  Legation,  Peking,  March  16   . 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  March  25 

Peking,  May  9 

American  Legation,  Peking,  May  10 
American  Legation,  Peking,  October  3 
Peking,  November  13 

1903  American  Legation,  Peking,  January  9  . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  June  20 
American  Legation,  Peking,  June  21 
American  Legation,  Peking,  July  20 
American  Legation,  Peking,  July  25 
American  Legation,  Peking,  August  24  . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  August  30  . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  November  8 
Peking,  December  15 

1904  American  Legation,  Peking,  January  15 
American  Legation,  Peking,  February  18 
American  Legation,  Peking,  April  9 
Legation  Home,  Peking,  April  16    . 
American  Legation,  Peking,  April  19 
American  Legation,  Peking,  May  2 
American  Legation,  Peking,  June  3 
American  Legation,  Peking,  June  20 


i7( 


CONTENTS  —  Continued 


XI 


1904  American  Legation,  Peking,  June  20 
American  Legation,  Peking,  October  25 
Shanghai,  November  12 
Nanking,  December  6 
Han  Kow,  December  15 
Chtnkiang  and  Shanghai,  December  25 

1905  Steamer,  January  6 
Swatow  to  Manila,  January  9 
Steamer,  March  14 
S.  S.  Siberia,  April  17 
S.  S.  Siberia,  April  28 

1906  Pasadena,  California,  March  20    . 
Pasadena,  California,  November  4 

1907  Pasadena,  California,  September  22 

1908  Afterword,  China's  Bereavement,  November  16 


3i4 
316 

318 
328 

332 
33*> 
338 
34i 
342 

347 
360 

36S 

367 
37i 
376 


EMPRESS  DOWAGER  IN  PEARL  FRINGED 
ROYAL  ROBES. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Her  Imperial  Majesty,  The  Empress  Dowager  of  China    {By 

Special  Permission)       ......  Frontispiece 

Temple  op  the  Moon,  in  Temple  of  Heaven  ....  4 

Open  Altar,  in  Temple  of  Heaven 4 

Peilo  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs       ....  10 

Columns  of  a  Gateway  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs  .  10 

Gateway  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs          ...  10 

A  Ramp  to  the  City  Wall 12 

The  Great  Wall  of  China 12 

Teak  Columns  in  One  of  the  Rooms  at  the  Ming  Tombs       .  14 

Stone  Elephant  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs       .        .  16 

Stone  Priest  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs   ...  16 

Stone  Warriors  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs       .        .  16 
Our  Four  "Boys"  at  the  Dining-room  Entrance  from  the 

Court 20 

Our  Second  Boy,  with  Hair  Unbratded          ....  20 

Our  House  Boys  in  "  Full  Dress  "         .....  20 

Marine  Guards  of  Eight  Nations 28 

Our  Legation  Drawing-room 36 

Chinese  Officials  Making  Their  New  Year's  Calls,  January 

1,1905 38 

Ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps  and  Four  Interpreters  Who 
Attended  the  First  Audience  Given  to  Foreign  Women 

by  the  Empress  Dowager  of  China 40 

Lu  and  His  Family 52 

IWater  Clock 54 

\stronomical  Observatory,  Peking 54 

i  Examination  Halls,  Peking 56 

Jamels  and  the  Peking  Wall 64 

\  Coolie  at  His  Work 64 

\  Sample  of  Coolie  Labor  at  Shanghai  .....  64 

Map  of  Peking 94 

'Miss  Laura's  Pony"  —  Saved  by  Wang          ....  118 
Mr.  Conger's  Pony  —  That  Hated  Foreigners       .        .        .118 

xiii 


xiv  ILLUSTRATIONS  — Continued 

Prince  Ch'ing,  Premier  of  China,  One  of  the  Negotiators 

in  1900        ..........  130 

His  Excellency  Tsai  Chien,  Imperial  Chinese  Minister  to 

Japan 136 

His  Excellency  Wu  Ting  Fang,  Imperial  Chinese  Minister  to 

America 136 

Mr.  Conger  at  Work 150 

"First  Boy"  Wang  and  His  Family  Before  the  Siege    .         .  160 

Wang  and  His  Three  Children  Rescued  After  the  Siege      .  160 

Little  Paul  Wang 160 

Ch'ienmen  Tower 162 

The   Great  Temple  for  Imperial  Worship,  in  Temple  of 

Heaven 162 

Bronzes  in  the  Forbidden  City 170 

Sir  Robert  Hart's  Band 186 

Foreign  Ministers  Who  Signed  the  Joint  Note,  February  6, 

1901     (By  Permission)  ........  196 

Lieutenant-general  Adna  R.  Chaffee,  U.  S.  A.  (By  Permission)  198 

High  Priests  in  the  Lama  Temple 212 

Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang  .         .         .         .         .         .         .214 

General  Yaun-Shih-Kai 216 

Court  Princesses  and  Other  Ladles  Who  Attended  Mrs. 

Conger's  Tiffin  at  American  Legation,  Peking,  December 

26,  1903     (By  Permission)     .         .         .         .         .         .         .226 

Camel-back  Bridge 238 

Marble  Bridge  and  Pavilion  at  the  Summer  Palace              .  238 

Three  Hsu  Sisters 250 

Wen  Tai-tai,  Niece  of  Duke  Jung,  and  Her  Little  Daughter  250 
Wives  and  Daughters  of  High  Chinese  Officials  Entertained 

at  Our  Legation  Home,  March  24,  1903    (By  Permission)    .  256 

Entering  the  Court  from  the  Drawing-room          .         .         .  262 

Afternoon  in  the  Court         .......  266 

Starting  for  the  Palace  to  See  Her  Majesty's  Portrait  .  274 
Our  Chinese  Cart  in  Its  Winter  Dress          .         .         .         .274 

Moon  Feast  of  Our  Servants 276 

Princess  K'e  in  Festive  Attire 280 

Dowager  Princess  K'e 284 

Princess  Su 284 

Mongolian  Prince  and  Princess,  the  Latter  a  Sister  of  Prince 

Su 2§4 


ILLUSTRATIONS—  Continued  xv 

Yu  Ftj-jen,  Daughter-in-law  op  Prince  Ting  ....  294 

Yu  Ta  K'e-k'e,  Granddaughter  of  Prince  Ting      .         .         .  294 

Industrial  School  Boys  ;  Cloisonne  Workers    .     .         .         .  298 

Grand  Secretary  Wang  Wen  Shao  .....  306 
His  Excellency  Wang  Kai-kah,  One  of  the  Commissioners  to 

the  St.  Louis  Exposition,  1904 306 

C.  C.  Wang,  Legation  Clerk,  Now  a  Student  in  the  United 

States 306 

Prince  and  Princess  Pu  Lun  and  Family        ....  314 

Foreign  Diplomats  and  Chinese  Officlals,  1905      .         .         .  320 

Algebra  Class,  Chinkiang  Girls'  School          ....  334 

Granddaughters  of  Prince  Ting 348 

Lu  Tai-tai  and  Daughter 348 

Mr.  Conger  and  His  Legation  Staff,  January,  1905  .  .  354 
Princess  Shun,  Sister  of  the  Empress  and  Niece  of  the 

Empress  Dowager    {By  Permission)     .....  366 


y^p  r&dst-t^?-&~     vcm^**!-  *-* 


king  has  been 
e  of  the  Courts 
or  is  the  father, 
hinese  nation. 
he  chief  god  of 
i  either  Pope  or 
and  everything 

Dowager,  who 
nperial  puppet 
y  common  eyes 
but  clay  of  the 
if  this  during  a 
le  streets  early 
-naked  coolies 
t  of  them.  A 
i  dirt  over  the 
At  the  same 
traw  mats  and 
tretching  blue 
iason  and  was 
:ake  an  airing 
g  prepared  for 
of  the  fact,  and 
away  from  the 
se  living  along 
ip  their  heads 
perial  Majesty 

ied  by  Manchu 
ok  out  through 
his  buttonhole 

kler  for  form, 
hments   meted 

palace.  One 
r  was  that  he 
them  to  stand 
el  as  formerly, 
landed  over  to 
sty's  carriage 
1  was  recently 

to  the  throne 
lad  the  young 
'  the  memorial 

ected  that  his 


'  received  her 
owing  no  man 
ures.  Of  late 
given  them 
nd  when  the 
nrich,  visited 
audience  and 
fore  unknown 


ation  gathered 
Carpenter  only 


winding  streams,  past  one  great  palace  after  another,  and  at 
last  stopped  at  what  I  might  call  the  Hall  of  Audience. 
Here  we  found  a  large  number  of  the  ladies  of  the  palac 
awaiting  us.  They  were  beautifully  dressed  in  Manchu  cos- 
tume and  with  them  were  many  eunuchs.  We  were  met  by 
the  ladies  and  conducted  by  them  up  the  stairs  into  a  large 
room,  at  the  back  of  which,  on  a  platform  with  a  little  table 
in  front  of  her,  sat  the  Empress  Dowager. 


The  Personal 
Appearance  of 
the  Empress 


"  Her  Majesty  was  dressed  in  a  pale 
yellow  silk  gown,  beautifully  embroid- 
ered with  flowers  and  dragons  of  the 
same  color.  She  wore  the  headdress 
commonly  worn  by  elderly  Chinese 
women,  her  hair  being  fastened  in  a  knot  at  the  back  just 
below  the  crown,  the  front  of  the  head  and  a  part  of  the  fore- 
head being  concealed  by  a  silk  band  heavily  embroidered 
with  pearls  of  large  size. 

"I  was  struck  with  Her  Majesty's  youthful  appearance," 
this  lady  continued.  "  She  was  sixty-four,  but  she  looked  ten 
years  younger.  Her  face  was  plump  and  free  from  wrinkles. 
She  had  a  high  forehead,  elongated  perhaps  by  the  custom  of 
the  Chinese  ladies  of  pulling  out  the  hairs  at  the  edge  of  the 
forehead  with  tweezers.  She  had  a  strong  face  and  in  youth 
must  have  been  very  pretty.  During  the  audience  she  fre- 
quently smiled,  and  I  could  see  no  signs  of  that  cruelty  of 
disposition  with  which  she  has  been  charged. 

"  Beside  the  Empress  Dowager  sat  the  Emperor,  a  pale, 
delicate-looking  Chinese  youth,  and  behind  her  were  many 
young  Manchu  princesses  clad  in  gay  costumes,  with  their 
hair  done  up  in  the  gorgeous  butterfly  fashion  common  to  the 
Court.  All  of  these  waiting  maids  were  delicately  painted 
and  powdered.     The  Empress  Dowager  was  not. 

"  Lady  McDonald  made  the  address  in  behalf  of  the  foreign 
ladies.  She  spoke  in  English  and  her  words  were  translated 
into  Chinese  by  the  interpreter  of  the  British  Legation.  Her 
Majesty  replied  in  an  address  which  was  read  by  Prince 
Ching,  the  Premier  of  the  Empire,  and  which  was  thereupon 
translated  into  English.  In  this  address  Her  Majesty  made 
us  welcome  to  the  palace  and  to  China.  She  said  she  was 
glad  indeed  to  receive  us  as  foreigners,  and  that  we  should  be 
friendly  with  one  another,  for  were  we  not  all  of  one  family? 

"  After  this  Prince  Ching  presented  us  each  in  turn  to  Her 
Majesty,  and  we  were  then  taken  into  a  great  banquet  hall 
where  the  Empress  Dowager,  the  Empress  and  the  score  and 
more  of  princesses  sat  down  to  dinner.  The  banquet  was 
fine,  being  made  up  of  many  courses  and  consisting  of  both 
Chinese  and  foreign  dishes.  Each  lady  was  supplied  with 
chop  sticks  and  a  knife  and  fork  and  could  use  which  she 
pleased. 

"  After  the  banquet  the  Empress  Dowager  again  met  infor- 
mally with  the  ladies,  drinking  tea  with  each  of  them  in  turn, 
and  in  some  cases  throwing  her  arm  about  one  and  embracing 
her. 

"  At  this  time  she  gave  each  lady  a  present  of  a  beautiful 
gold  ring  set  with  a  pearl  as  big  as  a  marrowfat  pea,  three 
silk  dresses  from  the  royal  looms  and  a  set  of  two  dozen 
combs.  Throughout  the  whole  audience  she  was  exception- 
ally gracious,  and  her  manners  were  as  polite  and  affable  and 
at  the  same  time  as  dignified  and  ladylike  as  could  be  those 
of  any  Empress  of  Europe." 


LETTERS   FROM    CHINA 


American  Legation,  Peking, 
July  23,  1898. 

WE   ARE  now   in   China!     Six  months  ago  we 
were  living  in  our  Brazilian  Legation,  quietly 
and  happily  settled,  with  no  thought  of  leaving 
beautiful  Petropolis.     One  night  the  unexpected  cable- 
gram came  that  brought  us  to  the  Far  East. 

If  one  most  appreciates  the  pleasures  of  the  senses, 
Brazil  is  the  place  to  stay;  if  the  pleasures  of  thought, 
China  is  the  place  to  come.  It  was  a  cross,  at  first,  to 
Teave  our  beautiful  gardens  and  the  floral  hills  with  their 
all  trees,  luxuriant  vines,  orchids,  ferns,  mosses,  parasitic 
>lants  of  many  kinds,  and  rich  foliage  of  vivid  colorings. 
The  fruits  in  Brazil  are  delicious.  Assuredly  the  five 
senses  can  feast  in  the  tropics! 

What  shall  I  say  of  China  ?  My  thoughts  are  battling 
with  one  another.  Will  they  ever  come  to  a  settlement, 
o  that  each  may  occupy  its  own  province  and  do  its  own 
work?  I  shall  strive  for  this  settlement.  Here  every- 
thing seems  beyond  the  reach  of  foreigners.  China  has 
fortified  herself  against  the  outside  world  as  well  as 
against  her  own  people.  She  is  a  country  of  walls. 
The  Great  Wall  of  China  is  to  protect  her  vast  em- 
pire; the  city  and  village  walls,  to  protect  the  collected 
masses;  the  palace,  compound,  cemetery,  and  temple 
walls  to  protect  the  individual  families  in  their  homes, 


2  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

in   their  worship,    and   in  their   unfailing   devotion  to 
their  ancestors. 

Peking,  to  all  appearances,  is  a  city  of  men.  We 
seldom  see  the  higher  or  official  gentlemen  and  never  the 
ladies.  How  I  long  to  go  behind  these  high  walls  and  see 
something  of  the  Chinese  home  life !  Can  it  be  that  good 
fortune  will  ever  open  these  locked  gates  and  invite  me 
to  enter?  I  dare  not  cherish  one  hope  in  this  direction; 
the  recorded  history  of  more  than  thirty  centuries  tells 
me  "No." 

Peking  is  composed  of  four  walled  cities:  first,  the 
Native  City ;  then  the  Tartar  City,  containing  the  Imperial 
City  and  the  Forbidden  City,  the  latter  being  within 
the  Imperial. 

The  Native  City  is  to  the  south  of  the  Tartar.  The 
Tartar  City  has  massive  walls,  bastions,  heavy  gates,  and 
immense  ga,te-towers  that  can  be  seen  miles  away.  By 
paying  a  few  "cash"  to  the  gate-keeper  of  the  ramps,  we 
are  permitted  to  enter  and  spend  leisure  hours  upon  this 
wall,  where  we  are  above  the  filthy  streets  and  can  look 
down  upon  the  strange  scenes.  From  this  height  it  looks 
like  a  vast  city-beautiful  with  "the  green  things  growing." 

In  the  south  wall  of  the  Tartar  City  are  three  gates, 
opening  into  as  many  broad  thoroughfares.  The  middle 
gate,  or  the  Ch'ienmen,  is  the  largest  and  in  every  way; 
the  finest.  It  is  protected  by  a  walled  court  with  four 
heavy  gates.  Within  this  court  are  two  Imperial  Temples 
where,  in  passing,  Their  Majesties  offer  prayers  and 
sacrifices.  The  north  gate  of  this  court,  which  is  the 
Ch'ienmen,  leads  into  the  Tartar  City,  on  and  on  through 
many  gates  into  the  Forbidden  City  with  its  beautiful 
roofs  of  yellow  tile.     These  imperial  gateways  and  the! 


TEMPLES  AND  GATEWAYS  3 

roofs  are  all  we  know  of  this  forbidden  place.  The 
south  gate  of  this  walled  court  is  the  " Imperial  Gate," 
through  which  no  one  but  the  Emperor  and  the  Imperial 
Court  is  permitted  to  pass.  It  looks  as  though  it  were 
never  opened.  The  two  other  gates  opening  from  this 
court,  one  to  the  east  and  one  to  the  west,  are  for  the  mass 
of  the  people.  Above  the  south  and  north  gates  are 
massive  towers  of  marble,  granite,  and  brick,  with 
wonderful  teak  timbers  forming  giant  columns.  The 
Temple  of  Heaven  is  at  the  east  and  the  Temple  of 
Agriculture  at  the  west  of  the  broad  street  leading  south 
from  the  Imperial  Gate.  In  special  worship  the  Emperor, 
"The  Son  of  Heaven,"  visits  these  temples.  As  foreign- 
ers are  not  permitted  to  enter  these  high-walled  enclo- 
sures, all  that  we  can  see  of  these  temples  is  their  beautiful 
capped  domes  towering  above  the  protecting  walls.  The 
"Temple  of  Heaven,"  of  "Agriculture,"  the  "Sun," 
"Moon,"  and  "Earth"  are  national  temples  and  no  idols 
are  in  them.  The  finest  sacred  structure  in  China  is  the 
"Temple  of  Heaven"  in  Peking. 

While  in  South  America  I  learned  a  lesson  that  is  of 
great  help  to  me  here.  When  I  went  to  Brazil  in  1890, 
I  was  always  comparing  and  contrasting  that  country  and 
her  people  with  my  country  and  my  people;  and  to  me, 
mine  were  always  superior.  When  returning  home  a 
year  and  a  half  later,  I  had  time  on  my  long  journey  to 
review  my  experiences  and  look  over  the  thought  treas- 
ures that  I  was  bearing  with  me.  To  my  surprise,  my 
treasury  was  empty.  I  reflected,  seeking  the  reason  for 
this  lack.  I  soon  learned  that  the  attitude  of  superiority 
I  had  taken  made  it  impossible  to  accumulate  anything. 
When  I  returned  to  Brazil,  my  attitude  was  changed; 


4  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

I  descended  from  my  imaginary  height  with  the  deter- 
mination to  seek  with  open  eyes  and  a  willing  heart 
and  I  was  amply  rewarded. 

Now,  in  1898,  I  have  come  to  this  far-off  land  and  am 
somewhat  prepared  to  seek,  to  see,  to  detect,  to  learn,  and 
to  bring  into  my  life  perhaps  a  little  knowledge  of  the 
customs  and  home  life  of  China  and  her  people. 


[To  a  Sister] 

Western  Hills, 
August  15,  i8g8. 

WE  sailed  from  Nagasaki  and  clean,  beautiful  Japan, 
the  night  of  the  twentieth  of  June,  passed  through  the 
Yellow  Sea,  and  reached  Shanghai,  China,  on  the  twenty- 
third.  We  left  our  steamship,  the  Doric,  some  three 
miles  out  in  the  bay,  and  with  regrets  we  waved  our  last 
good-byes  as  we  sailed  out  from  under  her  protection. 
She  had  been  a  home  to  us  and  seemed  like  a  part  of  our 
own  dear  country.  Many  times  we  had  gone  out  into 
the  unknown  cities  and  back  again  to  her  as  a  refuge. 

We  remained  in  Shanghai  eight  days,  but  were  only 
in  the  foreign  concession.  This  concession  is  a  modi- 
fication of  both  the  Far  East  and  the  West.  I  never  saw 
men  work  before!  They  do  the  work  of  beasts  and  are 
treated  like  beasts.  China  is  thickly  populated  and  th< 
people  cry  out  against  any  device  that  takes  labor  am 
support  from  their  poor  coolie  classes. 

The  Taotai  of  Shanghai  made  his  official  call,  en- 
tertaining us  later  at  a  dinner  which  was  half  Chine: 
and  half  foreign,  the  courses  alternating.  The  Chines< 
food  was  served  in  Chinese  dishes  and  eaten  with  chop- 


IB  TJttl  "«■  "SI;  -— -    .-.f^^^Wlf  j 


Temple  of  the  Moon,  in  Temple  of  Heaven 
Open  Altar,  in  Temple  of  Heaven 


THE  LEGATION   COMPOUND  5 

sticks,  while  the  foreign  food  was  served  in  strict!}7  for- 
eign style.  The  Taotai  speaks  English  well,  and  so  does 
his  secretary,  who  was  educated  in  America.  Toasts  of 
welccme  were  given.  The  Taotai' s  wife  was  not  present; 
in  explanation  he  said,  "My  people  do  not  approve." 

We  reached  Tientsin  on  Independence  Day.  The 
American  Consul  and  his  wife  held  a  reception,  thus 
happily  remembering  our  country's  birthday.  We  came 
by  rail  to  Peking,  or  rather  to  the  station  five  miles  from 
the  city.  Three  members  of  the  Legation  met  us  with 
sedan  chairs,  Peking  carts,  and  the  necessary  mafoos, 
outriders,  coolies,  and  baggage-carts.  Our  procession 
was  formed,  and  we  started  for  Peking. 

China  seems  to  be  one  vast  graveyard.  Many, 
many  graves,  anywhere  and  everywhere,  lay  along  our 
route  to  the  city.  After  entering  the  gate  of  the  Native 
City  we  still  had  quite  a  journey  before  reaching  the  gate 
of  the  Tartar  City.  Many  of  the  streets  were  crowded 
with  men.  China  surely  is  the  country  of  the  "blue 
gown."  We  at  last  reached  the  wall  of  the  American 
Legation  compound  and  entered  the  large  gate,  where 
Colonel  Denby,  the  American  Minister,  met  us.  We 
had  reached  what  was  to  be  our  home!  It  was  not  pre- 
possessing; the  compound,  however,  was  quiet,  clean, 
and  green.  As  we  looked  out  of  our  windows  and  doors, 
it  seemed  almost  as  though  we  were  looking  into  the 
woods.  This  was  refreshing.  A  "compound"  is  a 
walled    enclosure    divided    into    courts    with    buiidinsrs. 

o 

We  remained  in  the  American  Legation  compound  three 
weeks  before  coming  to  the  Hills. 

Foreigners  had  gone  for  the  summer  to  the  Western 
Hills,   fifteen  miles  from  the  city,   or  to  the  seashore. 


6  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

Those  who  go  to  the  Hills  live  in  temples,  and  our  tem- 
ple, "San  Shan  An,"  was  ready  for  us.  We  came  out 
on  ponies  and  donkeys.  Our  Chinese  head  boy  with 
the  many  other  servants  moved  what  we  needed.  The 
dishes,  glassware,  sewing-machine,  and  like  breakable 
things,  had  to  be  carried  by  coolies  in  baskets.  We  told 
our  head  boy  what  we  wished  to  take  with  us,  and  he 
saw  that  it  went.  I  never  knew  such  wonderful  servants 
in  my  life;  they  are  quiet,  gentle,  kind,  and  willing. 
Each  knows  his  own  work  and  does  it.  We  tell  our  head 
boy  what  we  wish  done,  and  he  hands  it  on  down  to  the 
one  whose  place  it  is  to  do  it.  We  have  many  servants; 
this  is  a  necessity  here.  Their  wages  are  small,  but  in 
the  spring  and  autumn  we  are  expected  to  give  them 
suits  of  clothes.  We  provide  their  dress  suits,  all  their 
official  hats,  coats,  boots,  scarfs,  and  cuffs.  At  their  New 
Year's  season  we  are  expected  to  give  them  a  half-month's 
wages.  Then,  too,  there  is  a  "squeeze,"  or  commission, 
on  everything  that  comes  into  our  Legation  home.  The 
servants  are  economical,  and  get  along  with  the  simplest 
equipment  for  their  work.  They  bring  good  results 
from  what  we  would  call  impossibles.  We  ask  for  some- 
thing that  we  wish  to  buy;  they  will  say,  "No  got;  no 
have  Peking;  Chinaman  can  make."  And  they  do 
"make"  and  make  it  well.  The  paper  on  one  of  the 
rooms  in  the  Legation  was  soiled.  I  asked  if  there  were 
pieces  like  it;  they  looked  and  said,  "No  piecee  —  China- 
man can  make."  An  aged  man  came,  looked  carefully 
at  the  wall,  and  in  a  day  or  two  I  received  a  dozen  pieces 
of  paper  about  two  feet  square,  decorated  by  hand  in  the 
same  pattern  and  colors  as  that  on  the  wall. 

When  I  first  went  into  my  kitchen  I  was  heart-sick; 


A  CHINESE  RANGE  7 

it  seemed  to  me  there  was  literally  nothing  with  which 
to  work,  not  even  a  range.  I  said  to  Mr.  Conger,  "We 
have  an  empty  kitchen,  no  cooking-stove,  or  range, — 
what  can  we  do?" 

"There  is  nothing  of  the  kind  to  be  obtained  here," 
was  his  answer.  "See  the  cook  and  learn  what  is  needed 
and  I  will  send  home  at  once  for  the  kitchen  necessi- 
ties." 

The  cook  was  interviewed,  and  his  reply  was,  "All 
proper.     Can  get  pans,  and  all  proper." 

I  looked  in  surprise  and  visited  the  kitchen  again. 
Across  one  end  was  a  piece  of  masonry  about  six  feet 
long,  three  feet  wide,  and  two  and  one-half  feet  high. 
This  masonry  had  three  small  holes  in  the  top,  with 
loose  bricks  placed  about  them.  At  the  front  were  cor- 
responding holes  for  the  fire.  There  was  no  chimney! 
High  in  the  room  was  an  opening  for  the  smoke  to  escape. 
There  was  an  old-fashioned,  foreign  brick  oven  in  a 
corner  near  this  Chinese  range.  It  seemed  to  me  that 
no  meal  could  be  cooked  upon  such  a  thing,  but  the 
cook  and  the  first  boy  insisted  that  it  was  "all  proper," 
and  the  work  then  begun  was  continued.  They  have 
prepared  many  excellent  course  dinners  upon  it.  These 
Chinese  have  methods  of  their  own  for  obtaining  results, 
but  their  methods  are  not  ours.  At  first  I  tried  to  have 
them  learn  my  way  of  doing,  but  I  have  already  con- 
cluded to  tell  them  what  I  want,  and  let  them  get  the 
results  in  their  own  way;   I  am  rarely  disappointed. 

The  wheelbarrow  men  and  others,  who  do  work  else- 
where apportioned  to  beasts  and  mechanical  contrivances, 
eat  little  else  than  two  bowls  of  rice  a  day,  and  wear 
little  clothing.     Civilization  (so  called)  brings  the  thought 


8  LETTERS   FROM  CHINA 

to  this  country  that  their  physical  bodies  cannot  have 
strength  with  such  food,  nor  keep  healthy  with  so  little 
clothing,  and  that  their  bodies  will  wear  out  in  a  few 
years.  Yet  these  toilers  are  strong,  do  their  work  well, 
and  are  of  good  cheer. 

In  our  household  the  head  boy  manages  the  house 
work.  He  brings  me  the  expense  account,  itemized  in 
English,  day  by  day;  at  the  end  of  the  month  he  brings 
in  the  entire  expense  account  of  all  the  departments. 
The  other  servants  do  work  according  to  their  grade. 
The  coolies  never  give  any  personal  service;  the  "boys" 
do  that.  I  have  learned  to  ring  the  bell  and  tell  what 
I  wish  done,  and  the  right  one  is  told  to  do  it  by  the  one 
who  responds  to  my  call.  If  the  boys  did  the  coolies' 
work,  there  would  be  no  need  of  coolies.  These  ser- 
vants never  trespass  upon  one  another's  rights. 

It  proves  itself  an  axiom  —  "There  are  no  idle  people 
in  China."  They  work  steadily  on,  whatever  the  cir- 
cumstances, never  showing  nervousness  in  any  degree. 
They  work  for  hours  consecutively,  sleep  when  and 
where  they  can;  they  will  even  sleep  while  sitting  on  a 
moving  camel,  and  I  have  seen  them  literally  use  a  stone 
for  a  pillow.  Many  hidden  meanings  in  the  Bible  are 
revealed  to  me  here;  as  this  nation  has  retained  from 
generation  to  generation  many  customs  common  in  Bible 
times. 

The  Chinese  are  quiet  and  accurate  in  their  methods. 
They  handle  large  columns  of  figures,  make  delicate 
calculations,  and  no  amount  of  confusion  or  jostling 
disturbs  them;  they  work  calmly  on  and  seldom  make 
mistakes.  In  Japan  and  in  the  foreign  concessions  I 
noticed    that   the   banks  employ  the   Chinese  for  their 


LIVING  IN  TEMPLES  9 

most  important  detail  work.  When  in  one  of  the  large 
banks,  I  asked  why  the  Chinese  were  employed  in  these 
responsible  positions.  The  reply  was:  "The  three 
principal  reasons  are  that  they  are  honest,  self-possessed, 
and  accurate.  They  move  so  quietly  that  we  are  aston- 
ished at  what  they  accomplish." 

In  these  Western  Hills  are  many  temples  composed 
of  numerous  courts  and  one-story  buildings  within  a 
walled  enclosure.  We  are  greatly  pleased  with  our 
temple.  The  priests  and  the  worship  of  the  gods  are 
apart  from  us.  There  are  diplomats  and  many  Ameri- 
can and  English  missionaries  in  the  Western  Hills  for 
the  summer.  I  wish  that  you  might  see  our  temple 
home.  From  our  broad  veranda,  with  our  field-glasses 
we  can  see  the  city  fifteen  miles  away.  Intervening  is 
a  far-reaching  valley  of  green  fields  dotted  with  cemetery 
groves.  All  is  quiet  and  restful.  There  are  stone  walks 
in  many  directions  over  these  hills,  and  we  take  long 
strolls  and  donkey  rides,  as  our  ponies  cannot  climb 
the  steep,  rough  paths.  The  donkeys  are  small,  but 
sure-footed  and  carry  us  with  safety.  The  donkey  driver 
follows  afoot  encouraging  the  little  beast  to  go  faster 
or  to  be  careful.  The  Chinese  seem  kind  to  their  ani- 
mals, but  I  am  told  that  all  are  not  so  kind.  Yet  I  have 
seen  little  cruelty  in  China.  Cruelty  is  a  dark  thread 
woven  into  the  fabric  of  every  nation  and  this  thread 
weakens  the  fabric. 


io  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Nephew] 

Western  Hills, 
September  75,  i8g8. 

WE  left  the  Western  Hills  for  a  trip  to  the  Great 
Wall  and  Ming  Tombs  on  September  12.  The  outfit  for 
the  journey  came  from  Peking,  and  to  our  amazement  it 
consisted  of  a  mule  litter,  which  litter  is  composed  of  a 
driver,  his  pack  donkey,  and  a  large  chair  carried  upon 
the  backs  of  two  mules. 

There  were  also  four  donkeys  to  ride,  one  donkey  for 
pack,  and  four  donkey-men;  two  carts,  two  men,  and 
eight  mules.  In  addition  to  these  we  took  three  ponies, 
first  mafoo  (stableman),  head  boy  Lu,  second  boy  Liu, 
first  cook,  and  a  coolie.  Think  of  all  this  preparation 
for  a  four  days'  journey  for  four  people!  I  assure  you 
we  formed  an  imposing  procession.  Mr.  Conger  started 
out  on  a  pony;  daughter  and  niece  on  donkeys  with  dark- 
blue  velvet  saddles  trimmed  with  red,  and  about  the 
donkeys'  necks  full  strings  of  sleigh  bells  decorated  with 
red  tassels;  and  I  in  the  mule  litter.  Each  of  the  girls 
had  with  her  a  driver  dressed  in  blue,  who  followed  afoot. 
We  took  turn  about  in  the  litter,  one  hour  each. 

The  country  is  well  cultivated,  producing  broom- 
corn,  beans,  millet,  and  buckwheat.  But  few  acres  go 
to  make  these  Chinese  farms.  They  are  mere  gardens 
in  comparison  with  Iowa  farms,  yet  they  are  larger  than 
any  we  had  seen  before  in  China.  Such  thrift!  Every 
part  of  every  crop  is  utilized.  The  farmers  live  in  vil- 
lages, and  none  but  the  dead  occupy  land  that  can  be 
used  for  crops.  In  some  parts  of  the  country  there  are 
isolated  graves;    in  other  parts  there  are  private  ceme- 


Peilo  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 

Columns  of  a  Gateway  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 

Gateway  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 


A  CHINESE   INN  n 

teries,  walled  in.  Within  these  walled  enclosures  are 
shrines,  temples  with  idols,  monuments,  stone  walks, 
and  beautiful  evergreen  trees.  We  tiffined  at  one 
o'clock  with  same  courses  and  form  as  when  at  home. 
The  food,  table  linen,  dishes,  and  flowers  were  brought 
with  us. 

At  three  o'clock  all  was  packed  and  we  were  on  our 
way  to  Nankou,  which  we  reached  about  six  o'clock.  We 
rode  through  the  gate  into  the  open  court  of  the  inn,  which 
is  dooryard  and  barnyard  all  in  one.  Our  rooms  were 
ready  for  us;    but  a  Chinese  inn   is  unlike  anything 

|we  had  ever  seen.  This  inn. is  a  compound  containing 
many  courts  and  one-story  buildings.  Each  room  is  fur- 
nished with  a  stationary  Hang  across  one  of  its  sides  or 
ends.    These  ttangs,  or  Chinese  beds,  are  from  five  to 

:  seven  feet  wide  and  about  two  feet  high,  walled  and  cov- 
ered with  brick.     Under  them  the  Chinese  build  a  fire 

!  in  the  winter.  These  k'angs  are  covered  with  reed  mat- 
ting, and  upon  each  is  a  small,  low  table.  Each  room 
is  also  furnished  with  a  table  about  three  feet  square,  two 
chairs,  and  two  stools,  or  benches.    The  floors  of  the 

[rooms  are  of  brick,  and  there  are  paper  windows  and 
doors.     At  each  stop  we  had  two  rooms  and  both  were 

[furnished  the  same;  never  more,  and  never  less.  Aside 
from  these  furnishings,  our  boys  brought  with  us  every- 
thing that  we  were  obliged  to  use.     Head  boy  Lu  settled 

i  all  bills,  and  the  second  boy  Liu  attended  to  the  table  and 

■its  belongings,  and  the  packing  of  the  mule  litter.     The 

[coolie  washed  the  dishes,  made  up  the  beds,  and  packed 
them.  Every  one  had  his  part  to  do,  and  did  it.  Our 
duties  were  to  put  on  our  hats  and  gloves,  mount  our 
donkeys,  fall  into  line,  and  go.    There  is  peaceful  beauty 


i2  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

in  this  methodical  way  of  doing;  order  and  quiet  is  the 
Chinese  rule  for  action. 

September  13.  What  an  experience!  The  crowing 
of  the  cocks,  the  braying  of  the  many  donkeys,  the  bleating 
of  the  sheep,  the  constant  ringing  of  the  bells  worn  by  the 
moving,  laden  camels  in  the  endless  caravan,  filled  the  air 
with  dream  melody  all  unreal  to  us,  the  night  through. 

After  a  good  breakfast  we  were  off  for  the  Great  Wall 
of  China,  fourteen  miles  away.  We  left  the  carts  at  Nan- 
kou  until  our  return.  The  ride  through  the  Nankou  pass 
was  most  delightful.  It  was  up,  up,  up  all  the  way,  climb- 
ing a  mountainous  road  which  was,  however,  broad  and 
well  kept.  On  one  side  were  sheer  cliffs,  on  the  other  a 
rocky  river-bed  with  its  clear  rippling  stream.  Such  a 
happy  ride!  On  our  way  we  saw  many  hundreds  of  fine 
camels;  these  camels  rest  during  the  day  and  travel 
with  their  packs  at  night.  The  prosperity  of  the 
country  was  shown  by  the  fine  flocks  of  sheep,  in  the 
hundreds  of  mules  laden  with  wool,  hides,  tea,  fruits,  grain, 
fodder,  cotton,  and  other  commodities.  We  met  pack- 
cattle  from  Mongolia  with  red-faced  Mongol  drivers. 
We  also  met  a  number  of  mule  litters,  a  few  carts  drawn 
by  mules,  and  many  men  riding  on  donkeys.  All  were 
bent  on  business,  and  we  were  forcibly  impressed  with  the 
fact  that  the  Chinese  do  not  seek  their  pleasure  in  travel. 
This  well-kept  road  is  a  direct  pass  over  the  mountains 
from  Peking  to  Mongolia  and  Russia.  Most  of  the  roads 
that  we  have  travelled  in  China  have  been  poorly  kept. 
The  highways  are  mostly  footpaths,  which  are  sufficient 
for  Chinese  travel. 

We  reached  the  Great  Wall  at  ten  o'clock,  climbed  to 
the  top,  then  walked,  and  climbed  on  and  on,  up  and  down, 


A  Ramp  to  the  City  Wall 
The    Great  Wall  of   China 


THE  GREAT  WALL  13 

until  we  reached  an  elevation  where  we  could  catch  a  fine 
view  of  the  mountains  and  of  this  wonderful  coiling, 
climbing,  leaping  thing.  This  Wall  is  wonderful  indeed! 
It  speaks  of  great  engineering,  great  labor,  great  time, 
great  expense,  and  patience  without  end.  Its  endurance 
tells  much  of  the  thought  that  was  put  into  it;  thought 
symbolical  of  protection,  unity,  strength.  This  Great 
Wall  of  China  was  built  more  than  two  hundred  years 
before  the  birth  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  the  work  was  finished 
in  ten  years.  Think  of  it,  over  two  thousand  years  ago! 
It  begins  at  Shan-hai  Kwan  by  the  sea  and  climbs  over 
the  mountains,  across  the  northern  boundary  of  China 
proper,  until  it  reaches  the  desert  of  Gobi,  north  of  Thibet. 
It  is  fifteen  hundred  miles  long,  about  thirty-five  feet  wide, 
and  varies  in  height  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet.  The  facings 
are  of  brick  several  feet  in  thickness,  the  interjacent  shell 
being  filled  with  stone  and  earth  stamped  solid ;  it  is  sur- 
mounted with  a  paving  of  brick  similar  to  that  of  the  fac- 
ing. It  is  said  that  it  took  an  army  of  three  hundred 
thousand  men  to  protect  the  builders,  and  more  than  a 
million  men  to  build  the  wall.  But  your  encyclopaedia  will 
tell  you  all  this  —  why  should  I  go  on  ? 

Three  monuments  remain  to  remind  the  generations 
that  the  Emperor  Ch'in  Shih  was  a  great  man :  first,  the 
Great  Wall  of  China,  which  he  built;  second,  the  title 
Huang- ti  for  Emperor,  which  he  was  the  first  to  adopt; 
third,  the  name  China.  Still  this  man  is  remembered  in 
China  as  a  burner  of  books  and  a  murderer  of  scholars, 
rather  than  as  builder  of  this  wonderfully  aged  wall,  or 
founder  of  this  immense  and  long-standing  empire.  We 
ate  our  picnic  tiffin  in  one  of  the  towers  upon  the  Wall,  and 
later  we  went  through  the  gate  into  Mongolia,  against 


i4  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

which  China  was  fortified.  As  we  sat  on  the  rocks  in 
Mongolia  musing  and  looking  upon  that  aged,  yet  well- 
preserved,  wall  structure,  and  tried  to  realize  that  men 
over  two  thousand  years  ago  walked  upon  that  soil,  made 
and  placed  those  steadfast  bricks,  we  were  brought  back 
to  the  "now." 

Here  came  quietly  along  an  orderly  drove  of  about 
two  hunderd  swine  from  the  mountains  of  Mongolia. 
On  close  observation  we  discovered  that  each  foot  of  each 
beast  was  shod  with  a  leather  sock  to  protect  it  from  the 
sharp  stones.  Foolish,  do  you  say?  Not  one  of  them 
seemed  foot-sore,  and  they  travelled  on  at  their  master's 
bidding  without  rebellion.  I  call  this  a  wonderful  phase 
of  patience  and  economy.  Patience  in  making  and  tying 
on  those  eight  hundred  socks,  and  economy  in  keeping 
the  feet  well,  thus  enabling  these  swine  to  make  their  long 
journey  to  Peking.  Patience  and  economy  are  marked 
characteristics  of  the  Chinese.  At  three  o'clock  we  turned 
regretfully  from  one  of  the  great  wonders  of  the  world  and 
started  down  the  mountains  back  to  Nankou.  The  day 
was  comfortable  and  closed  with  a  brilliant  sunset. 

September  14..  We  were  off  at  seven  o'clock,  carts 
and  all.  We  started  for  the  Ming  Tombs,  and  the 
carts  for  Ch'ang  P'ing  Chou.  Along  the  way  we  passed 
through  fine  fields  of  fruits  and  grain,  with  beautiful 
mountains  on  the  left.  We  finally  entered  a  large  amphi- 
theatre, with  high  hills  almost  encircling  it.  A  rocky 
river-bed  passes  through  this  amphitheatre,  and  there  are 
ruins  of  granite  bridges  ages  old,  with  arches  still  perfect, 
grand  in  their  magnitude.  At  the  foot  of  these  hills  and 
encircling  this  amphitheatre  are  the  walled  tombs  of  thir- 
teen of  the  Ming  Emperors  of  the  last  Chinese  dynasty. 


THE  MING  TOMBS  15 

We  arrived  here  at  ten  o'clock  and  obtained  entrance 
to  the  gate  leading  into  the  walled  grounds  of  the  tomb  of 
the  Emperor  Yung-lo,  who  reigned  from  1403  to  1424. 
This  tomb  is  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  thirteen.  The 
main  building  in  this  enclosure  is  built  of  teakwood  from 
Siam.  For  five  hundred  years  this  structure  has  stood 
the  angry  storms  and  the  burning  sun,  and  looks  as  though 
it  might  brave  them  for  two  thousand  more.  This 
building  will  hold  many  thousand  people.  We  were  told 
that  if  the  Emperor  ruled  ten  years,  then  ten  thousand 
people  must  visit  the  place  on  the  anniversary  of  his  death 
and  pay  homage;  if  he  ruled  fifteen  years,  then  fifteen 
thousand  people  must  come;  always  a  thousand  for  each 
year.  Each  Emperor  builds  his  own  tomb.  We  passed 
through  this  large  building,  with  its  colossal  pillars  of  solid 
teak  trees  at  least  four  feet  in  diameter  and  forty  feet  high. 
As  we  passed  we  noted  Chinese  inscriptions  on  the  walls; 
the  large  centre-piece,  with  its  furnishings ;  the  altar,  and 
the  floors  of  polished  squares  of  marble.  From  this  build- 
ing we  entered  a  court  across  which  ran  a  broad  stone 
walk  to  another  building,  the  tomb  proper.  In  the  centre 
of  this  walk,  midway  between  the  buildings,  is  a  long, 
massive  fountain,  so  covered  with  decorated  stone  that  the 
water  is  completely  concealed.  A  crevice  in  the  masonry 
permits  the  people  to  crowd  in  their  handkerchiefs  and 
draw  out  water  with  which  they  wash  their  eyes  to  heal 
them.  Many  of  our  servants  took  advantage  of  this 
privilege.  On  either  side  of  the  stone  walk  is  a  building 
completely  covered  with  glazed  yellow  tile,  for  the  burning 
of  joss  money.  At  the  end  of  this  avenue  is  still  another 
large  building  and  the  last.  Here  we  found  an  altar  di- 
rectly in  front  of  the  door,  and  facing  the  first  entrance. 


16  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

The  gates  and  doors  opening  into  these  courts  and 
buildings  are  in  a  direct  line  with  one  another,  thus  giving 
the  Emperor's  spirit  an  unobstructed  outlook,  as  it  sits 
upon  this  altar- throne.  We  passed  up  through  broad, 
poorly  lighted  tunnel  passages,  to  the  top  of  this  building, 
which  was  builded  into  and  against  the  high  bluff.  Here 
we  found  a  large  plain  marble  tablet  with  an  immense 
granite  arch  over  it.  This  tablet  faced  the  first  entrance 
and  was  in  line  with  it. 

We  left  this  place  of  the  dead  questioning  what  life- 
thought  could  have  been  manifested  so  long  ago,  to  place 
those  man-made  memorials  with  the  enduring!  Those 
glazed  yellow  walls  and  roofs  are  still  reflecting  light  with 
a  glow. 

The  direct  road  between  Peking  and  the  Ming  Tombs 
was  builded  as  many  years  ago  as  the  tombs.  This  road 
also  proclaims  the  thought  of  endurance.  We  took  the 
broad,  stone-paved  road  for  Ch'ang  P'ing  Chou.  On  our 
route  were  more  well-preserved  bridge  abutments,  and 
arches  centuries  old.  About  three  miles  from  the  tombs 
we  passed  under  a  beautifully  carved,  massive  stone 
gateway,  or  peilo,  and  entered  the  wonderful  avenue  of 
marble  men  and  beasts.  It  was  strangely  imposing. 
First  in  line  on  each  side  were  four  priests,  six  or  eight 
times  natural  size,  cut  out  of  solid  blocks  of  granite  and 
exquisitely  carved  in  detail.  They  faced  the  centre  of 
the  avenue.  After  the  priests  were  eight  warriors  on 
either  side,  making  twenty-four  statues  in  all.  These 
warriors  were  carved  with  the  same  careful  precision. 
Then  followed  twelve  pairs  of  animals,  one  of  each  pair 
standing,  and  the  other  lying  down.  There  were  four 
horses,  four  unicorns,  four  camels,  four  elephants,  four 


Stone  Elephant  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 

Stone  Priest  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 
Stone  Warriors  on  the  Avenue  to  the  Ming  Tombs 


GIANT  MONOLITHS  17 

lions,  and  four  tigers,  in  all  twenty-four.  We  passed 
through  two  other  gateways  with  high,  erect  columns 
standing  as  if  defying  time  and  time's  destroyers.  These 
three  gateways  were  alike  aged,  but  different  in  structure; 
all  were  massive  and  beautifully  carved.  The  quality 
of  that  thought-force  which  placed  those  giant  monoliths 
centuries  ago  has  held  them  there;  and  those  bridges 
cannot  collapse  with  this  inherent  power  through  and 
through  them.  I  was  in  the  mule  litter  when  passing  from 
the  tombs  through  these  gates  and  this  avenue;  the  litter 
passed  outside  the  avenue,  thus  giving  me  a  view  of  both 
front  and  back  of  the  statues  and  also  a  picturesque 
view  of  the  procession  of  pony  and  donkey  riders,  which 
were  passing  among  these  immense  men  and  animals. 
Never  shall  I  forget  this  thrilling  dream-picture  of  my 
life! 

We  reached  Ch'ang  P'ing  Chou  at  one  o'clock.  Our 
carts  had  gone  ahead;  clean  rooms  and  a  most  delicious 
tiffin  awaited  us.  We  were  soon  off  for  Shaho;  again 
we  passed  through  fine  farming  country,  beautiful  and 
well  cultivated,  reaching  our  destination  at  seven  o'clock. 
Accommodations  here  were  not  good;  Wangs  were  old 
and  rough. 

September  75.  At  six  o'clock  we  left  for  home;  and 
it  was  " Sweet  home."  We  reached  the  Hills  without 
serious  or  harmful  accidents,  and  all  went  well  from  first 
to  last.  The  servants  were  at  all  times  kind  and  thought- 
ful; the  litter-man  managed  his  mules  and  chair  with 
tact  and  ability.  His  mules  and  donkeys  obeyed  every 
word.  The  cart-men  were  prompt  and  skilfully  man- 
aged their  mules,  carts,  and  luggage.  The  donkey-boys 
were  attentive  and  watchful  in  their  constant  stepping 


1 8  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

either  at  the  heads  or  heels  of  the  donkeys.  There  was 
no  fuss  nor  flurry;  everything  was  done  for  us  quietly 
and  on  time.  Each  thing  on  the  carts  had  its  place  as- 
signed it  before  leaving  the  Hills,  and  it  stepped  into  it 
each  time  of  starting  and  held  it  until  it  returned  to  the 
Hills.  I  put  the  bedding  into  boxes  as  it  was  to  be  used 
on  our  trip,  and  then  the  coolie  packed  it  each  time  in 
just  the  same  way. 

We  reached  home  about  noon,  September  15.  The 
old  priest,  boys,  amahs,  and  coolies  were  standing  out 
to  welcome  us.  Everything  in  the  house  and  yard  was 
in  perfect  order;  the  rooms  had  been  made  fresh  and 
clean,  and  bouquets  of  wild  flowers  made  them  bright. 
The  first  boy,  Lu,  settled  with  the  men  for  carts,  mule 
litter,  and  donkeys,  and  they  slowly  wended  their  way 
down  toward  the  city  of  Peking. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
December  16,  i8g8. 
OUR  life  in  China  is  a  dream  from  beginning  to  end. 
A  strange  dream,  too!  I  wish  that  I  could  tell  you  of  it. 
The  whole  line  of  Chinese  thought  is  foreign  to  all  other 
world-thoughts.  At  first  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  Chinese 
had  no  method  in  their  ways  of  doing,  but  I  have  since 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  they  have  great  method,  and 
that  they  cling  tenaciously  to  this  method.  There  is  a 
wonderful  book  opened  before  me;  I  try  to  study  it,  but 
I  no  sooner  get  an  idea  from  one  page  than  others  turn 
and  present  conflicting  ideas:  it  all  seems  incoherent, 
and  thought  becomes  like  a  troubled  sea. 


THE  SERVANTS'   "SQUEEZE"         19 

While  I  am  studying  the  Chinese  people,  they  are 
studying  me  with  a  quicker,  keener  perception  than  mine. 
Their  almost  unerring  memory,  their  quick  discernment, 
and  their  ready  adaptation  of  "this"  and  of  "that"  is  a 
power  to  them.  And  all  this  is  but  another  expression 
of  their  marvellous  economy.  This  economy  extends 
even  to  their  thought-processes;  nothing  is  lost;  every- 
thing is  used  to  advantage.  They  read  your  varied  ex- 
pressions of  face  and  tones  of  voice,  and  when  it  is  well 
to  understand  you  they  are  wise;  when  it  is  better  to  be 
ignorant  they  are  blank.  As  servants,  I  have  become  very 
fond  of  them.  I  cannot  write  about  the  higher  classes, 
as  I  do  not  know  them. 

The  "squeeze"  is  a  business  with  the  Chinese  —  it  is 
a  percentage,  and  I  take  it  to  be  a  part  of  their  system. 
The  brightest  and  keenest  ofttimes  get  the  most.  They 
get  a  little  more  and  a  little  more  from  you  until  you  are 
unwilling  to  stand  it  any  longer,  even  in  your  most  de- 
voted and  best  servant,  and  you  tell  him  it  is  best  for  him 
to  go;  or  he,  suspecting  that  you  are  going  to  discharge 
him,  comes  to  you  and  says,  "I  think,  Madame,  you  best 
get  another  servant;  I  go.  My  mother  sick."  He  does 
not  wish  to  go,  and  says  so ;  but  in  saying  this  to  you  he 
does  not  "lose  face"  by  being  dismissed.  If  any  servant 
says  his  father,  mother,  grandparent,  or  any  one  else  is 
sick  and  he  must  go,  it  is  best  to  accept  the  situation  and 
let  him  go.  Many  times  there  is  trouble  among  the  ser- 
vants themselves,  and  some  are  forced  to  leave. 

There  are  departments  in  the  servants'  bureau;  the 
first  cook  is  at  the  head  of  the  kitchen;  first  washerman 
at  the  head  of  the  laundry;  first  mafoo  at  the  head  of  the 
stables;    first  gardener  at  the  head  of  the  outdoor  work 


2o  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

on  the  premises.  The  house-boys  and  many  coolies  are 
under  the  direct  charge  of  the  first,  or  head,  boy.  All 
these  different  departments  report  to  this  head  boy  and, 
bring  their  monthly  accounts  to  him;  then  he  makes  out 
the  whole  bill  of  each  and  all  for  the  month. 

When  we  first  came  into  this  network  of  servants  and: 
watched  their  accounts,  we  thought  it  wise  to  make  somei 
changes.  To  illustrate,  we  saw  that  each  department! 
was  buying  its  own  coal,  a  little  at  a  time.  We  thought: 
it  better  to  buy  the  quantity  needed  all  at  once  and  all  use; 
from  one  bin.  No  objection  was  made.  It  was  not  long,' 
however,  before  complaints  came  to  us.  The  cook; 
could  not  cook  well;  the  washerman  could  not  wash! 
and  iron  well;  grates  would  not  warm  the  house  well.! 
We  asked  what  was  the  trouble,  and  found  that  each! 
must  have  his  own  coal.  "Don't  like  this  coal."  We 
understood.  The  coal  " squeeze"  was  cut  off  from  these 
departments.  They  did  as  before  and  all  was  harmo- 
nious. We  find  that  it  is  the  great  exception  where  a 
foreigner  can  buy  the  daily  necessities  for  his  home  as 
economically  as  can  the  heads  of  these  different  depart- 
ments. We  have  learned  this  from  people  of  long 
experience  in  China,  and  also  from  our  own  shorl 
experience. 

Each  morning  there  is  brought  to  me  a  statement  oi 
the  expenses  of  the  preceding  day.  Not  long  ago  I  called 
my  cook  to  me  and  said,  "Your  bills  are  too  high;  the) 
must  not  exceed  a  stated  amount."  He  told  me  man) 
things  that  made  them  high,  but  I  held  my  ground  in  8 
positive  way.  He  then  said,  "Madame  buy."  I  de-i 
tected  his  game  and  laughed  to  myself,  but  said,  "No. 
that  is  what  I  have  you  for.     It  is  your  business,  nol 


Our  Four  "Boys"  at  the  Dining-room  Entrance  from  the  Court 

Our  Second  Boy,  with  Hair  Unbraided 

Our  House  Boys  in  "Full  Dress" 


INTRICATE  SYSTEMS  21 

mine.    If  you  cannot  do  it  for  that  amount,  I  shall  try 
to  find  some  one  who  can."     After  talking  a  while  in 
Chinese,  the  boy  said  to  me,  "Cook  say,  he  try."     That 
seemed  to  be  settled,  for  we  live  just  as  well  and  bills  are 
as  I  wish  them  to  be.     This  cook  has  been  in  the  Ameri- 
can Minister's  kitchen  for  thirteen  years.     Our  servants 
are  at  their  best  when  we  have  company.     The  more 
company,  the  more  "squeeze."     They  love  money  and 
they  count  it  by  the  littles.     The  Chinese  system  of  living 
is  so  intricate  and  so  well  learned  and  adhered  to  by  all 
dasses,  that  it  "passeth  understanding."     I  have  thus 
2arly  learned  that  I  must  be  sure  of  my  position  and  then 
with  kindness,  but  firmness,  hold  it,  and  I  gain  my  point. 
The  Chinese  seem  to  pet  all  vegetation,  as  well  as 
inimals,  into  their  bidding.     The  donkeys,  mules,  and 
lorses  will  mind  their  masters  and  be  guided  without 
ines.     I  have  often  thought  that  vegetation  partakes  of 
:he  nature  of  the  people  caring  for  it.     Even  inanimate 
hings  bespeak  the  thoughtful  or  neglectful  care  bestowed 
ipon  them.     Here,  where  the  people  are  so  vastly  differ- 
:nt  from  other  people,  this  is  more  pronounced;    but  I 
vill  not  enlarge  upon  this  subject  now. 

While  you  are  young  let  all  things,  as  well  as  people, 
peak  to  you,  and  listen  to  them.  Everything  has  a 
hought  back  of  it,  and,  if  we  will,  we  can  discern  that 
hought.  Even  the  poorest,  most  insignificant  thing, 
las  its  warning,  if  nothing  more. 

In  reply  to  your  inquiry  I  think  it  well  for  you  to  visit 
^hina  for  a  year,  but  not  with  the  thought  of  making  it 
our  home.  You  are  young,  and  I  suggest  that  you 
•lace  yourself  where  many  of  the  best  opportunities  will 
•ass  your  way.    Entertain   these  opportunities  as  they 


22  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

come,  and  permit  them  to  make  your  living  stronger  and 
better.  At  your  age  do  not  forsake  your  home  land  and 
wander  into  the  unknown.  Mr.  Conger  receives  many 
letters  of  inquiry  about  opportunities  for  young  men  in 
the  Far  East,  and  he  does  not  portray  the  coming  in  glow- 
ing colors.  It  takes  an  almost  iron-clad  character  to 
withstand  the  multiplied  temptations  that  beset  the  for- 
eigner in  China.  He  is  almost  wholly  self-governed. 
Many  of  your  "whys"  will  be  answered  during  your 
one  year's  stay  in  this  far-off,  strange  land.  You  will 
receive  a  heart- welcome  from  us  all. 


[To  a  Niece] 

American  Legation,  Peking,  < 
December  if,  i8g8. 

IT  has  been  some  time  since  I  last  wrote  you,  and 
as  history  has  been  active  here,  I  am  going  to  turn  to  my 
diary  and  write  some  of  its  pages.  A  storm  has  long 
been  brewing  in  the  atmosphere  of  thought. 

September  ig.  Troubles  for  the  missionaries  in 
Hochou.  We  are  still  at  the  Western  Hills.  Mr.  Con- 
ger has  gone  to  the  city. 

September  20.  It  seems  wise  to  return  to  the  city 
and  stay  there,  as  rumors  of  unrest  are  coming  from 
different  parts  of  the  country,  and  Mr.  Conger  thinks  it 
best  to  be  at  headquarters. 

September  23.  Moved  from  the  Hills  to  Peking. 
This  day  the  Empress  Dowager  resumed  the  reins  of 
government.  There  are  rumors  that  the  Emporer  is 
ill  and  that  we  shall  soon  hear  of  his  death.  However 
stormy  the  day  may  be  within  the  unknown  Forbidden 


THE  EMPEROR  A  PRISONER        23 

City,  without  all  is  quiet  and  everything  apparently  moves 
on  in  perfect  peace. 

September  26.  There  were  six  Chinese  men  be- 
headed at  four  o'clock  this  morning.  These  men  are 
said  to  have  been  friends  of  the  Emperor.  Rumor  says 
that  the  Emperor  was  planning  to  imprison  and  kill  the 
Empress  Dowager,  that  she  heard  of  the  plot,  and  that 
now  she  jointly  rules  with  him  by  a  compelled  edict  issued 
by  himself.  The  Empress  Dowager  made  him  Emperor, 
but  in  the  hour  of  need  he  calls  her  to  his  assistance. 

September  2g.  The  Emperor  tried  to  escape.  He 
reached  the  wall,  but  was  brought  back  and  imprisoned 
on  an  island  in  the  Imperial  grounds.  Many  Chinese 
who  are  friends  of  Western  customs  and  enterprise  fled 
from  the  city,  or  hid  away.  The  trouble  seems  to  be 
that  the  Emperor  and  his  advisers  wish  to  adopt  Western 
ideas,  even  to  the  discarding  of  long-time  customs  and 
cutting  off  the  queue. 

There  is  great  delay  in  the  opening  of  the  Imperial 
University,  of  which  Dr.  Martin,  an  American  missionary, 
is  to  be  President  for  the  "West,"  and  a  Chinese  for  the 
"East."  Dr.  Martin  says  that  this  institution  will  surely 
open,  at  least  in  part,  this  coming  November.  Appa- 
rently there  is  much  trouble  and  distrust  among  those 
in  authority.  As  the  season  advances,  more  dangers 
threaten. 

September  30.  Foreigners  were  attacked  by  a  mob 
on  their  way  from  the  railroad  station.  Some  of  the 
Legation  people  and  several  missionaries  were  in  the 
trouble.  The  missionaries  could  speak  Chinese,  but  their 
protests  had  no  effect.  They  went  to  the  police  station 
and  asked  for  protection.    The  answer  was,  "We  can 


24  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

give  no  assistance  outside  of  our  charge  and  precinct." 
At  the  station  the  foreigners  took  carts  and  chairs  in  which 
to  return  and  chose  another  route,  hoping  thus  to  attract 
less  attention.  When  the  mob  spied  the  chairs,  it  ran  for 
them  with  yells,  stones,  clubs,  and  clods  of  dirt.  The 
chair-bearers  dropped  the  chairs  and  fled.  One  gentle- 
man had  two  ribs  broken;  others  had  their  clothes  torn, 
but  were  not  severely  hurt.  The  chairs  were  badly 
broken.  Word  was  brought  to  Mr.  Conger,  and  he  at 
once  sent  to  the  Yamen  and  police  station  for  protection. 
He  then  went  to  the  mission;  all  the  missionaries  had 
gotten  in  and  were  safe  in  their  compound.  We  soon 
learned  of  the  others  who  were  attacked;  none  were 
killed.  A  meeting  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps  was  called 
at  once.  The  Corps  is  having  much  difficulty  and  anx- 
iety in  knowing  just  how  far  to  go,  now  that  winter  is 
coming  on  and  Peking  will  be  frozen  in  from  the  outer 
world.  The  Ministers  wish  to  do  nothing  to  endanger 
friendly  relations  with  China. 

The  British,  Russian,  Japanese,  French,  German, 
Italian,  Austrian,  and  American  Ministers  asked  their 
Governments  for  Legation  guards  and  the  requests  were 
granted.  The  outbreaks  are  against  foreigners  in  general. 
The  mob  cries:  "Foreign  devils!"  "Kill!"  "Kill!" 
The  Yamen  sent  word  to  Mr.  Conger  that  protection 
would  be  given. 

October  i.  Only  a  little  disturbance  to-day.  There 
have  been  three  holidays,  and  this  seems  to  be  the  cause 
of  the  excited  outbreak. 

Rumors  are  afloat  —  "Emperor  poisoned."  "Em- 
peror ill,  very  ill."  "Emperor  on  throne  with  Empress 
Dowager."     "Emperor    imprisoned."     "New    Emperor 


FOREIGN  TROOPS   IN    PEKING       25 

chosen,"  etc.,  etc.  There  is  no  way  for  the  public  to 
know  the  truth  about  these  rumors;  the  work  is  done 
behind  the  scenes,  in  the  Forbidden  City. 

October  5.  English  and  other  marines  are  at  Tientsin 
with  guns.  They  boarded  the  train  to  come  to  Peking, 
but  were  ordered  to  leave  or  the  train  would  not  start; 
so  it  came  without  them.  It  is  stated  that  the  Empress 
Dowager  doubted  the  loyalty  of  fourteen  of  her  eunuchs 
and  caused  four  of  them  to  be  strangled. 

October  6.  Marines  have  not  yet  arrived.  Rumor 
says  that  the  Chinese  wish  the  train  to  bring  their  own 
troops  first,  then  foreign  troops  may  come.  The  word 
has  gone  out  to  the  common  people  that  the  Emperor 
is  a  friend  to  Western  ideas,  and  is  adopting  them  too 
rapidly,  and  that  the  Western  nations  are  coming  in  upon 
China  to  divide  her  among  them.  This  has  aroused  the 
Chinese  to  drive  all  the  foreigners  from  their  country. 
The  Empress  Dowager  is  regarded  as  a  strong  char- 
acter. 

October  7.  The  English,  Russian,  and  German 
marines  came  from  Tientsin  and  marched  up  Legation 
Street  escorted  by  Chinese  officials.  These  marines  are 
cared  for  in  the  compounds  of  their  respective  Legations. 
It  is  a  new  sight  and  a  sad  one  to  see  these  foreign  troops 
march  into  this  capital  city.  Can  we  realize  what  such 
a  condition  means  to  a  nation? 

October  8.  It  is  reported  that  several  eunuchs  were 
beheaded  through  the  orders  of  the  Empress  Dowager; 
she  doubted  their  loyalty. 

October  13.  More  rumors  about  the  Emperor.  Some 
say  he  is  dead;  others  say  he  still  lives.  Discontent  and 
confusion  are  surely  in  the  atmosphere,  but  apparent  quiet 


26  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

reigns.  It  is  thought  that  the  Empress  Dowager  is  be- 
coming frightened. 

October  15.  Word  comes  from  Washington  that  the 
Chinese  Minister  there  says  that  the  Emperor  and  Em- 
press Dowager  are  working  in  harmony.  This  is  not 
true,  as  all  here  well  know.  Another  cablegram  from 
Washington  states  that  the  American  marines  are  on  their 
way  to  China  to  act  as  Legation  guards. 

October  16.  It  is  rumored  that  more  eunuchs  were  put 
to  death  for  taking,  without  permission,  warm  clothing 
to  the  Emperor,  who  is  in  prison. 

October  18.  The  Empress  Dowager  issued  an  edict 
asking  for  foreign  doctors  to  visit  the  Emperor  to  see  if 
they  could  detect  the  cause  of  his  illness.  The  French 
Legation  doctor  was  chosen,  and  was  accompanied  by  a 
French  interpreter.  The  Empress  Dowager  was  present, 
with  others.  Nothing  serious  was  reported.  This  settles 
for  a  time  the  whereabouts  and  the  condition  of  the 
Emperor. 

October  23.  More  troubles.  Foreign  inspectors  of 
the  new  railroad  were  attacked.  Three  foreigners  were 
injured.  The  attack  was  made  by  undisciplined  Chinese 
soldiers  from  the  interior,  who  came  here  for  a  review. 
We  see  many  of  these  troops  about  us.  Some  companies 
have  the  jingal,  sl  large  old  gun  that  takes  two  men  to 
carry. 

November  5.  Lieutenant  Dutton  in  charge  of  eighteen 
American  marines,  with  Gatling  gun,  was  escorted  by 
the  Chinese  Government  through  the  streets  of  China's 
capital,  and  into  the  American  Legation  compound. 
These  are  picked  men  for  this  special  duty.  They  are 
fine-appearing  men,  every  one  of  them,  and  they  are  our 


THANKSGIVING  IN  CHINA  27 

own  people!  These  marines  occupy  four  rooms  of  the 
Minister's  house.  The  commanding  officer  occupies  one 
room  in  the  office  building.  All  are  in  close  quarters,  but 
this  is  the  only  place  of  shelter  for  the  winter. 

November  8.  Marines  are  guarding  us  night  and  day 
with  the  utmost  care.  They  perform  their  duties  with 
promptness,  and  there  is  much  about  this  obedience  to 
law  and  order  that  I  greatly  admire. 

The  thought  was  conceived  to  have  the  pictures  of 
these  eight  Legation  guards  taken  in  one  group,  so  they 
came  together  in  the  large  grounds  of  the  British  Legation. 
The  American  marines  marched  to  this  Legation  bearing 
the  Stars  and  Stripes.  None  of  the  others  had  their  flags 
with  them.  The  eight  different  guards  drew  cuts  for 
their  places  to  stand ;  the  American  guard  drew  the  centre 
and  there  the  men  stand  in  the  picture  with  their  flag  wav- 
ing! The  American  officer  said  afterwards,  "No  one 
seemed  to  object  to  the  flag,  and  I,  surely,  could  not,  for 
it  would  have  broken  the  men's  hearts  to  give  it  up." 
Think  of  it!  Was  there  ever  such  a  picture?  The  ma- 
rines of  eight  nations  peacefully  standing  side  by  side  in 
a  foreign  land,  and  —  well,  look  at  it,  and  study  it. 

The  Japanese  Minister  with  official  papers  from  his 
country  had  an  audience  to-day  with  the  Emperor  and 
Empress  Dowager. 

November  24.  Our  first  Thanksgiving  Day  in  China! 
This  national  day  is  always  observed  at  the  American 
Legation  in  Peking.  All  the  American  missionaries  and 
other  Americans  are  invited  to  spend  the  day  with  the  Min- 
ister and  his  family.  At  eleven  o'clock  about  seventy 
people  joined  in  song  praises  and  listened  to  the  patriotic 
sermon  delivered  by  Dr.  H.  H.  Lowry,  of  the  Methodist 


28  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

mission.  Although  Dr.  Lowry  has  been  in  China  for 
thirty  years  and  is  devoted  to  his  work,  he  loves  his  home 
land  and  keeps  in  touch  with  her  people  and  her  affairs. 
At  one  o'clock  fifty- six  persons  partook  of  a  Thanksgiving 
dinner  in  our  home.  The  house  decorations  on  this 
Thanksgiving  day  were  beautiful.  Chinese  potted  flow- 
ering trees,  potted  plants,  and  cut  flowers  smiled  their 
happy  welcome.  Many  large  American  flags  played  a 
conspicuous  place  in  the  decorations.  When  at  home 
we  love  our  flag,  but  when  abroad  we  almost  worship  at 
its  shrine.  Over  our  gateway  the  Stars  and  Stripes 
waved  the  day  through,  proclaiming  protection,  peace, 
and  good  will.  Good  wishes  were  wafted  across  the  great 
waters  for  loved  ones,  our  president,  and  our  country; 
praise  songs  and  patriotic  songs  were  enthusiastically 
sung,  and  loving  thoughts  were  sent  echoing  and  re- 
echoing on  their  long,  long  journey;  but  they  soon  reached 
their  destinations,  for  they  went  on  love's  wings.  Out  of 
respect  for  our  national  day  each  Legation,  as  custom- 
ary, hoisted  its  flag  and  left  it  floating  until  the  sun  pro- 
claimed, "The  day  is  ended." 

There  was  one  cloud  that  cast  its  shadow  over  this 
bright  day.  Our  marines  had  gathered  in  one  of  the 
rooms  to  join  in  our  thanksgiving;  the  services  had  not 
yet  opened  when  it  was  quietly  whispered  to  Mr.  Conger 
that  one  of  the  marines  had  the  smallpox.  He  was  in  our 
very  house,  and  as  all  the  marines  had  been  exposed,  with 
quiet  dignity  they  withdrew  from  the  services.  Mr. 
Conger  thinking  it  best  to  tell  those  with  us,  made  the 
announcement.  Almost  as  with  one  voice  the  mission- 
aries exclaimed,  "You  cannot  frighten  us  in  that  way; 
we  come  in  contact  with  smallpox  nearly  every  day  of 


THE  OLDEST  NATION  29 

our  lives."  A  doctor  visited  the  patient,  and  arrangements 
were  made  at  once  to  remove  the  patient  to  the  Nan 
T'ang  Catholic  hospital.  His  comrades  fearlessly  stood 
by  him,  tenderly  prepared  his  reclining  chair,  and  tucked 
the  covers  about  him.  They  never  ceased  their  watchful 
care  until  the  hospital  doors  received  the  afflicted  one. 

November  25.  Other  simple  quarters  were  prepared 
for  the  marines  outside,  but  connecting  with  the  Legation 
compound. 

December  16.  A  sad  day!  One  of  our  American 
marines  died  from  smallpox  at  the  Nan  T'ang  hospital. 
In  time  of  our  great  need  this  hospital  has  most  kindly 
opened  its  doors,  received,  and  with  watchful  care  attend- 
ed, the  smallpox  cases  among  our  marines. 

December  17.  To-day,  with  all  the  honors  that  kind, 
true  friends  could  give  him,  the  marine  was  buried  in  the 
little  British  cemetery  just  outside  the  city.  Already  his 
comrades  are  arranging  for  a  beautiful  marble  stone  to 
be  erected  to  his  memory.    We  all  mourn  his  loss. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
December  20,  i8g8. 
CHINA  is  the  oldest  continuous  nation  in  the  known 
world  —  is  older  than  man  has  recorded.  She  has  held 
her  gates  and  doors  barred  against  outside  influences 
and  peoples.  She  has  conceived,  developed,  and  carried 
into  practice,  within  herself,  a  thoroughly  organized  and 
almost  unchangeable  system  of  laws  and  customs  that 
for  many  centuries  have  made  her  self-sustaining  and 
independent. 


30  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Marks  of  reigns  prior  to  the  authentic  dynasties  are 
visible,  but  recorded  history  does  not  claim  them;  it 
gives  them  over  to  imaginary  gods  and  their  imaginary 
doings.  By  constant  manoeuvrings  the  foreigner  has  at 
last  succeeded  in  prying  open  a  little  the  locked  door. 
Let  us  look  through  the  door  that  stands  ajar.  What  a 
view !  What  a  revelation !  It  is  not  all  dark,  as  we  had 
supposed.  The  sun  shines  upon  a  vast  territory  that  has 
the  many  climates  of  the  globe.  The  soil  is  rich  and 
yields  a  variety  of  agricultural  products.  There  are 
wooded  lands  of  great  value;  we  find  the  earth  has  its 
valuable  treasures  in  mines  of  gold  and  other  precious 
metals.  There  are  large  beds  of  coal,  and  quarries  of 
granite,  marble,  and  jade;  perhaps  jewels  unthought  of 
are  in  China's  domain.  Although  there  are  large,  empty 
river-beds,  China's  water  supply  is  not  beggarly.  As  we 
look  and  reflect  we  detect  the  working  hand  of  a  mighty 
nation.  This  vast  empire,  ruled  by  its  crowned  Emperor, 
has  lived  right  on  in  spite  of  many  direful  upheavals  and 
overwhelming  cloud-bursts.  Methodical  accuracy  and 
adherence  to  fixed  principles  have  kept  China  purely 
Chinese.  The  nation  differs  from  other  nations  in  gen- 
eral and  in  detail.  It  is  claimed  by  some  recognized 
authorities  that  quite  authentic  events  can  be  traced  back 
to  3000  years  B.  C  A  nation  of  five  thousand  years' 
standing,  or  even  of  four  thousand,  is  no  child  nor  an 
imbecile. 

China  has  the  oldest  language  now  spoken  upon  the 
globe.  Records  show  that  this  language  is  the  mother- 
tongue  of  a  far  greater  number  of  people  than  any  other 
language  of  the  past  or  present.  It  has  undergone  few 
changes;   the  written  characters  of  China  are  over  four 


THE  WRITTEN   LANGUAGE         31 

thousand  years  old.  They  were  originally  cut  upon 
strips  of  bamboo;  these  strips  were  then  tied  in  bundles 
and  each  bundle  was  called  a  "book."  These  " books" 
were  carefully  guarded.  In  the  Ch'in  Dynasty  they  were 
burned.  Some  were  hidden  away  as  great  treasures,  but 
few  were  saved.  Later,  a  reproduction  from  memory 
was  written,  but  much  of  the  quality  and  quantity  of  the 
former  production  was  lost.  Characters  have  been  added 
to  the  language  only  when  it  was  necessary  to  express  new 
ideas  or  when  new  requirements  demanded  them.  The 
Chinese  love  and  respect  for  education,  and  perhaps  their 
great  thought  of  economy,  have  kept  them  from  dropping 
any  character,  so  the  number  as  estimated  ranges  from 
250,000  to  260,000.  Each  character  in  this  language  re- 
presents a  complete  idea,  but  its  meaning  is  modified  as 
it  takes  its  place  in  relation  to  others.  The  alphabet  is  a 
stranger  to  the  Chinese  language. 

What  can  be  learned  of  China's  early  history  portrays 
a  civilization  superior,  at  that  date,  to  that  of  most  parts 
of  the  outer  world.  Astronomy  seems  to  have  quietly, 
but  positively,  imparted  its  unfailing  light  to  mankind, 
civilized  or  uncivilized,  through  all  periods;  and  this 
unfailing  light  appears  in  the  first  glimpse  we  have  of 
China's  existence. 

To-day,  the  world  is  seeking  with  earnestness  to 
learn  about  the  hitherto  unknown  Orient.  It  will  be 
compelled  to  work  patiently,  diligently,  and  with  a  good 
spirit,  if  it  would  learn  much  of  China  and  her  people. 
The  outside  man  with  his  aggressive  force  cannot  recog- 
nize and  know  the  true  value  of  the  inner  man.  If  we 
can  win  the  heart  of  man  or  beast  we  have  won  a  victory 
for  influence  and  power.    The  fable  of  the  bar  of  iron 


31  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

lying  upon  the  cross  log  to  be  broken,  serves  to  illustrate 
this  point:  The  hammer  said,  "I  can  make  it  yield": 
but  at  its  first  fierce  blow,  it  flew  from  the  handle  and  fel 
upon  the  ground,  helpless.  The  axe  then  said  proudly 
"I  can  succeed."  It  struck  two  or  three  blows  and  its 
broken  edge  was  worthless;  it  left  scarcely  an  impression 
upon  the  bar  of  iron.  The  saw  then  stepped  forward  and 
said,  "I,  with  my  sharp  teeth,  will  soon  sever  it."  As 
it  drew  its  teeth  to  and  fro,  they  were  all  broken;  the  iron 
remained  the  same  as  before.  A  quiet,  warm  flame  said, 
"Let  me  try,  it  might  yield  for  me."  The  little  flame 
twined  itself  about  the  iron  in  a  gentle,  loving  way,  im- 
parting an  influence  that  finally  made  it  yield  and  fall 
apart.  Thus  it  is  with  aggressive  force  and  winning 
consideration. 

The  Chinese  are  skilled  as  sportsmen,  athletes, 
sleight-of-hand  performers,  and  contortionists.  They 
are  great  lovers  of  music,  theatricals,  and  other  amuse- 
ments, with  styles  peculiarly  their  own.  They  are  also 
great  lovers  of  children  and  pets.  While  they  have  always 
had  their  liquors  and  wines,  intoxication  is  seldom  known. 
They  are  an  industrious,  patient,  secretive  people,  with 
wonderful  memories  that  serve  them  well.  Their  edu- 
cation is  classical,  severe,  and  peculiarly  China's  own;  and 
it  is  the  only  road  to  high  political  recognition  and  honors. 
The  results  of  their  many  labors  are  remarkably  fine 
in  richness,  durability,  and  beauty.  Their  architecture 
is  unique  and  each  part  in  detail  has  its  meaning.  A 
special  significance  seems  to  be  woven  into  all  their 
thoughts,  whether  they  are  manifested  materially  or 
not.  The  manifested  affects  the  unmanifested ;  the 
seen  influences  the  unseen,  and  vice  versa.     They  do  not 


RELIGIOUS  OBSERVANCES  33 

recognize  the  advisabi'ity  of  changing  their  pursuits; 
tience  they  strive  to  perfect  their  work,  taking  no  account 
}f  time  or  labor.  The  sons  follow  the  callings  of  their 
ancestors.  Ofttimes  the  secret  of  producing  certain 
styles  of  art  and  other  fine  productions  is  so  carefully 
protected  that  it  is  buried  with  the  producer,  thus  enhan- 
;ing  the  value  of  these  treasures  to  fabulous  prices. 

The  religion  of  China  is  built  upon  many  theoretical 
deas,  and  is  modified  by  them.  It  is  a  combination  of 
Buddhism,  Confucianism,  Taoism,  and  other  teachings, 
rhe  rituals  or  sayings  of  a  religion  do  not  make  up  the 
real  character  of  persons  or  nations.  All  religions  have 
jome  of  the  true  and  good  in  their  teachings,  and  the 
ralue  of  these  teachings  depends  upon  the  depth  to  which 
hey  enter  the  hearts  and  minds  of  their  advocates.  In- 
lividuals  and  nations  differ  according  to  the  God  they 
ruly  worship  in  the  secret  chambers  of  their  hearts. 

When  I  first  came  to  China  I  found  that  workmen 
vould  come  and  work  on  Sunday  just  the  same  as  any 
)ther  day.  I  called  my  head  boy  and  said,  "I  do  not 
vish  these  workmen  here  pounding  to-day;  it  is  Sunday." 
3e  respectfully  replied,  "Chinaman  don't  know  names  of 
lays;  he  has  dates.  If  you  send  him  away  to-day  he  lose 
me  day's  work."  I  reflected  upon  the  situation.  From 
hat  time  they  have  commenced  their  work  for  me  on 
Vlonday,  or  such  a  day  as  to  finish  before  Sunday.  My 
deas  of  right  should  not  be  so  arbitrary  as  to  deprive 
hem  of  a  day's  wages.  Three  hundred  and  sixty-five 
lays  in  the  year  their  temples  and  shrines  are  open  for 
heir  worship.  They  enter  and  perform  their  religious 
ervices,  then  pass  on  to  the  performance  of  their  daily 
abors. 


34  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

The  Chinese  are  not  a  warlike  people;  they  wish  to  be 
let  alone  and  have  no  desire  to  intermingle  with  other 
nations.  They  wish  to  live,  to  die,  and  to  be  buried  in 
their  own  land  and  under  their  own  Dragon  flag.  I  will 
not  write  you  about  China's  treaties  with  other  nations, 
her  opium  war,  and  other  earlier  and  later  wars,  he£ 
political  career  with  its  bright  and  cloudy  days,  and  how 
she  is  treated  by  foreigners.  You  can  read  and  reread 
of  these  things  in  many  books.  But  I  will  try  to  portray 
for  you  in  my  letters  what  I  see,  and  my  impressions. 
Perhaps  you  can  read  between  the  lines  and  catch  many 
ideas  that  I  do  not  write. 


[To  a  Niece] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
January  8,  1899. 
IN  December  Mrs.  Gamewell  kindly  went  with  me  to 
visit  "The  Woman's  Winter  Refuge,"  a  home  for  aged, 
destitute  Chinese  women  without  relatives.  This  home 
is  a  Chinese  compound  with  several  houses.  There  are 
paper  windows,  stone  Wangs  covered  with  matting,  a 
few  benches  and  tables,  and  earthen  floors.  The  aged 
women  who  have  no  place  to  stay,  except  in  the  street, 
lie  close  together  on  these  Wangs  with  simplest  bedding, 
small  pillows,  and  no  sheets.  Their  much- treasured  bath- 
room is  the  crudest  of  the  crude.  They  have  the  simplest 
food,  but  no  tea.  Their  clothes  are  old,  poor,  and  patched. 
The  thought  is  simply  to  keep  them  from  freezing  and 
starving,  and  not  to  encourage  them  in  the  desire  to  be 
helped.  To  me  there  was  nothing  —  literally  nothing  — 
to  be  called  a  "home."     Those  who  know  how  the  masses 


TSI  AN. 
Dowager  Empress  of  Cliina. 


A  CHARITABLE  HOME  3S 

of  the  Chinese  live  say,  "This  is  good  and  all  right." 
I  tried  to  be  pleased. 

Lady  MacDonald,  of  the  British  Legation,  is  President 
of  the  Association  that  has  this  home  in  charge.  I,  of 
the  American  Legation,  am  Vice-president;  Mrs.  Pritt- 
wit,  of  the  German  Legation,  is  Secretary;  and 
Mrs.  Brazier,  of  the  Imperial  Customs,  is  Treasurer. 
These  officers  form  the  Finance  Committee  which  raises 
money  for  the  support  of  this  home.  Nearly  all  the 
missions  in  Peking  have  representatives  in  the  Executive 
Committee,  which  does  the  work  of  the  Association. 
What  would  the  members  of  the  Home  for  the  Aged,  in 
Des  Moines,  Iowa,  think  of  this  meagre  institution!  In 
the  United  States,  what  we  call  an  educated  thought,  has 
made  it  possible  to  bring  out  better  results  on  a  higher 
plane,  and  also  to  bring  together  people  with  stronger 
characters  in  a  Home,  but  I  doubt  if  they  are  more 
grateful. 

Oh,  this  strange,  strange  old  country!  Its  hidden 
meaning  I  cannot  find.  I  wish  that  I  could  know  what 
these  Chinese  think.  I  look  at  them  and  wonder  what 
is  under  the  calm  surface.  Sometimes  I  see  them  un- 
observed and  they  are  merry,  full  of  fun,  and  have  innate 
grace.  In  everything  our  standpoints  and  modes  of 
action  differ.  We  seem  to  be  travelling  in  different 
directions  —  growing  farther  apart.  Will  the  time  ever 
come  when  we  shall  be  of  one  mind? 

Mr.  Conger,  the  girls,  and  I  visited  a  Methodist 
Mission  Sunday  School.  First  the  Chinese  students  of 
the  mission  school  came  with  dignity  into  the  fine  large 
church.  Then  the  gate  opening  into  the  street  was  un- 
locked and  the  street  children  came  running  in.     The 


36  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

church  was  well  filled,  over  seven  hundred  being  present. 
There  are  many  classes,  of  four  and  five  pupils  each. 
Chinese  boys  and  men  taught  boys  and  men;  Chinese 
girls  and  women  taught  girls  and  women.  These  street 
people  gave  good  attention.  Our  American  workers 
took  us  from  class  to  class  through  the  church;  each 
child  and  each  adult  seemed  to  mind  his  own  business 
and  attend  closely  to  the  lesson. 

We  returned  to  our  places  in  front  of  that  mass  of 
people  where  we  observed,  as  a  whole,  what  we  had  seen 
in  detail.  The  bell  rang,  and  all  was  attention;  it  was 
announced  that  kind  friends  from  America  had  sent 
them  beautiful  cards!  They  were  advertising  cards. 
Would  that  the  ones  sending  them  could  have  seen  the 
joy  they  gave  to  these  poor  children  whose  lives  are 
almost  devoid  of  sunshine!  We  felt  richer  when  we  left 
the  church. 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
January  8,  i8gg. 

THE  kaleidoscopic  views  increase!  China  is  surely  a 
strange  land,  but  each  day  I  see  more  to  count  as  of  value 
to  me.  The  Chinese  as  a  class  do  not  have  severe, 
grieved,  anxious,  revengeful,  unresigned,  or  unhappy 
expressions  on  their  faces.  They  do  not  grieve  over 
their  misfortunes,  nor  do  they  rejoice  over  their  suc- 
cesses; both  the  ill  and  the  good  they  take  as  due  them. 

Our  house  boys  do  not  look  like  married  men  with 
families,  but  they  are.  They  are  so  quiet,  attentive, 
careful,  tasteful,  and  exact  about  their  work  that  they 
seem  more  like  well-bred  girls  than  men.    They  wear 


UNDERLYING  MEANINGS  37 

long  gowns,  sleeveless  jackets,  broad  white  cuffs,  velvet 
hats,  and  boots.  Our  amah  (maid)  is  married,  but  has 
no  children;  so  she  and  her  husband  have  adopted  two 
boys.  This  amah  looks  after  things  in  our  private  rooms, 
helps  us  dress,  and  makes  the  coolies  "  walk."  If  they 
neglect  their  duties  she  says,  "Naughty  coolies,"  calls 
them  to  time,  and  they  come  back  and  do  better.  The 
servants  anticipate  our  wishes,  and  in  their  watchfulness, 
know  them  quite  well. 

Their  religion  does  not  give  them  a  Christmas  Day, 
but  they  know  that  ours  does.  As  we  opened  our  front 
door  on  Christmas  morning  we  saw  on  either  side  of 
the  steps  a  little  evergreen  tree  in  a  pretty  painted  porce- 
lain pot.  These  trees  were  decorated  with  many  styles 
of  most  intricately  cut  paper  people,  animals,  birds,  bats, 
and  flowers  in  colors.  On  the  soil  in  the  pots  were  clay 
birds  beautifully  covered  with  feathers,  and  by  the  side 
of  one  pot  was  a  good-sized,  toy  Peking  pug  dog,  chained. 
We  appreciated  the  kind  thoughts  that  prompted  the  gifts. 
Everything,  trees  and  all  that  was  upon  them,  brought 
their  message;  and  first  boy  Lu  told  us  what  they  said. 
What  all  the  little  things  as  well  as  the  larger  ones  stand 
for  is  wonderful!  Everything  has  an  underlying  mean- 
ing; the  simplest  things  are  not  "common"  when  you 
hear  what  they  say  to  you.  Do  you  think  it  strange 
that  I  am  becoming  interested  in  these  people?  As  our 
Christmas  callers  might  not  be  able  to  understand  the 
many  good  wishes  that  these  gifts  are  forever  proclaim- 
ing, we  took  them  into  the  library  with  our  other  dear 
gifts.  I  can  never  tell  you  what  a  field  of  thought  opened 
as  I  sat  meditating  upon  that  scene  before  me.  I  wish 
that  I  could  write  of  it  accurately.     Into  that  Christmas 


38  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

room  a  new  thing  had  entered;  it  brought  a  soft  light  in 
its  simplicity  that  lighted  anew  all  that  was  there. 

On  New  Year's  Day  the  four  house  boys  came  to 
the  library  before  breakfast  and,  with  a  Chinese  cour- 
tesy from  all  at  once,  the  first  boy  said,  "  Madame,  Happy 
New  Year."  This  compliment  was  given  each  member 
of  our  family.  After  breakfast  the  other  servants, 
dressed  in  their  best,  came  into  the  large  hall  to  pay  their 
respects.  There,  was  a  host  of  them.  The  first  boy 
said,  "Madame,  servants  want  to  wish  you  well."  We 
went  to  the  hall  and  each  servant  courtesied  with  right 
hand  to  the  floor  to  each  one  of  us.  This  was  done  in  a 
quiet,  dignified  manner,  but  with  smiling  faces.  They 
went  in  a  body  to  the  office,  "to  wish  Minister  well," 
and  to  each  Secretary  and  Secretary's  home  in  the  com- 
pound, according  to  rank.  After  this  was  over,  the  first 
boy  came  again  and  again  until  all  the  servants  of  each 
Secretary  had  paid  their  respects.  Later,  the  first  boy 
came  once  more  and  said,  "Madame,  soldiers  want  to 
wish  you  well."  We  stepped  to  the  door  and  in  front 
of  us  stood  in  line  twenty  Chinese  soldiers  who  saluted 
us.  These  soldiers  have  been  guarding  the  American 
Legation  at  the  gate  of  the  compound  since  the  troubles 
in  the  Fall. 

On  the  fifth  of  January  the  members  of  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen  and  other  Chinese  high  officials  made  their 
official  New  Year's  call.  Three  days  before,  word  had 
been  sent  to  all  the  foreign  Ministers  that,  if  agreeable, 
the  members  of  the  Yamen  and  other  officials  would 
pay  their  respects  in  person.  They  came  in  three  com- 
panies of  ten  or  twelve  in  each  company.  These  men 
of  wealth  and  high  official  standing  came  in  sedan  chairs, 


Chinese  Officials  Making  Their  New  Year's  Calls 
January  i,  1905 


THE   EMPRESS   DOWAGER  39 

lined  with  fur,  and  each  carried  by  four  chair  coolies 
in  uniform.  Many  outriders  and  men  on  foot  accom- 
panied them.  They  were  not  expected  to  see  the  ladies, 
but  the  ladies  saw  them.  These  men  were  richly  dressed 
in  the  finest  of  long  sable  garments;  rich,  heavy 
silk  and  satin  undergarments;  velvet  and  fur  boots, 
sable  hats  with  official  buttons;  and  peacock  feathers. 
Their  long  strings  of  valuable  beads  were  rich  with  jade 
and  costly  jewels.  These  men  were  rather  fine  looking 
and  had  exceedingly  polite  manners.  Mr.  Conger  and 
his  Legation  staff  received  them  just  outside  the  door. 
Our  four  boys  in  uniform  stood  on  either  side  of  the 
steps,  ready  to  assist  if  needed.  These  officials  were 
escorted  to  the  drawing-room  and  shortly  to  the  dining- 
room,  where  a  table  was  spread  for  them.  They  remained 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  cards  announced 
the  coming  of  the  second  company,  the  first  company 
took  its  departure.  The  second  company  remained  until 
the  coming  of  the  third,  then  withdrew.  The  entire 
visit  was  interesting. 

There  is  another  thing  that  I  must  tell  you  about  — 
something  of  more  importance  than  these  New  Year's 
calls  —  the  visit  of  the  foreign  Ministers'  wives  to  the 
Imperial  City.  It  is  stated,  and  said  to  be  true,  that 
Her  Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager,  had  never  seen  a 
foreign  lady,  and  that  a  foreign  lady  had  never  seen  her. 
The  idea  was  conceived  that  Her  Majesty  be  asked  to 
grant  this  audience,  as  the  ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps 
wished  to  pay  their  compliments  to  Her  Majesty  on  the 
event  of  her  sixty-fourth  birthday.  After  much  delay 
and  manoeuvring  the  audience  was  granted. 

December  thirteenth  was  chosen  as  the  day  for  the 


4o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

reception.  At  ten  o'clock  a  mounted  Chinese  escort 
sent  by  the  Yamen  went  to  each  Legation  to  escort  the 
ladies  to  the  British  Legation,  as  Lady  MacDonald  was 
Dean.  Each  lady  was  in  a  sedan  chair  and  had  five  chair- 
bearers  and  two  mounted  mafoos.  We  started  from  the 
British  Legation  at  eleven  o'clock  for  the  Imperial  Win- 
ter Palace.  We  formed  quite  a  procession  with  our 
twelve  chairs  and  sixty  bearers.  The  Dean  of  the  Diplo- 
matic Corps  and  four  interpreters  joined  us  here,  in 
chairs,  with  eighteen  mafoos  and  sixty  mounted  escorts. 
Each  Chinese  was  dressed  in  his  official  rank  uniform. 
When  we  reached  the  first  gate  of  the  Winter  Palace  we 
had  to  leave  our  chairs,  bearers,  mafoos,  escorts  —  all. 
Inside  the  gate  were  seven  red-upholstered  court  chairs 
in  a  line,  with  six  eunuch  chair-bearers  each,  and  many 
escorts.  We  were  taken  to  another  gate  inside  of  which 
was  standing  a  fine  railroad  coach  presented  to  China 
by  France.  We  entered  this  car,  and  eunuchs  dressed  in 
black  pushed  and  hauled  it  to  another  stopping  place, 
where  we  were  received  by  many  officials  and  served 
with  tea.  This  railroad  passed  through  a  beautiful  city, 
clean  and  imperial.  After  a  little  rest  and  tea-sipping, 
we  were  escorted  by  high  officials  to  the  throne-room. 
Our  heavy  garments  were  taken  at  the  door,  and  we  were 
ushered  into  the  presence  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress 
Dowager.  We  stood  according  to  rank  (longest  time 
in  Peking)  and  bowed.  Our  first  interpreter  presented 
each  lady  to  Prince  Ch'ing  and  he  in  turn  presented  us 
to  Their  Majesties.  Then  Lady  MacDonald  read  a 
short  address  in  English  on  behalf  of  the  ladies.  The 
Empress  Dowager  responded  through  Prince  Ch'ing. 
Another  low  bow  on  our  part,  then  each  lady  was  es- 


B  o 


AUDIENCE  AT  COURT  41 

corted  to  the  throne  where  she  bowed  and  courtesied  to 
the  Emperor,  who  extended  his  hand  to  each.  We  then 
stepped  before  Her  Majesty  and  bowed  with  a  low  cour- 
tesy. She  offered  both  her  hands  and  we  stepped  for- 
ward to  her.  With  a  few  words  of  greeting,  Her  Majesty 
clasped  our  hands  in  hers,  and  placed  on  the  finger  of 
each  lady  a  heavy,  chased  gold  ring,  set  with  a  large 
pearl.  After  thanking  Her  Majesty,  we  backed  from  the 
throne  and  took  our  places  as  before.  Again  we  bowed 
low  and  backed  from  their  Imperial  presence. 

We  were  then  escorted  by  many  officials,  eunuchs,  and 
highly  painted  and  decorated  young  Chinese  women  to 
a  banquet-hall,  where  a  large  table  was  bountifully 
spread  with  Chinese  food.  Prince  Ch'ing,  Princess 
Ch'ing,  and  five  other  princesses  sat  at  the  table  with  us. 
Princess  Ch'ing  was  dressed  in  most  exquisite  embroid- 
eries, rich  satins  and  silks,  with  pearl  decorations.  She 
was  not  painted,  but  her  hair  was  richly  dressed.  The 
young  princesses  were  beautifully  and  carefully  gowned 
in  rich,  finely  embroidered,  bright-colored  satins.  Then- 
faces  were  painted,  their  hair  was  extended  and  elabor- 
ately ornamented  with  pearls,  tassels,  and  flowers.  Their 
long  nails  were  protected  by  jewelled  gold  finger  shields. 
Everywhere  with  us  were  Chinese  interpreters,  who  spoke 
well  both  English  and  French.  After  this  feast  we  were 
invited  into  other  rooms  and  served  with  tea.  The  table 
was  cleared  away,  and  we  were  invited  back  to  the 
banquet-hall.  To  our  surprise,  there  on  a  yellow  throne- 
chair,  sat  Her  Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager,  and  we 
gathered  about  her  as  before.  She  was  bright  and  happy 
and  her  face  glowed  with  good  will.  There  was  no 
trace  of  cruelty  to  be  seen.    In  simple  expressions  she 


42  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

welcomed  us,  and  her  actions  were  full  of  freedom  and 
warmth.  Her  Majesty  arose  and  wished  us  well.  She 
extended  both  hands  toward  each  lady,  then,  touching 
herself,  said  with  much  enthusiastic  earnestness,  "One 
family;  all  one  family."  She  presented  the  Empress, 
the  Emperor's  wife,  who  gave  her  hand  to  each.  The 
Empress,  a  beautiful  young  Chinese  lady,  wore  the  rich 
clothing  and  valuable  decorations  of  her  Imperial  rank. 

The  Empress  Dowager  bade  each  lady  good-bye,  then 
preceded  us  to  the  theatre  building.  With  our  large  escort 
we  followed,  and  saw  a  Chinese  theatre  at  its  very  best. 
Interpreters  explained  the  plays,  and  tea  was  served  fre- 
quently during  the  hour  we  were  in  the  theatre.  Again  we 
were  escorted  to  the  banquet-hall  and  seated  as  before. 
We  were  taken  then  to  other  rooms  and  the  banquet-table 
was  removed.  Once  more  we  were  permitted  to  see  Her 
Majesty;  she  was  seated  in  her  throne-chair  and  was 
very  cordial.  When  tea  was  passed  to  us  she  stepped  for- 
ward and  tipped  each  cup  of  tea  to  her  own  lips  and  took 
a  sip,  then  lifted  the  cup,  on  the  other  side,  to  our  lips  and 
said  again,  "One  family,  all  one  family."  She  then  pre- 
sented more  beautiful  gifts;    alike  to  each  lady. 

After  this  wonderful  dream-day,  so  very,  very  unreal 
to  us  all,  we  reached  home,  intoxicated  with  novelty  and 
beauty.  Everything  had  been  done  for  us!  Only  think! 
China,  after  centuries  and  centuries  of  locked  doors,  has 
now  set  them  ajar!  No  foreign  lady  ever  saw  the  Rulers 
of  China  before,  and  no  Chinese  ruler  ever  before  saw  a 
foreign  lady.  We  returned  to  the  British  Legation  and 
in  happy  mood  grouped  ourselves  for  a  picture  that  would 
fix  in  thought  a  most  unusual  day  —  a  day,  in  fact,  of 
historic  import.     December  13,  1898,  is  a  great  day  for 


ISOLATION  OF  EMPEROR  43 

China  and  for  the  world.  Think  of  this!  English  was 
the  first  language  spoken  at  Court  to  Their  Majesties 
by  foreign  women.  English,  modified,  is  the  commercial 
language  of  China,  and  in  its  purity  has  been  carried  to 
the  very  throne  of  China  by  a  woman. 

My  first  boy  tried  to  impress  upon  me  what  a  great 
thing  had  come  into  my  life.  He  said,  "  Madame,  much 
great  thing  come  to  you.  Emperor  come  down  from 
heaven.  No  foreign  lady  see  him,  few  Chinese  men. 
He  came  down  from  heaven.  You  very  blessed.  Cook 
say,  no  one  see  Emperor.  He  great.  He  come  down  from 
heaven."  He  was  unusually  earnest;  evidently  he  wished 
to  impress  upon  my  mind  the  great  honor  and  blessing 
we  had  received.  The  Emperor  is  a  sacred  personage  to 
the  Chinese.  He  is  not  to  be  seen  by  his  subjects,  nor  is 
he  to  see  them.  He  is  screened  and  protected  as  he  goes 
to  the  temples  to  worship,  and  as  he  goes  to  and  from  the 
Summer  Palace,  or  the  Imperial  Tombs.  He  learns  noth- 
ing of  his  country  or  countrymen  by  observation  or  con- 
tact. How  can  this  great  Empire  grow  in  strength  and 
glory  when  her  rulers  are  in  such  bondage  ? 

Everything  about  China  is  the  extreme  of  all  that  we 
can  dream.  You  wish  something,  and  you  say  to  your 
first  boy,  "Can  you  get?"  He  will  say,  "I  see."  He 
does  see,  and  it  comes.  Beauties  come  out  of  the  most 
impossible  places.  These  Chinese  just  quietly  manifest 
things.  They  are  never  in  a  hurry,  never  excited.  They 
count  their  labor  as  little,  and  if  you  do  not  like  what 
they  have,  it  is  "  All  samee;   I  take  back." 

The  winters  are  delightful  in  North  China.  The  ther- 
mometer rarely  registers  below  zero.  There  is  little 
snow  and  no  rain  during  these  seasons.     Sometimes  we 


44  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

see  a  yellowed  horizon.  A  colored  spectre,  as  a  rain 
cloud,  rises  and  comes  nearer  and  nearer  and  the  servants 
hasten  to  close  every  door  and  window.  It  is  a  dust  storm! 
These  storms  at  times  rage  three  days  and  we  are  com- 
pelled to  bar  our  doors  against  their  ill-temper.  But 
such  storms  are  infrequent  visitors,  and  we  are  on  our 
ponies  nearly  every  day,  summer  and  winter,  and  with 
comfort  take  two  or  three  hours'  ride.  When  riding 
during  the  autumn  and  winter  we  see  large  numbers  of 
camels  carrying  coal  to  the  city  from  mines  twelve  and 
fifteen  miles  distant.  One  coolie  has  a  train  of  several 
camels  fastened  tandem  by  means  of  a  rope.  The  last 
camel  in  each  train  wears  a  large  bell  and  the  constant 
striking  of  these  bells  makes  a  concert  of  noise  devoid  of 
harmony.  We  are  told  that  there  are  five  thousand  of 
these  camels  coming  every  day  into  Peking.  It  is  not 
hard  for  us  to  believe  this  statement,  for  we  see  an  almost 
endless  caravan  of  these  methodically  stepping,  slowly 
moving,  ugly-looking  men  and  beasts.  These  thousands 
of  camels  spend  the  summer  on  the  plains  of  Mongolia. 
They  leave  Peking  with  shaggy,  dirty  coats,  limp  humps, 
and  skeleton-like  bodies;  and  return  to  duty  in  the  autumn 
with  fresh,  beautiful  coats,  upright  humps,  and  plump 
bodies.  The  camel  drivers  are  almost  as  mute  as  the 
beasts  they  drive.  Study  this  picture,  there  is  a  lesson  in 
it;  each  station  in  life  has  its  demands;  these  demands 
vary  as  do  the  views  from  the  base  to  the  top  of  a  high 
mountain. 


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THE   CHINESE  CHARACTER  45 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
February  1,  i8gg. 

THE  following  is  found  in  the  ancient  books  of  China 
and  is  handed  down  to  the  present  time,  believed  and 
sanctioned:  "The  powers  that  be  are  ordained  of 
Heaven."  Believing  in  the  power  of  bad  as  well  as  of 
good,  the  Chinese  accept  the  bad  or  the  good  that  comes 
to  them.  They  do  not  believe  in  change,  and  this  idea, 
unmodified,  has  come  down  to  the  people  of  to-day.  I 
am  told  that  history  records  few  attempts  to  modify  the 
Chinese  form  of  government  —  a  government  that  has 
reached  over  a  far  greater  period  of  time  than  any  other 
system  of  authority  on  earth.  Surely  there  must  be  virtue 
in  a  cement  that  will  bind  together  a  great  people  unbroken 
through  many  centuries.  Those  who  know  the  Chinese 
best  tell  me  that  they  are  cautious,  slow,  and  conservative ; 
that  they  have  a  sturdy  independence  of  character  and  a 
strongly  developed  love  for  their  rights.  They  rarely 
adopt  the  methods  of  other  people,  but  reach  the  same  end 
in  their  own  way.  I  have  already  seen  much  in  the  Chi- 
nese character  to  respect,  and  much  that,  to  me,  is  unat- 
tractive and  bitter;  but  I  try  constantly  to  keep  in  mind 
the  fact  that  there  are  bitter  herbs  and  poisons  to  be  found 
in  other  lands. 

As  I  am  here  and  watch,  I  do  not  wonder  that  the 
Chinese  hate  the  foreigner.  The  foreigner  is  frequently 
severe  and  exacting  in  this  Empire  which  is  not  his  own. 
He  often  treats  the  Chinese  as  though  they  were  dogs  and 
had  no  rights  whatever  —  no  wonder  that  they  growl  and 
sometimes  bite.    Would  that  more  of  the  Christ-spirit 


46  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

could  be  shown  them  by  these  people  coming  from  Chris- 
tian lands!  Neither  the  " young  West,"  nor  "young 
America,"  has  all  in  its  store  of  knowledge.  Might  it 
not  be  well  to  watch  and  search?  Even  in  the  "dark" 
nations  unknown  lights  might  be  discovered. 

I  often  liken  the  intricate  system  of  this  great  empire 
to  a  clock;  it  has  its  wheels,  great  and  small,  with  their 
many  cogs,  each  doing  its  own  part.  Foreigners,  ignorant 
of  its  mechanism,  come  along  and  say,  "I  don't  like  that 
cog;  it  is  objectionable,  and  I'll  remove  it."  Thus 
they  break  into  a  system  that  through  the  centuries  has 
been  worked  out,  and  that  gives  to  each  wheel  its  neces- 
sary, decisive  work.  In  this  breaking  of  cogs,  the  whole 
system  is  disarranged,  and  no  better  one  is  put  in  its  place. 

The  will  of  the  Emperor  is  the  final  command  and  the 
highest  officials  must  obey.  They  often  struggle  with 
their  many  duties  early  and  late,  with  scarcely  time  to  eat 
or  sleep.  These  officials  are  said  to  be  the  hardest- worked 
people  in  the  Empire.  All  classes  seem  to  be  slowly,  but 
diligently,  industrious.  As  I  am  with  these  Chinese  and 
study  them,  I  feel  that  there  is  a  deep,  reserved  force  in 
their  character  that  will  some  day  show  itself  in  unknown 
directions. 

The  worship  of  the  Chinese  ancestors,  so  far  as  dis- 
covered, is  as  old  as  the  race,  and  is  the  most  deeply  rooted 
of  all  their  religious  forms.  The  Chinese  make  pilgrim- 
ages to  their  tombs  twice  a  year  to  petition  the  gods  to 
care  for  and  protect  the  departed  souls  of  their  ancestors. 
This  worship  has  its  virtuous  and  elevating  effect  upon 
these  people.  They  show  their  parents  the  greatest  re- 
spect and  consideration  while  with  them,  and  visit  their 
tombs  with  a  living  thought. 


LOVE  FOR  CHILDREN  47 

If  no  children  come  to  a  family,  they  buy  or  adopt  a 
child  that  they  may  have  one  or  more  sons  or  grandsons 
to  visit  their  graves.  Our  second  amah  came  to  me  a  few 
days  ago  and  said,  "  First  amah  have  little  boy  baby."  I 
asked  if  I  might  see  him.  It  was  granted  me.  A  strange 
man  was  holding  a  small,  bright-looking  child  inside  his 
coat  against  his  bare  body.  I  said,  "Amah,  your  baby? 
Where  did  you  get  it?"  "I  have  no  baby,"  she  replied; 
"this  man  have  many,  can't  feed  'em.  I  buy  baby.  My 
sister  has  small  baby  and  keep  my  baby."  The  baby 
went  to  the  sister  that  day. 

An  amah  was  here  with  one  of  my  guests  from  Shang- 
hai. This  amah  approached  her  mistress  asking  if  she 
could  go  out  into  the  city  and  try  to  adopt  or  buy  a  little 
girl-child  as  her  own.  She  explained,  "I  once  married, 
unhappy,  had  no  child.  Servant  tell  me  of  little  girl, 
I  get  her  cheap.  I  take  her  home  my  muder,  and  we 
raise  her  and  marry  her  nice  man,  and  I  have  home  old 
age."  She  added  in  a  most  forlorn  tone,  "I  sorry,  I  no 
child."  If  they  have  no  children  they  are  poor  indeed, 
for  they  have  no  one  to  mourn  over  them  nor  to  worship 
at  their  graves.  Love  for  children  is  one  of  their  greatest 
passions  and  it  seems  to  be  a  redeeming  one. 

The  amah  went  to  see  the  child,  but  came  back  -without 
it,  as  the  price  was  too  high.  She  seemed  to  be  a  good 
woman,  so  I  said,  "I  will  go  to  a  mission  and  see  what  I 
can  do  for  you  there."  I  had  in  mind  the  many  hundreds 
of  street  children  that  I  saw  at  their  Sunday  school.  She 
said,  "Oh,  thankee,  missie,  I  very  glad.  I  take  girl,  pay 
school,  and  she  grow  nice  girl.  I  get  nice  husband  her, 
and  they  go  my  house,  and  they  give  me  chow  when  I  old. 
I  no  child.    No  one  give  me  chow.     I  give  muder  chow. 


48  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Muder  die;  no  one  give  me  chow.  I  old;  no  one  mourn 
my  grave." 

I  went  to  the  mission  and  stated  my  case  and  two  of 
these  good  people  listened  patiently  to  my  story.  They 
have  been  in  China  for  over  thirty  years  and  know  the 
language  and  the  people.  They  quietly  said,  "People  here 
have  to  be  very  careful  in  giving  what  they  call  assistance. 
If  we  should  in  any  way  render  assistance  to  this  woman 
and  any  misfortune  should  befall  any  of  them,  they  might 
come  back  on  us,  or  on  you,  or  any  one  who  interested 
himself  in  this  woman  or  child,  and  cause  a  great  deal  of 
trouble.  It  is  better  to  let  them  do  their  own  work  in  their 
own  way,  unless  you  know  just  what  you  are  doing,  and 
for  whom.  This  woman  may  be  all  right,  but  she  may  be 
buying  this  girl  to  make  her  a  slave.  She  may  be  filling 
up  the  dance  houses,  or  she  may  wish  the  child  for  a 
worse  fate.  She  may  be  buying  many  little  girls  with  this 
same  story.  She  says  that  her  husband  is  a  bad  man. 
If  she  has  a  husband,  any  child  that  she  takes  as  hers, 
he  may  have  if  he  chooses,  and  have  more  supervision 
over  the  child  than  she  could  hold." 

I  returned  home  wiser,  and  these  words  stared  me  in 
the  face  with  a  piercing,  living  glow:  "Mind  your  own 
business  and  let  others  mind  theirs."  Our  ideas  of  help 
to  others  are  often  slavish,  and  do  not  lead  up  to  liberty. 
Let  us  watch  that  we  may  do  the  right  thing  in  the  right 
way  for  individuals  and  for  humanity. 


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FOREIGNERS   IN   CHINA  49 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
February  2,  i8gg. 

THERE  are  educated  Americans  here  who  have  spent 
many  years  striving  to  learn  of  the  inner  lives  of  the  Chi- 
nese, to  get  near  to  them,  and  to  teach  them  a  "broader  " 
thought.  China  is  little  by  little  opening  her  doors  to 
the  world,  but  she  does  this  reluctantly.  Foreigners 
cannot  imagine  how  completely  she  has  lived  to  herself, 
until  they  come  among  her  people.  While  other  nations 
have  mingled,  modifying  one  another,  China  has  walled 
herself  in,  not  allowing  one  ray  of  thought  to  enter  or  go 
out,  for  century  after  century.  Her  ideas  of  right  and 
wrong  are  foreign  to  ours.  I  am  much  interested  in  talk- 
ing with  those  who  have  been  here  longest  and  who  have 
mingled  most  with  this  strange  people. 

In  China  the  natives  are  so  purely  Chinese  that  the 
foreigners  stand  out  as  distinctly  foreign.  In  Peking  the 
Austrian,  Belgian,  Dutch,  English,  French,  German, 
Italian,  Japanese,  Russian,  Spanish,  and  American,  with 
their  marked  individual  characteristics,  form  an  inter- 
esting color  picture;  but  the  positive,  individual  colors 
shade  off  into  a  blending  that  is  quite  harmonious  as  a 
whole.  How  do  these  foreigners  appear  to  the  Chinese? 
Many  times  I  feel  ashamed  that  we  do  not  appear  more 
like  civilized  people.  Our  ignorance  and  extreme  pre- 
judices make  us  appear  in  a  bad  and  untrue  light ;  we  are 
really  better  than  we  seem.  If  we  strive  with  patience 
and  good  will  to  understand  Chinese  life  and  its  expres- 
sion, many  of  our  prejudices  will  pass  away,  and  we  shall 
be  able  to  see  more  clearly. 


5o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Except  on  some  special  days,  the  many  temples  are 
open  day  and  night.  The  priests  hold  all  the  joint 
service;  the  worship  of  the  masses  is  individual.  The 
form  is  simple,  and  occupies  only  a  few  minutes.  I  have 
often  seen  these  people  at  worship.  In  the  temples 
there  are  in  front  of  the  Buddha  five  receptacles;  in  the 
centre  there  is  an  incense-burner  and  at  either  side  a 
candle-stick  and  a  vase.  The  worshipper  enters  and  pur- 
chases from  the  priest  sticks  of  burning  incense,  which 
he  places  in  the  incense-burner.  There  is  a  mat  in  front 
of  the  altar,  and  upon  this  mat  the  worshipper  kneels  and 
prostrates  himself  three  times  before  the  idol.  A  drum 
is  sounded  during  this  ceremony.  The  rites  having  been 
performed,  the  worshipper  goes  about  his  work.  Some- 
times worshippers  hold  these  sticks  of  burning  incense 
while  prostrating  themselves,  and  then  afterwards  place 
them  in  the  burner.  What  these  temples  with  their 
different  gods  and  the  ancestral  worship  mean  to  these 
devout  people,  or  say  to  them,  I  have  not  yet  learned. 
What  is  in  their  ancestral  halls,  or  what  their  ceremony 
is  on  their  worship  days,  I  will  not  try  to  write  you,  for  I 
know  nothing  of  them  save  what  I  have  learned  from 
books:  you,  too,  can  go  to  them  for  information,  so  I  will 
write  only  of  what  comes  under  my  own  observation. 

The  honor  of  woman  is  her  child-bearing,  and  the 
more  boys  the  sweater  the  honor.  The  better  classes  of 
Chinese  women  never  see  foreign  men  and  seldom  meet 
men  of  their  own  people.  I  am  told  that  they  do  not 
labor;  a  noble  life-work  is  done  if  they  bear  even  one  or 
two  children.  I  wish  that  I  could  see  these  ladies  in 
their  home  life.  If  I  ever  do,  I  will  let  you  rejoice  with 
me.     As  men  perform  the  rites  at  the  graves,  it  is  neces- 


CONCERNING  THE   QUEUE  51 

sary  for  every  man  and  woman  to  have  a  son.  either  their 
own  or  adopted.  Of  their  extreme  superstitions  I  have 
as  yet  had  little  opportunity  to  learn.  The  strange 
wonders  that  I  meet  in  this  strange  land  are  bewildering 
and  far  beyond  my  comprehension. 

You  will  be  interested  in  hearing  about  the  queue. 
The  hair  of  the  Oriental  is  always  straight  and  jet  black. 
The  beard  is  not  allowed  to  grow  until  honors  and  age 
permit.  The  queue  is  a  symbol  of  Chinese  manhood. 
In  infancy  and  childhood  the  head  is  either  clean-shaven, 
or  patches  of  hair  are  left  as  fancy  may  dictate;  this  hair 
is  braided  into  little  queues.  When  the  boy  reaches  the 
age  of  thirteen  or  fourteen,  the  queue,  the  proper  badge 
of  manhood,  is  permitted  to  grow.  The  queue  is  not  orig- 
inally Chinese;  it  was  introduced  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  years  ago  by  the  Manchus.  The  first  Manchu 
Emperor  of  China  commanded  all  of  his  subjects  to 
shave  their  heads  and  adopt  the  queue.  This  created 
intense  excitement,  as  the  Chinese  thought  it  signified 
slavery  or  degradation.  The  Emperor  wisely  left  this 
decree  untouched  and  shrewdlv  issued  another.  The 
second  decree  commanded  that  all  persons  convicted  of 
crime  should  cut  off  the  queue  and  let  the  hair  grow.  The 
officers  were  to  see  that  this  edict  was  obeyed.  The 
Emperor  also  issued  a  decree  that  the  badge  of  mourning 
for  the  death  of  a  parent  should  be  unshaven  head  and 
uncombed  queue  for  one  hundred  days.  The  queue  has 
become  almost  a  superstitious  reverence  among  the 
Chinese.  It  is  their  great  pride.  Some  heads  of  hair 
are  beautiful,  heavy  and  long;  others  are  made  up  of 
switches  of  false  hair,  or  silk.  There  is  an  etiquette  of 
the  queue.     It  must  be  braided  in  special  style,  and  tied 


Si  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

with  a  black  cord  and  tassels;  the  black  cord  is  removed 
and  a  white  cord  takes  its  place  in  mourning.  They  coil 
the  queue  about  the  head  to  protect  it,  or  for  comfort; 
but  on  meeting  a  friend,  they  uncoil  it  and  leave  it  hang- 
ing down  their  back  before  recognizing  him.  Under 
no  circumstances  is  it  proper  for  a  servant  to  appear  in  the 
presence  of  his  master  or  mistress  with  his  queue  coiled. 
Not  long  ago  our  first  boy,  Lu,  whom  we  brought  with  us 
from  Shanghai,  came  to  me  smiling,  but  with  tears  in  his 
eyes,  and  said,  "I  got  letter  from  home,  wife  die."  He 
picked  up  his  queue  and  said,  "See,  I  wear  white  cord." 
He  had  a  white  cord  braided  in  his  queue,  and  wore  it 
until  after  their  New  Year,  then  it  disappeared. 

I  must  tell  you  more  about  this  boy.  Perhaps  three 
months  afterward  he  came  to  me  and  said,  "My  boy 
here;  Madame  want  see  him?"  Of  course  I  did.  He 
brought  a  young  man  almost  as  tall  as  himself. 

I  said,  "  Lu,  this  is  not  your  own  boy." 

He  said,  "Yes,  Madame,  my  own  boy." 

I  asked  if  he  should  like  to  have  their  pictures  taken 
together. 

He  was  much  pleased  and  said,  "I  fix  him."  They 
left,  and  in  a  short  time  Lu  returned  and  said,  "Madame, 
see  my  second  wife?" 

In  surprise,  I  said,  "You  married?  When,  and 
where ? "  I  knew  he  had  not  lost  one  day;  he  was  always 
at  his  post. 

He  replied,  "Chinese  different  from  foreigners. 
Mudder  choose  wife;  boy  bring  wife  me.  She  second 
wife  now."  He  brought  her  to  the  hall,  not  into  my 
sitting-room,  as  he  did  his  boy,  and  said,  "Madame,  see 
second  wife?    She  out  here." 


Lu  and  His  Family 


PEKING  OBSERVATORY  53 

I  said,  "  Bring  her  in." 

He  replied  respectfully,  "  Madame  better  see  her 
out  here."  ^  I  did.  She  gracefully  courtesied  and  bowed 
in  the  Chinese  manner.  When  we  went  outdoors  to 
have  the  pictures  taken,  she  leaned  upon  the  son's  arm 
because  her  little  feet  would  not  let  her  walk  alone. 

When  we  were  outdoors  I  looked  at  Lu  and  said, 
"Lu,  that  cannot  be  your  own  son." 

He  said,  "Yes,  Madame,  my  own  proper  son.  His 
mother  die.  I  marry  young.  Got  this  boy  when  twenty- 
one.  He  is  eighteen  now;  I  thirty-nine.  He  my  proper 
son." 

We  believed  it  later,  for  his  son  afterward  became 
our  third  boy  and  he  was  his  father  over  and  over  in 
looks  and  actions.  He  was  very  clever,  and  his  father  ex- 
tremely so. 

First  boy,  Lu,  said,  "A  little  while  I  send  second  wife 
back  mudder;  she  old."  Later  our  amah  said,  "Lu's 
wife  'Sing-song'  girl.  No  little  feet;  put  on  little  feet. 
Lu  pay  much  money.  Lu  buy  her."  We  kept  Lu 
little  more  than  a  year. 

We  have  another  first  boy,  Wang,  and  we  like  him 
very  much.  He  is  quiet  and  manly  and  keeps  all  quiet 
about  him. 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 

March  12,  i8gg. 

IN  answer  to  your  letter  I  am  going  to  talk  to  you 

about  one  of  the  rich  treasures  which  I  have  found;  the 

Peking  Observatory!    This  Observatory  is  situated  on 

the  top  of  a  spacious  masonry,  towering  many  feet  above 


54  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

the  wall  of  the  Tartar  City,  and  is  built  against  this  wall  to 
the  east.  An  open  brick  stairway  is  the  mode  of  ascent. 
The  Observatory  is  most  surprisingly  wonderful.  Many 
of  the  astronomical  instruments  are  over  three  hundred 
years  old,  and  they  are  in  a  state  of  almost  perfect  pres- 
ervation. They  are  always  exposed  to  the  changes  of 
the  seasons,  always  in  the  open,  yet  they  are  without 
corrosion.  These  massive  instruments  are  so  nicely 
poised  upon  their  axes,  or  pivots,  that  I  can  move  them 
with  comparative  ease.  Their  mountings  are  wonder- 
ful in  design,  execution,  and  material,  and  are  strictly 
Chinese;  many  of  them  in  the  form  of  dragons.  The 
bronze  material  in  these  instruments  is  heavily  mixed 
with  gold  and  is  so  unyielding  that  none  of  the  fine,  com- 
plicated, mathematical  dial  plates  are  effaced,  or  even 
dimmed.  Each  line  seems  to  stand  out  as  boldly  and 
accurately  as  if  in  the  first  year  of  its  long  existence.  The 
art  and  knowledge  of  this  perfect  work  has  been  lost. 
There  is  no  telescope  among  these  instruments. 

A  temple  is  at  the  foot  of  this  tower  and  here  there  are 
two  of  the  oldest  and  finest  of  all  the  instruments.  They 
are  said  to  date  back  more  than  five  hundred  years.  In 
the  temple  is  a  "water  clock,"  which  is  simply  a  series  of 
receptacles  through  which  the  water  oozes  with  accu- 
rate pressure  and  time.  There  are  sun-dials  everywhere, 
and  this  historic  spot  would  not  be  complete  without  them. 
I  often  visit  this  Observatory,  and  my  interest  grows  more 
intense  at  each  visit.  My  thought  reaches  out  to  know 
more,  and  to  understand  what  these  voiceless  messengers 
would  say  to  me.  I  catch  a  little  whispering  each  time, 
and  go  away  rejoicing. 

Every  age  seems  to  have  reverently  recognized  the 


Water  Clock 
Astronomical  Observatory,  Peking 


EXAMINATION   HALLS  55 

heavens  as  a  watchful,  unchangeable,  never-failing  friend, 
always  true  to  man  physically  and  spiritually.  It  was 
early  learned  that  through  these  myriads  of  bright  lights, 
simple  and  complex  problems  could  be  accurately  solved. 
Through  this  avenue  the  earth  opens  up  its  hidden  secrets; 
the  ocean  shows  its  might;  in  fact  all  nature  sings  in  one 
grand  chorus  that  echoes  and  re-echoes  with  an  increasing 
harmony  through  every  part  of  God's  great  universe. 
The  Life,  Truth,  Love  that  never  fails  is  so  indelibly 
stamped  in  the  brilliant  heavens  that  all  mankind  has 
recognized  it,  looked  up  to  it,  and  humbly  clasped  its 
proffered,  helping  hand.  Through  the  star-lit  heavens 
the  year  has  been  determined,  the  seasons  named,  and 
months  numbered.  All  that  this  vast  universe  has  said, 
is  saying,  and  will  continue  to  say  to  mankind,  will  never 
be  known.  The  vibrations  of  the  sunbeams  tone  and  in- 
tensify the  rich  and  varied  colorings  of  nature  in  all  their 
grandeur. 

Every  time  we  visit  the  Observatory,  with  its  college 
of  hidden  learning,  we  leave  it  with  reluctance. 

The  Examination  Halls  are  near  the  Observatory. 
Many  thousands  of  Chinese  men  of  learning  assemble  here 
once  in  two  or  three  years  to  test  their  knowledge.  The 
second  and  third  degrees  of  scholarly  education  are  here 
granted.  These  halls  are  long,  shed-like  buildings  about 
four  feet  wide  and  two  or  three  hundred  feet  long,  all  fa- 
cing the  south.  They  have  an  open  front  and  a  passage- 
way of  four  feet  between  them.  The  roof  extends  so  as 
to  keep  out  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun.  These  halls  are 
divided  into  compartments  about  three  and  one-half  feet 
square  and  are  furnished  with  a  board  seat  and  a  board 
in  front  of  the  occupant  upon  which  to  write.     The 


56  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

scholar  who  is  being  examined  must  remain  here  for  three 
days  without  going  out.  His  necessities  are  brought  to 
him.  After  three  days  he  can  go  out  for  one  day  and  then 
return  for  another  three  days.  The  ninth  day  finishes 
the  examination.  They  eat,  sleep,  and  write  in  these  cells. 
Some  come  time  after  time  for  the  degrees  here  offered. 
Some  ambitious  aged  men  die  in  these  narrow,  barren 
compartments,  working  for  their  honors.  For  the  last 
two  degrees  they  come  to  Peking  from  all  parts  of  the 
Empire;  the  first  degree  is  taken  in  other  Provinces. 
There  are  rooms,  or  cells,  to  accommodate  sixteen  thou- 
sand applicants,  but  at  this  time  only  about  eight  thousand 
occupy  them.  Those  who  pass  this  examination  receive 
the  highest  and  last  degrees  given  these  toiling,  ambitious 
scholars.  I  intentionally  use  the  word  " scholar,"  instead 
of  "student,"  because  these  men  merit  the  distinction  of 
the  term. 

The  subject  they  are  to  be  examined  upon  is  given 
them  after  they  enter  their  cell  and  they  have  no  books. 
The  examination  consists  of  a  reproduction  of  the  classics 
from  memory,  and  the  writing  of  essays.  These  examina- 
tions are  rigid  and  are  the  stepping-stones  to  the  high 
official  places  in  the  Government.  Great  memory  is  a 
strong  and  most  helpful  characteristic  of  the  Chinese; 
they  have  been  schooled  to  it  during  the  long  existence  of 
their  nation.  Earl,  or  Viceroy,  Li  Hung  Chang  told  us 
with  pride  that  he  took  his  examinations  in  these  halls  fifty 
years  ago.  His  son  said,  "I  also  took  the  examination, 
but  did  not  win  the  degree.  In  China  it  is  no  disgrace 
to  have  failed;  it  is  an  honor  to  have  tried."  Viceroy 
Li  Hung  Chang  speaks  no  English;  his  son  speaks  it 
fluently.    As  I  look  at  these  Examination  Halls,  sym- 


THE  YELLOW  TEMPLE  57 

pathetic  feelings  mingled  with  sad  admiration  go  out  to 
these  scholars  who  come  to  them.  This  is  only  another 
way  of  working,  sacrificing,  and  suffering  for  glory. 

For  several  days  we  have  been  having  delightful  guests, 
and  we  planned  a  trip  to  the  Yellow  Temple  and  the  Bell 
Temple  about  six  miles  distant.  Twelve  of  us  went  on 
ponies  and  in  chairs ;  the  riders  had  their  frolics  in  speed- 
ing their  horses,  then  in  the  shade  of  some  tree  they  waited 
for  the  coming  of  the  chairs,  the  bearers  of  which  were 
speeding  on  in  the  spirit  of  the  occasion.  There  were 
five  distinct  nationalities  represented  in  our  party,  but 
Joy's  spirit  is  so  universal  that  we  were  one  nationality 
that  day. 

We  first  visited  the  Yellow  Temple.  This  temple  is 
very  old,  and  its  pages  of  history  have  been  lined  and  inter- 
lined. Some  of  our  party  would  tarry  and  listen  for 
answers  to  their  questions,  others  would  look,  pass  on  and 
out  and  feel  no  inspiration  in  this  dense  atmosphere. 
In  some  shady  spot  they  would  await  the  coming  of  the 
loiterers.  One  of  the  finest  and  most  beautiful  treasures 
of  this  temple  is  the  large  marble  tower  built  in  memory 
of  Buddha.  It  is  deeply  carved  in  bas-relief  and  the 
carvings  portray  Buddha's  existence  from  his  first  con- 
ception in  mortal  life  on  through  the  many  phases  of 
mortal  living,  and  still  on  into  the  imaginary  beyond. 
This  tower  is  a  stationary  panorama,  and  time  is  the 
propelling  power  urging  the  intent  observer  to  move  on. 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  reached  the  Bell  Temple.  Each 
rider  had  his  accompanying  mafoo,  who  took  his  horse 
in  charge.  The  mafoos  walked  the  horses  quietly  for 
about  thirty  minutes,  then  removed  saddles  and  bridles, 
watered  the  horses,  stabled  them,  and  fed  them.    The 


58  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

chair  coolies  dropped  down  in  the  shade  for  a  time,  then 
washed,  and  ate  their  tiffin.  The  guests  passed  on  into 
the  temple  proper.  Our  servants  had  preceded  us  with 
tiffin  necessities.  We  were  escorted  into  rooms,  where  our 
very  own  home  wash-bowls,  pitchers,  and  towels  awaited 
us.  Tiffin  was  announced,  and  there  in  a  large  room  was 
a  table  with  twelve  plates  and  a  real  home  hot-tiffin,  with 
its  courses.  Upon  the  table  were  pickles,  sweets,  and 
lovely  flowers.  My  servants  had  done  it  themselves! 
They  knew  what  was  to  be  done,  and  I  let  them  do  it  in 
their  own  way.  The  guests  exclaimed,  "Marvellous! 
Marvellous!"  It  was  wonderful,  for  everything  had  to  be 
brought  from  home  by  the  coolies,  even  ice  and  distilled 
water. 

After  our  refreshments  we  were  shown  from  building 
to  building  with  our  longing  thoughts  centred  on  the 
Great  Bell.  Where  was  it?  None  too  soon  were  we  in 
the  august  presence  of  that  historic,  talking  thing.  With 
intense  wonder  the  world  talks  back  to  it.  This  bell  was 
cast  about  five  centuries  ago,  and  weighs  fifty- three  and 
a  half  tons.  It  is  second  in  magnitude,  but  is  the  largest 
hanging  bell  in  the  world.  It  is  completely  covered,  in- 
side and  out,  with  Chinese  characters,  extracts  from  the 
Buddhist  canon.  We  passed  under  this  wonderful  bell 
dome;  we  looked  at  it;  we  felt  of  it.  It  was  really  there, 
hanging  from  that  immense  frame  of  mighty  timbers. 
The  keeper  swung  the  end  of  a  large  hanging  timber 
against  this  monster  bell,  and  in  tones  the  sweetest,  most 
melodious  and  resounding,  it  sang  us  a  song  of  days  gone 
by.  It  struck  eternity's  chord,  and  we  all  loved  it.  The 
five  nationalities  rejoiced  in  one  accord.  We  climbed 
to  the  story  above,  where  the  crown  of  this  bell  was  on  a 


THE  CHINESE  CLASSICS  59 

level  with  us.  Wang  handed  me  a  string  of  cash  which  he 
had  brought  from  home,  and  said,  "See  luck  days.  Tell 
fortune.  Make  wish,  throw  cash  at  hole  top  bell;  hole 
receive  cash,  good  luck."  The  many  cash  were  eagerly 
taken;  the  heart- wishes  were  made,  then  with  eye  intent 
on  the  hole  and  a  steady  hand,  again  and  again  the  un- 
faltering, but  usually  unsuccessful,  effort  was  centred  on 
that  one  point.  Enthusiasm  ran  high  until  every  cash 
was  gone.  Beneath  this  hole  was  a  temple  boy  picking 
up  the  coins  as  they  fell. 

People  come  and  go,  and  this  aged  bell  tells  a  little  of 
time's  centuries  to  each,  and  in  wonderful  tones  sounds  a 
sweet  welcome  and  a  cheering  good-bye.  These  tones 
vary  in  proportion  to  the  quality  of  the  sounding-board 
receiving  them. 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
April  26,  i8gg. 
CAREFUL  following  of  the  intricate  thought-methods 
of  the  Chinese  is  the  only  way  to  reach  accurate  conclu- 
sions about  China  and  her  people,  but  this  careful  follow- 
ing almost  baffles  the  most  diligent  student.  The  other 
day  I  was  talking  with  an  English  gentleman  who  has 
spent  much  time  in  China,  and  who  has  made  a  study  of 
the  language  and  the  people.  He  said,  "On  my  return 
from  America,  after  completing  my  course  of  study  there, 
a  Chinese  scholar  said  to  me,  'I  have  watched  your  pro- 
gress in  studies  since  you  were  a  boy,  and  I  would  say  to 
you,  if  you  would  take  up  and  pursue  for  a  time  the 
Chinese  classics,  it  would  be  of  great  value  to  you ;  I  will 
direct  and  help  you.'"    The  gentleman  acted  upon  this 


60  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

suggestion.  He  told  me  enthusiastically  that  he  found 
mines  of  thought  in  these  classics  —  thought  that  is  world- 
wide in  its  scope  and  bearing. 

I  become  very  earnest  in  my  desire  to  get  behind  the 
scenes;  to  see  the  source,  the  cause,  of  all  of  these  mys- 
terious portrayals  of  honor  and  worth.  The  nice  dis- 
tinctions in  ideas  and  bold  adherence  to  them,  from  the 
most  scholarly  sages  down  to  the  coolie  classes,  are  per- 
plexing and  yet  extremely  interesting  to  those  who  try  to 
understand  them.  The  thought  of  economy  —  to  protect 
and  save  —  reaches  into  and  through  every  part  of  this 
entire  Empire.  To  these  people  nothing  is,  or  should  be, 
lost.  Their  steadfast  unity  of  thought  is  the  cement  that 
has  kept  this  vast  domain  together,  even  when  other 
nations  have  declared  that  its  end  was  near. 

Between  1122  B.  C.  and  249  B.  C.  was  China's  great 
period  in  literature.  In  550  B.  C,  Confucius  was  born. 
His  moral  and  philosophical  teachings  have  been  far- 
reaching,  and  have  influenced  and  moulded  the  lives  of 
more  people  than  those  of  any  other  writer  in  known 
history.  As  learning  transcends  all  else  in  importance  in 
China,  Confucius  has  become  a  saint  to  her  people.  He 
is  considered  the  embodiment  of  wisdom,  a  true  leader 
and  philosopher.  He  was  not  the  founder  of  a  religion, 
but  is  revered  as  a  sage.  In  Chinese  literature  there  are 
the  Nine  Classics.  I  am  told  that  on  these  nine  books  are 
founded  Chinese  religion,  ethics,  philosophy,  education, 
and  etiquette.  The  spirit  of  the  classics  is  essentially 
lofty,  moral,  and  good. 

The  large  temple  in  Peking  built  to  Confucius  is 
massive  and  impressive  in  its  solemn  grandeur.  Many 
buildings  are  in  this  temple,  and  these  buildings  are  of 


POWER  OF  CONFUCIUS  61 

marked  individuality.  In  the  finest  temple  building  is 
a  large  tablet  to  Confucius,  before  which  the  Emperor 
worships.  There  are  also  tablets  to  Confucius'  closest 
followers.  Each  of  the  many  tablets  placed  in  the  build- 
ings, walls,  and  outer  courts  of  this  large  temple  enclos- 
ure is  in  memory  of  some  great  Chinese  sage  or  scholar. 
There  are  catafalques  with  large  tablets  resting  upright 
upon  the  backs  of  turtles;  these  catafalques  always  face 
the  south.  In  gratitude  for  what  Confucius  has  done 
for  China,  temples  have  been  erected  to  his  memory  in 
prominent  places  throughout  the  Empire,  but  not 
until  the  first  century  of  the  Christian  era  was  a  temple 
erected  to  his  memory  by  Imperial  edict.  His  word  is 
quoted  as  law  throughout  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  he 
is  considered  the  great  peace-maker  of  China.  His 
wonderful  writings  settle  difficulties  and  dissensions 
among  the  highest  and  the  lowest.  He  emphasized  an- 
cestral worship  and  the  showing  of  great  respect  to 
parents,  to  the  aged,  and  to  those  in  high  authority,  or 
those  occupying  a  superior  rank.  According  to  this 
teaching  each  person  has  his  own  place,  and  knows  it, 
and  acknowledges  his  responsibilities  in  that  place. 
Each  child  is  taught  his  relation  to  his  parents,  brothers, 
sisters,  and  other  relatives;  to  people  generally,  to  offi- 
cers, and  those  in  high  rank,  up  to  their  "Heaven- 
bestowed  Imperial  Rulers." 

Following  the  Chow  Dynasty,  which  lasted  to  249 
B.  C,  and  which  was  considered  the  great  period  in 
Chinese  literature,  comes  the  Ch'in.  The  Emperor 
Ch'in  was  noted  for  his  good  and  bad  works.  Both  are 
extremes.  He  united  under  one  rule  many  parts  into 
China;    he  began  the  great  Chinese  canal  system;    he 


62  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

built  the  Great  Wall  of  China;  for  personal  glory  he  or- 
dered all  writings  of  every  kind,  including  the  works  of 
all  philosophers  and  even  those  of  Confucius,  to  be  burned. 
With  energy  he  endeavored  to  enforce  this  edict  literally, 
but  he  was  thwarted  in  his  designs,  and  much  of  the  lit- 
erature was  protected  for  future  generations.  Mankind 
is  ignorant  and  always  will  be  ignorant  of  its  great  and 
perhaps  incalculable  loss  sustained  in  that  dark,  selfish 
reign.  History  with  its  joys  and  its  woes,  its  ups  and  its 
downs,  its  comedies  and  its  tragedies,  its  ideas,  true  and 
false,  unselfish  and  selfish,  paints  a  varied  picture  of 
lights  and  shadows. 

The  Ming  Dynasty  was  the  last  that  was  strictly 
Chinese.  The  Mings  reigned  from  1368  to  1644,  when 
they  were  overthrown  by  the  Manchus.  The  capital 
of  China  was  moved  from  Nanking  to  Peking  in  1403 
by  the  Emperor  Yung-lo.  This  Emperor  constructed 
the  famous  Ming  Tombs,  forty  miles  northwest  of  Peking. 

The  Emperor,  being  the  "Son  from  Heaven,"  rules 
supreme,  and  appoints  his  many  helpers,  among  whom 
are  the  viceroys  for  the  Provinces  and  other  high  officials. 
There  are  many  boards  through  which  the  Emperor 
governs  his  people.  The  Tsung  Li  Yamen  is  the  avenue 
through  which  the  foreigner  may  have  intercourse  with 
His  Imperial  Majesty.  The  whole  system  seems  to  be 
wheels  within  wheels,  and  it  really  appears  as  though 
every  official  were  afraid  of  every  other  official,  and  yet 
the  wheels  keep  moving. 

In  the  first  century  A.  D.,  Buddhism  was  introduced 
into  China.  The  Emperor  Ming-ti  sent  an  embassy  to 
bring  tidings  of  the  "foreign  god"  (was  it  the  Christ?), 
of  whose  fame  he  had  learned.     This  embassy  reached 


VICEROY   LI   HUNG  CHANG         63 

India  and  learned  of  Buddha.  Feeling  that  they  had 
found  in  him  the  god  that  they  sought,  they  returned 
to  their  Emperor  with  the  doctrines  and  images  of 
Buddhism.  The  Christ  was  not  found,  and  apparently 
no  conception  of  Him.  Buddhism  became  the  established 
religion  of  China,  and  shrines  with  their  images  in  gold 
or  silver,  bronze,  brass,  clay,  or  wood,  are  found  every- 
where throughout  the  entire  Empire.  Without  per- 
manency, Christianity  found  its  way  into  China  between 
500  A.  D.  and  805  A.  D.  In  1582  the  Jesuits  obtained 
a  permanent  foothold.  About  1557  the  Portuguese 
established  at  Macao  the  first  foreign  settlement  on 
Chinese  soil,  and  Macao  still  bears  the  appearance  of  a 
Portuguese  city. 

Progress  in  acknowledging  Christianity  has  seemed 
slow  to  observers,  but  the  faithful  workers  give  thanks 
that  Jesus'  teachings  have  had  a  hearing,  and  that  even 
a  measure  of  the  Christ-spirit  has  been  revealed  to  this 
self-satisfied  people. 

I  am  going  to  tell  you  of  one  little  "big"  thing  that 
has  come  into  my  life.  It  was  wonderful,  because  never 
done  before  —  a  great  departure  for  the  Chinese.  Li 
Hung  Chang  called  upon  Mr.  Conger;  after  making  his 
official  call  he  asked  to  meet  the  ladies.  On  his  first  call 
after  his  visit  of  several  months  to  the  devastating  floods 
of  the  Yellow  River  districts  he  seemed  unusually  happy, 
and  I  ventured  to  say,  "Your  Excellency,  Li  Hung 
Chang,  if  in  accordance  with  your  thought,  and  that  of 
your  family,  I  should  be  much  pleased  to  pay  my  respects 
to  Lady  Li."  His  reply  was,  "I  will  see."  His  Excel- 
lency shook  hands  with  each  of  us  as  he  departed. 
We  were  delighted  to  converse  with  this  great  scholar, 


64  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

high  official,  and  strong  man  of  China.  The  next  day 
word  came  that  his  wife  and  family  would  be  pleased  to 
receive  the  ladies  of  the  American  Legation,  on  such  a 
day  and  at  such  an  hour. 


[To  a  Niece] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
May  14,  i8gg. 

ON  our  way  to  Shan-hai  Kwan,  the  point  at  which  the 
Great  Wall  of  China  begins,  a  Scotch  railroad  superin- 
tendent said,  "  Chinese  do  well  when  there  are  no  emer- 
gencies—  when  they  can  continue  to  do  the  same  thing 
in  the  same  way;  but  if  for  any  reason  they  have  to  change 
their  actions  at  once,  their  judgment,  which  they  have 
not  cultivated,  does  not  serve  them  quickly.  This  is 
in  cases  where  everything  is  new  to  them.  When  they 
comprehend  what  is  wanted  they  are  clever  in  bringing 
about  the  result.  It  seems  necessary  to  leave  them  alone 
and  to  give  them  time.  How  they  gain  these  results 
you  can  only  vaguely  guess."  This  superintendent  said 
that  his  railroad  company  at  first  had  all  the  responsible 
places  filled  by  foreigners,  and  that  they  took  Chinese  as 
students.  These  students  are  now  able  to  occupy  many 
responsible  positions.  Many  of  the  engine-drivers,  con- 
ductors, and  those  under  him  are  Chinese. 

Chinese  coolies  do  the  work  of  beasts  and  work  with 
beasts  in  the  streets  and  in  the  fields.  We  often  see 
coolies  with  wheelbarrows  heavily  loaded.  One  man 
holds  the  handles;  a  strap  passes  over  his  shoulders  and 
is  so  fastened  as  to  help  steady  the  wheelbarrow.  Other 
coolies,  one  on  either  side,  help  to  pull  and  balance.     Far 


4G& 


Camels  and  the  Peking  Wall 

A  Coolie  at  His  Work 

A  Sample  of  Coolie  Labor  in  Shanghai 


MEN  YOKED  WITH   BEASTS         6$ 

ahead,  a  small  donkey  with  ropes  reaching  back  to  the 
barrow,  is  doing  his  best.  The  coolies  use  no  lines,  but 
talk  to  this  little  fellow  and  guide  him  in  this  way. 

We  saw  on  the  canal  many  boats  with  men  hauling 
them.  They  were  walking  or  running  in  a  tow-path, 
with  ropes.  We  saw  also  in  the  fields  a  man  holding  a 
plough,  while  a  mule  and  an  ox,  with  a  man  between 
them,  hauled  it.  Each  wore  about  his  neck  and  shoul- 
ders a  sort  of  yoke  and  harness.  The  use  of  a  man  be- 
tween the  animals  is  not  uncommon.  The  Chinese  often 
have  ponies,  mules,  donkeys,  oxen,  and  men  all  doing 
the  same  work  together.  But,  remember,  this  is  not  all 
of  China  or  her  people.  Still,  the  trait  of  industry  is  a 
national  characteristic,  and  is  bound  to  work  for  good. 

The  undeveloped  power  slumbering  in  the  Chinese 
nature  cannot  now  be  truly  estimated.  The  great  Si- 
berian desert  has  been  found  to  have  plenty  of  good  water 
treasured  a  little  below  her  unattractive  and  seemingly 
useless  barren  surface.  Thus  may  this  great  mass  of 
people  be  found  to  have  beneath  their  seemingly  barren 
existence  the  rich  springs  of  true  life  ready  to  pour  forth 
l  their  living  treasures. 

China  has  received  ruthless  piercings  from  the  con- 
istant  "pecking"  of  the  foreigner  with  his  so-called  pro- 
jgressive  ideas.  In  the  past  year  there  have  been  telling 
|:  strokes  made  by  the  foreigner,  and  at  first  glance  it  would 
appear  that  China  is  doomed.  But,  on  closer  examina- 
tion, it  almost  seems  that  with  this  old,  great  nation,  and 
per  wonderful  traits  of  character,  this  barbarous  treatment 
by  the  foreigner  may  break  the  hardened  crust  of  super- 
stition and  customs,  and  reveal  a  strength  of  character 
:hat  will  act  well  its  part,  and  China  may  yet  be  found 


66  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

harmoniously  working  with  the  sisterhood  of  nations. 
This  strength  of  character  surely  is  in  her,  and  time  must 
and  will  test  its  quality.  True,  the  Chinese  do  not  think 
or  act  as  does  the  foreigner;  but  the  foreigner  has  not 
made  a  perfect  success  of  life  through  his  trials,  struggles, 
and  "superior"  thinking.  May  it  not  be  found  that  the 
weaving  together  of  the  qualities  of  all  nations  will  soften 
and  complement  the  whole?  I  do  not  mean  that  this 
weaving  should  be  by  intermarriage;  of  that  I  am  no 
advocate. 

The  attitude  that  China  has  always  held  of  superior- 
ity over  all  the  world  has  made  her  so  self-satisfied  that 
she  has  ignored  what  the  outside  world  was  thinking  or 
doing.  It  may  be  that  it  will  take  severity  to  waken  her 
to  the  reality  that  there  is  something  beyond  herself. 
China  is  not  dead,  nor  will  she  die.  I  prophesy  that  she 
will  in  time  unlock  her  barred  gates  and  mingle  and  inter- 
mingle with  other  peoples,  and,  with  a  desire  to  do  so, 
cooperate  in  the  great  struggle  for  a  better  and  higher 
civilization.  China  is  at  present  passing  through  an 
awful  ordeal.  She  has  battles  within  and  battles  with- 
out. The  Chinese  blot  out  with  bloodshed  all  thoughts 
new  to  them,  leave  their  thinkers  headless  —  and  press 
on  with  their  bloody  banner  and  crude  weapons  to  defy 
the  world.  This  unrest  causes  the  diplomatic  duties  to 
multiply  and  become  more  and  more  intricate.  The 
foreign  Ministers  work  harmoniously  together  in  their 
efforts  to  solve  the  knotty  problems. 

We  continue  our  outings  upon  our  ponies,  our  walks 
upon  the  city  wall,  and  our  social  duties  are  not  neg- 
lected. Social  duty  in  the  Diplomatic  Service  requires 
its  book-keeping,  which  must  be  as  accurately  performed 


ETIQUETTE  OF  THE  FLAG  67 

as  that  of  a  cash  book  in  the  bank.  The  book  must  be 
balanced  each  day,  and  not  neglected.  The  diplomat 
is  dealing  with  nations,  not  with  individuals.  Diplo- 
matically you  have  no  favorites,  but  in  your  inmost 
heart  you  can  have,  and  do  have,  intimate  friends;  and 
in  many  ways  this  intimacy  is  manifested. 

Each  nation's  flag  takes  an  active  part  in  Peking. 
On  Sunday  the  Legations  in  unison  hoist  their  flags  early 
in  the  morning,  and  throughout  the  day  these  flags  pro- 
claim the  acknowledged  day  of  worship  in  all  Christian 
lands.  The  language  of  the  flag  is  carefully  watched. 
If  a  holiday  or  a  day  of  rejoicing  comes  to  one  of  the 
eleven  nations  here  represented,  that  nation  proclaims  it 
through  the  waving  of  its  flag  at  its  height,  and  at  once  the 
flag  of  each  sister  nation  waves  back  hearty  congratula- 
tions. If  in  case  of  sorrow  the  flag  goes  not  to  its  height, 
but  bows  its  head  midway,  each  sister  flag  bows  in  sym- 
pathy. Some  time  during  the  day  each  Minister  and  his 
staff  bear  their  personal  congratulations  or  condolences. 
Is  it  not  well  for  nations,  as  for  individuals,  to  have  a 
little  rhythm  of  sentiment  in  their  intercourse  with  one 
another? 

Thursdays  are  my  days  "at  home,"  and  on  these 
days  our  rooms  are  well  filled  with  a  medley  of  foreign- 
ers. We  sip  our  tea,  partake  of  our  simple  refreshments, 
and  have  a  happy  visit.  Each  nation  reveals  its  indi- 
viduality in  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  as  well  as  elsewhere, 
and  it  is  like  a  feast  of  many  courses  when  the  members 
of  this  Corps  come  together.  I  am  quite  sure  that  this 
mingling  gives  strength  and  breadth  in  its  influence. 
Seeing  and  acknowledging  the  worth  in  others  always 
strengthens. 


68  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Sister] 

Peking,  June  3,  i8gg. 

I  AM  going  to  tell  you  of  a  few  things  that  I  have 
seen  in  Peking  since  I  last  wrote.  It  seems  strange  to 
find  all  that  the  Chinese  do  is  part  of  a  system.  How  I 
should  like  to  know  something  of  this  system!  Every- 
thing I  learn  urges  me  on  to  learn  more. 

I  am  not  afraid  of  the  Chinese.  There  is  nothing  about 
them  to  create  fear  in  me,  but  they  can  annoy  me  if  I 
oppose  their  thought  and  their  customs  of  propriety.  It 
is  not  well  for  women  to  go  out  alone  in  Peking.  If  no 
foreign  gentleman  is  with  them,  they  should  have  a 
Chinese  "boy"  or  mafoo.  The  city  wall  is  a  quiet, 
clean  walking  place;  Chinese  are  seldom  allowed  upon 
the  wall,  and  you  feel  safe  and  free.  To-day  daughter 
Laura  started  out  alone  with  our  guests.  They  walked 
to  the  tower  over  the  Ch'ienmen,  meeting  no  one  but  a 
wall-keeper  and  they  threw  him  cash.  They  sat  down 
to  rest  and  watch  the  people  below.  A  beggar  came  and 
asked  for  cash;  they  had  none  and  paid  no  attention 
to  him.  Then  another  and  another  came,  half  clad  in 
their  filthy  rags.  This  was  a  new  phase  on  the  wall. 
Laura,  seeing  the  situation,  said,  "I  don't  understand  this; 
let  us  move  on,  or  retrace  our  steps."  They  retraced. 
The  beggars  followed,  gathering  more  in  numbers  as 
they  went.  These  half-covered  wretches  would  run  in 
front  of  them,  form  lines,  fall  upon  their  knees  at  their 
feet,  kotow  (bump  their  heads  on  the  bricks),  and  yell 
and  cry  in  the  most  horrible  way.  They  stood  on  their 
heads,  turned  over  and  over,  and  kept  up  a  loud  noise 
all  the  while.     These  people  kept  increasing  in  numbers 


CHINESE  BEGGARS  69 

and  yells,  until  the  foreigners  reached  the  place  to  leave 
the  wall  and  descended  upon  the  ramp,  leaving  their 
train  of  twenty  native  escorts  looking  down  upon  them. 
Where  these  dirty,  ragged  people  came  from  is  still 
a  mystery.  There  were  two  well-dressed  Chinamen  on 
the  wall  who  saw  it  all.  I  made  inquiries  why  these  men 
did  not  stop  the  beggars;  the  answer  was,  "They  dare 
not."  These  beggars  are  organized  bands,  and  woe  to 
the  Chinamen  who  interfere  with  their  business. 

During  the  winter  Mr.  Conger  and  his  secretary  saw 
a  beggar  with  nothing  on  but  an  old  sack  thrown  about 
him.  He  came  to  them  crying  and  with  teeth  chattering. 
In  sympathy  they  gave  him  "silver."  They  returned 
shortly  and  saw  that  same  fellow  in  a  corner  putting  on 
fairly  good  clothes  and  plenty  of  them. 

Some  beggars  have  nothing  on  but  a  large  covering 
over  their  shoulders.  They  carry  a  small  stove  under 
this  rag  and  when  cold,  squat  down  and  warm  themselves. 
Others  lie  upon  the  sidewalk  and  wail  and  cry  in  the  most 
pitiful  way,  and  you  will  think  they  are  dying  in  the  great- 
est agonies.  We  learn  this  is  a  business  with  them.  A 
friend  said  to  me,  "Do  not  give  more  than  one  cash  to  a 
beggar;  if  you  give  more  he  will  tell  others  and  many 
will  follow  you  and  cry  for  cash  in  the  most  distressing 
tones,  and  will  bitterly  curse  you  if  you  refuse  to  give 
more." 

The  Chinese  never  interfere  with  one  another.  For 
their  own  safety  they  dare  not.  We  saw  a  man  hauling 
sacks  of  grain;  one  sack  was  broken  and  the  grain  was 
flowing  out  in  the  street.  Many  Chinese  saw  it,  but  it  was 
not  their  business  and  they  did  not  interfere  by  telling 
him.    Again  we  were  passing  and  saw  that  a  man  with 


7o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

his  two  baskets  on  the  end  of  a  pole  had  fallen  and  could 
not  get  up.  The  Chinese  on  the  street  passed  by  him 
and  so  did  we;  on  cur  return  the  man  was  still  lying  there 
but  was  lifeless.  His  baskets  and  pole  were  beside  him 
undisturbed.  The  authorities  alone  had  the  right  to 
touch  that  dead  man  and  his  belongings.  Upon  another 
occasion  we  were  going  through  the  crowded  streets  in  the 
Native  City.  An  obstruction  was  lying  in  the  centre  of 
the  thoroughfare;  this  obstruction  was  a  dead  man 
covered  from  public  view  with  reed  matting.  Each 
person's  rights  are  so  positively  and  so  rigidly  observed 
that  no  one  interferes;  these  systems  are  "as  old  as  the 
hills."  The  Chinese  will  do  all  they  can  for  their  sick, 
then  give  them  into  the  hands  of  the  spirits  to  cure  —  or 
to  kill.  After  they  have  assigned  their  sick  to  the  care 
of  the  spirits  or  gods,  they  do  not  molest  or  interfere.  If 
any  person  should  dare  to  interfere  he  would  so  anger 
the  spirits  that  a  curse  would  ever  follow  the  would-be 
helper,  and  this  helper  would  render  himself  forever 
responsible  for  the  sick  man,  dead  or  alive,  because  he  has 
wronged  the  sick  man,  has  taken  him  out  of  the  hands  of 
the  spirits  and  caused  him  to  be  a  wandering  devil  at  the 
heels  of  the  one  who  interfered. 

The  Chinese  do  not  worship  the  idol,  but  the  thought 
or  the  spirit  that  the  idol  represents.  They  worship  at 
the  shrine  of  "Long  Life,"  "Happiness,"  "Offspring," 
"Ancestors,"  "Agriculture,"  "Heaven,"  "Earth," 
"Rain,"  "Sunshine."  The  bat  means  "Happiness"; 
the  peach,  "Long  Life";  the  pomegranate,  "Many 
Children";  the  dragon  means  "Power";  in  fact,  every- 
thing has  its  significance.  It  is  interesting  to  listen  to 
one  who  has  lived  long  in  China  and  who  has  been  a 


CRIMES  AND   PUNISHMENTS         71 

student  read  the  meanings  of  the  designs  upon  cloth, 
embroideries,  cloisonne,  and  porcelain;  there  is  a  mean- 
ing to  every  stroke.  Even  in  their  gods  and  Buddhas 
they  place  some  material  thing  to  represent  a  thought. 
To  illustrate:  in  their  eyes  looking-glasses  are  placed; 
in  the  heart,  pearls;  in  the  bowels,  money.  Do  you 
see  the  thought  —  reflection,  value,  plenty  ?  The  Chinese 
love  children.  There  is  a  mother  Buddha  holding  a 
small  child  in  her  hand.  Women  visit  this  idol  and 
pray  for  children  and  leave  gifts.  It  is  the  mother- 
thought  going  to  the  mother-spirit  for  help  to  bear  a 
child. 

In  the  sight  of  a  Chinese  the  worst  crime  that  a  person 
can  commit  is  to  take  the  life  of  his  father  or  mother.  In 
such  a  case  the  guilty  child  is  sliced  alive,  cut  up  little  by 
little;  thus  they  destroy  his  spirit  as  completely  as  they 
can.  The  Chinese  are  terrified  over  losing  any  part  of 
their  bodies,  because  if  any  part  is  lost  their  spirits  be- 
come crippled.  If  a  man  is  beheaded  his  friends  will 
often  beg  or  buy  the  privilege  of  sewing  the  head  to  the 
body  that  his  spirit  may  not  go  about  headless.  Have 
I  not  written  enough  to  show  you  that  persecutions  are 
a  blow  at  the  spirits? 

The  Chinese  form  themselves  into  all  sorts  of  clans, 
and  work  systematically  in  them.  Each  season  has  its 
shop  goods.  In  the  season  for  the  lantern  festival  the 
shops  are  filled  with  all  sorts  and  styles  of  lanterns,  from 
the  smallest  to  the  largest  and  most  elegant  ones.  Some 
are  richly  ornamented  with  beautiful,  colored  hangings 
and  designs.  The  Chinese  patience  and  cunning  multi- 
ply the  shapes  and  designs  to  a  wonderfully  large  number. 
After  visiting  the  fairy  streets  of  the  festival,  all  aglow  in 


72  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

their  exquisite  beauty,  I  was  anxious  to  obtain  many  of 
these  lanterns  and  went  into  the  Native  City  to  purchase 
them.  Not  one  was  to  be  found!  These  full  shops  that 
I  had  visited  and  admired  a  few  days  before,  were  now 
empty.  It  looked  as  though  lanterns  were  unknown 
there.  They  were  all  put  away  until  another  "proper 
time"  for  their  appearing. 

When  the  edict  is  issued  for  changing  the  clothing 
from  winter  to  summer,  the  fan  shops  are  full  of  all  sorts 
of  fans.  They  all  disappear  at  the  change  to  winter 
clothing.     Everything  has  its  season,  or  " proper  time." 

This  old,  old  country  with  customs  unchanged  since 
centuries  before  the  Christian  era,  is  unfolding  to  me 
many  Bible  mysteries.  I  can  now  understand  how  the 
money-changers  were  in  the  Temple.  The  Chinese 
temples  are  in  large  walled  enclosures,  the  interior  of 
which  is  divided  into  many  courts  and  buildings.  On 
certain  dates,  the  merchants,  by  paying  a  percentage  to 
the  temple,  are  allowed  to  bring  their  goods  into  these 
courts  and  sell  them.  There  are  all  sorts  of  treasures  and 
goods  gathered  together  here,  and  people  throng  these 
courts  and  buy  these  goods. 

In  the  summer  we  take  our  rides  early  in  the  morning. 
We  have  coffee  and  start  out  for  a  two  or  three  hours' 
ride,  returning  at  eight  for  breakfast.  Mr.  Conger  is 
always  seeking  new  paths,  and  on  our  ponies  we  can  tra- 
verse narrow  byways.  One  morning  we  went  into  an  un- 
familiar street  through  which  we  could  scarcely  make  our 
way.  It  was  brilliant  on  either  side  with  artificial  flowers 
of  all  descriptions.  Wonderful,  beautiful,  almost  perfect 
they  were  in  their  imitation  of  the  living  flower.  We 
wended  our  way  slowly,  for  we  were  delighted  and  wanted 


THE   FAMILY  OF  A   NOBLE         73 

to  tarry.  After  riding  less  than  an  hour  we  returned  to 
see  more  of  the  flower  street.  It  was  empty!  The 
flowers  were  gone,  the  people  were  gone!  What  did  it 
mean?  We  asked  our  mafoo;  he  said,  "Oh,  no  proper 
time  now." 

Mr.  Pethick,  Li  Hung  Chang's  American  secretary 
for  over  twenty-five  years,  brought  word  that  arrange- 
ments were  made  for  us  to  pay  a  visit  to  Lady  Li,  the 
wife  of  Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang.  Five  ladies  started  out 
in  five  sedan  chairs  with  twenty-four  chair- bearers,  four 
outriders,  and  our  head  boy.  After  travelling  about  forty- 
five  minutes  we  reached  the  home  of  His  Excellency,  Li 
Hung  Chang.  Mr.  Pethick  met  us  at  the  gate  and  intro- 
duced us  to  Mr.  Li,  Li  Hung  Chang's  youngest  son,  who 
escorted  us  through  courts  to  the  reception  room,  where 
he  introduced  us  to  his  mother,  sister,  wife,  and  cousin, 
who  were  standing  in  a  semi-circle  near  the  door.  They 
shook  hands  with  us,  then  Lady  Li  motioned  for  me  to  be 
seated  at  her  left,  with  a  Chinese  table  between  us.  The 
room  was  large  and  mostly  furnished  with  foreign  furni- 
ture. How  I  did  wish  that  we  could  enter  one  of  their 
purely  Chinese  rooms! 

These  ladies  were  dressed  in  the  richest  of  Chinese 
attire  —  choice  satin  embroideries  and  brocades,  and  the 
finest  of  foreign  jewels.  Their  hair  was  plain,  with  a 
large  coil  behind,  and  flat  jewelled  ornaments.  Their 
faces  were  delicately  painted.  Their  feet  were  extremely 
small,  and  were  encased  in  embroidered  shoes.  Their 
skirts  were  quite  long,  and  they  wore  short  over-garments. 

During  the  conversation  Mr.  Li  asked  how  I  liked  the 
Chinese  costume.  Wnen  I  told  him  I  liked  it  very  much, 
he  said,  "Chinese  gentlemen  can  wear  pretty  colors  as 


74  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

well  as  the  ladies."  I  replied,  "  Bright  colors  complement 
gentlemen  as  well  as  ladies."  I  think  it  would  be  a  great 
pity  and  mistake  to  change  their  wearing  apparel  until  the 
people  themselves  are  changed  in  many  ways. 

Our  visit  was  a  strange  delight  to  us.  We  remained 
about  thirty  minutes,  talking,  drinking  tea,  and  partaking 
of  refreshments;  then  paid  our  compliments  to  the  ladies, 
and  Mr.  Li  escorted  us  to  our  chairs.  This  son  speaks 
English  fluently,  and  is  fine  in  looks  and  manners.  The 
ladies  were  pretty,  gentle,  and  attractive  in  every  act. 
We  were  among  the  first  foreign  ladies  that  they  had  ever 
met;  they  have  never  met  foreign  gentlemen. 

A  week  later  Li  Hung  Chang's  son,  daughter,  son's 
wife,  and  cousin  returned  our  call,  and  the  wife  of  the 
Viceroy  sent  her  compliments.  No  foreign  gentlemen 
were  expected  to  be  present,  and  they  were  not.  Mr.  Li 
told  us  that  these  ladies  had  never  before  visited  a  foreign 
home.  But  they  were  not  surprised  at  anything.  They 
were  richly  dressed  in  fine  embroidered  satins  and  trim- 
mings, choice  ornaments,  and  jewels  of  great  value,  many 
pearls,  diamonds,  and  other  precious  stones.  They 
remained  nearly  an  hour  and  we  were  greatly  pleased 
with  their  visit.  In  accordance  with  Chinese  custom, 
the  sister  took  the  official  chair  and  started  out  ahead  of 
the  brother's  wife. 

Mr.  Pethick  said,  "You  should  consider  yourselves 
complimented  and  much  honored,  because  the  Viceroy  Li 
Hung  Chang  is  very  strict  about  his  daughter.  He  forbids 
her  going  out,  but  has  let  her  come  here.  This  is  a  com- 
pliment to  the  American  Minister  and  to  his  country." 


HOMES   IN   TEMPLES  75 

[To  a  Nephew] 

Western  Hills, 
July  14.,  i8gg. 

AGAIN  we  are  in  our  temple  home  at  the  Western 
Hills.  Before  coming  to  China  I  gave  myself  needless 
trouble  by  questioning  how  we  could  live  in  a  temple. 
They  are  in  reality  walled  compounds  which  include  many 
buildings  besides  the  shrine  buildings.  The  American 
Minister  has  for  many  years  rented  one  of  these  temples, 
and  this  we  are  now  occupying.  The  place  is  attractive 
with  its  large  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  The  outlook  to- 
ward the  city  is  grand  and  stretches  over  a  vast  plain  dotted 
with  many  cemetery  groves  and  fertile  fields.  With  our 
field-glass  we  can  recognize  Mr.  Conger  at  a  great  distance, 
when  he  is  returning  from  the  city.  We  then  have  time  to 
descend  the  hills  and  walk  far  out  to  meet  him.  Some  of 
the  temples  are  very  large  and  cover  many  acres  with 
their  different  courts  and  buildings,  shrines,  and  beauti- 
ful gardens  with  clear  lakes  and  running  brooks.  The 
lakes  almost  invariably  are  well  filled  with  gold  fish  and 
blooming  lotus.  Most  of  these  Western  Hill  temples 
are  very  old.  The  buildings  where  the  priests  live  and 
hold  their  worship  are  apart  from  those  rented  to  foreign- 
ers. These  priests  do  not  interfere  with  us;  they  are 
kind  and  often  let  us  see  them  in  their  religious  services. 

We  spent  the  Fourth  of  July  out  here.  A  celebration 
we  had  to  have,  and  sent  to  Peking  for  fireworks.  Mr. 
Bainbridge,  American  secretary,  and  his  wife,  live  in  a 
temple  about  half  a  mile  distant.  On  the  Fourth  Mr. 
Bainbridge  arose  very  early,  climbed  far  up  Mount  Bruce, 
and  made  a  great  noise  with  double  cannon-crackers 


76  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

which  echoed  and  re-echoed.  The  top  of  Mount  Bruce 
was  enveloped  in  dense  smoke,  as  though  a  battle  were 
raging.  We  enthusiastically  responded  with  our  double 
cannon-crackers,  and  boom — boom — boom — boom  they 
echoed  back !  Early  we  raised  our  large  American  flag 
and  "the  stripes  and  bright  stars"  waved  the  good  tidings 
of  our  Independence  Day  to  the  great  city  below. 

Guests  from  America  were  with  us,  and  after  breakfast 
we  gathered  upon  our  large  veranda  for  our  celebration 
exercises,  with  the  dear  flag  before  us.  Our  numbers 
were  few,  but  our  heart-beats  were  many  and  strong.  We 
sang  with  intense  feeling, 

"  My  country,  't  is  of  thee, 
Sweet  land  of  liberty, 
Of  thee  I  sing." 

We  found,  when  too  late  to  get  it,  that  the  Declaration 
of  Independence  was  at  the  Legation  in  Peking;  but  we 
had  the  Constitution  and  we  read  it  and  commented  upon 
its  rich  wisdom.  We  also  read  "The  Star-spangled 
Banner,"  because  our  voices  refused  to  show  the  honor 
due  the  song. 

Then  the  Chinese  servants  came  to  help  us  fire 
the  long  strings  with  their  hundreds  of  fire-crackers. 
These  strings  they  attached  to  a  high  pole,  and  the  many 
crackers  were  very  enthusiastic,  each  striving  to  be  first 
in  giving  its  loud  welcome  to  the  great  American  day. 
The  cannon-cracker  boomed  its  double  load  with  wonder- 
ful vigor.  Our  servants  seemed  to  enjoy  the  exciting, 
noisy  part  of  the  celebration.  As  you  know,  China  is 
the  home  of  fire-crackers  and  fireworks,  and  the  Chinese 
are  exceedingly  clever  in  their  manufacture.     Our  veranda 


INDEPENDENCE   DAY  77 

faces  the  east  and  is  high  above  the  path  below,  as  the 
wall  of  the  terrace  rises  many  feet.  Little  half-clad  boys 
gathered  to  pick  up  the  "crumbs"  as  they  fell.  As  we 
threw  crackers  below,  these  little  boys  struggled  for  them 
in  great  glee. 

We  sat  under  the  bright  folds  of  our  national  colors 
and  talked  over  the  many  events  that  have  brought  their 
untold  sorrows,  joys,  and  responsibilities  to  our  country 
as  a  whole,  and  to  her  people  individually.  Many  rapid 
steps  have  been  taken  in  the  past  year.  May  time  prove 
that  these  steps  were  taken  upward  and  onward  and  that 
they  brought  blessings  to  humanity.  May  the  acknowledg- 
ment and  praises  extended  to  us  by  sister  nations  en- 
courage and  urge  us  on  to  still  better  deeds. 

A  Fourth  of  July  celebration  abroad  does  not  require 
large  numbers  to  make  it  a  day  of  thrilling  heart-beats 
and  enthusiastic  rejoicings.  We  love  our  beautiful  flag, 
and  when  abroad  its  songs  of  protection  grow  sweeter  and 
clearer.  I  love  to  write  about  our  country's  flag  to  you, 
for  from  your  young  boyhood  we  used  to  sing  together, 
"The  red,  white,  and  blue."  There  are  many  countries 
which  have  adopted  in  different  combinations  these 
colors  —  hence  let  us  hereafter  sing  in  our  hearts  —  "  Our 
stripes  and  bright  stars."  My  dear  boy,  you  are  almost 
a  man  now!  How  could  you  grow  so  tall  in  these  short 
years  ?  Mr.  Conger  and  I  are  proud  of  the  victories  you 
have  won  in  fighting  your  life's  battles.  They  came 
early  to  you,  but  they  have  helped  to  form  a  strong 
character. 


78  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Nephew] 

Western  Hills, 
August  4.,  i8gg. 

A  PARTY  of  five  of  us  visited  two  temples  a  few  miles 
distant ;  Pi  Yiin  Ssu,  of  five  hundred  and  eight  idols,  and 
Wo  Fu  Ssu,  of  the  Sleeping  Buddha.  We  left  our  temple 
at  one  o'clock  with  mountain  chairs,  chair  coolies,  ponies, 
mafoos,  servants,  and  donkeys  and  their  drivers.  Our  pil- 
grimage was  through  a  fine  farming  country  rich  with  har- 
vest. Every  particle  of  ground  except  the  narrow  footpaths 
was  carefully  cultivated.  The  farms  looked  large,  but 
many  indistinct  lines  separate  them  into  smaller  tracts. 

Where  there  are  vegetables,  fruit,  or  melons,  you  will 
see  little  mat  tents  where  men  sleep  to  protect  their  crops. 
The  homes  of  these  farmers  are  in  walled  villages.  They 
eat  at  common  mess-houses,  and  their  food  costs  but 
little.  We  passed  through  His  Majesty's  army  reviewing 
grounds,  the  walls  and  buildings  of  which  are  high  and 
massive.  The  Emperor's  outlook  is  securely  protected. 
After  leaving  this  point,  our  way  was  over  a  hill  so  rocky 
that  the  riders  were  obliged  to  dismount.  The  rest  of 
the  way  to  the  temple  was  rough  and  stony,  but  the  chair 
coolies  never  flinched.  They  took  us  everywhere  without 
hesitation,  and  stopped  only  three  times  during  the  five- 
mile  trip.  The  mafoo  rode  ahead  on  a  pony;  the  chairs 
followed  him;  those  on  ponies  came  next,  and  then  the 
donkeys.  The  riders  were  obliged  to  keep  their  ponies 
trotting  most  of  the  time  to  keep  up  with  the  chairs.  I 
never  saw  such  human  speed  up  and  down  and  over  rocks 
as  these  men  made.  After  travelling  these  ten  miles 
they  came  in  laughing  and  joking.    The  chair  coolies 


HALLS  OF  IDOLS  79 

take  great  pride  in  their  work;  the  leader  you  can  soon 
designate,  as  he  looks  and  acts  superior  and  is  better 
dressed. 

Our  first  boy  and  mafoo  went  ahead  and,  with  money, 
opened  the  gates  and  doors,  and  we  entered.  We  first 
visited  the  Hall  of  the  Five  Hundred  and  Eight  Idols.  The 
room  is  immense;  many  avenues  reach  through  and  across 
it,  with  large  idols,  about  five  times  life  size,  on  either  side 
of  these  passageways.  These  idols  are  sitting  or  stand- 
ing closely  together,  with  an  incense  cup  in  front  of  each. 
The  idols  are  all  different  in  attitude  and  expression; 
all  are  gilded  and  painted.  We  walked  through  these 
avenues  inspecting  and  wondering  what  it  all  meant  — 
so  very  much  to  the  Chinese  and  so  very  little  to  us.  We 
entered  the  Hall  of  the  Thousand  Buddhas;  most  of  these 
are  small,  and  are  seated  side  by  side  on  terraced  shelves. 
We  next  came  to  the  Hall  of  Heaven  and  found  it  filled 
with  most  striking  and  extravagant  fancies.  There  were 
heights  to  climb  and  thousands  of  pilgrims  were  toiling 
up  the  rugged  way  to  glory.  This  was  all  illustrated  in 
bas-relief,  and  painted  in  attractive  colors.  Across  the 
court  was  the  Hall  of  Hell  where  thousands  of  figures 
were  seen  tumbling  down  the  heights,  headless,  pierced, 
blood-stained,  torn,  disgraced,  and  punished  in  the  ex- 
treme of  cruel  fancies.  We  hastened  out  of  this  degraded 
atmosphere  of  thought. 

Wonderfully  strange  is  the  portrayal  of  the  Hall  of 
Heaven,  with  its  fanciful  climbs  to  glory  and  happiness; 
the  Hall  of  Hell,  with  its  dreadful  curses,  downfall,  and 
wretchedness;  of  the  Five  Hundred  Idols;  and  the  Hall 
of  the  Thousand  Buddhas.  Each  of  these  fills  its  own 
place  and  helps  to  make  up  a  strange,  weird  whole.    In 


8o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

the  ceilings  of  these  buildings,  and  in  other  temple  build- 
ings, are  painted  wheels  of  fortune.  Months  and  signs 
tell  a  fortune  for  every  person.  These  wheels  are  rep- 
resented as  always  revolving  and  they  symbolize  the 
wheels  of  life,  in  which  the  Chinese  believe  that  all  persons 
whirl  until  they  reach  the  height  of  their  ability;  they  are 
then  cast  off  until  ready  to  go  higher,  or  lower,  as  the  case 
may  be,  when  they  are  again  taken  up.  This  continues 
until  they  reach  the  height  of  a  Buddha,  or  fall  to  the 
depth  of  the  evil  one.  Do  we  not  detect  their  thought? 
Good  claims  its  own  upon  the  eternal  heights,  and  evil 
its  own  in  the  bottomless  pit  of  destruction. 

Up  and  on  we  went,  passing  through  massive  arches 
and  over  artistic  bridges.  Carved  balustrades  encircled 
large  aquariums,  with  silver  and  gold  fish,  eels,  frogs, 
turtles,  and  other  animal  life  moving  quietly  and  happily 
in  the  clear  water,  amid  the  shade  of  the  beautiful  lotus, 
or  in  the  bright  sunshine.  There  seemed  to  be  a  home 
here  in  the  alive  stillness  of  this  charming  spot.  The 
grounds  are  attractively  ornamented  with  trees,  shrubs, 
vines,  living  springs,  brooks,  lakes,  grottoes,  artistic 
paths,  and  wonderful  masonry.  We  climbed  many  stone 
steps  and  reached  the  fountain-head  of  this  supply  of  clear  , 
water.  It  was  a  refreshing  place ;  the  trees  were  trailing 
with  vines,  and  at  their  feet  nestled  ferns  and  flowers. 
We  climbed  up  and  up  still  farther,  until  we  reached 
the  top  of  a  large  building  of  stone.  Here  we  found 
massive  carved  monuments  of  stone  and  bronze.  The 
view  was  inspiring!  One  side  marked  out  our  pilgrimage 
to  the  temple  and  our  course  to  this  great  height;  on  the 
other  side  was  an  abrupt,  deep  abyss,  beautiful  and  green. 
At  the  bottom  of  this  abyss  the  sloping  hills  began  to  rise, 


THE  SLEEPING   BUDDHA  81 

and  a  range  of  hills,  which  displayed  on  their  heights 
both  Chinese  enterprise  and  nature's  prolific  gifts  made 
a  picture  of  rare  beauty. 

The  Pi  Yiin  Ssu  is  one  of  the  largest  temples  that  we 
have  visited  in  China.  The  vast  amount  of  thought  and 
labor  it  represents  in  buildings,  marble  cutting,  monu- 
ments, carved  granite  arches,  gateways,  terraces,  stone 
steps,  bridges,  shrines,  and  almost  numberless  expressions 
of  imagination's  imagery,  is  most  wonderful.  The  priests 
were  attentive  and  kind ;  they  showed  us  respect  and  many 
favors,  and  explained  the  temple  and  its  belongings.  We 
bade  adieu  to  this  three-hundred-year-old  monument  built 
to  the  gods,  and  wended  our  way  down  and  out  from 
under  its  shelter.  What  could  have  been  the  thought  of 
the  builders?  We  are  dull  indeed  if  we  cannot  learn 
lessons  from  all  this. 

We  were  soon  on  our  way  to  the  Sleeping  Buddha. 
The  entrance  to  this  temple  is  through  a  long  avenue  of 
large  trees,  with  a  stone  pavement  passageway.  At  the 
md  of  this  avenue,  and  leading  into  the  temple  proper, 
I  an  imposing  gateway  of  colored  tiles,  with  three  en- 
xances.  We  passed  on  through  many  places  of  inter- 
est, to  the  building  of  the  Sleeping  Buddha. 

We  had  heard  and  read  of  this  wonderful  Buddha, 
md  we  had  seen  many  pictures  of  it  —  now  we  saw  for 
>urselves.  What  a  monster!  What  a  gross  thought 
nust  have  conceived  it!  There,  lying  on  his  side,  with 
.aim  face,  closed  eyes,  and  head  resting  upon  his  hand, 
3  this  gilded  wooden  figure  thirty  feet  long.  Every  part 
if  the  body  is  in  proportion.  His  left  arm  is  resting  upon 
ds  body  and  his  bare  feet  are  placed  one  upon  the  other. 
■Jot  far  from  his  feet  were  many  pairs  of  immense  Chinese 


82  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

shoes  —  offerings  of  worshippers.  This  Buddha  is  sleep- 
ing upon  a  Chinese  Wang.  Standing  about  him  are 
twelve  crowned  and  beautifully  dressed  images;  in  front 
of  him  are  the  symbols  of  sacrifices  for  burning  incense. 
We  looked  and  looked.     What  extravagant  conceptions! 

Leaving  the  temple  of  the  Sleeping  Buddha,  we  passed 
through  another  temple  filled  with  idols.  In  some  of 
these  old  temples  there  is  richly  inlaid,  deeply  carved, 
heavy  wood  furniture ;  there  are  bells  with  richest,  sweet- 
est of  tones,  bells  such  as  are  not  made  in  these  days. 

Our  homeward  trip  was  delightful,  and  we  feel  that 
we  have  learned  a  little  more  of  the  Chinese  character. 


[To  a  Sister] 

On  Shipboard,  Pacific  Ocean, 

October  4.,  i8gg. 

WE  are  happy  members  of  the  ship's  family,  and 
sailing  away  toward  our  dear  home  land.  Mr.  Conger  is 
not  with  us,  but  while  the  distance  is  widening  between 
us,  every  day  shortens  the  time  of  our  separation.  To- 
day we  crossed  the  one  hundred  eightieth  meridian;  this 
gives  us  two  October  fourths  and  two  Wednesdays.  On 
board  ship  I  have  much  leisure,  so  I  am  going  to  tell  you 
a  little  about  China,  and  something  of  what  we  have  been 
doing  in  the  past  two  months. 

The  treaty  ports  of  China  are  mostly  composed  of 
two  cities  in  one;  the  Chinese  native  walled  city,  and  the 
foreign  settlement,  or  concession.  The  Chinese  hold 
steadfastly  to  their  habits  and  ideas;  while  in  the  foreign 
settlement  everything  is  foreign.  These  concessions  are 
beautiful;  they  have  attractive  parks,  fine,  broad  macad- 


FARMING  METHODS  83 

amized  streets,  and  sidewalks  lined  on  either  side  with 
beautiful  shade  trees  and  flowering  shrubs  and  plants. 
In  fact  the  foreigners  in  these  concessions  can  live 
quite  to  their  liking  in  beautiful  homes.  In  the  interior, 
foreigners  are  to  a  great  extent  obliged  to  fall  in  line  with 
the  Chinese  way  of  living.  The  mode  of  travelling  in 
cities  and  in  the  country  in  North  China  is  in  carts, 
chairs,  mule  litters,  on  ponies  or  donkeys.  Outside  of 
the  foreign  concessions,  streets  and  roads  are  unkept, 
and  bear  the  ruts  and  wear  of  ages.  The  interior  cities 
do  not  have  the  foreign  concessions,  hence  they  are  purely 
Chinese.  The  Government  sanctions  no  foreign  enter- 
prise within  the  borders  of  these  cities;  when  the  for- 
eigner presumes  to  establish  himself  in  them,  he  does  so 
at  his  own  risk. 

Every  part  of  the  country  is  carefully  and  diligently 
cultivated.  The  Chinese  fertilize  with  the  frugal  gath- 
erings of  all  manure  in  cities  and  elsewhere,  and  the  crops 
I  are  luxuriant.  These  people  are  economical  in  the  ex- 
treme. In  North  China  the  winters  are  quite  cold,  and 
fuel  is  scarce  and  expensive.  Every  part  of  the  entire 
crop,  from  the  root  to  the  grain,  is  brought  into  use. 
The  stalks  of  the  larger  grains  are  stripped  of  their  leaves 
at  a  certain  stage  of  development  and  carefully  laid  out 
to  cure.  Then  the  grain  is  gathered  and  the  stalk  util- 
ized; lastly,  the  roots,  all  the  weeds,  undergrowth,  and 
leaves  are  gathered  and  tied  into  bundles  for  fuel.  In 
winter  the  country  is  barren;  it  looks  as  though  nothing 
ever  grew  there,  but  when  the  spring  opens,  many  tillers 
}f  the  soil  are  out,  digging  and  planting,  and  the  fields 
Dlossom  into  beautiful  gardens.  Thus  the  ages  go  on, 
md  the  soil  is  not  depleted. 


84  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

During  the  afternoon  of  August  fourth  we  started 
out  for  a  trip  to  temples  not  far  away.  The  old  priest 
of  our  temple  was  sitting  outside  and,  as  I  spoke  to  him, 
he  replied  pleasantly.  When  we  returned  everything 
was  quiet  outside,  and  as  we  entered  the  gate  we  saw 
many  of  the  servants  standing  about.  The  old  priest's 
servants  were  near  him;  he  was  sitting  on  his  feet  upon 
a  lotus  leaf  with  body  upright  like  a  Buddha,  and  scarcely 
breathing.  The  coolies  were  holding  his  feet  crossed, 
and  his  hands  in  position,  with  head  and  body  erect, 
waiting  for  him  to  die.  He  remained  sitting  in  this  po- 
sition for  five  hours.  Doctors  came,  but  could  do  nothing 
for  him;  they  said  he  must  die.  They  finally  took  some 
doors  to  his  room,  spread  a  blanket  over  them,  and  placed 
him  upon  the  blanket  in  the  same  position  as  before. 
One  doctor  said  he  might  not  die  until  morning,  and  that 
he  could  be  stretched  out  upon  his  back.  At  three 
o'clock  he  breathed  his  last,  sitting  upon  his  feet,  and 
dressed  in  his  yellow  robes.  He  was  at  once  placed  in 
his  camphor-wood  coffin.  Many  priests  chanted  their 
death-chant,  accompanied  by  the  clanging  of  cymbals 
and  the  beating  of  drums.  The  coffin  was  immediately 
sealed,  decorated,  and  carried  into  the  temple  rooms  with! 
the  gods.  Priests,  increasing  by  large  numbers,  came 
from  the  other  temples.  The  chanting  and  wailing 
music  grew  louder,  as  the  compound  filled  fuller. 

We  called  our  first  boy,  Wang,  and  said  to  him, 
"What  are  they  going  to  do?  What  shall  we  do?'l 
His  reply  was,  "Think  better  go.  Many  days  like  this. 
Much  music.  Many  come."  A  messenger  was  sent 
to  the  city  for  carts  and  coolies;  that  night  all  were  at 
the  temple,  and  by  daylight  our  belongings  were  packed, 


KOREA  AND  JAPAN  85 

loaded,  and  ready  to  start.  We  mounted  our  ponies  at 
five  o'clock,  and  waving  our  good-byes  to  our  much- 
loved  temple  home  in  the  hills,  we  were  off  for  the  city. 

Mr.  Conger  and  his  secretary,  Mr.  Cheshire,  started 
August  twenty-first  on  the  American  warship  Princeton 
to  visit  all  the  American  Consulates  in  China.  They 
expect  to  be  gone  from  three  to  four  months.  As  they 
were  going  on  a  warship,  the  girls  and  I  could  not  accom- 
pany them.  I  rejoice  that  Mr.  Conger  will  be  relieved 
for  a  time  from  this  increasing,  complicated,  strenuous 
office  work.  You  cannot  conceive  how  the  work  in  this 
Legation  has  multiplied  with  new  questions  since  we  came 
to  China. 

The  girls  and  I  started  September  fourth  for  our 
home  land,  and  many  Peking  friends  bade  us  God-speed 
on  our  long  journey.  They  are  dear,  dear  friends,  and 
we  know  how  to  love  and  appreciate  them.  Friends  are 
lamps  in  the  darkness,  and  joys  in  the  sunshine.  We 
touched  Chefoo  en  route  to  Korea.  At  Chamulpo  we 
went  on  shore  to  meet  the  strange  people  with  their 
strange  ways.  We  also  stopped  at  Mokpo  and  Fusan; 
at  the  latter  place  we  had  time  to  see  and  learn  quite  a 
little  of  the  Korean  shop  and  street  life.  These  natives 
always  dress  in  white,  summer  and  winter.  They  seem 
more  like  the  Japanese  than  the  Chinese,  still  they  have 
marked  characteristics  of  their  own.  We  rejoiced  over 
this  glimpse  of  Korea. 

We  were  happily  entertained  one  day  in  Nagasaki, 
Japan.  At  Kobe  we  hastened  to  get  money  changed 
into  yen,  and  our  baggage  stored  to  be  taken  up  by  the 
aext  steamer,  while  we  were  off  by  rail  to  see  something 
)f  the  interior  of  the  "garden  country."     Kyoto  was  our 


86  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

first  stop.  We  had  permits  to  visit  the  Mikado  Palace, 
and  its  beautiful  gardens,  also  Nigo  Castle.  Both  are 
historic  places  and  reveal  much  of  the  Japanese  thought. 
We  visited  temples  and  shops,  and  bought  some  of 
Japan's  fine  productions.  We  viewed,  as  a  passing  pano- 
rama, this  beautiful  country.  We  had  not  time  in  two 
weeks  to  study  or  even  to  look  into  causes,  but  we  ac- 
cepted as  much  as  we  could  of  results  as  we  saw  them. 
The  fruit  industry  is  limited,  but  rice  and  other  grains, 
tobacco,  and  vegetables  are  raised  in  abundance.  As 
we  passed  through  the  railroad  cities  and  towns,  we  ob- 
served many  large  and  small  factories  and  industries. 
Negoya  is  a  large  and  well-kept  city.  We  found  no  one 
who  spoke  English,  but  our  boy  Wang,  who  accom- 
panied us,  managed  so  well  that  we  got  along  without 
trouble.  China  and  Japan  have  the  same  characters 
for  their  spoken  and  written  language;  these  characters 
have  different  names,  but  their  meaning  is  the  same. 
Wang  and  the  Japanese  conversed  in  signs  or  writing. 
A  Japanese  professor  in  the  Chinese  Imperial  Univer- 
sity at  Peking  told  me  that  the  Japanese  language,  art, 
and  customs  originally  came  from  China,  through  Korea. 
China,  Korea,  and  Japan  have  the  same  written  language, 
but  cannot  converse  with  one  another  in  this  language. 


[To  a  Friend] 

Nagato  S.  S., 
April  i,  i goo. 
WE  are  within  three  hundred  miles  of  our  Legation 
home  and  have  had  a  comfortable  and  safe  journey  from 
our  home  land.     But  now,  just  off  from  Chefoo,  we  have  > 


FOG-BOUND   AT  SEA  87 

been  fog-bound  for  about  thirty-six  hours.  I  am  sorry 
for  Mr.  Conger  for  he  expects  us  at  Tientsin  to-day.  He 
has  no  way  of  learning  where  we  are  nor  what  the  matter 
is.  He  knows  only  that  we  are  somewhere  in  the  China 
Sea.  As  there  is  a  wind  this  morning,  we  hope  to  move 
to-day. 

There  are  many  passengers  on  board  and  all  are 
making  the  best  of  the  situation.  I  was  never  fog-bound 
before.  We  cannot  see  anything  —  not  even  the  water, 
nor  much  of  the  ship.  Everything  is  wet,  wet,  wet! 
It  seems  as  though  we  were  deep  in  the  sea.  The  Cap- 
tain says  that  sometimes  fogs  detain  ships  in  these  waters 
for  five  days.  I  have  to  watch  myself,  not  to  become 
impatient  to  go  on.  The  Captain  is  running  this  ship 
according  to  sea  rules,  and  I  must  "hands  off."  We  are 
a  gay  company.  The  ship  is  clean;  the  cabins  are 
roomy;  there  is  good  service  and  good  food,  and  we  are 
comfortable.  You  see  we  do  not  complain,  but  we  do 
want  to  go  on. 

April  2.  We  are  safely  out  of  the  fog,  but  are  two 
days  late.  A  ship  was  wrecked  on  the  rocks  and  we 
picked  up  the  passengers,  who  had  been  for  several  hours 
floating  upon  the  open  sea  in  life-boats.  We  waved  and 
waved  good  cheer  to  them  on  our  approach,  and  what  a 
welcome  we  gave  them  as  they  stepped  upon  the  deck! 
When  they  found  that  they  were  safe  among  friends,  they 
covered  their  faces  and  burst  into  sobs  and  tears.  Not 
a  tear  had  come  before.  We  heard  their  story  and  strove 
to  help  them.  They  had  suffered  from  exposure  and 
lack  of  food  and  water;  they  had  lost  their  baggage, 
except  what  they  had  in  their  cabins,  but  no  lives  were 
lost;   all  were  safe  and  well.    They  said  that  they  were 


88  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

very  impatient  to  go  on  when  they  found  themselves 
fog-bound,  and  they  went  on,  to  their  sorrow.  What 
strange,  wonderful,  lamentable,  encouraging,  joyous 
experiences  come  into  our  lives,  as  we  travel  on  and  on 
through  the  many  phases  of  this  world's  living! 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  4,  igoo. 

SHOULD  you  like  to  hear  something  about  the  situa- 
tion in  China  as  I  see  it  ?  You  will  hear  much  from  other 
sources.  As  I  have  said  before,  China  does  not  like  for- 
eigners, and  would  like  to  be  left  to  herself;  but  for- 
eigners are  determined  not  to  let  her  alone,  and  they 
make  inroads  and  demands  in  many  ways.  The  whole 
line  of  Chinese  thinking  seems  to  be  locked  from  the 
foreigner  and  sealed  with  many  secret  fastenings.  Chi- 
nese character  is  strange  to  the  foreigner,  but  no  more 
strange  than  is  the  foreigner's  character  to  the  Chinese. 

The  anti-foreign  thought  has  been  openly  growing 
for  many  months,  and  for  the  past  few  months  it  has  pre- 
sented itself  in  organized  and  organizing  bands  called 
Boxers.  These  are  composed  of  the  coolie  class.  As 
there  has  been  no  rain  for  many  months,  and  as  famine 
threatens  this  great  mass  of  people,  they  say  there  is  a 
cause  for  the  gods  of  rain  not  answering  their  prayers. 
They  believe  that  the  "foreign  devils"  have  bewitched 
their  gods,  poisoned  their  wells,  brought  sickness  upon 
their  children,  and  are  striving  to  ruin  them  completely. 
The  Boxers  come  together  and  go  through  all  sorts  of 
strange  rites  and   incantations  to  win   back  the   good 


ORGANIZING   BOXER   BANDS        89 

spirits.  They  claim  that  many  thousands  of  spirit  sol- 
diers will  come  down,  sweep  away  the  "foreign  devils," 
and  set  the  Chinese  free.  They  believe  that  these  spirits 
enter  the  Boxers  and  protect  them  against  danger,  so 
that  no  bullets  or  other  weapons  can  pierce  them.  The 
Chinese  soldiers  seem  to  hold  this  belief  in  regard  to  the 
Boxers,  and  have  said,  "No  good  to  shoot;  can't  kill 
them." 

A  spirit  of  discontent  pervades  all  of  North  China. 
The  army  is  either  afraid  of  the  Boxers,  or  in  sympathy 
with  them.  The  Chinese  officials  apparently  fear  their 
power,  and  act  accordingly.  The  Government  seems 
to  be  tottering  at  the  throne.  There  is  evidently  discord 
there.  The  foreign  Ministers  went  again  and  again  to 
the  Tsung  Li  Yamen,  the  highest  officials,  and  urged 
them  to  do  something  to  protect  the  foreigners.  The 
Yamen  did  so  little  that  the  Ministers  concluded  that  they 
must  ask  their  Governments  for  guards.  The  Minis- 
ters did  not  wish  to  do  this,  but  they  were  forced  to  do  it. 

Again  I  am  going  to  take  items  from  my  diary.  These 
jottings  suggest  our  life  —  you  can  fill  in  the  story. 

April  3.  In  our  Legation  home!  Happy,  happy 
day!  Mr.  Conger  met  us  at  Ta  Ku,  in  a  steam  launch; 
with  our  glass  we  saw  the  flag  telling  us  of  his  coming 
long  before  we  could  see  him,  but  we  waved  and  waved 
our  welcome.  Our  baggage  was  loaded  on  the  launch 
and  we  were  soon  over  the  troublesome  bar.  Mr.  Con- 
ger had  a  special  car  waiting,  and  Wang  had  a  good 
breakfast  for  us.  The  Legation  staff,  chairs,  carts,  and 
ponies  were  at  the  station.  When  we  reached  our  Le- 
gation, fireworks,  given  by  our  servants,  with  much  ado 
greeted  us.     The  servants  were  all  dressed  in  their  best 


9o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

and  were  standing  inside  of  the  gate  to  give  us  welcome. 
Our  Legation  home  is  in  perfect  order.  How  delightful 
everything  looks!  I  go  from  room  to  room  rejoicing, 
and  our  beautiful  Chinese  things  speak  to  me.  We  give 
thanks  with  full  hearts  that  our  family  is  together  again, 
safe  and  well. 

May  i.  Mr.  Conger  has  had  much  anxiety  and  work 
in  behalf  of  missionaries  who  have  been  molested  for 
more  than  a  year  by  Chinese  in  the  interior.  At  first 
these  troublesome  Chinese  were  not  called  Boxers;  they 
were  looked  upon  simply  as  anti-foreign  people  who 
wished  to  get  rid  of  the  troublesome  element  in  their 
midst.  This  week  the  Boxer  work  grows  darker  and 
darker.  It  comes  nearer  and  nearer  and  is  now  within 
Peking. 

May  25.  There  is  much  uneasiness  among  the  for- 
eigners; threatening  words  have  come  to  us. 

May  26.  The  foreign  Ministers  of  the  different  Le- 
gations meet  and  consult  over  these  unheard-of  condi- 
tions. They  request,  urge,  coax,  and  threaten  the  Yamen 
to  protect  the  foreigners.  These  people  are  always  slow 
to  act;  they  now  seem  unusually  slow. 

May  28.  No  train  from  Tientsin.  Two  railroad 
bridges  are  destroyed  on  a  branch  road.  The  village 
of  Fengtai  is  burned.  Station,  cars,  shops,  Empress 
Dowager's  private  car,  all  burned!  There  is  much  ex- 
citement among  all  foreigners.  The  Ministers  are  work- 
ing individually  for  their  countrymen  and  unitedly  for 
all.  Most  of  them  have  cabled  for  Legation  guards. 
The  foreigners  are  all  closely  united  and  stand  by  one 
another.  Telegrams,  letters,  messages,  and  people  are 
constantly  coming  to  Mr.   Conger.    All  foreigners  are 


NEGOTIATING  WITH  THE  YAMEN    91 

anxious.  The  Boxers  are  cruel,  frenzied!  Many  peo- 
ple have  been  in  this  morning,  and  many  urgent  notes 
have  been  received.  It  keeps  Mr.  Conger  busy.  He 
is  a  calm,  faithful  worker  at  his  post.  The  girls  and  I 
are  grateful  that  we  are  here  with  him. 

May  29.  Anxiety  is  running  still  higher.  Things 
look  threatening.  Letters,  notes,  telegrams,  and  people 
are  coming  to  Mr.  Conger  in  increasing  numbers.  The 
Ministers  come  together  in  consultation,  and  strive  to 
decide  upon  united  plans  of  action.  They  visit  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen  and  write  letters  earnestly  and  beseechingly 
asking  aid  of  the  Government  in  suppressing  these  out- 
rages. What  will  the  outcome  be  ?  The  foreign  Ministers 
have  been  asking  permission  of  the  Chinese  Government 
to  let  them  bring  their  own  guards  to  the  Legation,  as  it 
seemed  impossible  for  their  Government  to  protect  the 
foreigners.  The  Yamen  positively  refused  to  grant  this 
request. 

May  30.  To-day  the  Ministers  went  to  the  Yamen 
and  after  urging  the  matter  without  favorable  results 
said,  "We  will  give  you  until  six  o'clock  to-morrow  morn- 
ing for  a  favorable  answer,  and  if  it  does  not  come,  we 
will  bring  the  guards  anyway."  These  Ministers  were 
very  sure  of  their  point,  for  none  of  them  wish  to  get  into 
war  with  China.  Our  surroundings  do  not  warrant  it; 
we  have  been  in  no  condition  to  bring  the  situation  to  a 
climax,  nor  are  we  now;  but  there  are  many  warships 
at  Ta  Ku.  The  officials  of  the  Yamen  protested:  "We 
cannot  give  an  answer  under  three  days.  It  would  take 
one  day  to  send  the  request  to  the  Summer  Palace;  one 
day  for  the  Court  to  reply;  another  to  send  Their  Ma- 
jesties' reply  to  the  foreign  Ministers."     The  Ministers 


92  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

still  insisted  that  they  must  have  the  answer  at  six  o'clock 
to-morrow  morning. 

The  Ministers  who  visited  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  were 
Sir  Claude  MacDonald,  British;  Mr.  Pechon,  French; 
Mr.  de  Giers,  Russian;  and  Mr.  Conger,  American. 

May  31.  At  two  o'clock  this  morning  word  was  sent 
to  Sir  Claude  from  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  that  the  for- 
eign guards  could  come  into  the  city.  By  six  o'clock  the 
papers  had  gone  the  rounds  of  all  the  Ministers  who  had 
asked  for  guards.  It  had  been  decided  by  the  Ministers 
that  all  the  guards  should  come  together.  Telegrams 
were  sent  to  Tientsin  and  arrangements  made  for  them  to 
come  at  once.  As  there  had  been  trouble  just  inside  the 
gate  in  coming  from  the  station,  Mr.  Conger  telegraphed 
to  Admiral  Kempff  to  be  prepared  to  meet  possible  oppo- 
sition. Telegram  came,  "Leave  on  special  train,  three 
hundred  and  fifty  strong." 

These  are  stirring  times.  Mr.  Conger's  staff  met  the 
guards  at  the  station  five  miles  away.  Fifty-six  Ameri- 
can marines,  with  one  rapid-firing  gun,  started  in  ahead, 
closely  followed  by  the  Russians.  Our  marines  had  left 
all  baggage  on  the  flagship  Newark,  so  as  to  be  free  to 
fight  if  necessary.  They  arrived  about  eight  o'clock  in 
the  evening.  Arrangements  had  been  made  with  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen  to  keep  the  gates  of  the  city  open. 
Our  guards  occupy  a  Russian  compound  adjoining  our 
Legation,  and  a  gateway  is  cut  through  the  wall  into  the 
Legation.  The  guards  number  as  follows:  British, 
seventy-five;  French,  seventy-five;  Japanese,  forty; 
American,  fifty-six;  Russian,  seventy-five;  Italian,  forty; 
total,  three  hundred  and  sixty-one.  The  Germans  and 
Austrians  are  to  come  later.     There  were  no  demon- 


NATIVE   CHRISTIAN   CONVERTS      93 

strations  of  pleasure  or  displeasure  along  the  way  from 
the  station  to  the  Legations. 

It  seems  to  be  the  universal  thought  among  foreign- 
ers that  the  "moral  effect"  upon  these  enraged  Chinese 
people  of  having  these  troops  here  will  be  good.  We  are 
delighted  to  have  these  fifty-six  American  marines  and 
naval  officers  with  us.  Among  the  officers  are  Captain 
McCalla,  Captain  Myers,  Captain  Hall,  and  Doctor 
Lippet. 

June  1.  Everything  seems  more  quiet  in  the  city, 
but  bands  of  Boxers  are  reported  to  be  active  in  the 
interior.  Missionaries  are  still  writing  their  suggestions 
and  making  earnest  requests  and  appeals.  They  urge 
Mr.  Conger  to  make  the  Chinese  officials  act  more  quickly 
and  protect  them  and  the  native  converts.  In  their  dis- 
tress they  forget  that  they  have  been  here  many  years 
and  know  that  the  Chinese  mode  of  thought  and  action  is 
not  easily  nor  rapidly  changed.  And,  too,  our  Govern- 
ment cannot  say  what  the  Chinese  Government  shall  or 
shall  not  do  with  its  own  people.  The  Chinese  converts  to 
Christianity  are  Chinese  subjects,  and  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment has  the  right  to  protect  or  punish  them  according 
to  its  law,  and  they  do  not  come  under  the  right  or  power 
of  other  Governments. 

June  2.  Not  a  night  passes  but  from  one  to  three 
telegrams  come  to  Mr.  Conger.  Distressing  rumors  of 
fire  and  outrages  come  from  small  villages.  The  attacks 
are  principally  against  native  Christian  converts,  as  they 
have  foreign  ideas.  We  are  anxious  for  the  missionaries. 
It  seems  advisable  for  them  to  flee  to  more  promising 
places  of  safety,  but  they  are  not  willing  to  leave  their 
missions  to  be  burned  and  their  converts  to  be  murdered. 


94  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

The  question  is,  how  can  they  serve  the  Christ-cause  best  ? 
They  are  devoted,  conscientious  workers.  The  German 
and  Austrian  troops  have  arrived. 

June  3.  A  quiet  day  in  Peking,  but  there  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  troublesome  reports  from  other  quarters. 
Telegrams  for  help  keep  coming.  Rumors  upon  rumors 
come  in.  All  foreign  nations  stand  together  here. 
Men  of  all  classes  are  showing  their  strength  of  character. 
Mr.  Conger  is  calm,  acts  cautiously,  and  seems  to  act 
wisely.  He  bears  up  bravely  under  the  almost  number- 
less pressures  that  are  constantly  brought  upon  him.  He 
must  not  make  mistakes.  The  Good  Father  will  help 
and  sustain  him. 

June  4..  Telegraph  wire  cut  on  railroad.  Other  line 
not  disturbed.  Many  servants  are  leaving,  Ours  as 
yet  stand  faithfully  by  us. 

June  6.  Reports  come  in  from  Tungchow  and  Paoting 
Fu  of  great  danger.  Destruction  of  property  has  begun 
in  earnest.  Laura  and  Mary  will  go  to  Japan  on  the 
first  train  to  Tientsin.  The  Department  of  State  cabled 
for  information  about  missionaries  at  Paoting  Fu.  As 
yet  all  are  safe. 

June  7.  The  foreign  Ministers  keep  in  close  touch 
with  one  another,  and  carefully  consider  all  new  rumors 
and  developments.  The  Postal  Telegraph  wire  is  not 
yet  cut.  Excitement  seems  to  increase  outside.  All  is 
quiet  in  the  city. 

Mr.  Conger  visits  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  once  or  twice 
each  day,  as  new,  urgent  matters  come  up.  By  getting 
an  interview  with  them  daily,  he  forms  opinions  of  the 
situation  at  the  head  of  the  Chinese  Government.  It 
seems  that  the  Chinese  officials  are  not  united  in  their 


■4-  4-  •$  >h  &  &  % 


MAP 

OF 

PEKING 

I.     Native  Citv. 
I.     Tartar  City. 

III.  Imperial  Citv. 

IV.  Forbidden  City. 

Shakupmen.      (\Vhcr 

WatoGatc     (Here 
Lpjatioc  quarters. 

M 

troops  entered  the  Legation.) 

11 

Sttmplt. 

,!,"."i?w ',;' 

Presbyterian  Mission 

on. 

i  S 

„.l.    ,,l    II,.,.. 

i!  1,  „i  A,:n, ,, 

HELP   FOR   MISSIONARIES  95 

opinions.  It  also  seems  that  the  Government  is  afraid 
of  the  Boxers.  The  army,  too,  seems  to  be  afraid  of 
them.  What  can  there  be  in  the  future  for  China,  or  for 
the  foreigners  who  have  the  promise  of  her  protection? 
From  many  quarters  missionaries  are  asking  Mr.  Conger 
for  guards.  It  does  not  seem  wise  to  divide  fifty-six 
marines  into  little  squads  and  widely  separate  them.  Mr. 
Conger  has  cordially  invited  one  and  all  of  the  mission- 
aries to  come  to  the  Legation  and  have  the  same  protection 
that  we  have.  Dr.  A.,  a  brave  missionary,  came  to-day 
asking  for  a  guard  to  go  across  the  country  to  rescue  and 
bring  to  Peking  the  Tungchow  missionaries.  Mr.  Conger 
thought  it  would  only  enrage  the  Boxers  to  see  the  foreign 
soldiers.  He  feared  that  the  small  guard  would  be  in 
danger  of  being  overcome  and  that  the  missionaries  would 
be  captured.  This  would  give  courage  to  the  Boxers, 
and  would  make  them  more  troublesome.  It  would 
weaken  the  guard  here ;  and,  too,  if  he  did  this  for  Tung- 
chow, other  missions  could  ask  the  same.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  give  to  all.  There  seem  to  be  many  diffi- 
culties that  make  it  impracticable  to  divide  our  small 
Legation  guard.  Mr.  Conger  thought  if  they  would 
come  quietly  to  the  city  there  might  be  less  trouble.  Dr. 
A.,  with  carts,  started  after  them.  Our  house  is  filling 
up.     It  is  not  safe  to  remain  outside  longer. 

June  8.  Railroads  still  cut  off.  No  trains  to  or 
from  Tientsin.  Rumors  are  no  better.  All  sorts  of 
rumors  are  sent  out  to  intimidate.  Some  are  true,  more 
are  false. 

Tungchow  people  arrived  safely  in  the  Methodist 
mission.  They  left  their  mission  and  their  belongings  at 
Tungchow  in  the  care  of  Chinese.      Many  are  arriving 


96  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

from  other  places.  There  is  much  anxiety  about  Paoting 
Fu  missionaries.  All  foreigners  are  leaving  their  com- 
pounds and  missions  and  going  to  the  Legations  and  to 
the  Methodist  mission.  The  Methodist  mission  com- 
pound is  the  largest,  nearest,  and  best  fortified  of  all, 
hence  is  chosen,  if  necessary,  for  a  refuge  for  all  the 
missionaries.  The  Roman  Catholics  are  still  at  Nantang 
and  Peitang.  A  small  French  guard  is  at  each  place. 
They  did  not  leave  Nantang  as  reported. 

Mr.  Conger  sent  a  guard  of  ten  to  the  Methodist 
mission.  Ten  more  people  came  to  us  to-day.  We 
welcome  them.  I  have  had  our  storeroom  filled  with 
extras  —  much  flour,  corn  meal,  beans,  rice,  and  sugar; 
besides  chickens  and  other  supplies.  We  may  need  all 
with  our  increasing  family.  We  filled  our  coal  bin  and 
bought  large  kangs  holding  great  quantities  of  water. 
It  now  looks  as  though  Peking  might  see  serious  trouble. 
Chinese  soldiers  are  stationed  on  the  wall  over  the  gate- 
ways. The  Empress  Dowager  issues  edicts  but  they  do 
no  good.  Days  of  emergencies  are  being  promised  to  us; 
the  outlook  is  becoming  darker  and  darker.  We  have 
tried  to  fill  our  lamps  that  they  may  be  ready  in  the  hour 
of  need. 

June  g.  Another  quiet  night.  All  are  safe  as  far 
as  heard  from.  Our  Captain  Hall,  with  ten  more  Ameri- 
can marines,  went  to  join  the  other  guards  at  the  Meth- 
odist mission.  The  British  sent  to  the  Methodist  mission 
ten  guns  and  two  men,  as  there  were  people  there  from 
the  London  mission  to  be  protected.  They  are  now 
quite  well  fortified,  as  they  have  over  fifty  rifles. 

No  report  from  Paoting  Fu.  People  are  anxious 
about  their  friends,  and  so  are  we.     A  meeting  of  all 


COMMUNICATION  CUT  OFF         97 

foreign  Ministers  to-day.  No  trains  yet.  Mail  came 
overland.  The  Postal  Telegraph  line  is  all  right.  Mr. 
Conger  cabled  to  the  State  Department  asking  for  more 
guards.  Lady  MacDonald  called  to-day.  She  was  calm, 
but  was  anxious  to  get  her  children  to  Japan.  These 
are  trying  days  for  the  Ministers  and  they  work  watch- 
fully, continuously,  diligently.  Mr.  Conger  just  came  in 
and  said,  "I  never  saw  such  order  among  the  Chinese 
soldiers  as  I  saw  to-night.  They  were  up  in  line  like 
soldiers,  guarding  the  streets."  The  Emperor,  Empress 
Dowager,  and  their  Court,  moved  back  from  the  Summer 
Palace  to  the  Forbidden  City  to-day.  To  all  appearances, 
order  and  quiet  attended  their  coming. 

June  10.  No  attack.  We  are  told  that  the  Chinese 
generally,  if  not  always,  fight  in  daylight.  Word  has 
come  that  nine  hundred  soldiers,  of  different  nation- 
alities, Admiral  Seymour  in  command,  have  left  Tientsin 
for  Peking,  with  force  enough  to  repair  the  railroad. 
There  was  no  permission  from  here  to  let  them  come; 
the  Viceroy  at  Tientsin  granted  it.  It  has  been  rather 
an  anxious,  exciting  day.  Rumor  says  that  four  changes 
have  been  made  in  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen.  Prince  Ch'ing 
is  no  longer  President. 

We  have  just  heard  that  our  troops  are  to  reach  the 
railroad  station  at  ten  o'clock  to-night.  Postal  Tele- 
graph wires  are  cut.  There  is  no  communication  with 
the  outer  world,  except  by  Chinese  couriers,  and  these  are 
not  always  to  be  relied  upon.  We  do  not  know  what 
reports  go  from  here,  nor  the  truth  of  what  the  couriers 
bring  us.  All  arrangements  at  the  Legations  are  made  to 
meet  the  guards  at  the  station  at  four  o'c^ck  to-morrow 
morning  and  escort  them  into  the  city.    Each  Legation 


98  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

is  sending  from  twenty  to  forty  carts.  The  new  summer 
British  Legation  at  Western  Hills  was  burned  to-day. 

June  ii.  The  escorts  started  for  the  station  at  four 
o'clock  to  meet  the  guards.  They  formed  a  long  cart 
procession  and  had  a  large  foreign  guard  to  protect 
them.  The  expected  soldiers  were  not  there  and  there 
was  no  word  from  them.  All  returned.  Efforts  were 
made  all  day  to  locate  our  coming  troops.  There  may 
be  much  railroad  to  repair.  Where  can  the  nine  hundred 
be  ?  Mr.  Conger  at  all  times  shows  good  cheer  and  offers 
a  helping  hand  wherever  he  can.  He  is  besieged  on  all 
sides;  but  he  acts  quickly  and  fearlessly.  He  does  not 
accept  all  the  dreadful  rumors  as  facts.  In  his  reasoning 
way  he  at  once  shows  many  of  them  to  be  false.  If  men 
in  their  extreme  anxiety  think  he  should  do  more  for  them 
and  say  unkind  things,  he  does  not  let  it  hurt  him,  and 
replies  kindly  but  firmly.  His  army  life  enables  him  to 
be  of  great  assistance  to  Captain  Myers.  Air.  Conger 
fears  that  great  suffering  is  befalling  the  foreigners  in  the 
interior.  Our  greatest  hope  is  that  they  will  flee  for  the 
coast  before  it  is  too  late. 

We  should  like  to  know  where  our  troops  are  and 
what  the  outer  world  is  doing.  It  seems  that  day  by  day 
we  are  narrowed  into  closer  quarters;  little  by  little 
connection  with  the  world  beyond  Peking  has  been  cut 
off.  Now  we  stand  isolated;  both  telegraph  lines  are 
gone;  the  railroad  is  gone.  No  Legation  mail  pouch; 
there  is  but  little  mail.,  and  that  is  brought  by  couriers. 

An  attache  of  the  Japanese  Legation  was  stoned  on 
his  way  to  the  station  and  killed.  Flags  of  all  Legations 
are  flying  at  half-mast.  Two  members  of  the  Tsung  Li 
Yamen  came  and  asked  Mr.  Conger  to  stop  his  troops 


TUNGCHOW  MISSIONS   BURNED     99 

and  not  let  them  enter  the  city.  They  begged  the  Min- 
isters to  turn  their  troops  back.  They  said  it  would  be 
much  easier  for  Prince  Ch'ing.  Mr.  Conger  said,  "No; 
we  cannot  turn  them  back.  They  must  come  to  protect 
our  people.  You  fail  to  do  it.  We  are  your  friends, 
and  are  going  to  help  you  to  protect  your  people.  We 
ask  nothing  but  protection."  One  of  these  officials  said, 
"Other  nations  do  not  allow  troops  thus  to  enter  their 
domains." 

The  questions  were  asked,  "When  your  people  are 
representing  you  in  foreign  countries  are  they  stoned  on 
their  way  to  the  station,  insulted  and  struck  on  the  streets  ? 
Is  their  property  burned?"     The  reply  was,  "No." 

Later,  our  first  mafoo  was  sent  to  the  station  to  see 
if  any  word  could  be  learned  about  the  coming  troops. 
Chinese  soldiers  were  guarding  the  gates,  and  on  his 
return  the  gate  was  closed  against  him.  He  hastened 
to  another  gate  and  reached  the  Legation  unharmed. 
Word  comes  that  Prince  Ch'ing  his  been  arrested  by  his 
Government.  Suspicious  letters  were  intercepted.  There 
seems  to  be  serious  trouble  at  the  Palace. 

Missions  at  Tungchow  are  burned,  college  and  all. 
The  libraries  and  accumulations  of  years  are  swept  away. 
We  learn  that  our  mafoo  dresses  like  a  poor  coolie  and 
rides  a  donkey  when  he  goes  out  into  the  streets. 

June  12.  An  anxious  night.  Many  foreigners  are 
fleeing  for  safety  to  the  Legations,  to  the  Methodist 
mission,  the  Catholic  Peitang  and  Nantang.  Captain 
Myers  keeps  watch  all  the  night  through.  Guards  watch 
day  and  night  on  Legation  Street,  Wall  Street,  and  from 
the  top  of  the  city  wall.  There  was  much  noise  in  the 
Native  City  last  night.     Cannons  were  fired  at  intervals. 


ioo  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

It  seems  unusually  quiet  to-day,  nevertheless  we  all  keep 
within  the  Legation  walls.  There  are  now  eighteen  in 
our  family.  Our  house  is  full,  still  there  is  always  room 
for  more,  if  necessary.  A  courier  came  in  at  noon.  He 
had  found  no  trace  of  our  coming  troops.  Where  are 
they?  How  we  look  for  their  coming!  The  twenty 
carts  are  still  held  for  them  at  the  gates. 

Four  members  of  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  called  on  the 
foreign  Ministers  to-day.  The  Yamen  requested  that 
the  soldiers  be  kept  in  the  Legation  compounds  and  not 
in  the  streets.  They  tried  to  persuade  the  Ministers 
that  there  is  no  need  for  these  extra  troops.  All  is  quiet 
in  the  city,  but  we  are  anxious  to  hear  from  our  nine 
hundred  soldiers.  Many  messengers  have  been  sent  out 
and  have  returned  without  tidings. 

I  have  bought  more  supplies ;  flour,  rice,  meal,  beans, 
and  coal.     It  seems  that  we  may  have  need  of  them. 

I  am  writing  a  very  long  letter,  and  yet  so  little! 
What  I  have  written  will,  however,  give  you  some  idea  of 
our  days  in  this  troubled  atmosphere.  I  am  going  to  send 
this  letter  on  its  long  journey,  hoping  that  it  may  reach 
you.  We  think  lovingly  of  the  dear  home  folks.  We 
are  of  good  cheer  and  working  our  best. 

June  12,  continued.  Good  news  from  our  coming 
troops;  they  are  safe,  sixteen  hundred  strong,  and  "are 
coming  as  fast  as  they  can  repair  the  railroad."  We  do 
not  know  just  when  to  expect  them.  We  do  not  anticipate 
any  attack  upon  the  Legations,  nor  upon  any  of  us  so 
long  as  we  remain  within  our  walls. 

Later.  Another  threatened  attack  by  Boxers  is  just 
over.  We  are  safe!  I  cannot  write  details.  How  dare 
China  touch  the  Legations? 


THE  LEGATIONS  THREATENED     101 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
From  June  13  to  July  20,  igoo. 

CLOUDS  darken.  Last  night  the  Boxers  kept  the 
gates  open  between  the  Native  City  and  this  city  and 
entered  in  force.  Our  foreign  guards  cleared  Legation 
Street  and  Wall  Street,  and  stationed  their  guns  and  men 
to  guard  this  locality.  The  Boxers  left  for  other  parts  of 
the  city,  and  set  fire  to  missions  and  foreign  property.  It 
is  reported  that  they  have  killed  hundreds  of  native 
Christians. 

Captain  Myers  is  a  fine  officer,  calm  and  active.  The 
guns  are  in  the  streets,  and  men  also.  All  the  marines 
and  our  Legation  men  watched  the  night  through.  The 
majority  of  the  servants  are  acting  bravely.  The  first 
and  second  mafoos  took  their  beds  and  fled  last  night,  but 
came  back  this  morning  and  attended  to  the  horses. 
Wang,  our  first  boy,  is  calm  in  his  constant  doing.  This 
morning  so  many  Chinese  were  filling  the  streets  and 
pressing  forward  that  we  were  told  to  pack  a  few  things 
and  be  ready  to  go  across  the  street  to  the  Russian  Lega- 
tion, if  a  fight  should  come  upon  us.  Our  Legation  is 
small  and  not  so  securely  fortified  as  are  the  Russian  and 
the  British.  There  are  twenty-nine  women  and  children 
in  our  compound.  We  are  packed  to  go,  but  are  sure, 
very  sure,  that  we  shall  not  have  even  a  slight  attack. 
Mr.  Conger  and  Mr.  Cheshire  went  fearlessly  to  the  Chi- 
nese officers  at  the  end  of  our  guard  in  the  crowded  street 
and  had  a  talk  with  them.  Mr.  Conger  told  them  that  if 
they  would  keep  their  people  away  from  us  none  would 
be  harmed.     But  just  as  soon  as  they  pressed  down  the 


io2  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

streets  they  would  be  fired  upon  and  great  harm  would 
come  to  them.  He  said,  "All  we  desire  is  safety  and  if 
the  Chinese  Government  cannot  protect  us,  we  foreigners 
must  protect  ourselves." 

They  replied,  "We  will  do  our  best." 

We  believe  that  these  officers  will  do  their  best.  The 
Chinese  Government  surely  does  not  wish  to  get  into 
trouble  with  other  nations;  if  the  Legations  are  touched, 
it  means  war.  Now,  more  than  ever  before,  it  looks 
as  though  the  Chinese  Government  is  to  meet  its  doom 
through  its  own  people.  A  change  of  dynasty  seems  to 
be  coming  fast. 

This  morning  more  large  fires  are  kindled.  These 
Boxers  burn  foreign  property,  and  all  property  of  Chi- 
nese who  have  anything  to  do  with  foreigners.  They 
even  destroy  the  Chinese  who  have  any  sympathy  with 
foreigners. 

We  hope  to  see  our  troops  to-day.  The  twenty  carts 
have  fled.  We  could  not  hold  them  longer,  and  our  ma- 
rines must  come  from  the  stations  unguarded  and  un- 
aided. Mr.  Conger  says  that  we  shall  have  a  guard  on  the 
wall  to  help  open  the  gates  for  them. 

June  18.  Many  strange  and  trying  things  are  coming 
into  our  experience.  The  Boxers  have  burned  all  the 
mission  buildings,  and  the  destruction  of  fives  and  property 
is  fearful.  They  fired  the  large  Catholic  mission,  Nan- 
tang,  with  its  cathedral  built  in  1600.  This  mission 
cared  for  our  smallpox  patients  a  year  ago.  The  Catholics 
have  a  still  larger  mission,  the  Peitang,  and  a  small  one  in 
the  East  City.  The  buildings  of  this  smaller  one  were 
first  burned.  The  French  Minister  tried  to  guard  both 
the  Nantang  and  the  Peitang,  but  he  found  that  he  was 


CHINESE  CHRISTIAN   REFUGEES     103 

weakening  his  force  by  dividing  his  troops;  so  the  guards 
were  united  and  sent  to  the  Peitang,  thus  leaving  the 
Nantang  unprotected.     He  could  do  no  more. 

The  Nantang  was  fired,  and  the  devilish  work  done 
there  I  have  no  desire  to  try  to  describe.  Twenty  Russians 
and  ten  American  marines,  with  Mr.  Pethick,  an  Ameri- 
can, and  others,  who  speak  the  Chinese  language,  went 
out  as  a  guard  to  rescue  the  people  at  the  Nantang.  The 
Boxers  fled  and  the  guards  worked.  Four  of  our  men 
brought  over  four  hundred  refugees  past  this  Legation. 
As  these  people  of  all  ages  and  conditions  in  life  —  many 
hungry,  burned,  wounded,  and  slashed  —  marched  by, 
it  was  a  pitiful  sight.  The  strongest  among  them  were 
carrying  the  aged  and  helpless.  They  were  taken  to  a 
large  compound  within  our  guarded  quarters  and  are  cared 
for  by  the  Legations.  Later,  the  Russians  came  in  with 
large  numbers,  and  still  later  our  six  men  came  with 
wounded  and  burned  refugees.  They  stopped  in  front 
of  the  American  Legation,  and  our  doctor  and  a  Russian 
doctor  cared  for  them.  They  were  in  a  sorrowful  plight. 
Such  fortitude  I  never  beheld,  as  these  people  manifested 
during  the  dressing  of  their  wounds.  No  shrinking, 
nor  cry  of  suffering  was  expressed.  Our  sincere  sympathy 
was  with  them.  Hearts  warm  into  one  great  love  in  times 
like  these.  In  the  afternoon  the  English  and  Germans 
sent  out  a  rescuing  guard,  and  they  brought  in  many. 
These  refugees  are  all  Chinese,  but  they  are  Christians, 
or  those  who  are  in  some  way  connected  with  foreigners. 

This  same  day  there  was  much  noise  in  the  Native 
City.  The  German  Minister  with  some  of  his  soldiers 
went  upon  the  wall  and  saw  ten  Boxers  going  through 
their  incantations  before  an  excited  crowd.     These  men 


io4  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

from  the  wall  fired  into  them,  killing  seven  Boxers.  Later 
some  of  the  men  from  the  Methodist  mission  went  to  the 
gate  and  asked  for  the  gate  keys.  The  gates  were  locked 
and  the  key  was  taken  to  Captain  Hall,  of  the  American 
guards  at  the  mission. 

That  night  there  was  a  terrific  din  in  the  Native  City. 
The  cry  was,  "Kill!  Kill!"  It  sounded  as  though  mad- 
ness itself  were  set  loose,  and  even  though  the  wall  was 
between  us  it  seemed  as  though  we  could  not  escape  the 
fury  of  these  enraged  people.  About  twelve  o'clock  all 
was  still,  and  we  wondered  what  would  follow.  There 
was  nothing  more  that  night,  but  "watch"  was  the  word; 
and  all  did  watch.  The  next  morning  large  fires  were 
kindled  in  the  Native  City.  Every  store  that  had  foreign 
goods  was  set  on  fire.  The  wind  was  blowing,  and  the 
fire  spread  over  the  very  best  and  most  thrifty  parts  of 
their  city.  Large  shops  and  many  of  China's  most  beau- 
tiful things  were  burned.  There  is  no  way  wnatever  for 
these  people  to  fight  fire.  They  have  to  let  it  burn  until 
there  is  no  more  fuel  to  feed  the  flames.  Mr.  Conger, 
with  guards,  took  us  upon  the  wall  to  see  the  burning 
city. 

Why  did  the  flames  devour  so  many  innocent  people, 
render  so  many  homeless,  moneyless,  and  cut  off  the  daily 
supplies  of  thousands  of  the  poor  coolie  class?  The  fire 
burned  all  day  and  spread  toward  the  west.  About 
eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  went  again  upon  the 
wall.  The  city  was  still  burning  to  the  west.  The  fire 
was  not  coming  toward  us,  nor  toward  any  of  the  Lega- 
tions, as  they  were  north  of  the  eastern  part  of  the 
burning  city.  The  fire  had  gone  north  to  the  Ch'ienmen, 
the  gate  through  which  we  pass  in  going  to  the  railroad 


IMPERIAL  GATE   BURNED  105 

station,  and  the  large  tower  building  over  the  Imperial 
gateway  was  burning.  It  made  an  appalling  sight. 
Any  misfortune  befalling  this  Imperial  gateway  is  a 
"very  bad  omen;  some  great  misfortune  is  coming  to  the 
Throne."     But  it  was  the  work  of  their  own  hands. 

My  thoughts  went  out  to  our  brave  men  who  are 
striving  to  come  to  our  rescue.  Without  doubt  they  could 
see  the  fire  and  the  burning  tower,  and  would  fear  for  our 
safety;  but  we  are  safe  and  we  still  feel  that  no  harm  will 
come  to  the  Legations;  that  the  Chinese  Government  will 
try  to  protect  us,  and  that  our  brave  men  are  worth  more 
in  a  battle  than  ten  thousand  Boxers.  The  Boxers  are 
afraid  of  firearms. 

We  have  been  fenced  in  a  little  more  and  a  little  more, 
until  now  we  do  not  go  outside  the  guarded  streets.  It 
is  difficult  to  get  Chinese  to  carry  a  message  to  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen,  and  Mr.  Conger  has  found  it  almost  impossible 
to  get  Chinese  messengers  to  carry  word  to  and  from  our 
coming  troops.  One  of  the  American  Legation  ice  coolies, 
an  ugly-looking  old  fellow,  said  that  he  would  go.  He  did 
go  twice,  and  now  he  is  off  again.  Poor  old  man,  where 
is  he  ?  He  should  have  been  in  yesterday.  Either  he  has 
been  captured  by  Boxers,  or  Captain  McCalla  is  keeping 
him  to  guide  the  troops  into  the  city. 

We  are  shut  in,  and  our  coming  troops,  who  started 
sixteen  hundred  strong  a  week  ago  last  Sunday,  must  now 
get  into  the  city  as  best  they  can.  Twice  last  week  mem- 
bers of  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  called  on  Mr.  Conger; 
both  times  they  came  to  ask  him  to  stop  the  coming  of  his 
troops  and  turn  them  back.  They  made  the  same  request 
of  the  other  Ministers.  A  most  positive  "No"  was  the 
answer  from  all.     Last  night  while  we  were  at  dinner 


106  LETTERS   FROM  CHINA 

Mr.  Conger  was  called  out  and  asked  if  he  would  see 
members  of  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen.  He  sent  word  that 
he  would.  Mr.  Cheshire,  Chinese  secretary  of  the  Lega- 
tion, and  a  guard  went  to  meet  them  and  to  escort  them 
through  our  fortified  city. 

About  ten  o'clock  this  evening  four  members  of  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen  entered  our  Legation  gate.  They  said 
that  at  five  o'clock  they  were  at  the  palace  and  that  the 
Emperor  and  the  Empress  Dowager  wished  them  to  come 
to  the  American  Legation,  as  it  was  friendly  to  China,  and 
to  say  that  they  deeply  regret  what  has  happened  through 
the  fires  and  other  destructive  measures.  They  promised 
that  the  disturbances  should  stop.  Mr.  Conger  told 
them  that  they  were  repeating  the  same  old  story.  They 
do  not  stop  it.  Their  people  have  been  murdering  our 
people,  destroying  and  burning  property,  and  danger 
threatens  everywhere.  If  our  troops  had  not  been  here, 
the  Legation  would  have  been  sacrificed.  They  asked 
and  urged  that  the  coming  troops  go  into  camp  outside 
the  city  gates.  Mr.  Conger  most  positively  said,  "No; 
they  will  come  to  the  Legation,  and  if  they  are  not  enough, 
plenty  more  will  come." 

They  replied,  "We  know  the  foreign  soldiers  are  far 
better  than  ours." 

Mr.  Conger  said,  "All  we  desire  is  peace,  protection, 
and  a  harmonious  relation  with  your  people.  You 
do  not  give  it  to  us  and  we  foreign  nations  are  obliged  to 
call  upon  our  countries  for  the  protection  that  you  should 
give.  We  must  bring  our  soldiers  to  our  Legations.  Your 
own  people  are  so  afraid  of  the  Boxers  that  it  is  with  diffi- 
culty that  we  can  send  a  messenger,  even  to  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen." 


OFFICIAL  GOOD   PROMISES       107 

Things  have  gone  from  bad  to  worse  and  the  Chinese 
do  not  stop  the  fiendish  work  of  the  Boxers.  How  can 
the  Ministers  trust  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen,  or  believe  one  of 
their  promises?  While  the  Chinese  officials  were  here, 
the  guards  fired  some  volleys  which  made  the  members 
of  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  quake.  I  am  glad  they  came, 
for  it  shows  them  the  situation  of  things  and  the  feeling  of 
the  American  Minister.  Mr.  Conger  assured  them  that 
his  Government  wished  China  no  harm,  and  would  not 
harm  one  of  her  people  except  in  self-defence  or  protec- 
tion. He  told  them  they  could  see  that  all  foreign  prop- 
erty not  protected  by  foreign  troops  had  been  destroyed 
and  people  persecuted  and  cruelly  killed.  Evidently 
the  Government  does  not  know  how  to  act.  These 
officials  renewed  their  good  promises  and  were  safely 
escorted  out  of  our  "guarded  city." 

All  the  small  buildings  west  of  the  Russian  Legation 
have  been  torn  down,  and  everything  that  will  burn  has 
been  hauled  away  and  dumped  into  the  canal;  the  brick 
and  stones  are  built  into  fortifications  across  Legation 
Street  and  the  marines  are  at  work  strengthening  their 
breast- works.  We  believe  that  this  very  work  has  already 
saved  much  suffering.  The  Boxers  dare  not  approach 
these  barricades. 

The  first  rain  for  weeks  has  fallen  to-day.  No  word 
from  our  coming  troops  as  yet.  Word  comes  —  rumor 
—  that  the  telegraph  wires  are  down  between  Tientsin 
and  Shanghai.  But  all  the  port  cities  can  help  them- 
selves; there  is  a  way  out.  Tientsin  has  been  greatly 
threatened.  The  Native  City  there  is  alive  with  Boxers. 
We  cannot  often  hear  how  they  are  prospering  in  Tien- 
tsin, or  elsewhere.     Our  position  is  now  as  though  we 


io8  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

were  on  board  ship  in  unknown  seas  and  battling  with  a 
terrific  storm. 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
July  7,  igoo. 

WHAT  can  I  write?  What  a  prolonged,  dreadful 
dream!  Who  can  tell  it?  It  cannot  be  told,  nor  even 
imagined,  but  I  will  try  to  write  something  of  our  ex- 
periences. We  kept  getting  into  closer  and  closer 
quarters;  the  darkness  thickened;  still  we  kept  hoping, 
looking,  praying  for  our  coming  troops. 

On  the  afternoon  of  June  nineteenth  a  letter  from  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen  came  to  Mr.  Conger.  Mr.  Cheshire 
read  it,  as  it  was  in  Chinese.  He  arose  at  once  and  said 
to  Mr.  Conger,  "Let  us  go  to  the  office."  In  a  few 
minutes  I  saw  Mr.  Conger  hasten  out  of  the  Legation. 
Later,  I  saw  Mr.  Cheshire,  and  he  read  to  me  the  message 
which  had  been  sent  by  the  Yamen.  The  following  is 
its  substance: 

"  We  learn  that  foreign  troops  are  to  fire  upon  our  forts  near 
Tientsin,  hence  we  break  off  all  diplomatic  relations  with  your 
Government  and  ask  you  to  leave  Peking  in  twenty-four  hours. 
No  further  protection  will  be  given  by  us." 

Every  Minister  had  received  the  same  message,  and 
all  hastened  to  the  Dean  to  hold  a  diplomatic  meeting. 
It  was  out  of  the  question  to  go ;  to  leave  our  fortifications 
here  and  go  across  the  country  was  sure  death.  A  message 
was  sent  to  the  Yamen,  "  Impossible  to  leave  in  that 
time,"  etc.,  etc.  The  Ministers  requested  an  audience 
with  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen.  No  reply  came  that  night. 
They  wished  to  go  to  the  Yamen  the  following  morning 
at  nine  o'clock.     Still  no  reply.    The  German  Minister 


BARON  VON  KETTELER  109 

decided  to  go  alone,  as  he  had  other  business  with  the 
Yamen.  The  others  thought  best  to  wait  for  the  reply. 
He  started  with  his  interpreter,  two  mounted  mafoos,  and 
two  chairs.  They  had  not  gone  more  than  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  before  they  were  attacked.  One  mafoo  rushed 
back  to  the  German  Legation;  the  other  went  to  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen.  The  interpreter  was  badly  wounded 
and  was  taken  into  the  Methodist  mission.  He  is  still 
alive.  The  Minister,  Baron  Von  Ketteler,  was  shot 
through  the  head.  Word  was  sent  at  once  to  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen,  and  they  found  only  the  two  chairs,  badly 
crushed. 

It  devolved  upon  me  to  bear  the  word  to  Baron  Von 
Ketteler's  American  wife.  While  I  was  with  her  the 
order  came  to  go  at  once  to  the  British  Legation.  I 
helped  her  to  pack  a  few  things  and  we  went  together. 
Lady  MacDonald  took  her  in  charge.  I  returned  to  the 
American  Legation  at  about  three  o'clock  and  found  that 
our  people  were  moving  to  the  British  Legation.  Every- 
body was  busy,  busy.  The  hour  for  immediate  action 
had  come.  A  missionary  from  the  Methodist  mission 
came  to  Mr.  Conger  and  said,  "The  order  has  come  for 
us  to  go  at  once  to  the  British  Legation ;  what  shall  I  do 
with  our  Chinese  Christians?"  Mr.  Conger  replied, 
"  Bring  them.  I  do  not  know  how  they  will  be  fed,  but 
it  is  sure  death  to  them  if  they  are  left  behind.  Bring 
them." 

They  all  came  and  are  here. 

The  Chinese  were  taken  to  the  Fu  where  there  were 
other  Christian  refugees.  The  foreign  guards  have  ever 
since  been  holding  the  cross  streets,  Legation  Street,  and 
Wall  Street,  and  protecting  the  Legations  on  these  streets. 


no  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

The  Austrian,  Dutch,  and  Belgian  Legations  have  been 
burned,  also  the  Imperial  Customs,  and  all  the  missions,  in- 
cluding the  large  Methodist  mission.  After  we  came  here, 
the  Dutch  Legation,  west  of  the  American  Legation,  was 
set  on  fire  and  the  wind  took  the  flames  up  to  our  very 
walls,  even  burning  the  quarters  of  the  American  marines. 
Then  the  wind  changed  and  fanned  the  flames  away  from 
our  walls.  Think  of  it !  Our  Legation  was  saved !  An- 
other day,  fire  was  set  to  the  east  of  the  American  Legation 
and  again  the  flames  did  their  work  of  destruction  up  to  our 
walls,  and  then  went  out.  Again  the  Legation  was  saved ! 
All  rejoice,  because  the  situation  of  this  Legation  means 
much  to  all.  The  Germans,  with  other  helpers,  protect 
and  hold  the  wall  near  the  Hatamen  to  the  east;  and 
the  American  marines,  with  the  Russian,  hold  the  city 
wall  at  the  west  near  the  Ch'ienmen. 

The  Chinese  placed  a  big  gun  near  the  Ch'ienmen 
and  opened  fire  on  our  men.  If  the  wall  were  to  be  for- 
saken, the  Chinese  could  come  from  the  east  and  west  and 
throw  their  shells  right  into  the  British  Legation,  where  we 
have  come  for  safety.  The  position  on  the  wall  has  been 
most  dangerous.  Six  of  our  American  marines  have  been 
killed  and  twelve  wounded.  Among  these  is  our  efficient 
and  much  needed  Dr.  Lippet,  who  is  now  in  the  hospital. 
The  hospital  is  filling  up  too  full,  as  our  men  must  take 
more  and  more  risks  in  building  barricades  and  in  driv- 
ing back  the  enemy.  The  Chinese  are  building  strong 
breast-works,  and  are  fortifying  and  digging  to  plant 
mines.  Our  barricades  on  the  wall  have  to  be  built  at 
night.  The  Chinese  crept  closer  and  closer  upon  our 
men  behind  the  breast-works.  They  had  built  a  large 
barricade  about  forty  feet  from  ours,  and  had  dug  trenches 


DEFENCE  OF  THE  WALL  in 

and  built  barricades  around  the  bastion  up  to  the  very 
foot  of  our  large  barricade.  This  was  an  exceedingly 
dangerous  position  for  us.  It  was  too  near,  and  must  be 
taken,  or  the  wall  abandoned.  Plans  were  carefully 
made  and  the  time  was  set  for  the  attempt.  Mr.  Conger 
talked  with  the  Ministers  and  had  a  private  talk  with  Sir 
Claude  MacDonald,  the  Dean,  as  to  troops,  and  then  with 
our  Captain  Myers.  The  responsibility  was  great,  as  the 
undertaking  was  a  desperate  one,  but  its  awfulness  could 
not  make  our  men  falter. 

Sixty  marines  went  upon  the  wall  that  night  to  meet 
hundreds  of  Chinese.  Captain  Myers  said  to  his  men, 
"Men,  when  I  say  go,  every  one  of  you  go.  Remember 
there  are  three  hundred  women  and  children  whose  lives 
depend  upon  our  success  to-night.  If  we  succeed,  they 
live;  if  we  fail,  not  only  are  our  lives  sacrificed,  but  their 
lives  too.  Now  go!"  They  did  go;  no  obstacle  stayed 
them.  In  five  minutes  the  Chinese  were  routed  and  the 
grand  barricade  built  by  them  was  taken.  God  be 
praised!  But  our  grand  Captain  Myers  was  wounded. 
The  enemy  had  planted  old  spears  in  their  barricade  and 
Captain  Myers  ran  against  one,  making  a  bad  wound  on 
his  leg.  Not  all  came  out  as  well  as  did  Captain  Myers. 
One  Russian  and  two  Americans  were  killed. 

Mr.  Conger  counts  the  night  of  the  second  and  the 
morning  of  the  third  of  July,  as  the  most  anxious  and 
trying  period  of  his  whole  life.  He  felt  responsible  for 
the  attack  and  its  outcome.  He  keenly  realized  what 
depended  upon  those  sixty  men.  They  attacked  and 
routed  hundreds  of  Chinese  soldiers  from  behind  their 
heavy  fortifications.  Their  work  that  night  was  a  brave, 
a  mighty  one.    These  days  try  men  to  their  very  depths. 


ii2  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

The  Germans  have  lost  eight  of  their  men  and  several 
are  in  the  hospital.  They  were  compelled  to  abandon 
the  wall  at  the  east,  and  our  marines  and  the  Russians 
now  guard  both  ways.  The  Chinese  big  gun  to  the  west 
does  not  tire  in  a  direct  line  on  the  wall,  because  of  their 
own  men;  but  has  been  turned  on  the  Legations. 

Yesterday  I  went  to  the  American  Legation  with  Mr. 
Conger  to  make  a  more  thorough  search  in  my  boxes  for 
things  that  could  be  used  in  the  hospital  and  for  sand  bags, 
and  to  pack  away  some  things  that  were  standing  about. 
As  the  quarters  of  the  marines  had  been  burned,  our 
house  was  opened  to  them.  Many  things  that  could  be 
used  in  the  hospital,  or  made  into  sand  bags,  were  at  the 
first  need  turned  over  for  common  use.  The  bolts  of 
new  cotton,  cretonne,  sheeting,  pillow  casing,  new  table- 
cloths, napkins,  and  towels  which  I  had  just  brought  from 
America,  and  older  ones,  were  turned  into  the  common 
store.  Bed-nets,  pillows,  mattresses,  blankets,  spreads, 
springs,  draperies,  dishes  and  provisions,  dresses,  skirts, 
shoes,  clothing  of  all  kinds,  everything  useful  in  fact,  was 
turned  over  for  use  in  the  common  cause.  Others  did 
likewise.  Everything  had  to  be  done  to  make  up  even 
the  simple  requirements  of  a  hospital;  but  our  hearts 
and  hands,  with  a  will,  make  it  the  best  we  can. 

Mr.  Conger  helped  me  all  the  morning  and  our 
searching  paid  us.  We  went  about  the  Legation  to  see 
what  had  been  happening  since  I  left  it.  The  office 
building  is  in  a  deplorable  state.  Our  dear  home  and 
the  beautiful  trees  are  a  wreck.  The  dining-room  has 
been  turned  into  a  drying-room  for  the  hospital  laundry 
and  our  other  rooms  into  sleeping- rooms  for  the  marines. 
Our  kitchen  is  their  cook-room,  and  our  long  butler's 


FLAGS  ARE  TARGETS  113 

pantry  is  their  mess-room.  We  passed  out  of  our  com- 
pound and  returned  to  the  British  Legation.  Not  an 
hour  later  a  friend  came  in  and  said,  "Mrs.  Conger,  here 
are  the  pieces  of  a  shell  that  went  through  the  roof  and 
into  the  room  where  you  and  Mr.  Conger  were  working 
this  morning."  Pieces  of  shell  entered  five  rooms. 
Later,  our  flag  was  a  target;  a  shell  struck  the  roof  of  the 
gateway  building,  and  the  pole  and  flag  fell  through  the 
roof  together.  The  marines  snatched  the  flag  and  up  it 
went  again  in  the  top  of  a  tree  nearby.  The  British  flag 
has  been  shot  down  once,  but  it  was  soon  up  again. 
The  German  flag  fell  yesterday  and  the  firing  is  too  great 
for  them  to  hoist  it.  All  day  to-day  the  Chinese  have  had 
a  big  gun  turned  on  the  French  Legation,  but  with  little 
effect  as  yet.  As  a  usual  thing  they  shoot  too  high. 
There  is  firing  about  us  nearly  every  moment,  but  this 
we  do  not  mind.  It  is  the  terrific  attacks  that  make  us 
walk  the  floors. 

We  have  horse  and  mule  meat  to  eat.  With  the 
many  stores  that  we  had  on  hand  and  the  quantities  of 
flour,  meal,  rice,  beans,  etc.,  that  we  bought  in  case  of 
need,  we  have  been  able  to  get  along  very  nicely.  Our 
family  has  had  horse  meat  once  and  it  was  not  bad.  We 
also  had  mule  meat  once;  I  did  not  like  it  as  well  as  the 
horse  meat,  still  many  people  think  it  better.  Only 
one  of  our  horses  has  been  sacrificed  for  food;  we  are 
willing  to  let  them  go  and  have  turned  them  in  to  be  used 
when  needed. 

We  are  all  one  now  —  the  foreigners  here  are  one  peo- 
ple. Every  line  of  communication  with  the  outer  world 
has  been  cut  off  since  June  fourteenth.  We  have  looked 
and  looked  for  our  coming  troops,  but  have  not  for  an 


ii4  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

hour  during  day  and  night  ceased  our  work  of  fortifying. 
Between  the  Legations  there  were  abandoned  Chinese 
shops  in  which  were  many  things  that  we  could  use; 
there  were  also  three  foreign  stores  well  filled.  All  were 
emptied  into  the  British  Legation  and  used.  We  not 
only  found  thousands  and  thousands  of  yards  of  cloth 
for  sand  bags,  for  hospital  use,  and  for  clothing  for 
those  who  fled  from  their  houses  with  just  what  they 
were  wearing,  but  kitchen  utensils,  buckets  in  which  to 
carry  water  in  case  of  fires,  stores  of  coal,  two  thou- 
sand bushels  of  wheat,  seven  Chinese  grist-mills,  and  a 
small  flock  of  sheep. 

The  British  Legation  is  large,  about  seven  acres,  and 
has  excellent  water  in  abundance.  Sir  Claude  and  Lady 
MacDonald,  the  British  Minister  and  his  wife,  and  their 
Legation  helpers,  have  been  most  kind  in  their  untir- 
ing work  for  the  comfort  of  all  these  people  who  have 
come  upon  them.  The  first  week  that  we  were  here, 
the  Chinese  tried  to  burn  us  out.  Our  men  and  women 
worked  heroically  and  the  fires  came  only  as  far  as  our 
Legation  walls. 

Word  has  just  come  that  the  French  Minister  at  his 
Legation  heard  distant  cannon.  Can  it  be  our  coming 
troops?  We  have  been  hearing  sounds  and  seeing  lights 
for  so  long  that  we  listen  very  little  to  rumors.  We  offer 
secret  prayers  each  moment  for  the  coming  of  our  troops. 
Perhaps  we  have  not  yet  been  tested  enough  to  be  re- 
lieved. Some  nights  and  days  the  firing  has  been  most 
frightful.  At  first  it  was  Boxers  who  attacked  us;  now 
it  is  the  armed  Chinese  soldiers  with  their  small  arms 
and  large  foreign  guns.  There  were  hundreds  and  thou- 
sands of  the  Boxers,  and  now  it  is  hundreds  and  thousands 


FLAGS  ON   FOREIGN  GRAVES      115 

of  soldiers  that  are  righting  us  and  striving  to  drive  us  out. 
The  blowing  of  their  horns,  their  yells,  and  the  firing  of 
their  guns,  are  the  most  frightful  noises  I  ever  heard.  It 
seems  as  though  they  were  right  here  with  us.  The  balls 
are  continually  whizzing  by.  When  a  general  attack  is 
made,  the  bell  in  the  tower  rings  rapidly  to  tell  all  the 
men  to  be  ready  to  do  their  best.  This  was  exciting  at 
first,  but  night  after  night  of  this  firing,  horn-blowing, 
yelling,  and  whizzing  of  bullets,  has  hardened  us  to  it, 
or  perhaps  taught  us  to  trust  more  in  a  greater  and  more 
loving  Power. 

Our  hearts  ache  for  the  brave  men  who  are  fighting 
day  and  night  for  our  safety,  until  the  coming  troops  can 
reach  us.  We  have  sometimes  thought  that  our  troops 
have  not  left  Tientsin,  or  that  a  greater  calamity  has  be- 
fallen them  than  us.  We  have  not  heard  from  the  outer 
world  since  June  fourteenth,  and  now  it  is  July  seventh. 

We  did  nothing  to  celebrate  the  Fourth,  except  to 
wear  our  little  flags,  attend  to  duties  here,  and  send  lov- 
ing thoughts  homeward.  Mr.  Conger  and  I  went  over 
to  the  American  Legation  and  got  a  silk  flag  and  placed 
it  over  the  graves  of  the  six  American  marines.  Many 
of  the  foreigners  and  all  of  the  Diplomats  called  and  con- 
gratulated us  upon  our  Independence  Day.  They  are 
always  very  prompt  about  those  things.  Mr.  Conger 
spends  most  of  his  time  at  the  American  Legation  con- 
sulting with  the  officers  and  encouraging  them. 

This  morning  I  made  my  rounds,  then  went  off  in  a 
little  nook  by  myself  to  read.  I  opened  my  Bible  to  see 
what  lesson  was  there  for  me,  and  turned  to  Second 
Corinthians,  first  chapter.  These  words  in  the  eighth, 
ninth,   and  tenth  verses  were  my  message:    "For  we 


n6  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

would  not,  brethren,  have  you  ignorant  of  our  trouble 
which  came  to  us  in  Asia,  that  we  were  pressed  out  of 
measure,  above  strength,  insomuch  that  we  despaired 
even  of  our  life:  But  we  had  the  sentence  of  death  in 
ourselves,  that  we  should  not  trust  in  ourselves,  but  in 
God  which  raiseth  the  dead:  Who  delivered  us  from  so 
great  a  death,  and  doth  deliver:  in  whom  we  trust  that 
he  will  yet  deliver  us." 

What  think  you  ?  I  read  aloud  to  Mrs.  W.  We  looked 
at  each  other  and  wept  together. 

We  have  heard  from  our  coming  troops.  They  came 
within  thirty  miles  of  Peking  and  were  obliged  to  return 
to  Tientsin  to  increase  their  force.  Their  sufferings 
and  losses  have  been  heartrending.  The  Boxers  and 
soldiers  combined  made  a  strong  army,  and  the  deter- 
mined thought  to  wipe  out  foreigners  and  their  ideas  has 
become  wild  and  angry.  The  foreigners  who  have 
known  the  Chinese  longest  and  best  say  that  they  have 
never  before  seen  anything  like  it  in  their  character. 
They  make  attacks  in  the  dark  and  the  rain,  a  thing  they 
would  not  heretofore  do  in  their  warfare.  They  are 
reckless,  fierce,  cruel,  and  determined. 

But  it  must  be  that  God  knows  our  needs.  He  has 
given  or  shown  help  to  us  in  many  ways  during  these 
days  of  test.  God's  loving  hand  alone  saves  us.  I  will 
try  sometime  to  write  in  detail  the  many,  many  ways  in 
which  we  recognize  His  saving  power.  The  booming 
cannon  send  their  shells  right  at  us;  they  sometimes 
burst  over  our  heads,  sometimes  they  go  beyond,  but  not 
a  fragment  touches  us.  When  the  enemy,  after  many  at- 
tempts, gets  the  range  to  harm  us,  and  a  few  shells  would 
injure  our  buildings,  then  the  hands  of  these  Chinese 


FATE   OF  THE   PONIES  117 

seem  to  be  stayed.  Not  once  have  they  continued  firing 
to  the  entire  destruction  of  one  of  these  buildings  or 
walls.  How  could  this  be  true  if  God  did  not  protect 
us  ?    His  loving  arm  is  round  about  us. 

These  words  from  the  third  and  fifth  Psalms  have 
been  a  refuge:  "But,  thou,  O  Lord,  art  a  shield  for  me; 
my  glory,  and  the  lifter  up  of  mine  head.  I  cried  unto 
the  Lord  with  my  voice,  and  he  heard  me  out  of  his  holy 
hill.  I  laid  me  down  and  slept;  I  awaked;  for  the  Lord 
sustained  me.  I  will  not  be  afraid  of  ten  thousands  of 
people,  that  have  set  themselves  against  me  round  about. 
.  Hearken  unto  the  voice  of  my  cry,  my  King, 
and  my  God;   for  unto  thee  will  I  pray." 

Our  little  band  has  watched,  worked.  When  the 
Chinese  burned  their  Native  City,  the  wind  took  the 
flames  from  the  Legations  to  the  west.  Only  think  of 
the  food  that  was  stored  by  the  Chinese  within  "our 
fortified  city"!  We  are  grateful  for  the  horse  meat 
that  we  have  had  each  day  for  weeks.  Our  stores  and 
rice  are  getting  low,  but  we  do  not  think  that  our 
supplies  will  give  out  until  our  troops,  fifty  thousand 
strong,  arrive. 

Our  mule  is  gone  and  our  ponies  are  all  gone  but  one, 
daughter  Laura's.  First  of  all  Mr.  Conger's  pony  had 
to  be  eaten,  as  he  hated  foreigners  as  bitterly  as  do  the 
Chinese.  He  would  snort,  strike,  kick,  and  jump  at 
foreigners,  and  would  not  touch  a  proffered  morsel  that 
the  other  ponies  would  eagerly  eat.  Two  mafoos  were 
obliged  to  stand  at  his  head  to  conceal  Mr.  Conger  while 
he  was  mounting.  Then  all  was  well,  and  the  pony 
seemed  happy. 

One  morning  very  early  the  door  into  the  hall  quietly 


n8  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

opened,  then  closed.  After  a  few  moments  it  opened 
again.     I  said,  "Is  that  you,  Wang?" 

He  said,  "Butcher  take  Miss  Laura's  pony;  I  think 
more  better  he  take  mafoo  pony." 

I  replied,  "All  right,  Wang,  you  go  and  tell  the 
butcher  that  we  wish  you  to  choose  from  our  ponies." 

While  our  ponies  were  all  turned  in  to  the  general 
supply,  we  were  caring  for  them  at  the  American  Lega- 
tion.    Later  I  talked  with  Wang. 

He  said,  "Miss  Laura's  pony  save  to  the  last.  I 
told  mafoo  lock  stables,  and  told  guard  let  no  one  get 
ponies." 

I  said,  "Wang!  Our  ponies  are  common  property 
now.  We  are  just  taking  care  of  them.  But  you  are 
right  about  Miss  Laura's  pony,  and  if  he  is  not  needed 
we  will  keep  him  for  her;  if  needed,  let  him  go  too.  It 
is  all  right." 

Our  days  are  full  of  active  waiting,  and  our  hearts' 
deepest,  truest  beatings  can  never  be  recorded.  All 
join  me  in  loving  good-byes. 


[To  a  Sister] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
July  15,  1900. 
WE  are  foreigners  and  refugees  in  the  British  Lega- 
tion.   Many  of  us  are  learning  the  meaning  of  "refugee." 
We  have  to  be  exceeding  careful  of  our  ammunition; 
we    use    it    only    when    necessity    compels.     The    fires 
kindled  to  weaken  and  destroy  us  have  strengthened  and 
helped  to  protect  us.     They  have  made  an  open  space 
all  about  our  quarters  and  the  space  is  watchfully  guarded 


ON  WALL  AND   IN  TRENCHES     119 

by  our  men.  If  the  Chinese  start  to  make  a  raid  from 
any  direction,  our  men  rally  and  pour  heavy  volleys  upon 
them.  They  think  us  stronger  than  we  are.  Our  cunning 
baffles  them,  and  they  seem  to  be  superstitiously  afraid. 
It  is  not  the  battles  that  wear  upon  our  men,  but  the  con- 
stant and  intent  watch  lest  they  should  be  caught  napping. 

Not  only  do  our  men  watch  from  the  house  tops  and 
the  wall,  but  from  deep  in  the  ground,  as  they  have  to 
guard  against  mines.  All  along  the  north  and  west  we 
have  dug  trenches  to  intercept  the  laying  of  mines. 
The  French  Legation  has  been  almost  wholly  destroyed 
by  mines  and  fires.  We  hear  loud  noises  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Peitang.  What  can  be  the  fate  of  those  poor 
people!  We  cannot  hear  one  word  from  them.  We 
have  tried  to  get  messengers  to  bring  us  word,  but  with- 
out success. 

Over  twenty  couriers  have  been  sent  out  to  get  word 
of  our  coming  troops.  Only  two  have  gotten  through 
to  Tientsin  and  returned  to  us.  All  sorts  of  clever 
schemes  are  laid  for  concealing  messages. 

Laura,  dear  girl,  was  physically  weak  when  we  went 
into  the  siege.  At  first  when  the  severe  attacks  came 
upon  us  she  was  almost  frantic,  and  she  grew  weaker 
and  weaker.  It  seemed  as  though  the  ravaging  enemy 
could  not  be  stayed.  Their  yells  and  howls  could  be 
heard  mingled  with  their  awful  firing.  You  cannot 
know  how  it  sounds.  I  gave  her  one  thought  to  ponder, 
which  I  think  has  been  helpful  to  her.  It  is  this:  "When 
you  are  becoming  frightened,  turn  your  thoughts  to  some 
blessing  and  give  thanks  to  God  with  your  whole  heart." 
Gradually  she  grew  calmer,  and  for  more  than  a  week 
she  has  been  getting  stronger,  eating  more,  sleeping  more, 


i2o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

and  working  all  the  time.  She  does  not  undress  at  night 
yet,  but  there  are  many  who  do  not.  She  and  Mary  are 
two  dear  and  helpful  girls. 

Our  boy  Wang  is  always  trying  to  prepare  something 
delicate  for  "Miss  Laura."  One  day,  on  our  little  square 
table  with  our  allotted  food,  was  a  plate  with  two  small 
rice  birds  upon  it.  I  asked  Wang  what  they  were  and 
where  they  came  from.  "For  Miss  Laura.  I  put  rice 
on  floor;  small  bird  come.  I  shut  door  and  window; 
catch  bird.  Cook  make  'em  Miss  Laura."  This  is  only 
an  illustration  of  his  thoughtfulness  for  her.  This  man 
at  the  head  of  our  servants  is  willing  and  ready  to  do 
anything  for  us  or  for  others  that  is  in  his  power.  Our 
servants  who  are  left  to  us  boil  and  filter  many  bottles  of 
water  each  day  for  the  hospital,  care  for  Captain  Myers, 
run  errands,  and  fill  bags.  Their  ready  hands  and  willing 
hearts  find  much  to  do  in  many  directions.  Most  of  our 
nine  servants  who  came  to  the  British  Legation  with  us 
are  doing  general  work  with  the  mass  of  the  Chinese 
refugees.    We  are  all  working. 

Daughter  Laura  has  full  charge  of  the  food  supplies 
and  looks  carefully  to  the  amount  and  quality  of  each 
meal.  As  there  are  nine  in  our  family  this  is  no  small 
task.  When  we  gather  to  partake  of  our  scanty  food  we 
all  stand  while  Dr.  Martin  raises  his  hands  and  in  a  clear 
voice  asks  the  dear  Father  to  give  us  more  grace,  more 
patience,  more  gratitude.  Surely  this  is  the  food  we  most 
need. 

Our  dining-room,  sitting-room,  reception  room,  and 
sleeping-room,  all  in  one,  is  an  active  workshop  through  the 
day.  Two  sewing-machines  are  in  constant  use.  Noth- 
ing was  ready  for  the  hospital,  and  as  it  is  filling,  increas- 


SUPPLY  OF  AMMUNITION  121 

ing  demands  are  made  daily.  With  constant  work,  the 
supply  has  been  sufficient  Lady  physicians  turn  nurses; 
college  teachers  turn  cooks;  ladies  turn  servants  for  the 
sick  and  wounded.  The  true  sister  is  not  found  wanting. 
Women  serve  in  these  capacities,  as  men  must  serve  in 
other  ways.  There  are  sick  children  and  adults  to  be 
cared  for,  and  loving  hands  reach  out  to  help  them.  The 
mounds  in  the  open  space  to  the  south  of  us  speak  of 
heart-sorrows.    The  hour  is  most  testing. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
July  18,  igoo. 

AS  YOU  are  always  so  deeply  interested  in  knowing 
what  we  are  doing,  I  am  going  again  to  my  diary  and  will 
send  you  some  items  from  its  pages. 

July  8.  A  Japanese  was  severely  wounded  this 
morning  and  an  Austrian  captain  killed.  It  nearly  breaks 
our  hearts  to  lose  one  of  our  number,  or  to  have  one  dis- 
abled. ^  Captain  Myers  is  somewhat  better.  Two  Amer- 
ican marines  have  been  suffering  from  chills  and  fever, 
but  are  better.  They  are  cared  for  in  our  Legation  home. 
Dr.  Lowry  has  taken  Dr.  Lippet's  place  since  he  was 
wounded.  He  fearlessly  goes  into  the  most  dangerous 
places  when  duty  calls. 

This  morning  three  quarts  of  bullets  were  picked  up 
that  the  enemy  had  fired  into  the  American  Legation. 
They  are  to  be  melted  and  made  into  balls  for  the  big 
gun  belonging  to  the  Italians.  All  the  temple  candlesticks, 
vases,  images,  in  fact  everything  that  can  be  melted,  have 
been  gathered  and  moulded  into  ammunition.     Moulds 


i22  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

had  to  be  improvised  to  do  this  work.  There  are  no  idle 
hands  in  these  quarters.  There  are  no  sand  bags  to  be 
made  to-day,  nor  other  sewing  to  be  done.  I  visited  the 
hospital  twice,  as  usual,  to  see  what  supplies  were  needed. 
More  draw-sheets,  aprons,  and  pillow  cases  must  be  made 
to-morrow. 

A  large  iron  ball  just  fell  below  our  window,  but  it 
did  no  harm.  The  ball  is  still  warm.  Another,  at  least 
six  inches  in  diameter,  went  whizzing  through  the  walls 
of  the  British  Minister's  dining-room.  Fortunately  it 
passed  near  the  ceiling,  so  it  did  no  damage  aside  from 
knocking  off  a  corner  of  the  frame  of  Queen  Victoria's 
portrait.  The  Chinese  are  firing  their  big  guns  by  far 
too  much  for  our  comfort. 

Many  of  the  native  refugees  at  the  Fu  are  to  be  re- 
moved to  buildings  on  Legation  Street.  There  is  some 
sickness  in  the  Fu  and  it  is  feared  that  it  might  spread  by 
having  the  coolies  go  back  and  forth.  What  should  we 
do  without  the  Chinese  coolies  ?  They  are  necessary  and 
efficient  workers  in  building  barricades,  digging  ditches, 
putting  out  fires,  and  in  doing  all  sorts  of  manual  labor. 
The  British  held  communion  services  to-day  at  Sir 
Claude's  home.  The  French  Catholics  held  services,  as 
did  also  the  Russians  at  their  quarters,  and  the  Americans 
at  the  chapel.  Our  many  American  missionaries  occupy 
this  chapel  as  their  home  while  in  siege.  This  is  our  first 
opportunity  for  general  worship,  our  first  relief  from 
sewing.  The  other  Sundays  were  full  to  overflowing  with 
bag-making  and  sewing  for  the  hospital.  The  men  have 
no  relief;  they  cannot  for  a  moment  leave  their  watchful 
guard. 

There  is  a  bell  tower,  with  a  hanging  bell,  just  in 


UNDER   FIRE,   BUT  SAVED  123 

front  of  this  chapel.  This  bell  serves  us  well  and  its  call 
can  be  heard  throughout  our  fortified  city.  In  case  of 
general  attack  from  the  Chinese  it  rings  furiously  for  all 
to  rally.  In  case  of  fire  it  tolls,  but  the  rally  is  just  as 
quickly  made  as  before.  The  foundation  of  this  tower 
is  used  as  a  bulletin  station,  and  here  the  cable  despatches, 
messages,  edicts,  and  rumors  are  posted.  Laura  and 
Mary  copy  many  of  the  most  interesting  for  me. 

The  new  improvised  gun,  well  named  the  "  Inter- 
national," after  being  tried  at  the  American  Legation, 
was  brought  over  here  and  is  now  firing  at  the  guns  point- 
ing on  the  Fu.  It  cannot  be  fired  often,  as  it  kicks  itself 
out  of  position.  The  men  are  at  work  trying  to  fix  up 
another  gun.  The  evening  was  quiet,  but  at  ten  o'clock 
terrific  firing  from  small  arms,  big  guns,  and  the  horrid 
jingals  began,  and  lasted  about  thirty  minutes;  then 
followed  more  moderate  volleys.  At  three  o'clock  the 
Chinese  with  yells,  horns,  rifle  fire,  and  cannonading, 
were  set  loose.  The  skies  were  brilliant  with  flashes  and 
noisy  with  whizzing  bullets  and  bursting  shells.  Our 
brave  men  have  learned  to  use  their  ammunition  only 
when  it  is  really  necessary  to  sweep  down  upon  the  enemy 
in  their  raids.  The  Chinese  are  not  so  careful  of  their 
supplies.  It  is  most  wonderful  how  we  are  protected 
day  and  night.  The  Almighty  Hand  is  above  us  and  we 
trustingly  know  it. 

A  fire  was  set  in  the  Fu  by  the  Chinese,  and  raged  for 
a  time.  It  is  under  control  now,  but  it  has  burned  most 
valuable  buildings  and  rich  treasures  belonging  to  Prince 
Su,  a  wealthy  Chinese  official  and  one  of  the  hereditary 
Princes.  If  this  fire  does  not  spread,  it  will  help  our  men 
by  leaving  an  opening  where  they  can  detect  the  position 


i24  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

of  the  enemy.  The  Fu,  or  part  of  it,  has  now  about  two 
thousand  Chinese  refugees  in  it;  these  the  enemy  are 
trying  to  destroy,  but  they  are  too  furious  to  execute  well 
their  devilish  designs.  The  Fu  seems  to  be  their  present 
objective  point. 

July  g.  Two  years  ago  to-day  Mr.  Conger  presented 
his  credentials  to  the  Emperor  of  China.  How  many 
events  have  been  crowded  into  these  two  years !  and  what 
a  beginning  of  a  third !  Last  night  was  noisy  most  of  the 
time  after  ten  o'clock.  At  three  was  a  general  attack,  but 
our  tower  bell  did  not  call  for  a  rally  of  our  people.  The 
attack  was  fierce  for  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Later 
the  big  guns  boomed  at  intervals. 

We  are  making  more  sand  bags,  as  many  of  the  first 
we  made  are  bursting.  Some  of  them  are  of  richest  silks, 
satins,  and  fine  embroideries;  others  are  of  the  coarsest 
cottons  and  hemp.  Everything  available  is  used.  The 
fine  texture  of  some  of  them  cannot  stand  the  rains,  hot 
sunshine,  and  heavy  weight.  These  sand  bags  suggest  to 
me  the  people  who  are  working  here  side  by  side;  people 
of  all  callings  working  together  in  one  common  cause. 
Here  in  this  awful  peril  rank  is  little  recognized,  and  much 
less  claimed.  A  lady  of  title,  position,  and  wealth,  and 
in  deepest  sorrow,  looked  most  appealingly  in  my  face 
to-day  and  said,  "No  title,  no  position,  no  money,  can 
help  us  here  —  these  things  mock  us."  She  is  right; 
each  one  stands  for  the  good  he  can  do.  We  are  all  work- 
ing for  a  common  cause  and  giving  the  best  that  is  in  us. 
"Be  strong  and  of  good  courage.  I  will  be  with  thee; 
I  will  not  fail  thee  nor  forsake  thee."     (Joshua  i :  6,  5.) 

July  10.  It  is  becoming  difficult  to  get  material  for 
sand  bags.     This  morning  soldiers'  blankets  were  cut 


"THE  INTERNATIONAL  "  125 

up.  In  fact  everything  is  used  that  will  hold  sand.  I 
visited  the  hospital  and  took  a  new  supply  of  draw-sheets, 
pillow  cases,  and  bandages.  They  wish  more  bandages 
and  pajamas  for  the  patients.  Laura  and  Mary  quickly 
made  five  pairs  of  pajamas,  and  later  I  took  them  to  the 
hospital.  Two  pairs  were  white,  three  pairs  were  made  of 
the  girls'  blue  and  white  window  curtains.  To-night  the 
girls  have  found  more  cloth  and  to-morrow  they  will  make 
it  into  pajamas.  Material  at  times  seems  to  be  getting 
very  low,  but  in  the  hour  of  need  more  is  discovered. 

I  would  love  to  say  to  you  many  things  that  pen  and 
paper  can  never  say.  I  love  my  religion  as  I  never  before 
knew  how  to  love  it.  It  is  surely  refuge  and  strength  in 
time  of  need.  As  the  clouds  thicken,  we  have  to  watch 
that  we  may  not  stumble. 

Our  new  gun,  the  "  International,"  manned  by  our 
American  gunner,  is  booming  at  times  and  shakes 
the  buildings.  The  noise  is  great.  This  is  fine  for  us,  as 
the  Chinese  are  frightened  at  noise.  The  evening  was 
quiet  until  about  nine,  then  stray  shots  began  to  cut  the 
leaves  and  branches  above  our  heads.  At  eleven,  the 
whole  north  seemed  to  be  coming  down  upon  us.  The 
blowing  of  rallying  horns,  yells,  volleys,  and  booming  of 
cannon,  were  most  fearful.  Our  "International"  made 
the  greatest  noise  for  us.  We  are  having  most  delightful 
weather  —  wonderful  for  this  season  in  Peking;  surely  it 
is  most  divinely  given.  Our  dear  Laura  has  conquered 
herself  by  her  untiring  thought  and  work  for  others.  She 
is  calm  and  helps  to  fight  many  battles  of  this  dreadful 
siege.  God  is  helping  and  sustaining  her.  My  two  dear 
girls!  How  could  I  do  without  them!  They  never 
murmur  over  their  privations.    The  doctors  and  nurses 


126  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

at  the  hospital  say  that  the  sick  and  wounded  are  doing 
well. 

Mrs.  M.  sent  for  her  sewing-machine.  Some  of  the 
missionaries  are  making  trousers  for  our  marines.  Their 
change  of  clothing  did  not  reach  them  from  Tientsin. 
These  marines  are  sorely  tried,  for  their  clothes  are  soiled 
and  warm  and  they  have  to  wear  them  day  and  night. 
Another  sewing-machine  was  brought  to  us  from  the 
German  Legation.  The  Spanish  Minister  brought  two 
pictures  from  his  Legation  that  his  daughter  had  painted 
and  sent  to  him.  He  asked  if  they  might  be  hung  upon 
these  walls  and  then  if  he  might  come  to  see  them  each 
day.  He  told  us  about  these  pictures  and  his  daughter 
and  his  family.  He  handled  the  pictures  tenderly  and 
requested  that  he  might  hang  them  unaided.  He  is  here 
alone,  the  only  member  of  his  Legation,  and  he  had  no 
good  place  to  hang  these  pictures  that  he  loved. 

July  ii.  Firing  commenced  about  three  o'clock. 
One  man  was  killed  and  four  wounded;  thus  our  ranks 
are  thinning.  We  cannot  spare  these  brave  men.  There 
is  but  little  firing  to-day,  still  we  are  not  idle.  Work  is 
the  order  for  all.  A  call  came  for  sand  bags  for  the  Fu. 
These  bags  and  more  supplies  for  the  hospital  are  being 
made.  It  is  said  that  Prince  Ch'ing's  troops  and  Prince 
Tuan's  are  fighting  each  other.  We  hear  distant  can- 
nonading and  there  are  not  so  many  soldiers  and  Boxers 
fighting  us  as  usual.  We  are  shut  in  so  completely  that 
we  do  not  know  what  is  going  on  outside.  We  hear 
nothing  of  our  coming  troops.  The  enemy's  big  guns 
on  the  wall  keep  in  their  places  and  play  upon  us  at  times. 
Our  "International"  now  and  then  speaks  in  its  terri- 
fying voice.     Work  on  the  wall  continues.     Last  night 


EXTENT  OF   "FORTIFIED  CITY"     127 

guns  and  flags  that  the  enemy  had  left  were  captured; 
this  was  a  dangerous  thing  to  do.  In  an  attack  upon 
the  French  Legation  eighteen  Chinese  were  captured. 
After  examination  they  were  put  to  death.  Great  efforts 
are  made  to  dispose  of  the  Chinese  killed  on  the  wall  the 
night  of  July  third;   the  ^^ch  is  dreadful. 

July  12.  Less  firing  during  the  night  than  we  have 
had  for  some  time.  This  morning  no  one  was  reported  as 
killed  or  wounded;  we  rejoice.  All  the  morning  the  big 
guns  were  firing  at  intervals.  The  French  Legation  was 
severely  attacked  and  two  soldiers  and  two  civilians  were 
wounded.  This  is  a  common  grief.  There  were  many 
brave  acts  during  the  day,  through  which  rifles  and  flags 
were  captured.  The  "  International "  is  taken  to  all 
parts  of  our  fortified  city. 

"Our  city"  reaches  from  the  German  Legation  at 
the  east,  south  of  Legation  Street,  to  the  west  side  of  the 
American  Legation.  This  secures  a  passageway  to  the 
city  wall  between  these  two  points.  North  of  Legation 
Street  our  domain  reaches  from  the  French  Legation, 
east,  to  the  Russian,  west.  This  includes  eight  Legations. 
The  German  and  the  American  Legations  are  south  of 
Legation  Street;  the  French,  Italian,  Japanese,  Spanish, 
British,  and  Russian  are  north  of  Legation  Street.  The 
Fu  is  on  the  north  between  the  Legations.  In  this  district 
there  are  many  other  buildings,  both  Chinese  and  foreign, 
which  are  of  value  to  us  on  account  of  their  supplies. 

It  is  getting  quite  hot.  I  never  saw  such  swarms  of 
flies,  mosquitoes,  and  fleas.  Our  people  strive  to  keep 
the  animals  and  dead  Chinese  buried,  but  they  are  often 
beyond  our  safety  line  and  it  is  very  dangerous  to  attempt 
to  reach  them,  even  under  cover  of  the  night. 


128  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Mr.  Cheshire  was  on  the  wall  with  a  relay  of  coolies 
last  night  and  goes  again  to-night.  He  is  one  of  the 
ablest  workers.  He  never  sings  his  own  praises,  but  is 
always  on  duty  with  a  cheerful  heart,  willing  hand,  and 
a  head  full  of  good  judgment.  His  knowledge  of  Chi- 
nese and  his  willingness  to  use  it  often  cause  him  to  do 
double  duty. 

How  long  —  oh,  how  long  shall  we  be  tested  in  this 
awful  way  ? 

Psalm  27:14:  "Wait  on  the  Lord:  be  of  good 
courage,  and  he  shall  strengthen  thine  heart:  wait, 
I  say,  on  the  Lord." 

At  seven  o'clock  there  was  a  fierce,  general,  and  pro- 
longed attack.  It  was  simply  terrifying.  Our  tower 
bell  rang  furiously,  calling  every  man  to  his  post;  he 
was  there!  The  hard,  incessant  firing  lasted  one  and 
one-half  hours;  from  seven  o'clock  on  through  the  night 
there  was  no  quiet.  The  Chinese  had  undermined  the 
French  Legation  wall  and  planted  a  mine  to  blow  it  up. 
It  did  great  damage.  There  were  two  fires  set  in  the 
Legation.  The  enemy  seems  to  know  that  if  they  can 
rout  us  out  of  this  stronghold,  they  will  gain  a  great 
point.  They  make  severe  attacks  upon  the  French  and 
German  Legations  and  upon  the  Fu.  For  several  days 
their  united  efforts  have  been  in  these  directions.  These 
points  are  east  and  southeast  of  us.  Our  brave  men  do 
wonderful  work. 

Dr.  Martin  is  with  us.  He  rises  very  early  each 
morning  and  goes  to  his  post  at  the  gate,  where  he  ques- 
tions all  Chinese  who  enter,  and  examines  their  passes. 
He  scarcely  leaves,  except  to  eat  his  simple  food.  There 
was  a  fire  south  of  the  German  Legation  stables,  and  with 


GERMAN   MARINES  WIN  129 

these  severe  attacks  from  that  direction  the  situation 
darkens.  This  last  general  attack  is  the  most  deter- 
mined and  prolonged  of  all,  and  the  bullets  and  shells 
come  into  this  Legation  in  a  terrific  way.  The  enemy 
seems  to  have  the  range  more  accurately  than  before. 

About  six  o'clock  the  Chinese  made  a  raid  down 
Wall  Street  from  the  east.  Our  men  turned  volleys 
upon  them,  killing  many  and  turning  back  the  rest. 
The  Chinese  gained  nothing.  Upon  the  city  wall,  to 
the  south,  there  are  now  stationed  about  twenty-five 
American  and  Russian  marines.  The  Japanese,  Ger- 
mans, and  French  are  suffering  so  many  losses  that  their 
numbers  are  few.  They  still  hold  their  Legations  and  the 
Fu.  Legation  Street  has  many  barricades  built  by  our 
men  in  order  to  save  themselves  if  driven  back.  The 
Germans  were  routed  from  behind  the  first  barricade  to 
the  east  and  took  refuge  behind  the  next.  The  Chinese 
followed  in  large  numbers.  The  German  captain  gave 
a  quick  order  for  his  bugler  to  blow  the  "attack."  He 
did  so,  and  they  all  turned,  twenty  of  them,  and  fired 
volleys  upon  the  Chinese,  many  of  whom  fell  and  many 
ran,  leaving  rifles  and  ammunition.  These  brave  Ger- 
mans regained  the  lost  barricade. 

July  14.  A  dreadful  night!  Angry  firing  was  kept 
up  the  night  through.  The  booming  of  the  big  guns 
shook  the  very  earth  and  seemed  to  threaten  destruction 
to  all  our  fortifications  and  to  us.  This  morning  the 
thunders  of  the  heavens  joined  the  thunders  of  the  guns, 
and  for  a  time  they  seemed  to  vie  with  each  other.  When 
the  heavy  rainfall  came,  the  firing  grew  less,  but  it  con- 
tinued from  some  points  all  day.  The  bullets  whizz 
above  our  heads.    The  Chinese  often  fire  high,  for  which 


i3o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

we  give  thanks.  There  were  five  men  wounded  in  this 
awful  fight,  and  one  killed.  Last  night  our  people  built 
a  barricade  east  of  the  bridge;  so  if  the  French  and 
German  Legations  have  to  be  given  up,  the  men  can 
be  protected  in  their  flight.  Must  these  brave  men  be 
compelled  to  leave  these  Legations  which  have  cost  so 
many  lives  to  save!  It  surely  cannot  be.  Let  us  hope 
and  trust  to  the  last. 

Word  just  came  to  us  that  the  French  were  obliged 
to  give  up  a  large  portion  of  their  Legation.  The  mines 
that  the  Chinese  lighted  killed  two  hundred  of  their  own 
men.  There  were  two  Frenchmen  burned.  The  first 
mine  completely  confined  the  Austrian  charge  d'affaires. 
The  second  explosion  relieved  him.  His  wounds  were 
slight.  A  most  marvellous  escape!  The  Minister's 
house  burned  during  the  night.  It  is  thought  that  the 
rest  of  the  French  Legation  can  be  held  several  days 
longer.  The  "  International"  was  taken  to  the  French 
Legation  for  duty  this  afternoon.  Much  of  the  wheat, 
and  five  grist  mills  were  brought  over  here  for  greater 
safety. 

The  following  message  has  just  been  received  by  the 
foreign  Ministers,  and  posted  at  the  bell  tower: 

(Translation  oj  letter  sent  July  fourteenth  to  Sir  Claude 
MacDonald.) 

"For  the  last  ten  days  the  soldiers  and  militia  have  been 
fighting,  and,  to  our  great  anxiety,  there  has  been  no  commu- 
nication between  us. 

"Some  time  ago  we  hung  up  a  board  expressing  our  in- 
tentions, but  no  answer  has  been  received,  and,  contrary  to  our 
expectation,  the  foreign  soldiers  made  renewed  attacks,  caus- 
ing alarm  and  suspicion  among  soldiers  and  people.  Yesterday 
the  troops  captured  a  convert  named  Chin  su  Hai  and  learned 


Tfftj 


Prince  Ch'ing,  Premier  of  China,  One  of  the  Negotiators 
in  1900 


LETTER   FROM   THE  YAMEN       131 

from  him  that  all  the  foreign  Ministers  were  well.  It  caused 
us  great  satisfaction.  But  it  is  the  unexpected  that  happens. 
The  reinforcements  of  foreign  troops  were  ever  so  long  ago 
stopped  and  turned  back  by  the  Boxers;  and  if  in  accordance 
with  the  previous  agreement  we  were  to  guard  Your  Excel- 
lencies out  of  the  City,  there  are  so  many  Boxers  in  the 
Tientsin  Taku  road  that  we  should  be  very  apprehensive  of 
misadventure.  We  now  request  Your  Excellencies  to  first  take 
your  families  and  the  various  members  of  your  staffs  and  leave 
your  Legations  in  detachments.  We  would  select  trust- 
worthy officers  to  give  close  and  strict  protection  and  you  should 
temporarily  reside  in  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen,  pending  future 
arrangements  for  your  return  home,  in  order  to  preserve  friendly 
relations  intact  from  beginning  to  end. 

"But  at  the  time  of  leaving  the  Legation  there  must  on  no 
account  whatever  be  any  single  armed  foreign  soldier,  in  order 
to  prevent  doubt  and  fear  on  the  part  of  the  troops  and  people 
leading  to  untoward  incidents.  If  Your  Excellencies  are  will- 
ing to  show  this  confidence,  we  beg  of  you  to  communicate  with 
all  the  foreign  Ministers  in  Peking  to-morrow  at  noon  to  the 
limit  of  time  and  to  let  the  original  messenger  deliver  your 
reply  in  order  that  we  may  settle  in  advance  the  day  for  leav- 
ing the  Legations.  This  is  the  simplest  way  of  preserving 
relations  that  we  have  been  able  to  devise  in  the  face  of 
unavoidable  difficulties.  If  your  reply  is  not  received  by  the 
time  fixed,  even  our  affection  will  not  enable  us  to  help  you. 

"Compliments  Prince  Ch'ing  and  others. 
"Sixth  month,  eighteenth  day." 

A  reply  has  been  sent  to-day  on  the  part  of  the  fore:gn 
representatives  declining  the  invitation  to  proceed  to 
the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  and  pointing  out  that  no  attacks 
have  been  made  by  our  troops,  who  are  only  defending 
our  lives  and  property  against  the  attacks  of  Chinese 
Government  troops.  The  reply  concludes  with  a  state- 
ment that  if  the  Chinese  Government  wishes  to  negotiate, 
it  should  send  a  responsible  official  with  a  white  flag.  This 
communication  was  signed  by  Sir  Claude  MacDonald. 


132  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

July  15.  A  messenger  sent  out  five  days  ago  returned 
saying  that  after  leaving  the  wall  he  was  taken  to  a  temple, 
beaten,  and  then  sent  to  the  Imperial  City,  to  Jung  Lu's 
headquarters.  Here  he  was  kept  two  days,  given  a 
letter  with  proposals  of  peace,  then  taken  back  to  the 
temple,  and  with  a  Chinese  officer  and  some  soldiers  re- 
turned to  the  Water  Gate.     He  was  horribly  beaten. 

A  short  but  severe  attack  about  seven  o'clock. 

I  cannot  tell  when  this  letter  will  start  on  its  journey 
homeward.  What  can  the  dear  home  folks  be  thinking 
of  us?    Of  course  you  know  absolutely  nothing. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
(Siege  Days),  July  20,  igoo. 

ITEMS  from  my  diary  will  give  you  some  idea  of 
what  we  are  doing  from  day  to  day. 

July  15.  The  night  was  not  quiet,  but  the  attacks 
were  short  and  fierce.  A  terrific  attack  came  upon  us 
about  two  o'clock  to-day  like  a  clap  of  thunder  from  a 
clear  sky.  Fortunately,  the  whizzing  shells  passed  over  us 
too  high  to  do  us  much  harm.  A  British  student,  Mr. 
Warren,  was  badly  wounded  during  a  severe  attack  in  the 
evening.  We  cannot  spare  him!  The  Chinese  send  up 
signal  rockets,  which  give  orders  to  fire  and  to  cease  firing. 
They  seem  to  be  promptly  obeyed.  Our  brave  men  on  the 
city  wall  see  these  signals.  There  is  much  watchful  work 
being  done  by  special  active  committees.  If  the  good 
deeds  of  each  individual  were  recorded,  a  commendatory 
article  would  be  written  of  each  person. 

The  members  of  the  British  Minister's  staff  gave  up 


ALL  MAKE  COMMON  CAUSE      133 

their  homes  in  this  Legation  to  their  sister  Legations,  and 
gratefully  are  we  crowded  together  in  our  allotted  quarters. 
This  staff  have  gone  to  their  Minister's  home,  or  elsewhere. 
Many  foreigners  outside  of  the  Diplomatic  Service  are 
crowded  in  smaller  houses,  or  in  open  pavilions.  With- 
out being  here,  no  one  can  imagine  our  direful  situation. 
There  is  too  much  at  stake  for  us  to  stop  and  complain 
over  anything.  Our  hearts  are  opened  in  one  great 
praise  song,  for  in  this  awful  tornado  the  dark  clouds 
separate  above  our  heads  and  show  that  the  sun  is  still 
shining.  The  magnitude  of  the  mighty  Power  protecting 
this  little  spot  of  earth,  in  these  awful  days,  is  far  beyond 
human  conception.  The  Ministers  and  their  helpers 
stand  for  the  foreign  nations,  and  have  their  important 
places;  the  sturdy,  intelligent  men  of  the  Imperial 
Customs  are  ever  active;  the  missionaries  know  the 
Chinese  language  and  people,  and  are  scientific,  practical 
men,  quietly  doing  their  best;  the  marines  of  the  eight 
nations  are  brave  men  and  are  doing  mighty  work  day  and 
night. 

We  have  dismantled  our  home;  everything  has  been 
taken  that  could  be  made  into  sand  bags,  used  in  the 
hospital,  or  on  the  city  wall.  Others  have  done  likewise. 
This  is  the  time  to  share  what  we  have  —  God  will  take 
care  of  our  future  needs.  Common  trials  make  us  willing 
to  respond  to  common  demands. 

July  16.  The  Chinese  gained  ground  on  the  city  wall 
from  the  Hatamen.  We  deeply  regret  this,  because  it 
weakens  the  position  of  the  Germans,  and  the  Chinese 
crowd  down  nearer  our  men  on  the  wall.  The  Germans 
and  French  had  a  severe  struggle  again  last  night.  They 
have  been  truly  brave  in  their  sore  trials.    We  are  mourn- 


i34  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

fully  saddened  this  morning.  Commander  Strouts 
(British),  ranking  officer  of  foreign  troops,  when  on  his 
way  to  the  Fu  with  marines,  was  badly  wounded.  We 
cannot  afford  to  lose  our  officers.  Their  men  need  their 
good  cheer,  bravery,  and  practical  knowledge.  Our 
men  are  not  now  going  one  by  one,  but  two  by  two,  and 
even  more  rapidly,  and  our  hearts  are  sorely  grieved. 
Later,  word  comes  that  one  of  our  American  marines  is 
badly  wounded  in  the  breast.  Dr.  Morrison  was  also 
wounded  this  morning.     Dr.  Lippet  is  doing  well. 

Our  wounded  marine  died  this  afternoon  and  was 
buried  in  the  Russian  Legation,  with  his  comrades  who 
have  fallen.  Mr.  Conger,  Mr.  Bainbridge,  American 
missionaries,  and  several  ladies  were  present  to  bury  him. 
Mr.  Conger  made  a  few  remarks,  Dr.  Wherry  read  a 
Scripture  lesson,  Dr.  Smith  then  spoke  feelingly,  and  Dr. 
Martin  offered  prayer.  The  remains  were  wrapped  in 
the  American  flag  and  then  lowered  into  their  earthly  bed. 
Mary  and  I  placed  flowers  in  the  grave.  All  remained 
until  the  grave  was  rilled,  then  we  placed  green  branches 
upon  the  seven  mounds  and  a  small  silk  flag  among  them 
for  all.  Captain  Myers  is  still  suffering  from  his  wound. 
Captain  Hall  is  not  well  to-day  and  is  off  duty.  Captain 
Strouts  and  Mr.  Warren  both  died  from  the  effects  of 
their  severe  wounds.  The  English  service  was  read  on 
the  way  to  the  grave.  Many  followed  in  a  long  proces- 
sion. Both  were  buried  in  one  grave,  with  the  impressive 
English  service.  During  this  service  two  shells  went 
whizzing  over  our  heads  and  burst  just  beyond  us. 

In  the  midst  of  the  service  Mr.  Conger  was  hurriedly 
called  away.  There  was  a  cablegram  of  some  sort  in  code. 
The  same  messenger  brought  it  who  had  been  whipped, 


AN   INTERCEPTED   DESPATCH     135 

who  had  come  with  the  letter  from  Prince  Ch'ing,  and 
who  had  been  sent  back  with  a  reply.  Mr.  Conger  and 
his  staff  worked  diligently  with  the  message  to  make  some- 
thing out  of  it.  It  was  evidently  from  the  American  Gov- 
ernment code  book,  but  by  whom,  when,  or  where  it  was 
made,  could  not  be  detected.  Of  course,  it  means  some- 
thing. It  is  food  for  guessing,  and  creates  much  interest 
among  the  Ministers  and  others.  This  message  was  said 
to  have  come  from  General  Jung  Lu's  headquarters  and 
was  under  red  cover.     It  read  as  follows: 

"  Communicate  tidings,  bearer." 

Mr.  Conger  sent  the  following  answer  in  Department 
code: 

"  For  one  month  we  have  been  besieged  in  British  Legation 
under  continued  shot  and  shell  from  Chinese  troops.  Quick 
relief  only  can  prevent  general  massacre." 

Accompanying  this  cablegram  was  the  following  letter 
to  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen,  dated  July  17,  1900: 

"Thanking  you  for  the  partial  telegram  sent  me,  I  enclose 
reply,  as  you  suggest,  which  I  shall  be  glad  to  have  forwarded 
to  the  address  named  in  the  original  cablegram,  but  which  you 
have  omitted  in  the  copy  sent  me.  I  will  also  thank  you  to  send 
me  the  original  cablegram  entire." 

July  17.     Two  men  wounded  during  the  night. 

All  up  and  down  the  streets  outside  our  guarded 
city  are  Chinese  soldiers  with  white  flags.  A  message 
has  been  sent  to  the  Chinese  officers  that  we  would  not 
fire  on  the  white  flag,  and  now  all  seem  to  be  using  it. 
What  can  this  quiet  mean  to-day?  Our  guards  are  just 
as  watchful,  if  not  more  so,  when  all  is  quiet.  A  letter 
from  the  Yamen  to  the  Ministers  last  night  said  they 


136  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

would  bring  more  Chinese  troops  into  the  city  to  protect 
us,  and  troops  did  come  through  the  Ch'ienmen.  But 
such  protection  as  they  have  been  giving  us  we  do  not 
much  enjoy.  Can  they  be  planning  a  trap  for  us?  Let 
us  trust  not. 

The  Chinese  kept  on  building  a  barricade  on  Legation 
Street  West.  Our  men  put  up  a  notice,  "Stop  work,  or 
we  will  fire,"  The  "  International "  was  taken  over,  and 
as  the  work  was  not  discontinued,  our  men  fired.  For 
a  time  there  was  some  firing  on  both  sides.  To-day  a 
messenger  from  General  Jung  Lu  came  asking  if  Chinese 
officials  cannot  hold  a  conference  with  our  officials  to 
discuss  the  situation  and  arrange  terms.  He  said  that 
General  Jung  Lu  gave  orders  to  cease  firing.  Not  one 
shot  was  fired  at  the  German  Legation  last  night. 

July  iy.  During  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Conger  received 
the  following  reply  to  his  note: 

"We  have  just  received  Your  Excellency's  note  together 
with  the  cablegram  you  sent.  The  cablegram  of  yesterday  was 
from  His  Excellency  Wu,  transmitting  an  inquiry  from  the 
Secretary  of  State  asking  if  Mr.  Conger  was  well. 

"We  now  enclose  a  copy  of  Mr.  Wu's  cablegram  for  your 
perusal.  The  reply  you  sent  we  will  transmit  to  Mr.  Wu,  to 
be  by  him  sent  to  the  Honorable  Secretary  of  State. 

"  Compliments,  Prince  Ch'ing  and  others. 
"Twenty-first  day,  sixth  moon." 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  the  cablegram  sent  by  His 
Excellency,  Wu  Ting  Fang: 

"The  United  States  cheerfully  aids  China,  but  it  is  thinking 
of  Mr.  Minister  Conger.     The  Honorable  Secretary  of  State 
inquires  after  him  by  cablegram  which  I  beg  to  be  transmitted 
to  him  and  get  his  reply. 
"  Fifteenth  day,  sixth  moon." 


RELIEF  FROM  TIENTSIN  137 

We  are  almost  paralyzed.  We  cannot  give  expression 
to  our  pent-up  flood  of  delight.  The  cablegram  was 
dated  July  11,  1900.  Only  think,  the  return  message 
will  reach  Washington  within  six  days !  It  was  sent  July 
sixteenth. 

After  Mr.  Conger  received  his  explanation,  he  went 
over  to  the  bell-tower  headquarters  and  to  the  chapel  and 
told  them  all  about  it.  English  and  other  nationalities 
came  up  and  listened.  An  Englishman  said  to  Mrs  G. : 
"No  other  Minister  but  an  American  would  take  the 
trouble  to  explain  matters  to  his  nation's  subjects." 

In  the  distance,  we  hear  the  blowing  of  horns  and  now 
and  then  the  booming  of  cannon.  We  cannot  know  what 
it  means  and  where  it  is.  The  stillness  here  is  almost 
frightful.  Arrangements  were  made  to-day  between 
"Prince  Ch'ing  and  others"  and  our  foreign  Ministers 
that  firing  and  the  fortifying  work  should  cease. 

July  18.  A  quiet  night.  How  strange  it  seems! 
There  were  only  stray  shots  heard.  Every  one  outside 
seems  to  be  resting,  and  so  are  we,  yet  we  are  always  on 
the  watch.  We  went  over  to  the  American  Legation 
to-day.     Captain  Hall  is  recovering  from  his  illness. 

A  messenger  sent  to  Tientsin  by  the  Japanese  Minis- 
ter returned  to-day.    He  brings  the  following  message: 

"The  forts  near  Tientsin  at  Ta  Ku  were  taken  July  14. 
Troops  start  for  Peking  about  July  20.  Waiting  for  arrival 
of  more  troops." 

When  will  they  reach  us? 

Thus  we  see  that  our  Seymour  "coming  troops" 
are  not  coming.  They  met  with  great  reverses  and  had 
to  return  to  Tientsin.     What  their  trials  and  losses  were 


i38  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

we  do  not  know.  This  touch  with  the  outside  world  is 
worth  much  to  us.  We  know  that  our  relief  has  not  yet 
left  Tientsin,  but  it  is  coming! 

A  Chinese  official  came  to-day  to  hold  an  interview 
with  the  foreign  Ministers.  He  informed  them  that  the 
Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang  has  been  recalled  to  this  Prov- 
ince from  the  South.  It  seems  that  in  time  of  trouble 
they  call  on  him  for  help;  in  time  of  peace,  they  are 
afraid  of  him.  There  has  been  almost  absolute  cessa- 
tion from  firing  through  the  day  and  evening.  If  the 
Chinese  officials  could,  by  a  few  orders,  stop  all  firing 
in  the  hottest  of  the  fight,  why  did  they  not  do  it  before  ? 
Much  goes  to  show  that  they  did  not  intend  to  protect 
us.  Only  think  of  it!  They  are  allowing  their  armies 
to  fire  upon  the  representatives  of  eleven  nations!  What 
terms  can  they  hope  to  receive  from  these  nations? 
Before  the  Ta  Ku  forts  were  taken,  Chinese  around  us 
were  terrific  in  their  anger.  Now  they  pretend  to  be 
friendly  and  cease  their  firing  upon  us.  This  seems  to 
be  done  to  save  themselves  after  they  see  that  they  can- 
not easily  destroy  foreigners  nor  make  them  give  up. 

No  new  patients  in  the  hospital.  All  are  cheerful, 
and  most  of  the  men  are  doing  well.  Let  us  hope  that 
no  more  of  our  brave  men  will  be  sacrificed.  The 
French  Minister  received  a  message  through  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen.  It  must  have  been  sent  by  his  Government 
about  the  fourteenth.  Mr.  Conger  prepared  a  second 
cablegram  to  be  sent  to  the  Department  of  State.  The 
French,  Russian,  and  English  Ministers  prepared  cable- 
grams and  asked  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  to  forward  them 
to  their  Governments.  The  Yamen  replied,  "We  sent 
the  American  Minister's  first  message  because  arrange- 


CHINA   AND  THE   POWERS         139 

ments  were  made  for  it.  We  cannot  send  more."  The 
Tsung  Li  Yamen  has  been  sending  messages  to  its  Min- 
isters in  foreign  countries  to  remain  at  their  posts  and 
hold  peaceful  relations  with  the  powers.  What  an  ab- 
surdity, when  they  have  ordered  the  Ministers  of  foreign 
countries  in  Peking  to  "  leave  in  twenty- four  hours." 
After  which  time,  they  "will  give  no  protection." 

Mr.  Conger  visited  the  Fu  and  all  the  Legations. 
The  German  Legation  has  suffered  greatly  from  shot  and 
shell,  and  the  French  still  more.  No  word  has  as  yet 
been  received  from  the  Peitang.  On  clear  days,  the 
cross  on  the  cathedral  stands  out  boldly.  It  must  be 
very  hard  for  the  people  there.  They  can  hear  nothing 
from  here  or  elsewhere,  and  cannot  know  the  situation. 
At  times,  we  have  thought  that  the  big  guns  were  turned 
upon  them,  but  could  not  know,  as  they  are  four  miles 
from  us. 

July  20.  Perhaps  our  much-looked-for  relief  can 
start  from  Tientsin  to-day. 

The  weather  is  unusually  fine.  Our  bomb-proof 
cellars  are  half  full  of  water,  but  we  have  not  been  obliged 
to  enter  them  as  yet. 

Well,  my  dear  nephew,  what  do  you  think  of  the  his- 
tory that  is  being  made?  Only  a  small  portion  of  it 
will  ever  be  handed  down  for  future  generations  to 
ponder. 

[To  a  Sister] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
August  7,  1  goo. 
THERE  is  great  excitement  inside  and  outside  of  Pe- 
king.   Edicts  from  the  Throne  have  been  sent  to  the 


Ho  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

different  Provinces  to  hasten  troops  in  defence  of  then- 
capital,  but  they  do  not  respond  freely.  Excuses  come 
from  the  South,  so  we  learn  from  Chinese  Gazettes,  of 
which  Dr.  Martin  has  succeeded  in  obtaining  thirty 
copies.  We  see  by  edicts  and  other  official  matter  that 
the  Government  has  been  in  sympathy  with  the  Boxer 
movement,  and  that  the  Empress  Dowager  seems  to 
have  "mothered"  it.  Now,  it  appears  that  the  move- 
ment has  been  too  much  for  the  Empress  Dowager,  as 
she  has  embittered  and  aroused  the  whole  world  against 
China.  It  occurs  to  me  that  the  translation  of  some  of 
these  edicts  would  be  of  interest  to  you. 


EDICT 

"Concerning  the  wretches  who  have  been  burning  houses, 
robbing,  and  killing  the  people  these  many  days,  they  have 
caused  this  region  to  be  all  in  disorder.  It  is  ordered  that  the 
Governor  General  and  Governors  and  the  high  military  offi- 
cials should  clearly  ascertain  the  circumstances  and  unite  in 
reducing  to  order  and  quiet  the  confusion,  and  root  out  the 
cause  of  the  disturbance.  Cause  all  places  to  know  this  gen- 
eral edict. " 

EDICT 

"They  also,  on  account  of  the  minds  of  the  people  in  the 
city  being  excited  and  the  difficulty  of  maintaining  a  complete 
defence,  discussed  with  the  various  foreign  Ministers  the  ques- 
tion of  detaching  troops  to  give  them  safe  escorts  to  Tientsin 
in  order  to  avoid  doubt  and  apprehension.  We  direct  the 
Grand  Secretary  Jung  Lu  to  select  in  advance  trustworthy 
civil  and  military  officers  of  high  rank  to  take  trusted  troops, 
and  when  the  foreign  envoys  have  fixed  the  date  for  leaving 
the  city  give  them  safe  conduct  on  the  road.  If  there  should 
be  evil  doers  who  lie  in  wait  to  plunder,  these  are  to  be  imme- 
diately killed.  Let  there  not  be  the  slightest  remissness. 
Before  the  envoys  leave  the  capital,  if  they  have  telegrams  to  send 
to  their  countries,  provided  they  are  not  in  code,  the  Tsung 


INCANTATIONS  OF   BOXERS        141 

Li  Yamen  is  promptly  to  arrange  the  matter  for  them  without 
delay.  This  will  exhibit  the  great  desire  of  the  Throne  to  treat 
the  people  from  afar  with  tenderness." 

EDICT 

"Of  late  there  have  been  in  the  neighborhood  of  Peking 
many  cases  of  wanton  robbery  and  murder  by  bad  characters 
feigning  to  belong  to  the  Boxers.  If  no  strict  distinction  is 
drawn,  internal  dissensions  will  be  added  to  foreign  trouble, 
and  the  state  of  the  country  will  be  indescribable.  Tsai  Husu 
is  ordered  to  keep  those  members  of  the  Boxers  who  have  made 
submission  under  strict  control,  and  expel  all  persons  pre- 
tending to  belong  to  it  as  an  excuse  for  raising  trouble.  All 
cases  of  gangs  collecting  to  commit  murder  from  motives  of 
vengeance  are  to  be  dealt  with  under  the  laws  against  brig- 
andage.   There  is  to  be  no  mercy  shown  to  further  disorders." 

The  Chinese  are  exceedingly  superstitious;  rumors 
say  that  Prince  Tuan,  the  father  of  the  heir  apparent, 
called  a  large  number  of  the  Boxers  to  his  palace  before 
the  final  outbreak,  to  see  them  go  through  their  surpris- 
ing and  wonderful  incantations.  He  was  persuaded 
that  they  were  sent  by  the  gods  to  save  China  from  the 
foreigners;  hence  he  presented  his  convictions  to  Her 
Majesty,  and  she  consented  to  witness  their  mesmeric 
power.  The  Empress  Dowager,  too,  was  persuaded 
that  they  were  sent  by  the  gods  to  save  China.  The 
Chinese  Empire  and  the  Boxers  joined  hands  to  fight 
the  outside  world  and  everything  foreign,  and  to  bring 
back  the  former  China  and  her  doings.  They  surely 
have  fought  frantically.  Impressed  as  were  the  Em- 
press Dowager  and  Prince  Tuan,  according  to  their 
superstitions,  they  were  compelled  to  heed  these  im- 
pressions or  the  gods  would  fiercely  rebuke  them.  Evi- 
dently there  is  a  division  of  opinion  in  the  Imperial 


H2  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Palace,  and  this  division  has  brought  about  two  factions. 
Since  we  have  been  in  this  confinement,  messages  have 
come  to  the  Ministers  signed  by  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  with 
official  covering  and  in  official  style.  Other  messages 
have  come  signed  "Prince  Ch'ing  and  others";  these 
did  not  bear  the  official  air  through  and  through.  These 
little  straws  signify  much  to  the  Ministers. 

All  is  quiet  now.  We  expect  our  troops  about  the 
twenty-eighth,  but  we  still  keep  our  barricades  in  repair 
and  build  them  higher  and  stronger. 

July  22.  Still  in  this  dreadful  confinement!  There 
has  been  very  little  firing  since  the  sixteenth.  Under 
cover  of  night,  the  Chinese  work  industriously  on 
barricades.  They  will  do  our  men  much  damage  if 
they  again  open  up  their  firing,  but  under  no  circum- 
stances shall  we  give  the  enemy  the  least  provocation  to 
begin  anew  their  devilish  work. 

Sir  Robert  Hart  comes  to  see  us  nearly  every  day, 
but  will  never  eat  one  morsel  of  our  food.  He  says  that 
he  must  eat  no  one's  food  but  his  own  these  times.  To- 
day he  talked  a  long  while  about  China  and  her  people. 
He  told  me  that  the  Boxer  movement  is  very  old,  and 
that  it  was  at  first  an  almost  purely  patriotic  movement, 
encouraged  and  supported  by  leading  people  in  China. 
He  also  thought  it  not  doomed  now;  it  is  so  deeply  rooted 
that  he  believes  it  will  have  a  long  future.  The  Chinese 
seem  to  act  as  though  they  thought  this  year's  labor  a 
struggle  for  their  existence.  The  edicts  emanating  from 
the  Throne  have  been  recklessly  daring.  This  year  has 
two  eighth  moons,  or  months,  and  superstition  says  that 
this  is  very  unfortunate  to  the  Throne.  Some  calamity 
is  to  befall  the  Empire  if  not  prevented  through  sacrifices. 


LETTERS   FROM   THE  YAMEN      143 

There  are  no  new  patients  in  the  hospital.  All  are 
doing  well. 

July  25.  Terrific  firing  again  about  two  o'clock  this 
morning.  This  is  the  first  great  firing  since  the  night 
of  July  sixteenth.  The  messenger,  disguised  as  a  fortune- 
teller, got  off  to-night  with  the  concealed  messages. 

July  26.  The  three  letters  from  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen 
were,  first,  an  invitation  to  the  Ministers  to  telegraph  to 
their  Governments  that  we  are ' '  all  well. ' '  They  state  that 
our  Governments  will  be  anxious  for  our  welfare.  These 
telegrams  must  be  written  in  full,  using  no  code,  and  must 
not  describe  the  situation.  Second,  they  advised  the 
Ministers  to  go  to  Tientsin,  and  offered  to  escort  them, 
as  they  were  not  sure  that  they  could  protect  them  in 
Peking.  They  are  trying  many  ways  to  get  us  out  of 
our  fortified  city.  The  third  letter  was  about  cable- 
grams. These  letters  were  of  little  value.  Later,  the 
fortune-teller  messenger  returned,  as  he  could  not  get 
beyond  the  Chinese  soldiers'  line.  As  yet,  the  messages 
are  not  on  their  way  to  Tientsin.  It  seems  almost 
impossible  to  get  any  word  to  or  from  the  outside 
world.  We  get  rumors,  but  do  not  know  how  much 
to  believe. 

I  still  visit  the  hospital  twice  or  more  each  day  I 
offered  to  nurse,  but  was  told  that  I  was  doing  my  duty 
in  my  present  capacity,  and  was  asked  to  continue.  I 
have  nothing  to  do  with  the  food  for  the  hospital  except 
to  furnish  from  thirty  to  forty  bottles  of  boiled,  filtered 
water  each  day.  Wang  and  the  cook,  under  my  super- 
vision, look  faithfully  to  preparing  and  delivering  this 
to  the  hospital.  They  never  complain,  and  more  trust- 
worthy servants  I  never  saw. 


i44  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

July  27.  Father  Conger's  birthday.  Dear  man! 
How  we  loved  him! 

A  man  representing  himself  to  be  a  Chinese  soldier 
has,  for  a  good  cumshaw,  been  communicating  with  the 
Japanese.  He  reports  the  progress  of  our  coming  troops; 
says  that  they  are  fighting  their  way  through  a  strong 
force  of  Chinese;  that  the  Chinese  are  fortifying  them- 
selves at  Tungchow;  and  that  forty  thousand  of  their 
troops  are  to  join  them  there,  and  have  taken  nine  big 
guns  with  them.    None  of  this  may  be  true. 

This  morning  Captain  Poole  took  us  through  the 
Hanlin  College.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest,  wealthiest, 
and  most  valuable  educational  institutions  in  all  China. 
This  compound  contained  one  of  the  most  valuable 
collections  of  treasures  and  records  in  Chinese  history. 
Some  of  these  dated  back  three  thousand  years.  The 
Chinese  themselves  burned  this  wonderful  college  with 
its  many  beautiful  buildings  filled  with  China's  choicest 
productions.  The  destruction  of  these  treasures  is  not 
only  a  calamity  to  China,  but  to  the  whole  world.  It  was 
set  on  fire  June  twenty-third  by  the  Boxers.  While 
visiting  the  ruins,  I  picked  up  fragments  of  books  and 
tablets.  It  made  me  heartsick  to  see  those  valuable, 
finely  wrought,  well-preserved  records  of  history,  quanti- 
ties of  them,  trampled  under  foot.  This  college  was 
twelve  hundred  years  old.  My  visit  to  its  ruins  was  a 
sad  one. 

July  28.  This  morning  the  little  beggar  boy  returned 
who  was  sent  out  as  a  messenger  July  fourth.  He  took 
a  letter  to  Tientsin.  He  went  as  a  beggar,  which  was  his 
profession  before  the  missionaries  took  him  under  their 
charge.     On  his  way  to  Tientsin,  he  was  captured  by  the 


RUINS  OF  LEGATIONS  145 

Boxers,  and  made  to  work  for  six  days.  His  progress  was 
interrupted,  but  the  little  fellow  succeeded  in  reaching 
Tientsin  with  his  message.  He  started  on  his  return 
trip  July  twenty-second  and  met  little  opposition.  I 
heard  the  boy  tell  his  story,  and  I  assure  you  it  was  of 
vital  interest.  He  said  that  our  troops  had  not  yet 
started  from  Tientsin.  The  letter  he  brought  to  us  is 
vague.  There  are  nineteen  hundred  of  our  troops  at 
Tientsin,  and  they  are  holding  the  city.  More  troops  are 
coming.  The  letter  did  not  indicate  when  they  would 
start  for  Peking. 

Captain  Myers  is  quite  ill  and  is  threatened  with  fever. 
He  was  moved  to  the  hospital  to-day,  and  we  are  anxious 
about  him.  Mr.  Conger  took  us  to  the  hotel  and  to  the 
French  and  German  Legations.  The  terrible  wreck 
of  these  places  is  exasperating.  The  hotel-keeper  and 
his  wife  have  done  much  effective  individual  work  at  the 
hotel.  They  have  turned  what  is  left  of  it  into  grist-mills, 
stables,  and  storehouses,  and  remain  there  themselves. 
The  upper  story  is  a  complete  wreck.  They  have  built 
a  barricade  of  great  strength  across  the  street.  We  went 
from  the  hotel  into  the  French  Legation.  Only  a  small 
corner  of  this  Legation  is  held  by  our  people;  the  rest  of 
it  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Chinese;  flames  and  mines  have 
of  late  made  it  a  sorry  place.  We  then  visited  the  Ger- 
man Legation.  Some  parts  of  it  were  beautiful,  but 
other  more  exposed  portions  were  literally  demolished. 
We  returned  to  our  besieged  home  with  much  accumulated 
food  for  heart  and  mind. 

After  our  round  of  duties,  we  attended  the  religious 
services  at  the  Russian  chapel.  The  Russian  Minister 
escorted  us  in.    This  was  the  first  service  of  the  Greek 


146  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

church  I  ever  attended.  The  people  stand  throughout 
the  services  and  seem  very  devout  in  their  worship  Al- 
though I  knew  not  one  word  they  uttered  or  sang,  I 
caught  much  of  the  spirit  of  the  occasion,  and  came  away 
with  one  rich  thought  to  enlarge  upon.  They  use  no 
musical  instruments  in  their  churches.  There  were 
about  twenty  singers  in  their  choir.  Before  singing,  the 
leader  would  give  the  key-note  from  which  each  one  was 
to  catch  his  higher  or  lower  note.  Each  listened,  looked 
strictly  to  the  leader,  and  caught  the  harmonious  key- 
note and  all  sang  together  in  sweet  harmony.  Why  do  we 
not  listen  more  diligently  and  attentively  to  catch  the 
harmonious  "key-note"  of  our  Leader,  our  Lord  and 
Master,  and  thus  make  our  different  tones  one  chorus  of 
sweet  harmony? 

Gifts  of  flour,  water-melons,  vegetables,  and  ice  have 
come  from  Their  Majesties.  We  are  using  all  but  the 
flour.  This  we  are  not  going  to  use  until  it  is  badly 
needed,  as  we  are  warned  against  it.  There  are  questions 
whether  or  not  there  could  be  a  plot  to  poison  us.  Mr. 
Conger  is  still  watchful  day  and  night.  He  always  visits 
the  chapel  and  bell  tower  on  his  return  from  the  Legation 
and  freely  gives  what  information  he  can.  Many  say 
to  me,  "Mr.  Conger  is  a  strong  support  to  us  all.  His 
judgment  we  can  trust,  and  his  good  cheer  has  power  in 
it."  He  often  says  that  we  must  not  be  impatient  for 
troops  to  arrive,  as  there  is  much  to  be  done  to  move  a 
large  army  in  a  strange  land  fortified  by  the  enemy. 

July  29.  Mr.  Nestergard,  the  insane  man  who 
escaped  from  us,  has  returned.  He  reports  harsh  treat- 
ment. We  cannot  tell  what  harm  or  good  he  has  done  us 
by  his  visit  into  the  enemy's  camp.    He  told  Dr.  Martin 


MESSAGE   FROM   TIENTSIN        147 

that  he  informed  the  Chinese  of  our  situation  in  order  to 
save  his  own  life,  and  that  he  assured  them  that  they  fired 
too  high  to  do  us  much  damage.  The  Chinese  are  building 
their  barricades  higher  so  as  to  be  able  to  fire  down  upon 
us.  It  makes  much  work  for  us,  as  our  barricades  must 
go  up  correspondingly  high.  A  reward  of  five  thousand 
dollars  was  offered  to  any  man  who  would  take  a  message 
to  our  coming  troops  and  bring  one  back  from  them. 

The  Chinese  were  seen  building  a  barricade  which 
would  give  them  command  of  the  canal  to  the  city  wall. 
The  Italian  big  gun  was  fired  at  the  builders.  A  reply 
came  back  and  shot  our  gunner  through  the  hand.  With 
a  glass,  the  Chinese  fortifications  can  be  seen  from  the 
second  story  of  our  office  building.  The  "Chinese 
officer"  reports  to  Japan's  Colonel  Shiba  that  our  coming 
troops  are  really  approaching  Peking.  He  reports  pro- 
gress from  time  to  time  for  three  hundred  dollars  each 
report.  A  messenger  was  despatched  to  the  troops.  The 
message  was  concealed  under  an  old  soiled  plaster  on  his 
stomach. 

July  30.  There  are  many  rumors  afloat.  Ten 
thousand  dollars  is  now  offered  by  the  Russian  bank  to 
any  messenger  who  will  take  a  message  to  our  coming 
troops  and  bring  an  answer  back  to  the  Ministers. 

A  letter  from  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  suggests  that  we 
let  the  native  Christians  out  into  the  city,  and  that  they 
will  be  cared  for  by  the  Government.  The  Yamen  does 
not  wish  to  have  us  burdened.  This  sounds  well,  but  we 
cannot  trust  these  promises. 

August  1.  Colonel  Shiba  received  a  message  from 
Tientsin  that  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  July  our  troops  had 
not  yet  started. 


148  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

Mr.  Conger  took  us  upon  the  city  wall.  Without 
seeing  it,  no  one  can  conceive  what  ingenious  work  has 
been  put  into  the  holding  and  strengthening  of  the  posi- 
tion on  that  wall.  It  is  marvellous!  The  deep  ditches 
and  high  barricades  silently  give  their  protection.  There 
are  many  loopholes  through  which  our  men  can  watch 
the  manceuvrings  of  the  enemy.  These  holes  are  not  the 
safest  places  in  our  besieged  quarters.  There  is  a  danger- 
ous one  at  the  top  of  the  ramp  leading  to  the  wall.  For 
some  time,  our  men  could  not  detect  the  position  of  a 
troublesome  sharpshooter.  Finally  they  discovered  a 
dark  spot  high  up  in  a  tree,  and  that  spot  at  once  fell. 

The  messenger  sent  from  the  Japanese  Legation 
returned,  but  would  not  answer  any  questions.  He  was 
in  Tientsin  three  days  after  the  letter  was  given  to  him  to 
bring  to  Peking.  He  would  not  take  pay  for  his  services. 
What  can  this  mean? 

More  calls  for  sand  bags  keep  coming  in.  We  made 
seventy  to-day  for  the  German  Legation.  The  marines, 
watching  continuously,  are  forbidden  the  privilege  of  doing 
anything  aside  from  eating  and  sleeping  when  off  duty. 
At  midnight,  when  Mr.  Conger  and  others  were  burying 
one  of  our  American  marines  who  had  fallen  in  our  de- 
fence upon  the  wall,  a  Russian  marine  was  passing  on  his 
way  to  his  rest.  He  halted,  then  stepped  to  the  open 
grave,  and  jumped  into  it.  With  care,  he  removed  every 
stone,  and  softened  this  marine's  last  resting  place  by 
pulverizing  the  soil.  Those  about  him  protested,  as  he 
needed  sleep.  But  he  said  feelingly,  "My  brother  on  the 
wall,"  and  continued  his  work  of  tenderness.  He  helped 
to  lower  his  comrade  into  the  grave,  then  smoothed  the 
flag  winding  sheet,  tucking  it  in  gently  at  head  and  feet, 


TROOPS  ON  THE  WAY  149 

while  he  continued  to  repeat,  "My  brother  on  the  wall." 
This  Russian  marine  did  not  leave  that  spot  until  a 
mound  rose  above  the  level  earth.  These  brothers  on  the 
wall  spoke  no  common  language  of  the  tongue,  but  they 
spoke  the  common  language  of  the  heart. 

We  have  just  learned  that  two  members  of  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen  have  been  beheaded;  one  was  friendly  to 
foreigners,  and  the  other  had  been  abroad.  It  seems  that 
they  are  doing  everything  to  weaken  their  own  Govern- 
ment. They  are  evidently  trying  to  cut  down  and  out 
every  person  and  thought  that  is  foreign,  but  this  is 
beyond  their  power. 

To-night  we  are  under  the  greatest  excitement.  Mrs. 
Lowry  received  a  letter  from  her  husband  at  Tientsin, 
and  she  unselfishly  read  it  to  a  gathering,  anxious  crowd. 
Five  messages  came  to  Mr.  Conger,  one  to  Captain 
Myers,  one  to  Sir  Robert  Hart.  All  rejoice!  Mr.  Con- 
ger, Laura,  and  the  staff  went  to  work  with  a  will  to  get 
the  messages  out  of  cipher.  As  fast  as  they  were  gotten 
out,  they  were  given  to  the  people  at  the  bell  tower. 
The  troops  must  be  on  their  way;  ten  thousand  for  ad- 
vance guard,  and  more  to  follow!  Mr.  Lowry  is  coming 
as  interpreter.  They  had  a  terrific  time  in  Tientsin, 
and  had  given  up  all  hopes  of  seeing  us  alive.  How  we 
do  rejoice  to  hear  something,  even  though  at  the  date  of 
the  messages  the  troops  had  not  started  from  Tientsin. 
How  we  pray  that  no  disaster  will  befall  them!  It  is 
very  late,  but  there  will  be  little  sleep  to-night. 

August  4..  More  edicts  have  been  translated,  and 
strange  ones  too. 

The  Ministers  held  a  meeting  to  consider  the  Tsung 
Li  Yamen' s  proposition  of  going  to  Tientsin.    They  let 


150  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

the  matter  of  asking  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  for  food  go 
over  to  another  time,  as  they  think  the  request  unwise 
until  it  is  actually  necessary.  Our  troops  are  too  near 
to  give  the  enemy  any  idea  of  our  weakness.  Another 
foreign  Ministers'  meeting  was  held  this  afternoon. 
These  meetings  to  consider  leaving  Peking  are  to  kill 
time,  as  the  Ministers  have  no  idea  of  going.  All  are 
sending  despatches  in  cipher  to  their  Governments 
through  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen. 

A  Chinese  soldier  said  to  our  men  to-day.  "Your 
troops  half-way  Peking.  Had  big  fight.  We  dead; 
you  live."    Which  meant  to  him  that  we  were  victorious. 

We  are  now  under  fire  all  day  and  all  night.  Our 
men  are  falling  and  our  hospital  is  filling.  Rumors  of 
our  troops  are  continually  coming  to  us,  and  we  weigh 
every  word  with  eagerness.  It  is  my  constant  prayer 
that  my  fear  may  not  overcome  my  loyalty  to  my  faith. 
These  are  testing  days.  A  telegram  came  to  Mr.  Conger 
bearing  the  Consul's  name  at  Canton,  China.  It  is  in 
Chinese  code  and  Chinese  politeness.  It  was  a  request 
to  give  a  statement  of  the  situation  in  Peking.  Mr. 
Conger  thinks  it  unwise  to  answer.  The  weather  is 
fine,  and  is  most  remarkable  for  Peking  at  this  season. 
The  evening  is  beautiful.  The  locusts  have  silenced 
their  shrill  songs,  and  the  Chinese  have  not  commenced 
their  threatening  noise.     This  quiet  is  rest. 

August  6,  Monday.  The  quiet  of  last  night  was 
broken  at  about  two  o'clock  when  the  firing  began  in 
earnest  and  the  battle  was  on.  This  was  the  hardest 
and  fiercest  since  the  night  of  July  sixteenth.  It  lasted 
about  thirty  minutes.  The  bell  in  the  tower  rang 
furiously.    All  were  on  watch. 


WAITING   FOR   RELIEF  151 

A  letter  from  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  to-day  stated  that 
they  regretted  that  the  foreign  troops  started  firing  upon 
their  troops  and  that  a  battle  ensued.  The  facts  are 
that  our  men  did  not  start  the  firing.  A  Chinese  barri- 
cade at  the  Fu  began  to  fall,  and  it  is  thought  that  the 
Chinese  took  fright,  supposing  that  the  " foreign  devils" 
were  after  them,  and  so  began  the  conflict.  The  attack 
started  at  the  Fu  and  extended  around  the  whole  line. 
Letters  frequently  pass  between  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  and 
the  foreign  Ministers.  After  visiting  the  hospital,  I  went 
to  see  the  American  Legation.  Wang  and  the  coolies 
got  some  ftangs  and  boards,  so  that  our  beds  are  no  longer 
on  the  damp  floors.  The  fleas,  flies,  and  mosquitoes  are 
in  swarms.  We  are  trying  to  clean  our  house  at  the 
Legation  somewhat  so  that  we  can  move  at  once  when 
our  troops  come,  as  the  British  will  need  their  Legation. 
I  have  spent  much  of  to-day  in  reading  and  writing. 

The  horses  are  decreasing  in  number;  our  rations 
are  getting  less.  However,  we  can  hold  out  still  longer. 
Mr.  Conger  was  consulted  again  to-day  in  regard  to 
asking  the  Chinese  Government  for  food.  He  thinks 
it  would  be  a  great  mistake  to  do  this,  as  it  would  weaken 
our  position  in  their  sight. 

There  was  an  auction  to-day  of  things  brought  into 
the  compound,  and  I  sent  Wang  to  get  what  our  servants 
needed.  We  went  the  rounds  of  the  British  Legation. 
The  work  that  has  been  done  is  wonderful. 


152  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

[To  a  Friend] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
August  13,  1  goo. 

IT  has  been  some  time  since  I  wrote  to  you,  and  it 
seems  much  longer  than  it  has  really  been.  I  am  now  hav- 
ing a  little  more  time  to  write,  and  not  one  moment  has 
been  lost.  My  thoughts  have  turned  lovingly  homeward. 
In  my  intense  desire  for  its  day  to  appear,  I  have  almost 
seen  the  mind's  wireless  telegraphy.  I  often  question 
why  we  so  tyrannically  limit  our  expression  of  thought. 

The  black  clouds  of  these  days  I  shall  not  try  to  de- 
pict to  you.  May  their  darkness  pass  away  and  show  a 
brighter  sky.  I  will  let  my  diary  tell  you  just  a  few  hap- 
penings that  you  may  see  a  little  of  the  situation  before 
our  allied  troops  arrive.     They  will  come! 

August  8.  Much  firing  during  the  night,  but  none 
of  our  brave  men  were  brought  to  the  hospital.  An- 
other night,  and  we  are  still  safe.  This  is  the  fiftieth 
day  of  the  siege.  Many  have  fallen,  and  forty  are  in  the 
hospital.  A  communication  from  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen 
informs  us  that  Li  Hung  Chang  has  been  appointed 
Plenipotentiary  to  consult  with  our  Governments  upon 
the  situation.  No  word  from  nor  of  our  coming  troops. 
We  hope  and  pray  that  our  Governments  will  not,  in 
believing  that  we  are  lost,  do  anything  to  retard  or  aban- 
don their  coming.  If  they  can  only  receive  the  cable- 
grams from  their  besieged  Ministers,  they  will  not. 

August  o.  Much  firing  in  the  night.  There  were 
several  attacks,  but  none  of  our  men  were  wounded. 
Most  of  the  patients  in  the  hospital  are  doing  well. 
Captain   Myers   is   very   ill.    Fine   weather   continues; 


MESSAGE  FROM  TROOPS  153 

it  is  not  hot,  nor  is  there  too  much  rain.  Great  sanitary 
care  is  taken.  Our  food  is  getting  low.  Let  us  not  lose 
trust  now  when  we  should  have  learned  to  have  more 
trust.  We  have  been  miraculously  saved  many  times 
during  these  past  weeks.  Dog  meat  has  been  served  to 
the  Chinese  to-day.  Heretofore,  horse  meat  has  been 
given  to  them.  For  the  coolies  at  the  Fu  a  food  has 
been  made  of  slippery  elm  leaves,  grains,  and  a  little 
meat  and  its  broth.  We  are  all  told  to  serve  short  ra- 
tions. No  messenger  came  to  take  messages  to  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen.  There  has  been  considerable  firing 
all  day,  but  no  battles.  Sir  Robert  Hart  brought  me  a 
poem  written  by  himself,  surely  a  choice  gift  in  the  siege. 
We  look  forward  to  his  eleven  o'clock  visits  with  great 
pleasure.     He  never  detains  us  in  our  work. 

August  10.  No  word  from  the  allied  forces.  Where 
are  they?  Rumor  says,  "On  the  way."  We  cannot 
believe  anything  unless  a  messenger  brings  the  word. 
A  Frenchman  was  badly  wounded  yesterday.  Captain 
Myers  is  getting  better. 

Later.  Messenger  returned  from  troops!  They  are 
on  their  way!  Coming,  coming,  "fifty  thousand  strong!" 
They  may  be  here  in  three  or  four  days.  Let  us  rejoice 
and  give  thanks! 

Four  despatches  came  to  Mr.  Conger.  One  was 
from  the  Department  of  State,  doubting  the  authen- 
ticity of  a  cablegram  they  had  received  from  him,  and 
asking  him  to  put  in  "sister's  name."  He  answered 
"Alta."    This  sister  lives  in  Washington. 

No  trouble  south  of  Chefoo.  The  Tsung  Li  Yamen 
was  asked  to  open  their  markets  to  us. 

August  11.    Am  spending  some  of  my  time  at  the 


i54  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

American  Legation,  as  it  is  quiet,  and  I  am  now  writing 
at  my  own  desk.  There  has  been  much  firing  to-day 
upon  this  Legation  from  the  high  tower  on  the  wall. 
One  ball  went  into  the  girls'  room  since  I  have  been  at 
my  desk.  I  picked  it  up  while  warm  and  shall  take  it 
to  them.  No  more  word  from  the  coming  troops.  Mr. 
Conger  sent  answers  to  his  despatches  through  the 
Tsung  Li  Yamen. 

August  12.  My  dear  mother's  birthday.  Blessed 
woman!  She  gave  much  sunshine  to  others,  and  the 
memory  of  her  warm  love  tells  us  that  the  sunshine  has 
not  lost  its  glow. 

There  was  much  firing  during  the  night.  One 
Frenchman  was  killed  and  one  Austrian  wounded.  More 
firing  to-day  from  every  side.  Last  night  the  Germans 
were  under  heavy  fire.  To-day  the  big  gun  on  the  wall 
near  the  Hatamen  boomed  several  times,  and  many  shots 
came  into  the  American  Legation.  Chinese  soldiers 
are  going  out  of  the  city.  Can  it  be  that  they  are  going 
to  meet  our  coming  troops  ?  Two  more  Frenchmen  have 
been  killed,  and  a  German  and  a  Russian  wounded. 
Thus  our  ranks  grow  less,  and  yet  we  do  not  lose  heart. 

The  Tsung  Li  Yamen  asked  an  audience  with  the 
Ministers  to  consult  upon  terms  of  amnesty.  Surely,  we 
are  at  war  only  to  save  our  lives.  When  they  do  not  fire, 
all  is  quiet;  we  fire  only  when  it  seems  very  necessary. 
Rumor  says  that  our  troops  are  not  far  off. 

August  13.  The  most  noisy  night  of  all.  One  con- 
tinued battle!  Every  man  is  watchful,  and  there  is  little 
sleep.  All  positions  have  to  be  guarded,  as  we  cannot 
tell  what  the  Chinese  are  planning  to  do.  The  most 
quiet  section  may  prove  to  be  the  most  dangerous  to  us. 


A  CHINESE  SCHOLAR  155 

Not  one  of  our  men  was  wounded  last  night.  Foreign 
Ministers  were  to  meet  members  from  the  Tsung  Li 
Yamen  at  eleven  o'clock,  but  word  came  that  they  had 
not  time  to  meet  the  Ministers  to-day.  They  regretted 
that  the  foreign  troops  had  fired  on  the  Chinese,  killing 
one  officer  and  twenty-six  men.  We  did  not  begin  the 
attack,  nor  did  we  keep  it  up. 

The  missionaries  are  looking  well  to  the  care  of  their 
Chinese  girls.  To-day  we  were  taken  through  their 
quarters.  These  Chinese  women  and  girls,  guided  by 
the  missionaries,  are  helping  in  many  ways. 

The  other  day  I  said  to  a  scholarly  Chinese,  "Will 
you  help  to  fill  these  sand  bags?"  He  replied,  "I  am  no 
coolie."  Then  I  in  turn  said,  "I  am.no  coolie  either,  but 
we  must  all  work  here  and  now.  I  will  hold  the  bag  and 
you  come  and  shovel  the  sand."  I  took  a  bag  and  a 
Russian- Greek  priest  stepped  forward  and  filled  it.  He 
spoke  no  English  and  I  no  Russian,  but  we  both  under- 
stood the  language  of  the  situation.  Other  people  rallied 
about  us,  and  we  soon  stepped  aside.  Our  work  was 
finished.  This  scholarly  Chinese  was  of  the  American 
Legation's  staff  helpers.  As  rank  is  so  respected  in 
China,  and  as  the  Chinese  do  not  wish  to  degrade  the 
ranks,  this  man,  from  his  point  of  view,  could  not  fill 
sand  bags.  Mr.  Conger  talked  with  him,  saying,  "Your 
life  as  well  as  ours  is  to  be  protected  here,  and  you  must 
do  your  part  or  we  cannot  feed  you."  The  man  was 
in  hiding  three  days.  As  our  coming  troops  did  not  come, 
and  he  was  near  to  starvation,  he  came  to  the  front,  willing 
to  do  what  he  could. 


156  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Niece] 

British  Legation,  Peking, 
August  14.,  1900. 

REJOICE!  All  nations  rejoice  and  give  thanks. 
Our  coming  troops  are  outside  of  the  city  wall.  We  can 
really  hear  them  firing!  What  a  happy  family  in  this 
Legation!  We  are  waiting,  and  have  learned  how  to 
wait.  And  yet,  we  cry  aloud,  "They  are  here!  Our 
coming  troops!  Rejoice!  Rejoice!"  Warm  clasp  of 
hands  and  eyes  full  of  tears  tell  better  the  language  of 
the  heart  than  words. 

Mr.  D.  came  over  from  the  American  Legation  and 
told  us  the  glad  news  at  two  o'clock  this  morning.  Ex- 
citement runs  high  as  we  listen  to  the  raging  battles 
outside.  We  are  trying  to  look  our  best  to  receive  and 
welcome  our  brave  rescuers.  There  are  cannons,  to  our 
knowledge,  stationed  on  the  city  wall  and  pointing  east  to 
fire  on  our  approaching  men.  How  we  hope  and  pray 
that  our  brave  men  will  succeed  in  getting  into  the  city 
without  bloodshed !  We  are  confident  that  they  will  come 
whatever  the  cost. 

During  the  entire  night  the  firing  upon  us  was  more 
fierce,  determined,  and  constant  than  at  any  time  before. 
It  seemed  as  though  the  enemy  would  break  through  our 
barricades  and  overwhelm  us.  Our  people  watched  and 
used  our  treasured  ammunition  more  freely  than  they  had 
dared  to  use  it  before.  Volley  upon  volley  from  the 
enemy's  smaller  guns  was  fired,  and  the  big  guns  on  the 
city  wall  and  on  the  Imperial  City  wall  boomed  their 
deadly  shells  into  our  midst.  Strange  work,  surely,  after 
what  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  sent  the  foreign  Ministers  in  a 


BRAVERY  OF  MARINES  157 

message  last  night,  "We  have  ordered  that  no  firing  shall 
go  from  our  men  during  the  night,"  etc.  This  only  shows 
their  cruel  treachery.  It  seemed  that  they  wished  to 
throw  us  off  guard  and  destroy  us.  They  knew  that 
our  allied  troops  were  near  the  city  wall.  We  have  never 
been  caught  napping  by  their  soothing  words. 

During  the  night,  men  from  the  Imperial  Customs, 
who  know  the  Chinese  language,  heard  the  Chinese  be- 
hind their  barricades  saying,  "Don't  be  afraid.  We  can 
get  in.  Come  on."  Another  said,  "Impossible,  we  can't 
do  it."  They  did  not  do  it.  Our  rapid-firing  guns, 
small  arms,  and  "International"  gun,  guided  by  our 
brave  men,  did  wonderful  work.  Our  Colts  Repeater 
stopped  the  firing  from  the  Imperial  City  wall.  All  com- 
bined fought  the  enemy  back  with  an  effective  will,  but 
our  brave  gunner  was  badly  wounded  in  firing  the  "Inter- 
national." It  is  a  crazy  little  thing,  and,  at  times,  refuses 
to  act  well  its  part  and  often  is  most  dangerous  to  its  near- 
est neighbor.  Our  sympathies  are  with  our  gunner,  who 
has  been  so  faithful  in  his  duties  all  through  the  siege. 
In  fact,  our  marines  as  a  body  have  been  brave,  faithful, 
and  untiring  from  beginning  to  end.  They  have  never 
faltered  even  when  standing  at  the  most  dangerous  post. 
The  city  wall  is  a  testing-place,  and  they  have  fought 
most  bravely  there  and  elsewhere.  Would  that  I  could 
sing  their  true  praises  so  loudly  that  the  whole  world  could 
hear  them,  and  so  sweetly  that  "Well  done"  could  be 
echoed  back  to  them! 

The  foreigners  in  our  besieged  city  of  Legations  are 
thoroughly  organized;  each  has  his  important  part  to 
perform;  all  recognize  this  and  work  accordingly.  The 
foreign  Ministers  are  at  the  head;   they  plan  the  steps 


158  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

taken  and  are  responsible  for  them.  The  staff  members 
of  the  Legations,  the  young  men  students,  the  customs 
people,  the  missionaries,  and  other  foreigners,  are  the 
executers.  They  form  committees  which  are  most  efficient 
and  harmonious  in  their  workings. 

When  Mr.  Conger  gave  his  answer  to  the  missionary 
who  asked  what  they  should  do  with  their  native  converts, 
he  knew  not  how  well  he  spoke.  He  said,  "Bring  them. 
I  do  not  know  how  we  can  feed  them,  but  they  will  surely 
lose  their  lives  if  they  do  not  come."  We  should  have  been 
lost  without  them;  they  are  our  manual  laborers.  They 
work  with  a  will,  and  do  the  part  that  no  foreigner  among 
us  could  do.  As  the  Ministers  have  their  Governments 
back  of  them,  they  can  speak  with  recognized  authority. 
With  united  thought,  they  watchfully  and  untiringly 
perform  their  responsible  labors.  All  the  Legation  and 
customs  people,  missionaries,  and  other  foreigners,  assist 
their  chiefs'  work,  either  as  volunteers  or  in  committees. 
Better  work  was  never  done.  There  are  superb  organ- 
izers among  the  missionaries.  They  know  the  Chinese 
and  their  language,  and  have  worked  day  and  night  with 
little  bands  of  Chinese  in  building  barricades  and  forti- 
fications, digging  ditches,  running  grist-mills,  looking 
after  sanitary  conditions,  filling  and  carrying  sand  bags, 
in  fact  doing  innumerable  necessary  things.  As  there 
were  no  foreign  laborers  in  this  siege,  these  Chinese 
Christians  did  the  work  that  otherwise  could  not  have 
been  done,  and  without  the  missionary  leaders  they  would 
have  been  unable  to  carry  it  to  a  success.  The  band  of 
women  have  not  fallen  behind  in  bravery,  endurance, 
good  cheer,  tenderness,  and  untiring  work  for  the  wounded 
and  sick;    nor  have  they  failed  in  performing  any  duty 


SELF-SACRIFICING  DEEDS  159 

that  women  can  do.  The  best  that  men  and  women  put 
into  this  siege  will  remain  unwritten. 

I  must  tell  you  about  our  servants.  Nine  of  them 
went  into  the  siege  with  us.  The  rest  fled.  These 
servants  are  not  all  Christians;  some  are  called  "heathen," 
but,  in  justice  and  truth,  I  must  say  that  I  never  saw  the 
Christ-spirit  manifested  more  beautifully  than  these  so- 
called  heathen  manifested  it.  Under  most  trying  cir- 
cumstances, they  were  patient  and  watchful  to  do  all  that 
they  could.  Our  head  boy,  Wang,  is  not  a  coolie,  but  he 
did  coolie  work  and  every  other  kind  of  work  most  at- 
tentively. Some  day  I  will  tell  you  in  detail  of  the  good 
deeds  of  our  servants  in  these  trying  times.  All  servants 
were  turned  over  for  general  work,  except  those  positively 
needed  by  their  masters.  A  record  of  each  individual's 
self-sacrificing  deeds  would  fill  pages.  To  single  out  the 
few  would  be  injustice  to  the  many.  Ofttimes,  those 
greatest  in  good  deeds  are  most  shrinking  in  proclaim- 
ing them.  The  workers  are  too  busy  to  question 
other  people's  actions.  Differences  of  opinion  yield  in 
these  days.  The  leading  thought  is  not  "Who  shall  be 
greatest?" 

We  have  been  up  and  striving  to  work  ever  since  two 
o'clock  this  morning.  We  are  watchfully  waiting  and 
listening  to  the  welcome  firing  of  our  brave,  strong,  allied 
troops  in  their  sure  coming.  I  try  to  write  a  while,  then 
try  to  do  something  else  in  my  waiting.  You  cannot 
know  our  feelings !  I  am  going  to  leave  you  now  and  —  well 
—  get  Wang  and  begin  to  get  ready  to  move  home! 
When  will  our  allied  forces  get  through  the  city  gates? 


160  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
August  19,  1900. 

ABOUT  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  August  four- 
teenth, the  British-Indian  troops  entered  the  Tartar  City 
through  the  Water  Gate,  and  into  the  Legation  they  came 
amid  the  cheers  and  rejoicings  of  the  besieged.  Others 
followed,  and  the  rejoicing  increased.  All  of  us  wel- 
comed those  British-Indian  soldiers  as  heartily  as  though 
they  had  been  of  our  own  nationality.  The  allied  army 
was  our  army.  General  Chaffee  with  his  artillery  and 
brave  men  opened  the  fortified  gates.  His  army  pressed 
forward,  scaled  the  walls  and,  without  faltering,  was 
among  the  first  in  helping  to  thwart  the  enemy  and  to  set 
the  captives  free.  What  a  day!  No  one  can  tell  it! 
We  had  been  waiting,  watching,  listening,  since  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning  for  the  appearing  of  those  broth- 
ers who  were  just  outside  the  city  walls. 

I  attended  to  my  allotted  duties,  then  tried  to  write 
our  glad  tidings  to  our  dear  ones.  I  abandoned  this 
effort,  and  began  to  move  home!  What  a  wonderful 
uplifting  came  with  these  words  —  "going  home."  Only 
think  of  it!  We  had  a  "home"  to  go  to.  The  mass  of 
our  siege  band  had  no  door  of  their  own  opening  for 
them.     But  I  cannot  write  the  intensity  of  that  day. 

The  allied  troops  have  taken  possession  of  the  cities. 
These  cities  are  divided  into  eight  sections.  Each  of 
the  eight  armies  is  apportioned  to  one  of  these  sections 
to  govern  as  its  very  own.  Our  servants  have  all  returned, 
and  we  have  moved  back  to  our  dilapidated  Legation 
home,  cleaned  it,  and  gathered  up  the  fragments.    Never 


Little  Paul  Wang 


"First  Boy"  Wang  and  His  Family,  Before  the  Siege 
Wang  and  His  Three  Children,  Rescued  After  the  Siege 


THE  ALLIED  TROOPS  161 

were  people  more  thankful  for  a  mansion  than  are  we 
for  this  shelter.  Our  house  is  full  to  overflowing,  and  we 
give  most  grateful  thanks  that  it  can  be  so.  Our  first 
boy,  Wang,  is  a  general  in  helping  us.  He  has  a  wife 
and  four  children,  two  boys  and  two  girls.  The  eldest 
boy  is  in  Tientsin.  His  wife  and  three  children  were 
out  in  the  city  during  the  siege,  he  knew  not  where. 
Their  house  was  looted,  then  burned,  and  for  seven  weeks 
they  have  been  wandering  beggars.  He  could  not  hear 
one  word  of  them.  On  the  fourteenth,  after  the  allied 
forces  had  come  in,  he  came  to  me  and  said,  "Madame, 
I  go  find  my  family."  After  a  few  hours,  he  came  back 
happy,  wife  and  children  safe  with  him.  The  children 
were  naked  and  the  wife  poorly  covered.  Their  story  is 
a  sorrowful  one. 

General  Chaffee  and  the  other  American  officers 
came  at  once  to  see  us.  General  Chaffee  warmly  greeted 
us  with  tears  in  his  eyes.  "We  heard  the  fierce  firing 
last  night,"  he  said,  "and  knew  that  you  were  still  alive. 
We  pushed  forward,  but  when  the  firing  ceased  for  a 
time,  we  were  sure  that  we  were  too  late,  that  all  was  over, 
that  you  were  massacred.  The  awful  thought  of  defeat, 
of  failure,  came  over  me.     But  it  was  not  defeat!" 

On  the  morning  of  the  fifteenth,  Mary  and  I  went 
upon  the  wall  and  to  the  Ch'ienmen  tower,  where  our  men 
with  artillery  were  firing  from  the  wall  upon  the  Forbid- 
den City.  The  yellow  tile  roofs  quaked  and  three  gates 
opened.  Five  of  our  brave  men  and  Captain  Riley  fell. 
The  sight  of  these  guns  bombarding  the  Forbidden  City 
gates  was  wonderful  to  us.  We  were  in  a  battle !  But  we 
were  free  and  felt  no  fear  with  our  own  American  soldiers. 
The  work  of  the  Chinese  upon  the  wall  was  beyond  our 


1 62  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

greatest  conception.  Barricade  after  barricade  was  strong- 
ly built  and  fortified  the  entire  way  to  the  Ch'ienmen 
tower.  They  were  digging  an  underground  channel  to 
blow  up  our  large  barricade  taken  the  morning  of  July 
third.  A  few  days  more  and  they  would  have  finished 
their  work.  The  sight  on  that  wall  and  the  city  from  it 
seems  like  a  terrible  nightmare.  We  see  the  city  in  ruins, 
all  about  us  —  ruin  wrought  by  the  Chinese  themselves. 

I  paid  my  usual  visits  to  the  hospital  to  see  the 
wounded  and  sick.  It  is  heartrending  to  see  them  suf- 
fering in  bondage  while  we  are  free.  Each  Legation  is 
preparing  to  take  care  of  its  own  people,  and  thus  relieve 
the  British. 

The  Ministers'  hands  are  full.  They  are  besieged 
with  important  work.  Missionaries  are  actively  striving 
to  find  quarters  in  which  to  gather  their  scattered  con- 
verts. The  missions  are  swept  entirely  away.  Even 
the  foundations  have  been  taken  up  and  carried  off. 
The  Chinese  have  striven  to  erase  every  landmark  of 
the  foreigner. 

The  Imperial  Court  left  the  city  through  the  north 
gate  the  morning  of  the  fifteenth.  The  armies  did  not 
pursue.  The  American  army  took  the  Temple  of  Agri- 
culture for  its  headquarters,  and  the  British  the  Temple 
of  Heaven  just  opposite.  Both  temples  are  in  the  Na- 
tive City.  The  Peitang  and  its  many  people  crowded 
together  were  not  completely  overcome.  They  fought 
an  awful  fight,  and  their  story  is  horrible.  We  could 
hear  nothing  from  them  during  the  siege  nor  extend  a 
helping  hand.  I  visited  the  brave  sisters  and  heard 
their  sad,  bitter  story,  and  saw  the  fearful  wrecks.  I 
cannot  write  details  now. 


Ch'ienmen  Tower 
The  Great  Temple  for  Imperial  Worship,  in  Temple  of  Heaven 


FOREIGNERS  IN  CONTROL         163 

On  August  sixteenth,  some  of  the  missionaries  in- 
vited me  to  go  with  them  to  a  large  palace  that  they 
thought  of  renting  if  possible,  for  their  mission  work. 
I  was  delighted  to  have  the  opportunity  to  enter  one  of 
these  Chinese  palaces.  We  were  shown  through  the 
many  buildings,  courts,  and  gardens.  We  came  to  one 
building  where  there  were  three  coffins.  We  were  told 
that  the  Chinese  ladies  were  greatly  terrified  by  the  actions 
of  the  Boxers  and  Chinese  soldiers,  and  when  the  for- 
eign soldiers  entered  the  city,  they  thought  the  most 
horrible  doom  was  theirs.  Many  committed  suicide, 
and,  in  this  palace,  four  Princesses  jumped  into  an  open 
well.  Three  were  drowned;  one  was  taken  out  alive. 
The  intense  sufferings,  sorrows,  and  sacrifices  befalling 
these  people  no  words  can  depict.  They  secretly  tell 
their  story  and  help  to  color  the  stream  of  time. 

I  have  been  too  busy  to  write  a  connected  letter.  A 
strange  panorama  with  new  and  almost  impossible  scenes 
is  rapidly  passing  into  our  lives.  Each  hour  is  filled  with 
awful  nightmares,  and  I  cannot  see  how  we  are  to  awake 
from  them. 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
August  20,  1  goo. 
WHAT  a  tangled  wilderness  of  ideas!  What  a  con- 
glomeration! Will  law  and  order  ever  come  out  of  it? 
What  an  unheard-of  situation!  There  are  eight  foreign 
armies  established  in  the  very  capital  of  China.  The 
Emperor,  Empress  Dowager,  Empress,  and  their  Court 
have  left  all  and  fled  to  parts  unknown.  China  is  with- 
out her  ruling  head. 


i64  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Mr.  Conger  and  I  took  a  ride  on  the  wall  around  the 
Tartar  City.  We  ascended  the  ramp  at  the  Ch'ienmen 
and  remained  on  the  wall  its  entire  length,  fifteen  miles, 
to  the  Hatamen.  The  sights  were  horrible.  The  best 
parts  of  the  Native  City  and  large  tracts  of  the  Tartar 
City  are  in  ruins.  The  streets  and  homes  are  deserted. 
Not  a  Chinaman  was  to  be  seen  except  as  he  wore  the 
colors  of  some  one  of  the  foreign  nations.  The  shops 
with  their  treasures  were  abandoned  by  their  owners. 
The  Boxers  first,  and  then  the  Chinese  soldiers,  took  what 
they  wished,  and  the  foreign  soldiers  culled  from  the  re- 
mains. From  the  wall  we  could  see  outside  as  well  as 
inside  of  the  city.  The  British  cemetery  is  totally  de- 
stroyed. The  monuments  are  broken  down,  the  graves 
opened,  the  wall  is  carried  away,  the  chapel  is  burned, 
and  the  large  trees  planted  by  the  British  are  sawed  off 
level  with  the  ground  and  carried  away.  Trees  of 
native  planting  remained  everywhere  untouched;  those 
of  foreign  planting  were  destroyed.  By  courtesy  of  the 
British,  Americans  were  buried  in  this  cemetery.  Calm 
reigned  everywhere.  Where  had  that  awful  tumult 
gone  —  and  the  people  who  made  it  ? 

Many  countries  here  represented  recognize  spoils  of 
war.  Our  Government  does  not.  It  claims  that  it  was 
not  warring  upon  China;  that  it  sent  its  armies  to  re- 
lieve and  protect  the  besieged  foreigners  in  North  China. 
Our  Government  has  issued  strict  orders  against  all 
looting. 

Our  house  is  full  of  people;  we  have  sixteen  or  eigh- 
teen at  the  table  each  meal.  The  American  officers  we 
also  welcome  to  our  home.  Our  gratitude  to  them  for 
their  long  forced  marches,  their  sufferings  and  sacrifices 


RUINS  OF  THE   PEITANG  165 

made  to  relieve  our  direful  situation,  is  unbounded.  The 
first  convoy  of  foreigners,  forty  in  number,  left  this  morn- 
ing for  Tientsin.  All  started  from  the  American  Legation. 
There  is  a  telegraph  line  between  Peking  and  Tientsin 
established  by  British  and  American  armies.  It  is  often 
cut,  but  is  soon  repaired  and  in  constant  use.  The  office 
is  here  in  our  Legation.  All  the  eight  armies  work  har- 
moniously together;  but,  when  in  foreign  countries,  the 
British  and  Americans  are  considered  almost  as  one 
people.  We  often  hear  it  said,  "You  think  alike,  you 
speak  alike,  and  you  act  alike." 

Many  Chinese  are  coming  to  Mr.  Conger  for  protec- 
tion and  assistance.  He  never  turns  them  away  without 
hearing  their  story  and  helping  them  if  he  can.  A  little 
paper  from  him  often  protects  their  goods  and  provisions 
from  confiscation  and  enables  the  owner  to  sell  them. 
Every  foreigner  in  trouble  is  turned  over  to  his  own 
countrymen,  but  the  Chinese  have  no  one  to  whom  they 
can  appeal. 

August  23.  German  troops  came  to-day,  also  more 
American  cavalry,  numbering  about  three  hundred. 
These  Germans  and  this  cavalry  did  not  reach  Tientsin 
in  time  to  join  the  allied  forces  in  their  march  to  Peking. 

August  24.  You  see,  I  am  writing  just  a  little  as  I 
find  time.  Mr.  Conger  has  his  hands  more  than  full. 
General  Chaffee  ordered  his  large  four-mule  ambulance 
and  an  escort  of  twenty-four  cavalrymen,  and  took 
Laura,  Mary,  and  me  to  the  Peitang,  through  the  Im- 
perial City,  and  to  Coal  Hill.  At  the  Peitang,  we  were 
graciously  received.  The  sisters  and  helpers  showed  us 
through  the  grounds  and  buildings.  The  whole  mission 
is  a  terrible  wreck.    Its  condition  cannot  be  truthfully 


166  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

described.  Five  mines  were  planted  and  fired  under  them. 
The  first  was  immense;  it  blew  up  and  buried  seventy 
children,  killing  them  all.  The  others  caused  great 
damage  and  loss  of  life.  Not  any  of  the  sisters  were 
injured,  although  the  house  they  occupied  was  destroyed 
by  shells  and  mines.  The  French  and  Italian  Legations 
sent  guards  to  help  protect  the  Peitang  at  the  beginning 
of  the  siege.  There  is  not  one  room  in  the  whole  com- 
pound that  is  not  injured ;  and,  with  one  or  two  exceptions, 
they  are  not  fit  to  occupy.  Thousands  of  bullet  holes  are 
in  the  fine  windows  of  the  beautiful  cathedral,  and  shells 
show  their  marks  everywhere.  The  large  organ  is  shot 
through  and  through.  During  the  siege  this  cathedral 
was  a  shelter  for  hundreds  of  homeless  Chinese,  and 
many  still  take  refuge  here.  Their  food  got  very  low  and 
their  suffering  was  great.  Our  hearts  went  out  to  them 
from  the  British  Legation  and  we  tried  to  send  messages, 
but  we  never  succeeded. 

Monsieur  Favier  said  to  us,  "The  first  flag  I  saw  with 
my  telescope  was  the  American  flag,"  He  stood  the 
siege  like  a  hero,  and  the  sisters  were  true  heroines.  The 
Sister  Superior  was  buried  yesterday.  She  did  not  fall 
until  her  siege  work  was  finished.  Sister  Angel  was  kind 
to  us,  and  so  were  the  others.  We  left  our  good  wishes 
with  these  brave  people  and  drove  into  the  Imperial 
City  and  up  to  Coal  Hill  and  the  first  pagoda.  We 
walked  to  the  other  two  pagodas.  The  view  was  fine 
from  this  height.  It  was  our  first  visit  to  this  hitherto 
forbidden  spot. 

Congratulatory  cablegrams  and  telegrams  from  many 
parts  of  the  world  are  bringing  their  rich  messages.     Our 


DESPATCH   FROM   PRESIDENT      167 

President  McKinley,  in  the  fulriess  and  broadness  of  his 

big  heart,  sends  the  following: 

^Washington. 
"Conger,  American  Minister, 

Peking. 
"The  whole  American  people  rejoice  over  your  deliverance; 
over  the  safety  of  your  companions;  of  our  own  and  of  the 
other  nations  which  have  shared  your  trials  and  privations; 
the  fortitude  and  courage  which  you  have  all  maintained,  and 
the  heroism  of  your  little  band  of  defenders.  We  all  mourn 
for  those  who  have  fallen,  and  acknowledge  the  goodness  of 
God,  which  has  preserved  you  and  guided  the  brave  army  that 
set  you  free.  William  McKlnley." 


[To  a  Sister] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
September  13,  igoo. 

STRANGE  things  happen  here.  The  encouraging 
and  discouraging  events  follow  one  another  so  closely  that 
they  almost  seem  to  go  hand  in  hand.  There  are  some 
awful  things  happening  as  the  fruits  of  war.  Armies 
bring  not  only  blood  stains,  but  heart  stains. 

Dr.  Leonard  has  just  been  in.  She  brings  most 
horrible  word  from  Paoting  Fu.  All  missionaries  there 
and  in  that  locality  have  been  most  cruelly  persecuted  ana 
massacred,  as  have  also  native  Christians  and  others  who 
have  shown  friendship  for  the  foreigners.  Most  heart- 
rending reports  are  coming  in  from  different  quarters. 
We  fear  that  not  the  half  has  been  told.  What  can  it  all 
mean  ?  I  cannot  believe  that  all  this  unselfish,  steadfast, 
sacrificing  work  of  love  in  China  can  be  for  naught.  It 
may  be  that  these  unheard-of,  undreamed-of  cruelties 


168  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

will  revolutionize  mission  work  here  and  at  home.  The 
deep  thinkers  for  right  and  for  the  spread  of  "love  to 
God  and  good  will  toward  men"  will  work  as  never  before 
to  solve  the  question  of  Christian  duty. 

The  awful  treachery  and  base  cruelty  of  the  Chinese 
high  officials  and  the  people  governed  by  them  are  with- 
out a  parallel.  Can  we  ever  forgive  and  forget?  The 
Christ-spirit  alone  can  help  us.  What  is  it  in  the  mortal 
that  gets  so  angry,  so  revengeful,  so  furious,  as  to  want  to 
torment,  to  kill,  to  destroy?  The  Chinese  in  this  fired 
consciousness  have  made  most  costly  sacrifices.  There 
was  no  method  in  their  madness.  In  their  frantic  raids 
upon  us,  our  watchful,  well-organized  men  would  pour 
such  volleys  into  their  midst  that  they  would  be  obliged 
to  retreat,  or  every  man  of  them  fall.  Our  brave  men! 
How  they  did  watch  and  work,  day  and  night,  every  hour, 
and  every  moment  of  the  hour!  The  raging  tempest  was 
terrifying,  but  God  smiled  even  amid  the  frowns  and 
storms  of  men.  Through  our  watchful  trust,  we  saw  those 
smiles.  Frown  for  frown  will  never  clear  the  atmosphere. 
It  is  the  good  will  and  the  love-thought  rising  above  it  all 
that  enables  us  to  see  the  clear  sky.  We  did  watch,  pray, 
and  trust,  and  in  that  awful  darkness  we  did  feel,  even 
though  we  could  not  see,  God's  hand  guiding  us. 

I  am  sometimes  asked,  "  During  the  siege,  who  did  the 
best  work?  —  what  nation?"  Those  in  that  awful 
siege  knew  no  nationality.  We  were  one  people.  The 
allied  army  coming  to  us  was  "our  army."  It  was  truly 
welcomed  as  "our  army"  —  "our  rescuers"  —  on  that 
blessed  morn.  Gratitude  to  the  dear  Father  barred  the 
door  against  the  wrangling,  "Who  shall  be  greatest?" 
All  did  the  best  they  could,  and  that  siege  brought  under 


TEMPLE  OF   HEAVEN  169 

one  heart-beat  the  nations  of  the  world.  That  heart-beat 
had  enough  of  the  flowing  Christ-blood  to  keep  it  alive. 
Thought  was  focussed  on  China  in  those  dark  days,  and 
jewelled  blessings  of  loving  prayers  for  the  besieged  were 
not  lost.     They  sparkled  with  us. 

Prince  Ch'ing  fled  with  the  Imperial  Court,  but  re- 
turned to-day  and  went  to  his  palace,  which  is  protected 
by  soldiers ;  but  the  whole  city  about  him  is  in  ruins.  The 
Emperor,  Empress  Dowager,  Empress,  and  their  Court, 
are  still  in  hiding.  Li  Hung  Chang  is  on  his  way  to 
Tientsin.  There  are  about  fifty  thousand  foreign  troops 
here  now,  and  still  they  come. 

September  4..  The  Russian  Minister  has  been  ordered 
by  his  Government  to  move  his  Legation  to  Tientsin. 
It  is  published  that  a  reward  of  fifteen  dollars,  and  twenty 
dollars,  and  fifty  dollars,  is  offered  by  the  viceroy  of  this 
Province  for  the  heads  of  foreigners.  Prince  Ch'ing  is 
with  Sir  Robert  Hart  to-day. 

Foreigners  can  enter  many  places  in  Peking  that  have 
heretofore  been  locked  and  barred  against  them.  One 
of  these  places,  the  Temple  of  Heaven,  we  have  visited. 
Can  it  be  that  I  have  really  entered  that  forbidden  spot 
which  I  have  viewed  from  afar  and  longed  to  enter?  It 
is  imperial  in  its  grandeur.  There  are  three  beautiful 
temple  buildings,  besides  buildings  and  furnaces  for  burnt 
offerings,  and  many  Imperial  buildings  which  the  Emperor, 
his  Court,  and  escorts  occupy  when  there.  The  largest 
and  finest  of  these  temple  buildings  is  for  the  "  Ruler  of 
the  Universe."  The  Emperor  of  China,  the  "Son  of 
Heaven,"  bows  at  fhis  shrine  and  offers  many  burnt 
offerings.  The  Emperor  has  forsaken  his  god  at  this 
temple  and  fled  far  away.    The  vast  Imperial  grounds 


iyo  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

of  the  Temple  of  Heaven  are  headquarters  for  the  British 
army.  Through  the  kindness  of  the  British  officers,  we 
have  been  permitted  to  visit  every  part  of  this  beautiful 
temple.  The  buildings  for  preparing  the  burnt  offerings 
and  furnaces  for  consuming  them  add  another  strange  open 
book,  explaining  Bible  days.  The  Temple  of  Heaven  is 
wonderful  in  its  magnitude,  extreme  beauty,  and  extrava- 
gant richness.  I  am  now  permitted  to  wander  through 
these  grounds  and  buildings  at  my  will.  Sacrilegious, 
you  say  ?  We  will  not  contend.  The  Temple  of  Agricul- 
ture is  headquarters  for  the  American  army.  Our  home 
people  have  made  this  —  China's  holy  place  —  very 
familiar  to  us. 

The  city  is  a  strange  sight,  changed  as  it  is  by  the 
events  of  the  past  year.  It  is  under  foreign  military  rule, 
forsaken  by  the  natives,  and  ruined.  The  armies  sweep 
the  streets  clean. 

The  British  Legation  is  a  sorry  sight.  It  was  a  home 
for  many  during  those  trying  days,  and  thousands  of  sand 
bags  were  filled  from  its  gardens.  All  the  unnecessary 
walls  were  pulled  down,  and  brick  walks  were  torn  up, 
for  barricades.  Lady  MacDonald  was  a  most  kind 
hostess  and  all  her  Legation  people  fell  in  line  to  help  her. 
Grateful  hearts  sing  their  praises. 

September  10.  The  bugle  calls  are  sounding  night 
and  day.  While  we  rejoice  in  their  stirring  melody, 
they  bring  to  mind  a  strain  of  sadness.  General  Chaf- 
fee says  that  he  has  a  band  out  from  Tientsin,  and  he 
hopes  that  it  will  give  us  pleasure.  With  a  permit  from 
General  Chaffee,  officers  took  Laura,  Mary,  and  me 
through  the  Forbidden  City.  The  real  Forbidden  City! 
These  officers  ordered  opened  many  buildings  and  pri- 


Bronzes  in  the  Forbidden  City 


THE   FORBIDDEN  CITY  171 

vate  rooms  of  the  Emperor,  Empress  Dowager,  and 
Empress,  and  we  passed  through  them.  We  saw  many 
elegant  furnishings  of  the  Court;  jades,  porcelains, 
brass,  ivory,  lacquer,  bronze,  wood  carving,  immense 
mirrors,  brilliant  decorations,  embroidered  hangings, 
fine  large  rugs,  and  objects  of  beauty  that  I  cannot  name. 
These  are  collections  of  the  most  precious  Chinese 
treasures.  New  scenes  opened  our  eyes  in  great  sur- 
prise. Large,  gorgeously  decorated  throne  buildings, 
with  their  costly  thrones,  and  many  other  buildings  with 
their  beautiful,  valuable  treasures,  were  opened  to  us. 
Their  Majesties,  their  Court,  and  their  high  officials 
had  never  before  even  suggested  to  the  foreigners  that 
China  had  such  wealth  stored  from  view  behind  her  high 
walls.  The  Japanese  and  Americans  are  protecting 
these  treasures  from  vandalism.  The  front  entrance 
to  the  Forbidden  City  is  through  many  gates  to  the 
south.  All  the  important  buildings  face  the  south. 
The  bronze  urns,  incense  burners,  caldrons,  deer,  storks, 
dragons,  and  other  ornaments  in  the  Palace  courts,  are 
exquisitely  fine.  Not  a  thing  was  molested  in  these  halls, 
private  buildings,  or  grounds.  Beautiful  things  were 
standing  around,  holding  their  proper  places. 

For  some  reason  the  Chinese  are  opening  their  shops 
in  the  Japanese  quarters  and  not  in  the  other  parts  of 
the  city.  Many  are  even  moving  back  and  placing 
themselves  under  the  protection  of  the  Japanese.  When 
Mr.  Conger  and  I  rode  on  the  city  wall  around  the 
Tartar  City,  we  saw  much  of  the  destruction  by  Boxers, 
Chinese  soldiers,  and  foreign  troops.  The  Chinese 
made  great  preparation  during  the  siege  to  fortify  the 
west    and    north    against    successful    invasion.     Many 


172  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

large  cannon  and  smaller  guns  were  in  position  on  this 
part  of  the  city  wall.  When  the  foreign  troops  came  in 
at  the  east,  the  Chinese  troops  fled  and  left  all.  The 
Chinese  had  made  little  preparation  against  attacks  from 
the  east,  hence  the  slight  resistance,  except  to  the  north- 
east, where  the  Japanese  entered.  To  the  west  and  north 
are  the  gates  nearest  the  Imperial  City  through  which 
the  Emperor,  Empress  Dowager,  Empress,  and  their 
Court  departed  on  the  morning  of  August  fifteenth. 
They  left  in  a  simple  way,  using  Peking  carts  and  ponies. 
The  soldiers  on  the  wall  ran,  leaving  their  many  big  guns, 
their  small  arms,  swords,  flags,  clothing  —  everything. 
Their  tents  were  still  standing,  and  under  them  were 
their  brick  frangs  with  arrangements  for  building  fires 
beneath.  It  is  midsummer.  Can  it  be  that  they  thought 
of  keeping  us  in  confinement  until  the  cold  of  winter  was 
upon  us?  The  teapots  and  cups  were  standing  on 
stools  and  k'angs,  just  as  though  they  were  using  them 
when  the  danger  alarm  was  sounded. 

The  Observatory  and  Examination  Halls  have  not 
been  destroyed.  .  These  astronomical  instruments  have 
stood  in  their  stately  glory  through  the  flashing,  thun- 
dering, pouring,  and  almost  tornado  storms  of  four 
centuries.  It  would  seem  cruel  for  anything  to  move 
them  from  their  sentinel  watch.  As  we  came  to  this 
spot,  so  dear  to  me,  we  dismounted  and  climbed  up  to 
these  instruments.  They  stood  so  high  and  proud  on 
the  east  wall  that  our  allied  forces  made  a  target  of  them, 
but  only  a  few  shot  and  shell  left  their  awful  marks. 
These  fine  old  instruments,  standing  above  and  below, 
show  no  wear  of  time,  although  centuries  have  passed 
over  them.    They  are  like  China  herself;  and  if  let  alone 


DEARTH   OF  SUPPLIES  173 

they  will  stand  upon  their  dragon  thrones  for  centuries 
to  come. 

[To  a  Niece] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
September  28,  igoo. 

THINGS  seem  uncertain  here.  The  Autumn  is  pass- 
ing and  the  Winter  is  fast  coming  on  with  its  bars  of  ice 
shutting  the  doors  to  the  outer  world.  The  five  thou- 
sand camels  with  loads  of  coal  are  not  coming  into  the 
city  daily,  nor  even  at  all,  as  they  formerly  came.  The 
question  of  fuel  for  the  winter  is  a  serious  one.  Neces- 
sities bring  high  prices  now,  and  what  they  will  bring 
before  the  Winter  is  over  can  only  be  guessed.  You 
cannot  conceive  how  difficult  it  is  to  obtain  things  to 
eat,  to  wear,  to  furnish  our  empty  homes  comfortably. 
Everything  went  from  our  homes  into  the  general  fund 
during  those  darkest  days,  and  it  is  difficult  to  replace 
even  the  things  most  needed.  General  Chaffee  received 
orders  not  to  get  over  thirty  days'  supplies.  It  looks  as 
though  we  might  be  ordered  from  here  before  the  Winter 
opens. 

The  Russian  Minister  with  his  Legation  has  not  yet 
left  for  Tientsin.  He  is  waiting  further  orders.  The 
German  Legation  is  ordered  to  leave  with  the  other  Lega- 
tions. No  one  seems  to  be  moving.  It  must  be  that  the 
powers  are  consulting  in  regard  to  the  situation.  There 
is  much  guessing,  but  nothing  known.  We  are  packed 
and  ready  to  move  on  short  notice. 

September  16.  A  party  of  British  and  Americans 
went  out  to-day  on  an  expedition  to  the  Western  Hills 
and  other  parts,  to  scatter  the  Boxers  who  are  said  to  be 


i74  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

rallying  at  those  points.  They  took  cavalry,  infantry,  and 
artillery,  and  expect  to  be  gone  about  four  days. 

September  17.  Dr.  Morrison  returned  from  the  West- 
ern Hills  and  reports  that  the  temples  were  taken.  They 
routed  about  six  hundred  Boxers  without  resistance. 
The  Boxers  left  carts,  mules,  guns,  swords,  spears,  am- 
munition, clothes  —  everything,  as  they  were  taken  by 
surprise. 

September  18.  Part  of  the  expedition  to  the  West- 
ern Hills  has  returned.  The  British  remained,  as  they 
wished  to  burn  the  temples.  Our  General  Wilson  would 
not  listen  to  the  proposition  of  destruction ;  he  consented 
only  to  the  capture  of  arms  and  ammunition.  We  expect 
to  hear  of  the  temples  in  ruins. 

September  23.  Mr.  Conger  and  I  took  a  long  walk 
to  see  the  effects  of  the  siege  upon  the  surroundings 
beyond  our  own  fortifications.  The  Chinese  had  built 
barricade  after  barricade.  Why  did  they  fear  us  ?  Their 
fears  and  superstitions  evidently  kept  them  from  coming 
right  in  upon  us.  We  saw  the  places  where  they  planted 
their  big  guns.  They  made  great  preparation,  then 
failed  to  use  the  results  of  their  labors.  The  platforms 
built  inside  the  Imperial  City  wall  for  their  cannon  were 
wonderfully  large  and  strong,  and  yet  our  firing  into  their 
portholes  made  their  gunners  flee  and  stopped  the  can- 
nons' mouths. 

We  visited  the  Imperial  carriage  park  and  elephant 
stables,  which  are  now  occupied  by  the  British.  The 
chariots  and  chairs  are  extremely  gorgeous  and  massive. 
The  gold,  silver,  embroidered  yellow  satin,  yellow  silks, 
and  brilliantly  decorated  elephant  trappings  are  simply 
beyond  description.     Seventy-five  years  ago  these  chariots 


CHANGE  AMONG   DIPLOMATS     175 

were  drawn  by  elephants  with  the  richest  of  decorations. 
The  chairs  were  carried  by  many  men.  The  stables  are 
large  buildings,  with  yellow  tiled  roofs  and  other  Imperial 
ornamental  colorings. 

Some  people  feel  very  revengeful  and  cry  out  against 
showing  mercy  to  the  Chinese.  They  say,  "Burn  every 
town  and  village!"  This  seems  like  an  "eye  for  an  eye 
and  a  tooth  for  a  tooth."  We  should  not  sting  ourselves 
with  our  own  malice;  we  should  pluck  it  out  and  cast  it 
away.  It  is  true,  the  cruelty  of  the  Chinese  toward  the 
foreigners  has  been  extreme,  but  the  Chinese  wish  to  be 
let  alone  in  their  own  land.  When  will  this  dark  cloud 
scatter  and  let  in  the  bright  sunshine,  so  that  we  may  see 
the  outcome? 

We  learn  that  Sir  Claude  MacDonald  is  to  go  to 
Japan;  that  Sir  Ernest  Satow  is  to  come  here.  We 
deeply  regret  losing  Sir  Claude  and  Lady  MacDonald. 

Li  Hung  Chang  is  still  in  Tientsin;  rumors  say  that 
he  is  detained  there  by  one  of  the  foreign  Governments. 

September  28.  It  looks  as  though  our  Government 
were  expecting  its  Minister  to  remain  here  in  Peking. 
We  are  all  packed  to  go  at  once,  if  necessary.  Four  of 
the  Governments,  Russia,  Germany,  France,  and  Hol- 
land, have  ordered  their  Ministers  to  leave  Peking. 

A  cablegram  received  to-day  orders  our  marines  and 
the  Fourteenth  Infantry  from  Peking  to  Manila. 

Our  awful  experiences  have  taught  us  how  to  be 
thankful,  and  we  give  thanks  that  we  have  this  home, 
bare  as  it  is,  for  ourselves  and  for  others.  You  may  not 
hear  from  us  often,  as  our  every  moment  is  full. 


176  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

[To  a  Niece] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
September  30,  igoo. 

THE  siege  is  raised  and  we  are  energetically  free. 
While  we  rejoice  over  our  freedom,  we  are  not  unmindful 
of  the  price  paid  for  it.  Many  lives  were  most  cruelly 
sacrificed,  and  we  sorrowfully  lament.  The  allied  armies 
are  here  and  occupy  not  only  the  city  but  the  surround- 
ing country. 

I  am  not  going  to  write  the  things  that  you  learn  from 
other  sources,  but  mostly  those  things  that  have  come  into 
my  personal  experience.  I  am  improving  the  oppor- 
tunities to  visit  and  learn  about  the  hitherto  forbidden 
places.  Poor  China!  Why  cannot  foreigners  let  her 
alone  with  her  own?  China  has  been  wronged,  and  in 
her  desperation  she  has  striven  as  best  she  could  to  stop 
the  inroads,  and  to  blot  out  those  already  made.  My 
sympathy  is  with  China.  A  very  unpopular  thing  to  say, 
but  it  is  an  honest  conviction,  honestly  uttered.  Even  the 
Chinese  soldier  was  true  to  his  gods.  On  the  city  wall 
we  saw  standing  many  shrines,  simple  and  small,  yet 
complete  in  detail. 

Mr.  Conger  and  I  visited  the  Red  Cross  hospital,  which 
is  under  the  auspices  of  the  Russians.  The  locality  and 
entire  compound  are  very  desirable.  The  buildings  are 
new,  large,  and  comfortable,  and  are  owned  by  a  wealthy 
Manchu.  We  went  from  here  to  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen. 
Here  we  sat  around  the  table  where  the  Chinese  officials 
received  the  foreign  Ministers  in  consultation,  and  where 
it  was  arranged  to  massacre  all  the  foreign  Ministers  on 
June  twentieth,  when  they  should  meet  in  session  on  that 


RUIN   AND   LOOT  177 

day.    The  enraged  mob  could  not  wait,  and  Baron  von 
Ketteler  was  sacrificed;   the  others  were  saved. 

We  were  shown  through  the  different  buildings  and 
on  into  the  Imperial  College.  Everything  is  in  ruins. 
Dr.  Martin  has  been  the  respected  foreign  President  of 
this  college  for  twenty-nine  years.  It  is  sad  indeed  to  see 
so  much  destruction  of  what  was  the  pride  of  this  long- 
lived  nation.  These  time-honored  treasures  and  native 
productions  were  not  only  of  value  to  China,  but  to  the 
whole  world,  and  the  whole  world  will  mourn  their  loss. 
China  did  worse  than  she  knew. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
November  16,  igoo. 

THERE  is  no  Chinese  Government  here  to  hold  the 
Chinese  or  the  foreigner  to  law  and  order.  The  Throne  is 
empty.  Every  nation  represented  here  is  standing  on  its 
honor.  Each  one  is  acting  for  itself,  and  no  other  nation 
can  say,  "Hold";  "Stop";  "Going  too  far."  One  of 
the  most  heartrending  acts  to  me  is  the  removing  and 
carrying  away  of  the  exquisite  bronze  instruments  at  the 
Peking  Observatory.  These  old,  historic  treasures  were 
more  than  valuable  and  beautiful.  They  have  stood  on 
their  sentinel  watch  between  four  hundred  and  five  hun- 
dred years.  They  belong  to  China  and  can  never  act  as 
honorable  and  beautiful  a  part  elsewhere.  The  venerable 
Examination  Halls  are  in  complete  ruin.  Our  Govern- 
ment has  given  strict  orders  against  looting;  it  recognizes 
no  spoils  of  war. 

The  Chinese  Court  has  not  yet  returned,  and  it  is  in 


178  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

such  bondage  that  it  cannot  soon  return.  The  Joint  Note 
and  the  detailed  Protocol  must  be  completed  before  their 
safe  coming  can  be  assured.  The  foreign  Ministers  and 
their  Governments  are  faithfully  working  to  bring  about 
a  peaceful  settlement. 

The  siege  and  what  has  since  followed  have  given  the 
nations  knowledge  of  one  another  far  beyond  what 
written  history  can  ever  record.  A  common  sorrow 
united  them  with  a  common  interest  unknown  before, 
and  an  influence  has  gone  out  that  is  golden.  The  united 
prayers  of  all  nations  and  creeds  were  with  us  in  those 
awful  days;  and  we,  through  love,  saw  love's  protecting 
care.  What  war  means  I  can  now  comprehend.  It  is 
selfish,  destructive,  cruel. 

Yesterday  a  full,  rich  American  mail  came  to  us.  How 
we  feasted  at  love's  beautiful  table!  Letters,  letters, 
letters!  How  could  the  pouch  hold  so  much  treasure? 
These  letters  are  real  feasts  to  us,  even  when  they  come, 
as  many  do,  from  those  we  have  never  seen. 


[To  a  Friend] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
November  24.,  igoo. 

I  CANNOT  tell  you  the  amount  of  good  cheer  your 
short  letter  brought  me,  and  the  intense  gratitude  that 
goes  back  to  you.     Your  letter  tells  a  wonderful  story. 

Prayers,  rich  and  earnest,  during  the  awful  siege,  went 
up  in  one  devout  petition  for  the  safety  of  the  foreigners 
in  North  China.  We  caught  the  sweet  answer  and  saw 
God's  hand  in  power  to  save  and  protect.  It  seemed  so 
near  that  fear  fled,  and  trust  was  enthroned.    Those  dark 


GOOD   FEELING   MANIFESTED      179 

days  of  terrifying  storms  are  gone  now.  When  in  that 
deafening  din  and  narrow  confinement  I  thought  of  Daniel 
in  the  lions'  den,  and  earnestly  prayed  that  each  of  us 
might  be  a  Daniel  and  overcome  the  raging  elements  about 
us.  We  all  worked,  did  our  best  with  what  we  had,  but 
Love's  hand  saved  us.  The  world  will  never  know  what 
that  siege  cost,  nor  how  that  cost  will  bless  humanity. 
The  Christian  world  did  its  loving  work  and  carried  its 
rich  life  blood  with  it.  I  often  question  why  a  siege  must 
still  rage  against  us;  why  the  home  press  fires  its  cartridges 
at  us.  Mr.  Conger  often  says  to  me,  "Never  mind;  we 
have  no  time  to  fear  them,  or  strive  to  dodge  them.  We 
have  important  work  to  do.  'Truth  will  out,'  sometime." 
I  never  saw  any  one  put  away  falsehoods  so  completely, 
and  march  right  on,  as  he  does.  This  attitude  saves  him. 
He  knows  what  he  has  done,  and  what  he  is  now  trying  to 
do.  There  are  persecutions  akin  to  persecutions  of  the 
physical  body;  these  are  persecutions  of  character  with 
malicious  intent  to  kill  —  the  latter  are  more  dastardly 
than  the  former. 

The  foreign  Ministers  are  faithfully  at  work  striving 
to  formulate  a  peace  document  to  present  to  Prince  Ch'ing 
and  Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang.  These  two  strong  men 
represent  the  Chinese  Empire  here.  Each  foreign  nation 
has  its  individual  interests  differing  from  those  of  other 
nations,  and  each  also  has  its  individual  methods  of  work- 
ing; hence  the  progress  is  slow  and  most  difficult.  The 
nations  are  coming  nearer  together  in  sympathy  and  in 
thought,  than  ever  before,  and  they  cannot  now  afford  to 
encourage  the  Chinese  by  dissensions  among  themselves; 
they  must  stand  as  a  unit.  They  manifest  rerrarkably 
good  feeling.     May  the  Hand  of  Right  guide  them,  bless- 


180  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

ing  all  humanity.  Mr.  Conger's  heart  is  in  his  work,  and 
his  mind  is  free  from  the  thought  of  revenge.  He  receives 
from  his  home  Government  rich  encouragement  for  his 
successful  work. 

We  are  exceedingly  grateful  for  our  home,  which  was 
marvellously  saved  from  the  flames  and  from  man's  raging 
storms.  But  no  one  can  imagine  how  difficult  it  is  to  get 
things  to  eat  and  things  to  make  us  comfortable ;  let  alone 
the  things  to  beautify  and  make  our  homes  attractive. 

[To  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
November  25,  1900. 

I  TRULY  appreciate  your  letter,  for  well  do  I  know 
that  your  time  is  full  of  the  many  important  duties  of  your 
work.  That  you  deem  it  one  of  your  pleasures  to  write  to 
Peking,  makes  me  very  grateful.  Ever  since  August  14 
we  have  been  receiving  from  both  continents  multiplied 
messages  from  loved  ones,  from  old  and  new  heart-friends, 
and  from  friends  whom  we  have  never  seen.  God  alone 
opened  the  door  for  these  rich  messages  to  enter. 

The  hours  of  testing,  perplexing  work  have  not  by 
any  means  passed.  The  siege  was  a  bomb  that  burst 
into  the  whole  world,  and  most  trying  times  are  upon  us. 
Let  us  hold  fast  and  pray  as  never  before  that  patience, 
forbearance,  good  will,  charity,  wisdom,  understanding, 
and  love  may  do  their  good  work  and  bring  about  a  just 
settlement,  with  its  stability  in  Right.  The  nations  are 
in  many  ways  doing  wonders;  may  these  wonders  multi- 
ply and  scatter  the  dark  clouds  that  cast  their  dense 
shadows. 


CHINA   AND   THE   NATIONS        181 

With  a  better  understanding  than  ever  before  the 
world  is  battling  for  right,  and  it  must  not  halt;  now  is 
the  mighty  hour,  even  though  discouragements  come 
thick  and  fast.  Falsehoods  come  in  from  many  quarters 
and  have  a  tendency  to  place  far  in  the  future  the  settle- 
ment between  China  and  the  nations.  But  through  all  the 
bright  sun  is  still  shining,  the  clouds  come  and  go,  and  the 
eleven  Ministers  stand  together.  They  are  exercising 
great  patience  and  are  giving  diligent  labor  to  the  form- 
ulating of  a  document  of  reconciliation.  Something  is 
being  accomplished  and  the  Governments  are  giving 
their  Ministers  patient  assistance.  Our  Government 
gives  Mr.  Conger  much  encouragement  and  freedom  of 
action;  this  makes  him  cautious  and  watchful.  Presi- 
dent McKinley  and  Mr.  Conger  were  stanch  friends  as 
colleagues  in  Congress,  and  that  friendship  has  never 
lost  its  life  but  has  grown  into  broader  branchings.  The 
expressions  of  trust  and  encouragement  received  from 
Secretary  Hay  —  diplomat,  statesman,  nobleman,  and 
true  friend  —  have  been  strength  to  Mr.  Conger.  The 
foreign  Ministers  in  Peking  are  workers.  I  am  so  sit- 
uated as  to  know  much  of  their  quiet  work.  There  was 
no  moment  for  them  to  stop  their  labors  before  the  siege, 
during  the  siege,  nor  is  there  now.  These  eleven  Min- 
isters are  compelled  to  be  patient,  cautious,  and  diplomatic 
in  their  intercourse  with  one  another,  in  order  to  clear  the 
rocks  and  sail  harmoniously  together. 

The  Emperor,  Empress  Dowager,  and  their  Court  will 
not  return  to  Peking  this  Winter;  apparently  they  cannot. 
Prince  Ch'ing  and  Li  Hung  Chang  are  authorized  to 
negotiate  with  the  nations. 


i8a  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Nephew] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
December  12,   1900. 

HOW  time  does  hurry  to  increase  the  number  of  days 
behind  us,  and  how  many  pages  of  history  is  it  storing! 

We  are  becoming  well  acquainted  with  the  American 
and  British  officers,  and  they  add  much  to  our  pleasure. 
The  girls  are  on  their  ponies  nearly  every  day  and  are 
truly  thankful  that  they  did  not  leave  Peking  directly 
after  the  siege  was  raised.  The  horrors  of  the  siege  have 
been  allayed  by  the  bright  joys  of  the  past  two  months. 
General  Chaffee  and  the  other  officers  are  always  thought- 
ful of  our  comfort  and  are  continuously  adding  to  our 
pleasure. 

On  the  tenth  of  October  Li  Hung  Chang  arrived  in 
Peking.  This  encouraged  decisive  diplomatic  work. 
After  a  short  stay  in  Tientsin  the  Russian  Minister,  with 
his  Legation,  was  ordered  by  his  Government  to  return 
to  Peking.  None  of  the  other  powers  left  Peking.  The 
Fourteenth  American  Infantry  left  Peking  for  Manila 
with  marked  formality.  All  parts  of  our  army  here  united 
in  escorting  this  regiment  out  of  the  city.  Mr.  Conger  and 
a  British  General  led  the  escort.  These  men,  with  the 
allied  forces,  came  to  our  relief  on  August  14.  Through 
rain  and  heat,  dust  and  high  grain,  forced  marches  and 
severe  firing,  they  marched  on  and  on  to  the  very  walls  of 
Peking.  These  walls  they  scaled ;  they  opened  the  barred 
gates,  and  with  other  armies  moved  on  through  them; 
they  passed  under  the  Water  Gate,  on  into  the  British 
Legation  and  rescued  the  besieged.  They  are  heroes. 
May  they  march  on  in  safety  to  other  glories.      Our 


CRUELTIES  TO  CHRISTIANS       183 

sincere  gratitude,  fond  remembrance,  and  earnest  prayers 
go  with  them.  Few  comprehend  the  depth  of  feeling 
that  the  rescued  holds  toward  the  rescuer. 

There  are  most  heartrending  accounts  coming  to  us 
of  the  fate  of  the  missionaries  in  Paoting  Fu  and  other 
parts  of  the  interior.  When  the  enraged  brute  propensi- 
ties dominate  man's  intelligence,  they  make  a  hell  of  suffer- 
ing. In  some  instances  the  Boxers  took  these  Christian 
martyrs  and  tied  one  foot  to  one  hand,  hung  them  on  a 
pole,  and  two  men  carried  them  about.  At  times  they 
would  tie  their  two  feet  and  their  two  hands  together 
and  men  would  carry  them  hanging  on  a  pole.  One  set 
of  Boxers  under  orders  to  kill,  would  take  them  a  long 
distance,  then  tell  them,  "We  have  orders  to  kill  you,  but 
we  can't  do  it.  We  will  let  you  go  and  look  out  for  your- 
selves." Soon  another  set  of  Boxers  would  overtake 
them;  then  followed  more  travel  and  persecution.  Others 
were  disgracefully  and  cruelly  treated,  then  slashed  and 
beheaded  with  shameful  ceremonies  of  savagery.  Some 
were  fastened  in  their  homes,  then  the  buildings  were  set 
on  fire.  No  one  was  allowed  to  escape  from  the  con- 
suming flames.  These  are  only  illustrations  of  the  most 
horrible  treatment  given  the  foreign  Christians. 

The  native  converts  received,  if  possible,  even  worse 
treatment.  An  illustration  of  the  superstitious  fear  of  the 
Boxers  is  shown  in  the  case  of  a  child  of  four  years. 
Little  Paul  Wang,  a  child  of  one  of  the  native  Christians, 
had  two  sword  wounds,  one  spear  wound,  and  was  thrown 
into  the  fire  three  times.  He  manifested  such  tenacity 
of  life  that  the  leading  Boxers  bowed  to  him,  and  turned 
him  over  to  the  village  elders,  saying  that  Buddha  was 
protecting  him.    Is  it  strange  that  human  indignation 


i84  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

cries  out  in  its  agony  for  bloodshed  in  return  for  these 
horrible  outrages?  But  the  Christian  heart  knows  that 
the  eternal,  immutable  law  of  justice  prevails.  "Venge- 
ance is  mine,  I  will  repay,  saith  the  Lord."  But,  oh, 
how  our  hearts  ache! 

An  expedition  of  English,  French,  German,  and  Amer- 
ican officers  went  into  the  interior  to  Paoting  Fu  and  other 
places  to  rout  and  destroy  the  Boxers.  No  guns  were 
fired.  One  large  army  of  Chinese  soldiers  saw  our 
foreign  troops  coming,  and  did  not  attempt  to  fight. 
They  said,  "We  will  neither  fight  nor  run,"  and  they  did 
not.  It  is  not  the  policy  of  the  allied  forces  to  take 
prisoners,  as  they  cannot  care  for  them.  No  one  was 
harmed  and  peace  reigned. 

Just  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  siege  was  raised,  the 
hospital  in  the  British  Legation  was  removed,  and  each 
nationality  took  its  own  sick  and  wounded.  Then  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Bainbridge,  of  the  American  Legation,  gave 
up  their  bright,  airy  drawing-room  to  Captain  Myers  and 
Dr.  Lippet,  as  a  hospital,  and  crowded  themselves  into 
very  small  quarters,  as  much  of  their  building  was  badly 
shattered  by  shot  and  shell.  This  was  quietly  done, 
without  one  word  in  regard  to  discomfort;  they  never 
tell  of  their  sacrifices,  nor  of  their  good  deeds.  Two 
lady  physicians,  Dr.  Leonard  and  Dr.  Mackey,  turned 
nurses  and  devotedly  cared  for  Captain  Myers  and  Dr. 
Lippet. 

For  their  rescue  and  protection,  the  Christian  Chinese 
are  showing  their  gratitude  to  the  foreign  Ministers  and 
army  generals  in  unique  and  impressive  ways.  These 
expressions  are  very  different  from  those  that  other  nation- 
alities would  give.     The  banners  they  leave  I  will  take 


HONOR  TO  NATIONAL  AIRS       185 

home  with  me;  but  the  well-dressed,  bright-looking 
bearers  with  their  grateful  sayings,  and  the  long  proces- 
sion of  men  with  banners,  decorated  palanquins,  and 
tables  loaded  with  ornamented  trays  of  fruits,  cakes,  nuts, 
and  sweets,  and  the  impressive  ceremonies  of  these  oc- 
casions, I  can  only  carry  in  living  mind-pictures.  Some 
day  I  will  try  to  tell  you  of  them. 

On  the  eighth  we  were  invited  out  to  the  American 
camp  at  the  Temple  of  Agriculture,  to  witness  a  flag  rais- 
ing and  to  tiffin  with  General  Chaffee  and  other  officers. 
The  infantry  formed  on  the  east  of  the  large  open  marble 
altar;  the  cavalry,  mounted,  on  the  south;  the  artillery 
on  the  west,  and  the  band  on  the  north,  with  the  officers 
who  were  conducting  the  ceremonies.  At  twelve  o'clock 
the  band  began  to  play  "The  Star-Spangled  Banner." 
Every  one  was  on  his  feet,  heads  were  uncovered,  and  the 
flag  began  to  rise.  Up,  up,  up,  it  steadily  and  slowly 
went,  and  when  the  last  note  sounded,  it  was  at  the  top. 
Thrilling  cheers  greeted  it  in  its  triumphant  waving. 
Many  nations  have  great  respect  for  their  national  airs, 
and  will  always  rise  to  their  feet  and  with  bared  heads 
stand  while  they  are  being  played  or  sung.  There  is  no 
nation  that  should  have  the  united  respect  of  its  people 
more  than  the  United  States  of  America.  Why  should 
not  one  and  all  of  us  —  men,  women,  and  children  — 
rise  to  our  feet  at  the  first  sounded  note  of  our  national 
air,  thus  showing  respect  due  our  great  country?  The 
other  day  two  Russian  soldiers  entered  a  well-to-do 
Chinese  home  and  went  through  it,  looting,  and  insulting 
the  women  and  children.  The  husband  and  father  pro- 
tested, but  to  no  account.  Finally,  he  brought  out  a 
piccolo   and  began   to  play  the  Russian  national  air. 


1 86  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

The  two  men  dropped  all  of  their  loot,  stopped  their 
bad  behavior,  and  became  men  of  honor.  They  stood 
erect  and  silent  before  this  musician  and  listened  to  his 
sweet  music.  When  the  last  note  was  sounded,  they 
saluted  and  passed  out  into  the  street  empty-handed. 
Every  nation  and  every  individual  has  a  note  in  the 
rhythm  of  life,  which,  if  struck,  peals  forth  its 
sweet  melody  and  the  brotherhood  of  man  is  heard  and 
felt.  I  asked  a  Russian  Grand  Duke  the  meaning  of 
this  great  respect  for  their  national  air,  a  respect  I  had 
not  noted  among  other  nations.  He  replied,  ''It  is  a 
prayer." 

You  may  ask  how  this  Chinese  knew  Russian  music. 
In  Peking,  there  is  an  English  gentleman,  well  known, 
and  beloved  by  both  foreigners  and  Chinese.  This  gen- 
tleman is  Sir  Robert  Hart,  Inspector  General  of  the 
Chinese  Customs.  His  firm  friendship  manifested  in 
generosity  of  thought  and  action  endears  him  to  all  who 
know  him.  He  is  a  lover  of  music  and  believes  in  its 
good  influence.  He  formed  a  Chinese  band  of  forty 
pieces,  hired  these  men,  paid  their  instructor,  bought 
their  fine  instruments,  music,  uniforms,  and  everything 
pertaining  to  a  good  band,  then  invited  foreigners  to 
lawn  parties,  outdoor  concerts,  dances  in  his  ball-room, 
dinners,  and  Wednesday  "at  homes."  When  the  siege 
came  upon  us,  Sir  Robert,  with  the  other  foreigners,  was 
compelled  to  flee  for  his  life  from  his  beautiful  home, 
gardens,  and  all  his  belongings,  to  the  British  Legation. 
His  band  men  fled  far  and  near.  This  Chinese  with  his 
piccolo  was  one  of  these  men.  Truly  no  good  thought 
nor  act  is  ever  lost.  I  said  to  Sir  Robert,  "If  there  were 
no  other  harvest  from  the  wealth  you  have  put  into  that 


SLIGHT   PUNISHMENTS  187 

band,  the  saving  of  that  Chinese  family  was  harvest  rich 
enough."    He  smiled  and  his  heart  spoke  through  his  eyes. 

On  the  sixteenth,  Li  Hung  Chang  came  to  see  Mr. 
Conger.  After  his  official  call,  he  asked  to  see  the  ladies, 
and  remained  about  thirty  minutes.  He  seemed  to 
think  eating  horse  meat  during  the  siege  quite  a  joke 
and  talked  and  laughed  about  it.  He  thought  we  should 
forget  eating  horse  meat  now.  We  told  him  that  it  was 
not  our  food  that  we  remembered  with  feeling,  but  the 
killing  of  our  people,  and  the  effort  on  the  part  of  his 
countrymen  to  take  our  lives.  He  said  a  private  decree 
had  been  sent  to  him  by  Their  Majesties  with  regard  to 
the  punishments  of  the  leaders  of  this  great  uprising. 
He  told  the  substance  and  said  that  he  would  send  a 
copy.  The  punishments  are  too  insignificant  even  to  be 
thought  of,  let  alone  being  considered. 

Li  Hung  Chang  said  to  Mr.  Conger,  "I  wish  you 
would  use  your  influence  with  your  colleagues,  and  per- 
suade them  to  think  that  these  punishments  are  suffi- 
cient for  my  people."  Mr.  Conger  replied,  "I  must 
first  persuade  myself  that  they  are  sufficient  before  I  can 
use  my  influence  with  my  colleagues  in  that  direction." 
Li  Hung  Chang  looks  quite  well  and  seems  no  weaker 
than  when  he  called  a  year  ago.  He  surely  has  a  mighty 
problem  on  his  hands  to  solve  for  his  country.  He  could 
not  take  much  comfort  or  encouragement  from  this  Le- 
gation to-day. 

The  British  are  bringing  the  railroad  through  the  city 
wall  up  to  the  front  entrance  of  the  Temple  of  Heaven. 
There  are  hundreds  of  coolies  making  the  grade.  Two 
coolies  with  a  pole  carry  between  them  less  than  a  bushel 
basket  of  dirt  and  empty  it  upon  the  grade.    This  man- 


188  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

labor  takes  much  time.  From  this  opening  in  the  city 
wall  to  the  old  station,  the  railroad  seems  to  be  in  almost 
a  direct  line  and  passes  through  a  very  old  and  large 
Chinese  burial  ground.  There  are  hosts  of  coolies  at 
work  removing  large  coffins  and  small  ones  of  stone  and 
metal.  In  thousands  of  cases,  the  coffins  cannot  be 
moved  or  have  become  disintegrated ;  so  baskets  are  filled 
with  the  bones;  each  basket  is  marked  with  the  name, 
and  all  are  carried  to  long,  deep  trenches,  in  which  they 
are  placed.  As  the  Chinese  reverence  their  ancestors, 
and  twice  a  year  devotedly  make  pilgrimages  to  worship 
and  offer  sacrifices  at  their  tombs,  this  railroad  work  of 
the  foreigner  must  be  to  them  a  most  heartrending  affair. 
The  railroad  could  have  gone  a  little  to  the  right  or  left 
of  this  large,  old  cemetery. 

I  have  much  sympathy  for  the  Chinese,  and  yet  I 
do  not  in  any  way  uphold  them  nor  excuse  them  in  their 
fiendish  cruelty.  They  have  given  the  foreigner  the  most 
sorrowful,  most  degrading,  and  most  revengeful  treat- 
ment that  their  fiendish  ideas  can  conceive.  But  the 
facts  remain  the  same;  China  belongs  to  the  Chinese, 
and  she  never  wanted  the  foreigner  upon  her  soil.  The 
foreigner  would  come,  force  his  life  upon  the  Chinese, 
and  here  and  there  break  a  cog  of  the  wheels  that  run 
their  Government  so  systematically.  Even  if  we  grant 
that  China's  condition  has  been  improved  by  these  in- 
vasions, what  right  has  the  foreigner  to  enter  this  domain 
unbidden  and  unwelcomed?  The  foreigner  has  forced 
himself,  his  country,  his  habits,  and  his  productions 
upon  China,  always  against  a  strong  protest.  It  kept 
getting  worse  for  China,  and  she  recognized  the  fact. 
At  length,  in  one  last  struggle,  she  rose  in  her  mistaken 


CONTEMPT  FOR   FOREIGNERS     189 

might  to  wipe  the  foreigner  and  his  influence  from  her 
land.  Could  we,  after  taking  these  facts  home  to  our- 
selves, blame  the  Chinese  for  doing  what  they  could  to 
get  rid  of  what  they  considered  an  obnoxious  pest  that 
was  undermining  the  long-established  customs  of  their 
entire  country?  Their  methods,  however,  are  most 
lamentable.  It  seems  to  have  been  the  thought  from  the 
beginning  of  this  Chinese  uprising  to  wipe  out  completely 
the  foreigner  and  all  his  invading  thoughts  and  works. 
The  Chinese  seemed  willing  to  make  untold  sacrifices 
to  accomplish  this  end. 

The  foreigner  has  never  lost  sight  of  the  fact  that  the 
Chinese  officials  wished  to  show  them  all  the  concealed 
disrespect  that  they  dared;  but,  to  what  extent,  they  did 
not  guess  until  now.  Heretofore,  the  foreign  Minis- 
ters, on  their  official  visits  to  His  Majesty,  have  been 
escorted  through  a  side  or  back  gate  and  received  in  a  sim- 
ple, inferior  throne  room,  poorly  furnished,  and  arranged 
for  this  special  occasion.  Since  the  raising  of  the  siege, 
the  foreigner  has  been  passing  through  the  front  gates 
and  has  entered  most  beautiful  throne  buildings  with 
Imperial  furnishings.  They  are  elaborate,  attractive, 
and  rich  in  their  Oriental  beauty,  color,  and  grandeur. 
The  Tsung  Li  Yamen  is  a  dirty,  cheerless,  barren  build- 
ing, where  the  Chinese  officials  receive  the  foreign  Min- 
isters. All  this  goes  to  show  the  contempt  with  which 
the  Chinese  regard  the  foreigner. 

To  divide  China  among  the  nations  would  mean  wars 
and  a  standing  army  large  and  strong.  The  bitterness 
of  the  Chinese  would  grow  deeper  and  more  active,  and 
they  would  sting  their  venom  into  the  foreigner  with  a 
poison  not  yet  calculated. 


i9o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
December  13,  igoo. 

THE  siege  was  a  reign  of  terror  to  those  here  and  else- 
where. The  world  felt  the  spell,  and  the  united  prayers 
of  all  the  nations  and  creeds  were  wafted  upward  in  des- 
pair of  mortal  power  to  save.  These  upward  thoughts 
scattered  the  dark  clouds,  and  saving  Love  smiled  through. 

The  foreign  Ministers  are  continuously  and  diligently 
working  to  adjust  matters  on  a  peace  basis.  Thus  far, 
there  has  been  no  serious  clashing;  the  progress  is  neces- 
sarily slow,  but  it  bids  fair  to  come  to  harmonious  adjust- 
ment. After  the  Ministers  with  careful  thought  and  work 
have  come  together  on  certain  points,  there  are  eleven 
Governments  back  of  them  to  approve  or  reject. 

Mr.  Conger  never  had  his  hours  crowded  so  full  of 
important  questions  upon  which  he  must  not  make  mis- 
takes. We  cannot,  as  yet,  hope  for  a  visit  home,  but  we 
greatly  wish  that  we  might  return  in  the  Spring.  The  city 
has  been  cleaned  by  the  allied  troops.  Each  army  seems 
to  vie  with  the  others  in  keeping  its  allotted  portions  of 
the  city  as  though  on  dress  parade.  The  harmony  exist- 
ing between  the  different  armies  is  remarkable.  The  little 
difficulties  that  might,  under  other  circumstances,  grow 
into  big  ones  are  soon  settled.  We  sincerely  hope  that 
the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  China  will  be  the  ruling 
power  in  Peking  and  in  the  entire  North  as  well  as  in  the 
South  of  this  vast,  rich,  old  Empire.  The  Court  is  hun- 
dreds of  miles  away  at  Sian  Fu.  May  Truth  and  Right 
show  us  the  way! 


CHRISTMAS  IN   PEKING  191 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
December  31,  igoo. 

ONE  of  these  swift  coming  and  going  days  was  the 
greatest  of  the  whole  year  —  the  Christ  Day!  How  we 
did  think  of  the  loved  ones  across  the  great  waters!  We 
were  content  in  the  thought  that  you  were  all  giving 
thanks  and  rejoicing  with  glad  hearts.  We  hoped  that 
our  love  greetings  had  taken  to  you  good  cheer  from  us. 
These  small  gifts  were  so  freighted  with  love  and  good 
wishes  that  I  am  very  sure  their  fairy  wings  took  them 
over  difficulties  and  caused  them  to  reach  you  in  time  for 
the  Christmas  feast.  We  had  very  little  to  do  with  here, 
but  thought  and  planning  caused  that  little  to  do  much. 
To  each  missionary,  to  the  hospital  nurses,  and  others,  I 
sent  a  card  bearing  a  Christmas  thought.  To  each  of  the 
wards  in  the  hospitals  I  sent  flowers;  and  faithful  Wang, 
our  first  boy,  helped  me  to  make  wreaths  and  crosses, 
which  we  tenderly  placed  upon  the  graves  of  the  brave 
men  who  fell  in  our  defence.  When  General  Chaffee 
came  into  the  Legation  on  Christmas  Day,  he  saw  the 
flowers  upon  the  graves  in  our  garden,  and  when  he  en- 
tered the  house,  he  warmly  took  my  hand  in  both  of  his 
and  feelingly  said,  "  Thank  you  for  these  beautiful  flowers 
that  you  have  placed  upon  the  graves  of  my  men."  This 
was  enough.  It  does  not  take  much,  after  all,  to  touch  the 
heart  and  make  it  thankful. 

There  are  many  American  soldiers  buried  in  the  cem- 
etery at  the  Temple  of  Agriculture.  All  are  to  be  re- 
moved to  their  own  dear  land  and  loved  ones.  Our 
Government  has  already  begun  the  work  at  Tientsin. 


192  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

I  must  tell  you  of  a  beautiful  and  valuable  gift  pre- 
sented to  Mr.  Conger  by  the  Protestant  Chinese  Christians 
in  gratitude  for  what  he  had  done  for  them.  On  the 
twenty-fourth,  foreign  representatives  of  different  missions 
came  with  many  of  their  native  Christians,  who  were 
bearing  an  elegant  tablet,  resting  upon  a  large  catafalque, 
and  sheltered  by  canopies  of  embroidered  satins.  This 
catafalque  was  carried  upon  large  red  poles  by  many  men. 
This  beautiful  tablet  came  bearing  respect  and  gratitude 
to  Mr.  Conger  for  the  sympathy  he  had  shown  them  and 
the  help  he  had  given  them.  One  of  the  Chinese  pastors 
made  some  very  bright,  pointed,  and  feeling  remarks  in 
presenting  this  tablet.  The  tablet  is  very  large,  too  large 
for  a  private  home;  therefore  Mr.  Conger  has  chosen  for 
its  place  of  keeping  the  halls  of  his  Alma  Mater,  at  Gales- 
burg,  Illinois.  It  is  a  beautiful  thing  of  itself,  and  the 
thought  most  beautiful  that  manifested  it.  It  is  made  of 
the  hard  teak-wood,  elegantly  carved,  then  gilded  with 
gold  leaf;  the  fine  Chinese  characters  it  bears  tell  its  story. 

The  Chinese  gifts  to  Mr.  Conger  of  umbrellas  with 
all  their  trappings  are  unique,  interesting,  and  some  are 
exceedingly  attractive  and  beautiful  in  their  Oriental 
gorgeousness.  We  shall  try  to  take  some  of  them  home 
with  us  complete.  To  take  a  part  of  each  gift  and  not 
the  whole  would  be  a  broken  story,  for  every  part  has 
its  bearing  on  every  other  part. 

On  December  twenty-fourth,  a  wonderful  document, 
the  Joint  Note  of  the  nations,  was  finished  and  handed 
by  the  Ministers  to  the  Chinese  representatives,  Prince 
Ch'ing  and  Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang,  in  joint  meeting. 
Now  the  Chinese  Government  has  it  to  ponder,  to  accept, 
or  to  reject. 


TERMS  OF   PEACE  ACCEPTED      193 

To-day,  December  thirtieth,  the  rejoicings  of  Decem- 
ber twenty-fourth  are  greatly  increased.  A  reply  has 
come  back  that  the  Chinese  Government  will  accept  the 
terms  of  peace  given  them  by  the  nations  in  the  Joint 
Note.  They  ask  only  for  a  few  explanations,  which 
signify  little. 

[To  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
January  5,  igoi. 

YOUR  two  excellent  letters  I  have  received,  and  they 
have  had  their  sincere  welcome.  Your  poem,  we  truly 
enjoyed;  we  have  looked  for  it  in  print,  but  have  not 
yet  seen  it.  By  this  time,  you  are  at  home  in  Washing- 
ton, and  I  trust  are  having  a  happy  winter. 

Affairs  here  are  progressing,  and  changes  come  in 
many  ways  for  the  better.  I  will  write  to  you  of  our 
army  hospitals,  as  your  Red  Cross  points  to  a  living  in- 
terest in  that  direction.  I  have  been  through  them  twice 
since  you  left  us.  They  are  an  honor  to  our  people  and 
a  home  of  comfort  and  plenty  to  the  brave  soldiers  who 
are  in  them.  Neatness,  cleanliness,  and  warmth  character- 
ize every  part.  They  have  plenty  of  sunlight  and  fresh 
air,  good  beds,  sheets,  pillowcases,  warm  blankets,  towels, 
and  other  necessities.  The  patients  have  warm,  proper 
food  to  eat,  and  the  six  women  nurses  are  reported  as 
doing  good  work.  Those  in  charge  speak  in  high  terms 
of  them. 

What  a  wonderful  education  the  past  year  has  given 
to  the  different  peoples  brought  together  in  Peking!  I 
often  recall  your  visit  and  our  long,  earnest  talks.  They 
gave  me  an  insight  into  your  unselfish  work  of  love  to 


i94  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

allay  the  suffering  of  the  sick  in  hospitals.  The  great 
sacrifices  you  make  do  not  seem  to  be  sacrifices  to  you, 
because  your  heart's  love  is  in  your  thought  and  action. 
But,  dear  girl,  meet  the  rebuffs  with  a  brave  heart  and 
do  not  let  them  for  one  moment  discourage  you. 

Strange  world,  isn't  it?  So  much  climbing  to  do, 
and  so  many  thorns  to  avoid!  After  all,  the  bright 
Morning  Star  is  ever  shining  to  light  us  on  our  way, 
and  we  often  hear  the  sweet  melody  of  good  cheer  for 
work  well  done.  Our  house  is  still  full.  Every  room 
is  occupied.  General  Chaffee  is  in  his  own  quarters 
now,  and  delightfully  entertains  his  own  people  and 
others. 

The  confidence  that  the  Chinese  have  in  the  American 
army  is  surely  a  compliment  to  our  officers.  Colonel 
Wint  has  just  returned  from  an  expedition  into  the 
country.  The  natives  fled  as  he  and  his  men  approached 
them,  but,  when  they  learned  who  they  were,  they 
remained  in  the  villages,  brought  food  to  them,  and 
formed  long  lines  with  buckets  of  water  for  the  cavalry 
horses. 

When  the  Chinese  merchants  and  business  men  re- 
turned to  Peking  with  their  goods,  they  first  crowded  into 
the  Japanese  quarters,  as  they  believed  most  in  their 
friendship  and  protection.  When  these  streets  became 
far  too  full  for  comfort,  the  Japanese  told  them  that  they 
must  go  to  some  other  parts  of  the  city.  They  at  once 
flocked  to  the  American  quarters,  filled  its  streets,  and 
here  they  remain.  We  cannot  longer  call  Peking  a  de- 
serted city.  The  Chinese  are  gaining  more  confidence, 
and  so  are  we;  but  we  cannot  know  what  would  be  the 
effect  if  our  armies  were  withdrawn.    It  is  the  thought 


JOINT  NOTE  SIGNED  195 

of  many  that  it  would  be  better  for  the  larger  part  of  the 
armies  to  be  taken  away. 

The  humane  way  in  which  our  army  has  treated  the 
Chinese  has  been  a  bright  star  in  America's  crown.  No 
one  who  is  not  here  and  in  the  work  can  understand  what 
it  means  for  many  nations  with  their  armies  to  be  in  a 
land  without  a  head.  You  know  the  Throne  of  China  was 
deserted,  and  no  power  was  left  to  sustain  and  protect  her 
people. 

[To  a  Sister] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
February  6,  igoi. 

THE  wonderful  Joint  Note  is  signed  by  the  foreign 
Ministers.  Happy  is  the  day  —  clouds  are  lifting! 
May  the  sunshine  of  this  day  pass  down  through  the 
coming  ages.  After  intense  anxiety  and  much  patient 
diplomatic  work  among  colleagues  and  their  nations,  a 
great  work  is  done. 

The  different  armies  of  the  allied  forces  in  Peking 
are  vying  with  one  another  in  their  Grand  Reviews. 
They  are  at  their  best  —  superb  —  all  of  them! 

January  13.  Six  months  to-day  since  the  fearful 
battle  at  Tientsin  and  the  taking  of  the  city  by  foreign 
troops.  Our  American  officers  say  that  America  has 
not  seen  such  a  fearful  battle  since  the  Civil  War. 

January  16.  To-day  the  Joint  Note  was  returned 
to  the  foreign  Ministers  officially  signed  by  the  Chinese 
Government.  Now  the  work  of  the  Protocol  will  begin. 
This  detail  work  may  be  long  and  tedious.  Our  thoughts 
turn  homeward. 

January  24..    The  sad  cablegram  was  received  to-day 


196  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

that  Her  Majesty,  the  Queen  of  England,  died  January 
twenty-second  at  three  o'clock.  The  whole  world  grieves. 
A  beautiful,  long  life  of  usefulness  glows  anew,  and  will 
never  lose  its  lustre. 

February  2.  Burial  services  were  read  in  the  chapel 
at  the  British  Legation  for  "Her  Most  Gracious  Ma- 
jesty, Victoria,  Queen  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland, 
Empress  of  India."  The  same  services  were  also  read 
at  the  Imperial  Palace  grounds.  The  eight  nations  were 
represented  by  their  armies  in  full  dress  —  an  imposing 
sight  full  of  respect  and  honor. 

The  Diplomats  are  watchful,  and  acknowledge  in 
many  ways  the  respect  and  good  will  of  the  sisterhood 
of  nations.  Congratulations  or  condolences  are  invari- 
ably extended,  and  they  often  bear  a  concealed  olive 
branch. 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
February  25,  igoi. 

AS  you  seem  to  appreciate  dates  with  their  events,  I 
turn  to  my  diary. 

On  February  sixth,  General  Chaffee  received  a  cable- 
gram that  he  had  been  promoted  to  a  Major  General  in 
the  regular  army,  and  on  February  ninth  we  gave  a  dinner 
to  twenty  Americans  in  honor  of  Major  General  Chaffee. 
While  standing  at  the  table,  Mr.  Conger  proposed  a  toast 
to  "The  President  of  the  United  States,"  and  when  din- 
ner was  half  over,  a  toast  to  "Major  General  Chaffee." 
As  you  are  always  interested  in  what  he  says,  I  will  give 
you  the  substance  of  his  remarks: 

"Authentic  information  has  been  received  that  the 


Foreign  Ministers  Who  Signed  the  Joint  Note,  February  6,  1901 

Left  to  right:  Major  E.  H.  Conger  (U.  S.  A.),  Marquis  J.  Salvago  Raggi  (Italy),  M.  De  Giers 
(Russia),  Baron  d'A.  de  Wasserwass  (France),  Don  B.J.  de  Cologan  (Spain),  Sir  E.  Satow  (Great 
Britain),  Baron  Nissi  (Japan),  Baron  M.  C.  de  Wallton  (Austria-Hungary),  M.  N.  Joostens  (Bel- 
gium), Dr.  von  Mumm  (Germany). 

(By  Permission) 


TRIBUTE  TO  GENERAL  CHAFFEE    197 

President,  recognizing  the  merit  of  one  of  our  most  dis- 
tinguished soldiers,  has  conferred  upon  him  the  Stars 
of  a  Major  General  in  the  regular  army. 

"This  is  not  only  a  recognition  of  his  eminent  public 
service  by  the  President  personally,  but,  speaking  for 
all  the  people  of  the  United  States,  it  is  an  expression  of 
their  high  appreciation  of  his  loyal,  patriotic,  and  splen- 
did service  to  them  and  to  the  country. 

"General  Chaffee  has  come  into  his  own,  and  his 
friends,  whose  name  is  legion,  will  all  say  Amen. 

"None,  anywhere,  can  felicitate  him  more  heartily 
than  do  his  friends  gathered  around  this  table  to-night. 
Yes,  I  will  make  a  single  exception.  There  is  one  who 
I  am  certain  will  enjoy  the  promotion  more  than  any 
one  here.  She  is  even  now  smiling  through  her  glad 
tears,  and  sending  him  on  the  wings  of  mental  telepathy 
a  loving  message,  which  is  this  moment  being  registered 
by  his  own  quick  heartbeats. 

"She  has  watched  with  loving  interest  this  evolu- 
tion of  a  Major  General;  has  seen  with  justifiable  pride 
a  small  bar  appear  in  each  end  of  his  shoulder  straps; 
she  has  seen  these  doubled;  then  replaced  by  golden 
leaves;  and  then  observed  these,  like  the  hair  on  her 
hero's  head,  turn  to  silver;  has  witnessed  these  in  turn 
driven  out  by  the  proud  American  eagle.  Now  he  is 
dethroned,  and  two  brilliant  stars  will  henceforth  per- 
manently take  his  place.  Methinks,  I  can  hear  this 
woman's  glad  rejoicing.  Will  you  not  all  join  me  in 
extending  congratulations  to  the  wife  of  General  Chaffee  ? 

"General  Chaffee,  you  have  been  greatly  honored, 
but  forty  years  of  such  splendid  service  as  yours  deserves 
even  greater  rewards.    To  have  fought  with  Grant  in 


i98  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

the  Wilderness;  to  have  stood  for  years,  like  a  stone  wall, 
between  savages  and  the  pioneers  of  the  West;  to  have 
won  the  victory  at  El  Caney  and  made  the  salvation  of 
Cuba  possible;  to  have  hastened  half-way  around  the 
world,  compelled  an  immediate  movement  of  the  allied 
forces  from  Tientsin,  battered  down  the  gates  and  scaled 
the  walls  of  Peking,  and  with  the  heroic  efforts  of  brave 
men,  saved  the  beleagured  prisoners  from  a  terrible  death, 
is  worth  a  dozen  stars. 

"The  President  has  made  no  mistake,  and  both  he 
and  the  country  are  to  be  generously  congratulated. 

"I  ask  you,  my  friends,  to  rise  and  join  me  in  this 
toast  to  our  distinguished  guest,  Major  General  Adna 
R.  Chaffee,  great  soldier  and  good  friend.  May  his 
new  stars  lead  him  to  heights  to  which  his  eagles  could 
never  carry  him,  and  may  prosperity  and  happiness  attend 
him  to  the  end." 

Major  General  Chaffee  was  at  his  best,  and  all  seemed 
happy.  He  climbed  to  this  height  from  the  ranks;  and 
we  all  rejoice  with  him. 

February  23.  Mr.  Conger  cabled  to  the  State  De- 
partment to-day  asking  a  leave  of  absence.  He  has  been 
here  three  years  without  rest;  he  has  remained  through 
the  coming  of  the  troubles,  the  climax  of  them,  and  until 
the  negotiations  are  well  started.  The  Joint  Note  has 
been  completed  and  signed,  and  the  Protocol  begun. 

February  24..  A  welcome  cablegram  came  to-day, 
and  we  are  all  rejoicing.  We  are  going  home!  Many 
of  the  Diplomats  and  others  have  brought  us  their  con- 
gratulations. We  shall  soon  be  with  you  and  other 
loved  ones  and  dear  friends. 


Lieutenant-General  Adna  R.  Chaffee,  U-  S.  A. 

{By  Permission) 


TIENTSIN  WALLS  LEVELLED       199 

[To  a  Niece] 

Steamship,  March  2Q,  igoi. 

WE  left  Peking  on  March  eleventh  and  remained  over 
night  at  Tientsin.  Consul  Ragsdale  took  us  for  a  long 
drive  and  pointed  out  the  places  made  historic  by  the 
fearful  engagement  of  last  summer. 

The  battles  at  Tientsin  were  terrific.  The  Chinese 
showed  courage  beyond  the  imagination  of  those  who 
know  them  best.  They  were  determined,  fought  bravely, 
and  put  the  foreign  armies  to  a  bitter  test.  The  walls 
of  the  Native  City  are  being  levelled  to  the  ground  for 
a  boulevard.  This  must  be  a  sickening  sight  to  the 
Chinese.  Ta  Ku,  by  order  of  the  foreigner,  is  bereft  of 
her  forts.  We  spent  a  few  days  in  Shanghai,  then  went 
to  Hong  Kong.  Captain  Green  invited  us  to  the  bridge 
to  see  the  beautiful  bay.  As  we  were  weaving  the  big 
ship  among  the  hilly  islands,  the  scene  before  us  was  most 
beautiful.  We  were  cordially  entertained  in  this  British 
port.  Captain  McCalla  received  us  on  board  the  New- 
ark. All  the  salutes  and  attentions  that  could  be  shown 
a  Minister  were  extended.  Some  of  the  marines  who 
were  in  siege  with  us  were  on  board,  and  we  were  truly 
glad  to  see  them.  After  two  days'  stay  in  Hong  Kong 
we  sailed  for  Canton.  What  can  I  say  more  than  you 
read  in  books  about  this  wonderful  place  ?  This  ancient, 
thrifty,  unique,  massive,  condensed  city  fascinates  me. 
Everything  here  is  Cantonese.  Each  of  the  great  cities 
of  China  stands  out  from  all  the  others  with  its  own  in- 
dividuality. In  visiting  Shanghai,  we  see  Shanghai  only, 
not  Tientsin,  nor  Peking,  nor  Canton.  The  interior 
cities  also  have  their  own  peculiar  individuality,  their 


2oo  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

own  industries,  and  their  own  dialect.  The  written 
character  with  its  meaning,  however,  remains  the  same 
throughout  the  entire  Empire.  The  seeker  for  informa- 
tion finds  it  at  every  step  in  China,  and  this  information 
is  so  varied  that  it  becomes  intensely  interesting. 

I  am  in  the  land  of  the  so-called  heathen.  We  have 
been  taught  that  a  heathen  is  superstition,  cruelty,  and 
ignorance  personified.  But  I  find  that  these  character- 
istics, in  a  degree,  can  be  traced  in  what  are  called  the 
enlightened  Christian  nations,  in  individuals  composing 
those  nations,  and  in  myself. 

One  of  the  richest  lessons  I  have  learned  in  the  Far 
East  is  to  endeavor  to  root  out  of  my  own  character  what 
I  condemn  in  the  character  of  others;  and  to  water  and 
carefully  nurture  the  little  tendrils  in  my  own  Hving  that 
I  admire  and  commend  in  others.  This  I  call  striking  at 
the  root. 

The  foreign  settlement  in  Canton  is  on  an  island  and 
is  barred  from  the  city  at  night  by  a  locked  gate.  This 
island  has  large  buildings  two  and  three  stories  high 
with  broad  verandas.  The  climate  and  vegetation  are 
quite  tropical.  Broad  streets,  palms  and  other  fine  trees, 
beautiful  flowers,  shrubs,  lawns,  parks,  gardens,  and 
shady  paved  streets  combine  to  welcome  the  foreigner 
and  give  him  an  attractive  home. 

There  is  no  way  to  traverse  the  very  narrow  streets  of 
Canton  except  in  chairs  or  on  foot.  Some  of  them  are  not 
over  six  feet  wide;  others  are  from  eight  to  ten  feet  in 
width.  The  buildings  are  from  two  to  four  stories  high. 
Little  shrines  are  at  the  doorway  of  each  shop,  and  the 
streets  are  gay  with  bright,  fancy,  hanging  signs.  No 
animals  are  seen  in  the  city,  as  all  labor  is  done  by  men 


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"FORTUNE  BLOCKS"  201 

and  women.  Women  work  here  on  boats  and  in  the 
streets,  a  thing  which  they  seldom  do  in  North  China. 

Our  trips  are  most  interesting.  Each  shop  has  its 
specialty  of  silver,  carved  woods,  ivory,  embroideries, 
silks,  drawnwork,  feather  ornaments,  jewelry,  fans,  por- 
celains, brasses,  curios,  fireworks,  linens,  shoes,  clothing, 
markets  of  meat,  and  markets  of  vegetables. 

When  we  were  visiting  one  of  the  large  temples,  our 
Chinese  guide  told  us  of  many  of  the  religious  forms 
which  had  been  handed  down  through  the  centuries.  I 
will  tell  you  of  one  in  which  we  were  deeply  interested 
because  it  was  entirely  new  to  us.  We  came  to  a  large 
Buddha  with  all  its  belongings,  and  added  to  these  were 
"Fortune  Blocks,"  two  blocks  shaped  like  a  long-necked 
gourd  cut  in  halves.  These  halves  were  placed  together 
by  the  person  who  came  to  have  his  fortune  told,  then 
dropped  upon  the  floor  in  front  of  the  Buddha.  If  the 
flat  sides  were  down,  that  was  good  fortune.  If  one  was 
down  and  the  other  up,  it  was  half  good  luck;  if  both  were 
up  this  indicated  bad  luck.  They  do  this  three  times,  and 
if  the  favor  of  the  god  is  with  them,  they  undertake  to 
carry  out  their  desire;  if  against  them,  they  abandon  it. 
The  guide  illustrated  the  custom  in  this  way;  "I  wish 
to  take  some  trip  or  enter  upon  some  business  enterprise. 
I  go  to  this  Buddha  and  take  these  blocks  and  pray  this 
Buddha  for  his  hearing;  then  I  drop  them.  What  this 
Buddha  tells  me  through  these  blocks  I  believe  to  be  true 
and  listen  to  him." 

The  Consul  took  us  to  see  three  pirates  in  cages. 
These  prisoners  were  in  the  streets  where  they  could  be  seen 
while  being  tortured.  They  are  compelled  to  stand  with 
toes  barely  touching  the  floor,  and  are  tied  up  by  their 


202  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

hair  and  in  other  ways.  Their  hands  are  chained  to- 
gether. Each  cage  is  just  tall  enough  and  wide  enough 
for  one  man.  They  remain  in  them  all  day,  but  are  let 
out  at  night,  though  still  kept  in  close  confinement.  Some 
are  sentenced  for  six  months,  others  for  a  year,  for  many 
years,  or  for  life,  and  still  others  are  sentenced  to  starve. 
The  object  is  to  make  the  punishment  equal  to  the  crime. 
It  is  said  that  Li  Hung  Chang,  although  severe,  wrought 
a  good  work  here  in  behalf  of  law  and  order.  It  was  with 
deep  interest  that  we  visited  this  wonderful  old  city  with 
its  strange  temples,  guilds,  shops,  and  narrow  streets. 
The  inhabitants  of  Canton  seem  to  be  a  good  class  of 
Chinese;   they  are  industrious  and  thrifty. 

There  are  many  unspoken  and  unwritten  thoughts  in 
my  mind  about  the  Chinese.  While  I  repudiate  and 
abhor  many  of  their  customs,  thoughts,  and  deeds,  I  truly 
admire  many  of  their  characteristics.  The  foreigner  has 
proved  to  be  an  obnoxious  invader.  In  return,  the 
Chinese  are  revengeful.  The  punishment,  according  to 
their  laws,  is  no  more  than  equal  to  the  crime.  The  for- 
eigner would  do  the  same  thing,  only  differing  in  methods. 
It  is  a  war  of  ideas,  in  which  each  is  striving  to  sustain  his 
own.  China,  with  her  long-established  wheels  within 
wheels  all  working  together,  does  not  wish  to  have  the 
foreign  nations  touch  and  disarrange  this  systematic 
working.  There  is  a  broad,  deep  gulf  between  China 
and  other  nations.  Foreign  nations  seem  determined  to 
change  the  granite  customs  of  China,  and  China  struggles 
for  their  preservation.  What  will  the  outcome  be  ?  This 
generation  cannot  answer  this  question. 

Mr.  Lee  Chee  and  the  American  Consul  made  arrange- 
ments for  us  to  visit  the  home  of  one  of  the  highest  man- 


A   MANDARIN'S   HOME  203 

darins,  a  most  influential  and  wealthy  Cantonese  Taotai, 
and  to  dine  with  him.  At  half-past  six  o'clock  we  started 
into  the  dark  Native  City  in  our  chairs,  with  an  escort  of 
soldiers  bearing  torches.  The  gates  along  our  extended 
journey  were  opened  on  our  approach  and  immediately 
closed  behind  us.  Everything  looked  weird;  the  men 
standing  around  their  dim  lights  looked  suspicious.  It 
was  a  dismal,  dreary  sight.  The  narrow  streets  looked 
more  narrow  with  their  limited,  flickering  lights.  Our 
many  lanterns  and  torches  were  ahead  of  us,  on  the  sides, 
and  behind.  Each  ward  of  the  city  has  a  gate,  which  is 
locked  at  night.  These  were  opened  for  us  to  pass,  then 
closed  again.  After  a  ride  of  about  forty-five  minutes, 
we  reached  the  palatial  home  of  this  official.  We  passed 
through  many  courts  and  stopped  in  a  large  one  at  the 
door  of  a  building  leading  to  the  drawing-room  building. 
We  are  told  that  this  Mr.  Chow  Tung  Sang  is  Justice 
of  the  Peace.  As  merchant  and  banker  he  stands  among 
the  most  wealthy  men  of  South  China.  As  we  entered  the 
large  p'eng  court  filled  with  many  chairs,  Mr.  Lee  Chee 
met  us  and  introduced  us  to  Mr.  Chow  and  his  wealthy 
mandarin  brothers.  They  escorted  us  into  the  ancestral 
hall,  gorgeous  with  its  tablets  and  belongings.  Here  we 
were  presented  to  Mrs.  Chow,  and  tea  was  served.  Their 
little  fourteen-year-old  son  entered  and  was  introduced. 
Later  we  were  introduced  to  their  eleven  daughters. 
All  had  exceedingly  small,  bound  feet.  They  were  all 
richly  dressed  in  bright  colors  and  elegant  ornaments. 
The  scene  was  bewildering  in  its  beauty.  Their  faces 
seemed  to  be  almost  enameled  in  white,  and  then  daintily 
painted  in  red,  with  a  deep  red  spot  upon  the  lower  lip. 
We  were  invited  into  Mrs.  Chow's  private  apartments. 


2o4  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

These  were  astonishingly  beautiful  with  rich  carvings, 
embroidered  hangings,  and  the  richest  of  Chinese  furnish- 
ings.    We  were  informed  that  this  was  the  first  time  that 
foreigners  had  ever  entered  these  private  rooms.     This 
visit  was  unfolding  rare  pages  of  Chinese  culture  and 
home  life.     There  were  many  rooms,  and  all  were  har- 
moniously clothed  in  elegant  grandeur.     With  modest, 
quiet  demeanor,  these  sealed  doors  were  opened  to  the 
foreigner.     We  were  then  escorted  into  a  theatre  and 
seated  at  a  dinner  table  in  front  of  the  stage.     The  stage 
was  well  lighted  with  gas,  and  both  stage  and  costumes 
were  gorgeous,  brilliant,  and  rich.     The  play,  a  special 
one  for  the  American  Minister,  was  the  story  of  the  pro- 
motion of  a  high  official  to  still  higher  honors  as  a  reward 
for  notable  services.     The  star  performers  came  first  upon 
the  stage  to  give  the  Minister  and  his  party  a  welcome 
and  to  extend  good  wishes.     Mr.  Lee  Chee  kindly  inter- 
preted the  play  in  its  advancing  stages.     The  people, 
surroundings,  music,  singing,  acting,  costumes,  stage  — 
everything,  formed  a  brilliant,  harmonious  whole.     Back 
of  everything  the  Chinese  do  is  a  meaning  which  asks  for 
a  response.     Foreigners  do  not  know  the  language  of 
these  long-time   customs,    and   seemingly  disregard,  the 
polite  harmony  so  clear  to  the  Chinese.     It  grieves  me 
not  to  be  able  to  express  to  them  my  appreciation  and 
gratitude  when  they  show  respect  and  honor.     They  have 
established  systems  of  etiquette  which  do  not  change. 
These  they  teach  thoroughly  to  the  young.     In  all  classes, 
they  know  what  they  are  expected  to  do  under  different 
circumstances,   and   strict  adherence  to  these  rules  of 
etiquette   is   almost   sure   to   bring   good   results.     The 
Chinese  ladies  were  above  us  in  an  open  veranda.     There 


HONOR  TO   ENGLISH    KING        205 

were  many  other  tables  in  the  room,  and  seated  at  these 
were  other  Chinese  officials.  We  remained  until  half-past 
ten.  We  were  privileged  to  take  our  departure  when  we 
wished,  but  the  Chinese  remain  all  night  at  these  notable 
feasts. 

When  the  play  was  ended,  the  one  for  the  American 
Minister,  we  were  shown  through  other  apartments  fur- 
nished with  the  finest  Chinese  productions.  The  son  bade 
us  good-bye  at  the  table.  Mrs.  Chow  came  out  again  and 
cordially  and  politely  extended  her  good  wishes.  The 
daughters  we  did  not  meet  again.  I  need  not  assure  you 
that  our  evening  was  a  delight  to  us. 

Marked  honors  were  shown  the  American  Minister 
here  as  elsewhere  in  our  trips,  as  China  has  great  respect 
for  our  Government.  We  carry  many  treasures  from 
Canton  in  hand,  mind,  and  heart. 

Happy,  happy  farewell  to  the  strange  old  city! 

At  Hong  Kong,  Sir  Henry  and  Lady  Blake  entertained 
us  at  dinner.  Sir  Henry  is  the  Governor  General  of  this 
British  island.  When  dinner  was  about  half  over,  Sir 
Henry  and  all  arose  and  drank  to  the  health  of  the  British 
King.  He  said  that  it  has  been  customary-  the  world 
over,  where  England  reigns,  to  drink  to  the  health  of  the 
much  beloved  Queen,  now  to  the  King.  They  have  a 
fixed  hour  for  all  to  show  this  respect  and  honor.  In 
this  way,  each  hour  of  the  twenty- four,  he  is  remembered. 
We  bowed  assent,  as  we  realized  that  the  sun  never  sets 
on  the  British  domain.  A  beautiful  custom,  to  remember 
with  good  cheer  the  ruler  of  one's  country. 

Admiral  Kemp  sent  a  launch,  and  we  visited  the  great 
Kentucky,  one  of  our  best  warships.  It  is  mighty  in  its 
power,  and  its  mechanism  is  wonderful.     The  playing  of 


206  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

the  band,  the  salutes  of  men  and  guns,  the  official  atten- 
tions, the  perfect  order  and  cleanliness  of  the  great  ship, 
all  bear  a  dignified  grandeur.  As  our  launch  moved  out, 
the  vessel  began  to  fire  her  many  guns  in  honor  of  the 
American  Minister,  who  stood  with  head  uncovered  in 
view  of  the  ship  until  the  last  gun  was  given.  As  we  left 
Hong  Kong  and  passed  out  of  the  bay  and  by  the  Ken- 
tucky, the  band  played,  and  our  flag  was  dipped  three 
times  to  the  American  Minister.  Captain  Green  of  our 
steamer  Nippon  hoisted  Ithe  American  flag  and  dipped  a 
response. 

We  are  now  truly  homeward  bound. 

[To  a  Nephew] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
December  20,  igoi. 

I  HAVE  returned  later  than  Mr.  Conger  from  our 
delightful  visit  to  our  home  land,  and  I  am  now  with  him 
in  Peking.    Our  Legation  home  extends  its  warm  welcome. 

You  ask  about  preparation  for  work.  My  revered 
father  used  to  say,  "Remember  there  is  always  a  chance 
for  him  who  prepares  himself  for  a  chance."  This 
preparation  is  made  by  working  from  principle.  Uni- 
formly and  steadfastly  stand  for  it  in  all  your  living. 
Principle  is  so  imperative  that  we  cannot  mock  it  if  we 
try.  Your  opponents,  or  those  not  of  your  opinion,  will 
respect  your  honesty.  If  we  are  dishonest  to  principle, 
we  belittle  ourselves  in  our  own  sight  and  we  cannot  do 
our  best.     One  writer,  in  speaking  of  China,  says: 

"We  are  inclined  to  measure  this  people  by  a  yard-stick 
of  our  own  construction,  the  model  of  which  is  formed  in  our- 


THE  AMERICAN  MARINES         207 

selves.  They  are  right  or  wrong,  wise  or  unwise,  according 
as  they  copy  or  depart  from  the  fashion  which  we  have  arbi- 
trarily set  up,  the  ideals  formed  within  the  essentially  narrow 
limits  of  our  personal  surroundings." 

This  yard-stick  has  not  the  principle  of  which  I  am 
speaking. 

The  American  marines,  our  first  guards,  arrived  in 
Peking  in  November,  1898,  and  remained  until  March, 
1899.  These  men  were  in  every  way  an  honor  to  our 
country  and  an  honor  to  themselves.  They  were  per- 
mitted and  trusted  to  go  out  into  the  city,  and  they  never 
abused  that  liberty.  When  they  left  Peking  Mr.  Conger 
wrote  for  them  a  strong  letter  of  recommendation  to 
Admiral  Dewey  at  Manila.  To-day,  in  talking  with 
Mr.  G.,  one  of  the  missionaries,  he  said,  "The  marines 
told  me  that  they  were  delighted  over  the  letter  Mr. 
Conger  wrote  to  Admiral  Dewey  about  them,  and  that 
they  should  not  be  surprised  if  Mr.  Conger  shook  hands 
with  them  when  they  left."  Mr.  Conger  did  not  know  of 
this  thought,  but,  as  they  were  standing  in  line  just  before 
starting,  he  stepped  in  front  of  them  and  spoke  a  few 
words  of  good  cheer  and  good-bye  and  shook  hands  with 
each  man.  They  were  pleased,  as  it  is  not  a  common 
thing  for  a  foreign  Minister  to  show  such  attention  to  men 
in  the  ranks.  They  gave  three  cheers  for  the  American 
Minister  and  three  cheers  for  the  American  Legation  at 
Peking,  then  again  three  cheers  for  the  foreign  citizens  at 
Peking.  They  carried  away  with  them  the  good  will  and 
respect,  not  only  of  their  countrymen,  but  of  the  com- 
munity. Why?  Because  there  was  principle  at  heart. 
They  had  earned  these  prizes.  They  had  prepared  them- 
selves to  receive  them. 


208  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

How  much  has  come  into  our  experience  since  the 
departure  of  those  men!  It  seems  years  ago.  Other 
guards  have  come,  fought,  and  died.  Armies  came 
and  relieved  us,  and  are  here  now.  Only  think  of  it! 
Eleven  nations  are  working  together  for  peace,  and  they 
are  doing  the  work  on  foreign  soil  and  in  an  enemy's  city. 
Such  a  situation  as  this  the  world  has  never  known.  May 
better  things  come  to  China  and  to  the  foreign  nations! 

The  old  year  is  drawing  to  its  close,  and  the  Chinese 
are  making  great  preparation  for  the  coming  of  the  new. 
"The  Chinese  year  is  lunar,  the  beginning  being  marked 
by  the  first  new  moon  following  the  passage  of  the  sun 
into  the  constellation  of  Aquarius,  imposing  limits  of 
January  twenty-first  aj  the  earliest  date  and  February 
nineteenth  as  the  latest."  There  are  usually  twelve 
moons  in  a  Chinese  year.  Sometimes  there  are  thirteen 
moons,  then  two  moons  bear  the  same  number.  Last 
year  there  were  two  eighth  moons.  This  occurrence  is 
considered  by  the  Chinese  as  a  bad  omen.  The  burn- 
ing of  the  tower  over  the  Imperial  gate  was  another  bad 
omen.    They  feared  their  gods  in  1900. 

The  Chinese  celebrate  the  birthdays  of  their  gods. 
As  there  are  gods  many,  there  are  celebrations  many. 
To  illustrate:  One  night  I  noticed  unusual  lights,  music, 
and  feast-making  in  the  stables.  I  asked  my  first  boy, 
Wang,  the  occasion  for  this.  He  replied,  "Mafoos  cele- 
brate birthday  of  god  for  stables.  They  ask  god  care  for 
horses  —  care  for  work  all  year."  It  is  a  universal  cele- 
bration among  the  mafoos.  The  cooks  celebrate  the 
birthday  of  the  kitchen  god.  Thus  it  is  through  the  long 
list  of  celebrations  in  honor  of  the  gods  to  whom  they 
look  for  help  in  their  work. 


MESSENGER  SYSTEMS  209 

I  have  never  told  you  of  our  " chit-book"  system; 
it  helps  us  to  know  just  what  we  are  doing.  We  prepare 
our  packages,  write  our  notes,  letters,  or  invitations, 
then  take  our  " chit-book,"  a  blank  book  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  write  the  name  and  address  of  the  one  who  is 
to  receive  this  package  or  letter;  we  then  ring  the  bell  for 
the  first  boy.  He  places  the  Chinese  address  upon  the 
package  or  letter,  then  starts  a  messenger  off  to  deliver 
it.  The  receiver  "chits"  or  checks  it  with  his  name,  and 
back  the  "chit-book"  comes  to  us  and  we  know  it  is 
all  right. 

There  is  another  messenger  about  which  I  am  going 
to  tell  you.  One  of  China's  old-time  customs  is  the  use 
of  carrier  pigeons.  These  little  things  of  beauty  serse 
their  masters  well.  Many  important  messages  and 
business  transactions  have  been  entrusted  to  these  birds, 
as  they  are  trustworthy  whether  the  distance  be  short 
or  long.  The  merchants,  brokers,  and  other  business 
men  gather  at  the  Board  of  Trade  very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. After  they  have  learned  the  rate  of  exchange  and 
other  business,  they  fasten  a  message  to  the  tail  of  the 
pigeon.  Then,  in  order  to  frighten  away  the  hawks, 
they  choose  a  whistle  from  their  almost  endless  variety, 
fasten  it  to  the  bird,  and  send  this  little  messenger  out 
to  find  its  destination.  These  whistles  are  made  of 
bamboo  or  gourds  in  many  shapes,  colors,  and  weights. 
Some  are  large  with  many  low- toned  pipes;  others  are 
small  with  higher  tones.  Some  have  many  pipes  like 
an  organ  and  are  artistically  made.  Early  in  the  morning 
the  air  resounds  with  this  musical  chorus  of  myriads 
of  piped  whistles  which  are  fastened  upon  the  birds  in 
such  a  way  as  to  catch  the  wind.     Each  bird  knows  his 


clio  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

home  and  hastens  to  it.  The  messengers  despatched, 
the  master's  work  is  done,  and  he  chats  with  his  friends 
over  his  cup  of  tea. 

The  Chinese  formerly  built  for  all  time,  and  never 
with  the  thought  of  repairs.  There  is  much  in  China 
to-day  over  twenty  centuries  old  which  proclaims  the 
quality  of  their  substantial  building.  The  Great  Wall 
of  China,  the  Grand  Canal,  the  arched  bridges,  the  temple 
walls  from  three  to  four  feet  thick,  the  pagodas,  the  Great 
Bell  still  perfect  in  its  fifth  century,  the  wonderful  astro- 
nomical instruments  of  the  Peking  Observatory,  and  many 
other  structures  tell  a  mighty  story  of  the  strength  and 
cohesive  power  that  builded  them.  After  the  large  gate- 
way was  opened  in  the  city  wall  above  the  Water  Gate, 
it  was  necessary  to  remove  an  arched  bridge  which 
spanned  the  canal.  This  bridge  was  built  of  fine  marble 
with  many  cemented  and  bolted  layers.  This  cement 
and  these  metal  bolts  defied  the  power  of  blasting.  They 
had  been  holding  their  place  for  five  hundred  years,  and 
they  challenged  man  to  remove  them.  Only  constant 
picking  and  blasting  made  the  bridge  yield.  In  a  lan- 
guage of  endurance  it  contested  every  inch  of  the  inva- 
sion. Such  qualities  in  the  hearts  and  minds  of  a  people 
forge  a  nation  that  is  hard  to  rend  asunder.  What  is 
the  quality  of  the  new  " progress,"  about  which  we  hear 
so  much  ? 

When  will  the  pendulum  of  time  stop  its  constant 
swinging,  quiet  its  noisy  ticking,  and  let  eternity's  low 
sweet  voice  be  heard  ?  Did  you  ever  think  if  we  tarry  a 
moment  and  listen  we  can  catch  whisperings  of  this 
sweet  silence  even  in  this  mortal  living?  Some  do  catch 
them,   and   these  whisperings  vitalize   history   and   live 


LAMA  TEMPLE  SERVICE  211 

beyond  any  written  word.  Eternity's  gift  is  the  Now; 
eternity's  light  is  ever  silently  sparkling  in  this  Now;  with 
an  intuitive  eye  we  recognize  this  Now;  with  delight 
we  inhale  the  fragrance  of  this  Now;  with  acuteness  we 
hear  the  melody  of  this  Now;  with  sensitiveness  we  feel 
this  Now;  and  with  gratitude  we  taste  the  joys  of  this 
Now.  Eternity  is  mental,  and  eternity's  gifts  are  mental. 
Recorded  history  is  only  the  memory  of  the  expressions 
of  thought.  Some  of  these  thoughts  bear  so  much  of 
stable  truth  and  eternal  life  in  them  that  they  stand  the 
tests  of  time.  The  Bible  is  the  Book  of  all  books  that 
proclaims  most  their  stability.  To-day,  its  every  page 
glows  for  mankind  as  never  before  with  the  activity  of 
Life,  the  joys  of  Truth,  and  the  tender  protection  of  Love. 
May  you  enter  this  activity,  taste  these  joys,  and  be 
conscious  of  this  protection  always. 

[To  a  Sister] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
March  9,  IQ02. 
MY  recent  visit  to  a  special  service  at  the  Lama 
Temple  was  full  of  interest.  The  service  was  a  peace- 
offering  to  the  god  of  peace  and  prosperity.  With  chanting 
and  other  music,  about  two  hundred  Lama  priests  entered 
the  large  hall  of  worship.  In  the  centre,  in  front  of  the 
altar  on  which  were  burning  candles  and  incense,  sat 
the  living  representative  of  the  long  line  of  Lama  priests. 
He  was  in  his  altar  chair,  and  was  dressed  in  rich  robes. 
In  front  of  him  was  a  table  and  upon  it  were  a  bell,  a  rattle, 
holy  water,  and  other  articles  of  worship,  which  he  used 
at  intervals  during  the  ceremony.     The  other  priests  sat 


2i2  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

on  three  long  rows  of  stools  on  either  side  and  seemed  to 
be  classified  and  to  take  their  parts  according  to  their 
order.  Their  chanting,  ringing  of  bells,  clapping  of 
cymbals,  tinkling  of  rattles,  drinking  of  tea,  burning  of 
incense,  kotowing,  and  putting  on  of  rich  robes  and  knight- 
like hats;  the  marching,  the  placing  before  them  of  a 
skeleton  image,  the  chanting,  counting,  and  hand  man- 
oeuvres connected  with  much  else,  awakened  a  strange 
line  of  reasoning  as  I  stood  there  for  an  hour  intensely- 
interested.  While  in  this  temple,  I  noticed  there  was 
burning  oil  in  small  brass  cups  before  the  Buddhas. 
This  oil  is  of  the  very  best,  and  gives  a  white  light  which 
never  goes  out.  Is  not  this  a  little  thought-ray  from 
eternity's  pure  radiance?  I  left  the  Lama  Temple  with 
food  for  thought,  research,  and  reflection. 

There  were  no  Chinese  women  in  this  great  hall  of 
worship.  I  meditated.  My  thoughts  turned  to  the  past 
and  to  the  different  stages  of  the  world's  worship.  This 
problem  presented  itself  to  me,  and  I  took  it  home  to 
work  upon:  Why  should  the  worship  of  the  Supreme 
Creator,  Protector,  and  Sustainer  of  all  good  be  so  hedged 
in  by  forms,  ceremonies,  laws,  and  rituals,  as  to  bar  out 
woman  ? 

The  death  of  the  great  Viceroy,  Li  Hung  Chang, 
efficient  diplomat,  and  China's  strong  adviser  and  worker, 
is  lamented  the  world  over.  In  youth,  he  was  studious 
and  ambitious  to  win  the  honors  of  his  country.  This  he 
surely  did.  The  Examination  Halls  conferred  upon  him. 
their  highest  recognition  of  work  well  done,  and  opened 
the  way  for  him  to  bear  the  highest  official  positions  of 
this  vast  Empire. 

Shortly  after  Li  Hung  Chang's  death,  a  very  large 


FUNERAL  OF  A  NOBLE  213 

announcement  card  was  sent  to  his  friends  and  the 
Diplomats.  Mr.  Conger  and  his  staff  called  and  paid 
their  respects.  As  we  had  exchanged  calls  with  the  ladies 
of  the  household,  it  was  asked  if  it  would  be  in  accord- 
ance with  their  wishes  for  us  to  pay  our  respects  to  the 
dead  and  to  extend  our  sympathies  to  the  living.  This 
privilege  was  cordially  granted.  We  passed  through 
court  after  court  filled  with  people  and  with  quantities  of 
gifts,  expressing  sympathy,  high  esteem,  and  honor. 
This  was  our  first  visit  to  a  Chinese  house  of  mourning. 
The  sounds  of  wailing  music,  the  coarse  white  sack-cloth 
of  the  mourners  and  servants,  the  many  banners,  the 
almost  numberless  signs  of  sorrow,  the  food,  the  altar 
with  its  shrine  and  shrine  accessories,  all  combined  to 
make  the  scene  weird,  yet  so  intense  that  we  partook  of 
the  spirit  of  the  solemn  occasion.  Mr.  Williams,  our 
Legation  Chinese  Secretary,  accompanied  us  to  the 
shrine  room,  where  the  son  of  Earl  Li  Hung  Chang 
received  us.  After  a  few  moments  of  condolence,  we 
took  our  leave.  The  ceremonies  were  prolonged  into 
days  and  weeks.  The  burning  of  funeral  emblems  took 
place  at  proper  times;  the  wailing  music  continued,  and 
offerings  and  sacrifices  were  made  that  foreigners  know 
not  of. 

The  son  said  that  if  we  so  desired  he  would  inform  us 
when  the  procession  would  start  on  its  long  journey.  We 
assured  him  that  we  should  feel  honored.  There  had 
been  many  shrines  and  resting  pavilions  erected  along 
the  route;  nothing  was  left  undone  that  respect,  honor, 
and  wealth  could  bestow.  To  comprehend,  even  in  part, 
the  meaning  of  a  Chinese  funeral  procession,  we  must 
see  it  and  study  it,  for  each  part  has  its  meaning,  and  each 


2i4  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

performer  has  his  duty  in  the  great  whole.  Any  language 
would  beggar  a  description  of  this  wonderful  procession 
bearing  the  remains  of  Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang  out  of 
Peking.  It  extended  miles  and  was  brilliant  in  its  color- 
ings, in  its  embroideries  and  strange  designs.  There 
were  rich  silk  and  satin  embroidered  canopies,  umbrellas, 
chairs,  and  emblems  representing  high  Imperial,  official, 
and  scholarly  honors.  The  catafalque  bearing  the  re- 
mains was  of  the  largest,  richest,  and  most  beautiful. 
The  great  number  of  uniformed  bearers  and  escorts  were 
in  accordance  with  this  Viceroy's  high  rank.  All  compos- 
ing this  early  morning  ceremony  helped  to  form  a  bewil- 
dering picture  that  was  slowly  moving  away  from  us.  We 
could  not  know  its  meaning,  and  we  could  never  see  it 
again.  Man  surely  approved  the  deeds  of  this  strong 
character,  from  China's  Imperial  throne  to  her  humblest 
subject.  This  whole  picture  was,  to  me,  out  of  the 
realm  of  reality,  and  yet  I  knew  that  each  part  of  this 
wonderful  procession  held  its  deep  meaning  and  was 
real  to  those  people.  I  mentally  cried  out,  "Halt!  tell 
me!"  I  have  seen  in  China  many  small  and  large  fu- 
neral processions,  but  this  one,  in  magnitude  and  splendor, 
surpassed  all  that  I  could  extravagantly  imagine;  there- 
fore I  shall  not  try  to  describe  it.  In  the  streets  and  upon 
the  wall,  we  saw  it  in  detail  and  as  a  whole.  Outside 
of  the  city  wall  was  a  shrine  building  to  which  we  were 
invited  during  a  special  service.  The  large,  beautifully 
and  richly  covered  catafalque  stopped  in  front  of  this 
building  and  the  sons  entered  and  performed  sacred  rites. 
Then  the  long,  gorgeous,  extremely  Oriental  procession 
passed  on  and  on  until  only  the  memory  of  it  was  left. 
The  remains  of  this  great  man  were  taken  to  his  home 


Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang 


RETURN   OF  IMPERIAL  COURT     215 

in  South  China.  Li  Hung  Chang  was  born  in  1823. 
He  lived  to  the  age  of  seventy-eight  years  and  served 
his  country  most  ably.  Age  did  not  make  him  halt  in  his 
proficient  service.  His  sons  cannot  hold  office  nor  per- 
form any  official  duty  until  after  the  season  of  two  years' 
mourning  closes.    His  grandson  will  bear  his  title. 

A  marked  exception  to  the  general  rule  that  political 
preferment  must  come  first  through  the  test  of  the  Ex- 
amination Halls  is  seen  in  one  of  the  most  able  of  China's 
statesmen,  Yaun-Shih-Kai.  He  is  of  a  strong  family,  and 
has  proved  himself  most  proficient  in  meeting  his  country's 
needs.  In  1898,  he  shrewdly  baffled  the  plot  to  take 
Jung  Lu's  life  and  to  imprison  the  Empress  Dowager. 
The  defeating  of  this  plan  caused  the  coup  d'etat,  and  the 
Empress  Dowager  was  called  back  to  the  throne.  Dur- 
ing the  Boxer  uprising,  Yaun-Shih-Kai  maintained  peace 
in  his  Province  and  thwarted  these  bloodthirsty  men  in 
their  fiendish  designs.  Strong  men  are  coming  to  the 
front  from  many  directions  and  stand  battling  for  the 
preservation  of  China. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
March   14,   1902. 
ACCORDING  to  my  list  book  I  have  not  told  you 
about  the  return  of  the  Imperial  Court  to  Peking  and 
into  the  Forbidden  City. 

On  January  seventh  the  Emperor,  Empress  Dowager, 
Empress,  and  their  Court  returned  to  their  forsaken 
capital.  This  was  a  wonderful  day.  The  future  will 
detect  more  in  it  than  the  present  understands.     It  must 


2i6  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

have  been  a  mighty  Hand  that  lifted  the  heavy,  blood- 
stained curtain  between  China  and  the  eleven  nations, 
and  made  it  possible  to  lay  down  animosities  and  extend 
friendship's  hand  warm  with  pledges  of  forgiveness  and 
good  will.  O  Father  of  Love,  help  us  to  know  Thee 
better,  and  still  better. 

For  months,  there  had  been  extensive  preparation 
made  by  the  Chinese  to  get  everything  in  "proper"  order 
for  the  return  of  the  Court,  and  they  surely  did  well. 
Paint,  plaster,  and  decorations  upon  the  old  and  the  new 
buildings  made  them  smile  a  bright,  cheery  welcome  to 
Their  Majesties.  As  the  massive  gateway  towers  had 
been  burned,  in  their  place  were  improvised  towers  be- 
decked with  royal  emblematic  decorations  in  the  Impe- 
rial colorings.  Between  the  lines  of  Chinese  soldiers, 
who  were  kneeling  with  bowed  heads,  the  Court  passed 
with  more  than  the  usual  display  and  ceremony. 

The  Chinese  had  prepared  a  building,  to  which  they 
invited  the  foreign  Diplomats  to  witness  the  return  of  the 
Court.  Order  characterized  the  entire  proceedings,  as 
China's  high  officials,  army,  and  large  escort,  attended  the 
Court  into  the  city,  through  the  cities,  and  on  into  their 
Forbidden  City,  which  is  so  sacred  to  them.  This  was 
all  done  in  the  midst  of  eight  large  armies  of  eight  large 
nations.  It  was  a  brave  act  on  the  part  of  China,  but  she 
passed  into  the  quiet,  sacred  solemnity  of  the  pledges  of 
peace,  and  was  not  harmed. 

A  few  days  later,  six  foreign  Ministers  presented  their 
credentials  to  the  Emperor  in  an  audience.  For  the  first 
time  in  China's  history,  the  foreign  Ministers  entered  the 
Forbidden  City,  and  entered  it  at  the  front  gate.  After 
the  official  ceremony  with  the  Emperor,  they  were  for  the 


General  Yaun-Shih-Kai 


AN  AUDIENCE  AT  COURT        217 

first  time  received  by  the  Empress  Dowager.  On  January 
twenty-seventh,  the  gentlemen  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps 
were  received  in  a  body;  the  ceremony  was  formal,  dig- 
nified, and  most  respectful.  The  Empress  Dowager  was 
seated  on  the  throne. 

On  February  first,  the  Emperor  and  the  Empress 
Dowager  received  the  ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  the 
wives  of  the  Commanders  of  the  Legation  Guards,  and 
the  children,  in  an  audience.  A  wonderful  day  it  was! 
Can  we  not  catch  glimpses  of  a  distant  union  as  the  rounds 
in  the  ladder  take  us  upward  ?  Who  could  desire  to  cast 
one  shadow  across  this  path  of  progress?  Many  days  of 
preparation  for  the  occasion  came  and  went,  and  on  the 
beautiful  morning  of  February  first,  the  Dean  of  the  Corps, 
the  ladies,  children,  and  interpreters  met  at  the  American 
Legation  and,  after  refreshments  and  picture-taking,  left 
for  the  Palace.  The  twenty-nine  green  sedan  chairs  with 
six  or  eight  bearers  each,  the  Chinese  mounted  escorts, 
and  the  mounted  Legation  guards  and  mafoos  made  an 
impressive  procession  upon  our  long  ride  to  the  Forbidden 
City.  We  passed  along  the  high  wall,  into  and  through 
the  Imperial  City,  on  and  on  to  the  second  east  gate  of  the 
Forbidden  City.  Here  we  all  left  our  green  official  chairs 
and  took  red  Imperial  chairs,  which  were  carried  by  black- 
robed  eunuchs  to  the  court  gate  of  the  Palace,  where  we 
were  received  by  high  officials  and  escorted  to  a  waiting- 
room,  where  tea  was  served.  Chinese  officials  announced 
the  hour  for  audience  and  led  the  way.  The  Dean  and 
other  guests  followed  in  order.  Chinese  court  women 
took  our  arms  as  we  passed  out  of  the  waiting-room  and 
attended  us  to  the  door  of  the  throne  building.  On  our 
way  through  the  courts,  we  passed  up  marble  steps  with 


2i8  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

most  wonderfully  carved  marble  slabs  in  the  centre,  and 
carved  white  marble  balustrades,  and  on  through  gorgeous 
passageways.  These  passages  are  massive  in  structure 
and  brilliant  in  decorations.  They  have  heavy,  yellow, 
extended  tile  roofs  supported  by  decorated  teak-wood 
columns.  Standing  on  the  broad  platform  at  the  top  of 
the  white  marble  steps  of  the  last  pavilion  in  its  glow  of 
colorings  and  decorations  were  the  Princesses  of  the  Court, 
and,  at  either  side,  the  high  officials.  They  were  all 
attired  in  rich,  Oriental  costumes  and  adornments.  Their 
natural  grace  of  manner  and  extreme  courtesy  intensified 
the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  picture  was  a  fairy  one, 
and  yet  the  bright  sun  was  shining  upon  a  living  picture. 
I  never  saw  its  equal  in  artistic  beauty.  The  Chinese 
study  the  effect  of  color  and  the  multiplied  shades  of 
color.  Never  have  I  more  greatly  desired  the  power  of 
innate  and  cultured  art  of  word  and  pencil  to  express 
what  I  felt  and  saw  in  that  native  Chinese  picture.  It 
stood  for  far  more  than  extreme  beauty.  Would  that  the 
tip  of  my  pen  were  clever  enough,  and  that  the  daintiness 
and  richness  of  my  ink  were  so  quality-blessed  that  they 
might  tell  this  valuable  story.  These  Princesses,  with  a 
gracious  recognition,  turned  and  passed  before  us  and 
took  their  places  near  the  Empress  Dowager. 

At  the  door  of  the  throne  room  we  halted,  fell  into 
our  rightful  places,  and  entered,  bowing  three  times  at 
intervals  as  we  approached  the  throne  of  Her  Majesty. 
She  sat  back  of  a  long  table,  upon  which  lay  a  beautiful 
coral  sceptre.  As  we  approached,  the  Empress  Dowager 
smiled  a  recognition  to  me,  as  I  was  the  only  one  of  the 
group  of  ladies  she  had  met  before.  As  the  Dean  of  the 
ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  I  addressed  Her  Majesty 


ADDRESS  TO   EMPRESS  DOWAGER    219 

on  behalf  of  all  the  ladies.  Mr.  Williams,  American 
Secretary,  interpreted  for  me.     I  said: 

"Your  Majesty,  the  ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps 
have  responded  with  pleasure  to  your  kind  invitation  for 
this  audience;  and  we  most  heartily  congratulate  you 
and  all  the  Imperial  Court  that  the  unfortunate  situation 
which  led  you  to  abandon  your  beautiful  capital  has  been 
so  happily  resolved,  and  that  you  are  now  permitted  to 
return  to  it  in  freedom  and  in  peace.  Your  safe  return 
to  Peking  and  to  this  undestroyed  palace  will  furnish 
pages  to  future  history  little  comprehended  at  this  time. 

"The  events  of  the  past  two  years  must  be  as  painful 
to  you  as  they  are  to  the  rest  of  the  world ;  but  the  sting 
of  the  sad  experience  may  be  eliminated,  and  we  sincerely 
hope  that  it  will  be,  through  the  establishment  of  better, 
franker,  more  trustful,  and  friendlier  relations  between 
China  and  the  other  peoples  of  the  earth.  The  world  is 
moving  forward.  The  tide  of  progress  cannot  be  stayed, 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  China  will  join  the  great  sister- 
hood of  nations  in  the  grand  march.  May  all  the  nations, 
united,  manifest  forbearance,  respect,  and  good  will, 
moving  on  to  the  mutual  good  of  all. 

"The  recent  Imperial  Edicts  give  promise  of  great 
good  to  your  people  and  to  your  vast  Empire,  and  it  is 
our  earnest  prayer  that  God  may  preserve  Your  Majesty 
and  the  Emperor  and  guide  you  to  the  fullest  fruition  of 
this  promise." 

When  I  finished  reading,  Prince  Ch'ing  stepped  upon 
the  throne  and,  kneeling  to  the  Empress  Dowager,  took 
from  her  hand  her  reply.  Then  followed  the  presenta- 
tion of  the  ladies  and  children  according  to  rank.  The 
Empress  Dowager  took  the  hand  of  each  lady  and  child, 


22o  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

and  this  finished  the  formal  ceremonies  with  Her  Majesty. 
We  were  then  presented  to  the  Emperor,  who  took  the 
hand  of  each  lady.  After  these  presentations  we  were 
escorted  to  another  large  room,  where  an  informal  recep- 
tion was  held.  The  Empress  Dowager  was  there  and  as 
we  entered  she  asked  for  "Kang  Tai  Tai" —  my  Chinese 
name  —  and  I  was  presented  to  her.  She  took  my  hands 
in  both  of  hers,  and  her  feelings  overcame  her.  When 
she  was  able  to  control  her  voice,  she  said,  "I  regret,  and 
grieve  over  the  late  troubles.  It  was  a  grave  mistake, 
and  China  will  hereafter  be  a  friend  to  foreigners.  No 
such  affair  will  again  happen.  China  will  protect  the 
foreigner,  and  we  hope  to  be  friends  in  the  future." 

"We  believe  that  you  are  sincere,"  I  replied.  "By 
knowing  each  other  better  we  believe  we  shall  become 
friends." 

The  Empress  Dowager  then  asked  if  there  were  any 
other  ladies  present  who  were  in  the  siege.  Mrs.  Bain- 
bridge  of  the  American  Legation  and  Mrs.  Saussine  of 
the  French  Legation  were  presented.  She  again  turned 
to  me,  extending  both  hands,  and  took  mine  with  a  few 
uninterpreted  Chinese  words.  And  then  taking  from 
one  of  her  ringers  a  heavy,  carved  gold  ring  set  with  an 
elegant  pearl,  she  placed  it  upon  one  of  mine ;  then  from 
her  wrists  she  took  choice  bracelets  and  placed  them  upon 
my  wrists.  To  each  lady  she  presented  gifts  of  great 
value.  The  children  and  the  interpreters  were  also 
kindly  remembered. 

From  here  we  were  escorted  to  the  banquet  hall,  where 
three  long  tables  were  spread  with  the  choicest  Chinese 
food.  We  were  asked  to  be  seated.  A  vacant  chair  was 
at  the  end  of  the  table,  at  my  left.    As  the  Empress  Dow- 


ASSURANCES  OF  PEACE  221 

ager  entered  we  all  arose.  She  came  to  this  vacant  chair, 
took  her  glass  of  wine,  and  we  did  likewise.  She  placed 
her  glass  in  my  left  hand,  gracefully  pressed  my  two  hands 
together,  so  that  the  glasses  touched,  and  said,  "  United." 
She  then  took  my  glass,  leaving  me  hers,  and  raised  the 
glass  to  all,  and  all  responded.  Then  cups  of  tea  were 
served.  The  Empress  Dowager  took  one  with  both 
hands  and  placing  it  in  mine,  lifted  it  to  my  lips.  After 
all  were  served  with  tea,  we  were  invited  to  be  seated. 
The  Empress  Dowager  then  took  a  filled  biscuit,  broke 
it,  and  placed  a  small  piece  of  it  in  my  mouth.  She  paid 
like  compliments  to  other  Ministers'  wives,  and  placed  a 
morsel  upon  the  plates  of  other  guests  at  the  same  table. 
Chinese  Princesses,  three  of  whom  I  had  met  at  the  first 
audience,  were  seated  with  us.  They  smilingly  bowed 
a  recognition  and  offered  their  hands.  The  Empress 
Dowager's  adopted  daughter,  the  Imperial  Princess,  and 
her  Princess  niece,  stood  by  her  and  showed  us  thoughtful 
courtesy.  The  appointed  Minister  to  England,  kneeling, 
acted  as  interpreter.  We  talked  about  the  returning  of 
the  Court,  the  loss  of  Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  Chinese 
schools  which  I  had  visited,  the  meeting  of  higher  Chinese 
people,  the  edicts,  and  other  events  in  this  line.  Our 
conversation  was  not  in  the  least  labored. 

The  Empress  Dowager  again  and  again  assured  me 
that  such  troubles  as  those  of  the  past  two  years  should 
never  be  repeated.  Her  manner  was  thoughtful,  serious 
in  every  way,  and  ever  mindful  of  the  comfort  and  pleasure 
of  her  guests.  Her  eyes  are  bright,  keen,  and  watchful 
that  nothing  may  escape  her  observation.  Her  face  does 
not  show  marks  of  cruelty  or  severity;  her  voice  is  low, 
soft,  and  attractive;   her  touch  is  gentle  and  kind. 


222  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

The  Empress,  the  Emperor's  wife,  was  with  us  before 
we  entered  the  banquet  hall.  She  is  young,  beautiful, 
and  has  most  attractive,  gentle  manners.  She  was  richly 
dressed,  jewelled,  and  daintily  painted.  The  Emperor 
was  in  the  banquet  hall  at  times,  either  sitting  or  standing. 
He  is  rather  small,  with  a  young,  bright  face;  his  eyes 
give  expression  to  his  smile.  He  did  not  impress  me  as 
being  a  frail  person. 

When  we  arose  from  the  table,  the  Empress  Dowager 
said,  "I  hope  that  we  shall  meet  oftener  and  become 
friends  by  knowing  one  another  better."  She  passed  on 
to  the  other  tables,  talked  with  the  ladies  and  children, 
and  then  left  the  room. 

Through  beautiful  apartments  and  grounds  we  were 
escorted  to  our  chairs  and,  as  we  passed  out  from  the 
Imperial  Court,  the  gates  of  the  Forbidden  City  were 
locked  behind  us.  We  departed  with  the  same  ceremony 
with  which  we  came.  This  historic  day  cannot  do  harm ; 
surely  its  deeds  must  have  enough  of  life  in  them  to  root, 
to  branch,  to  blossom,  and  to  fruit  into  strength  for  the 
nations.  After  this  audience,  the  Diplomatic  Corps 
requested  the  Chinese  Court  to  present  no  gifts  at  future 
audiences. 

There  were  sharp  and  bitter  criticisms  of  the  ladies' 
acceptance  of  the  Imperial  invitation.  Individual  bitter- 
ness still  has  its  poison  and  would  keep  the  breach  open 
and  even  widen  it  if  possible ;  but  national  wisdom,  through 
peace  negotiations,  seeks  to  close  the  breach.  Pressing 
the  thorns  of  sorrow  and  revenge  deeper  into  our  hearts 
will  never  lessen  the  sting  of  the  horrible  past  nor  permit 
us  to  rest  in  peace. 

These  are  strange  days  here  in  this  strange  land,  but 


CONCERTED   ACTION   OF  NATIONS    223 

they  are  most  interesting  and  instructive.  Never  before 
have  we  been  permitted  to  see  so  many  of  the  Chinese 
officials  as  we  are  this  winter.  The  frequent  association, 
socially  and  politically,  brings  a  better  understanding 
between  the  Chinese  and  foreigners,  but  it  is  going  to 
take  much  patient  work  and  forbearance  before  they  can 
think  and  act  in  harmony. 


[To  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
March  16,  1Q02. 

YOUR  letters  we  look  forward  to  with  a  love  that  is 
warm  and  true.  Bless  your  dear  heart !  You  are  always 
doing  good  —  manifesting  that  Good  which  never  fails. 
God  is  with  us.  Love  reigns,  let  the  human  seeming 
be  what  it  may. 

The  siege  at  Peking,  the  awful  troubles,  the  fearful 
sacrifices,  introduced  the  different  nations  of  the  earth  as 
they  never  had  been  introduced  before,  and  opened  the 
way  to  a  broader  knowledge  of  one  another  that  is  big 
with  promise.  What  China  and  the  other  nations  have 
done  during  1900  and  1901  is  beyond  any  human  power 
to  tell.  The  wonderful  Joint  Note,  the  Protocol,  the  safe 
returning  of  the  Imperial  Court  to  its  undestroyed  pal- 
aces, which  had  been  protected  and  turned  over  to  the 
Chinese  Government  by  foreign  troops,  all  now  show 
that  the  nations  did  better  than  they  knew. 

Being  Dean  of  the  ladies  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps, 
I  was  brought  in  close  contact  with  the  Empress  Dow- 
ager at  the  audiences  given  to  the  ladies.  I  have  not 
written  to  you  of  the  second  audience,  February  twenty- 


224  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

seventh.  While  much  of  it  was  like  the  first  in  ceremony, 
there  was  much  that  was  not  formal;  our  visit  was  de- 
lightful and  full  of  womanly  significance.  The  foreign 
Ministers  requested  that  no  presents  be  given  to  the 
ladies  by  the  Court.  The  Empress  Dowager,  after  sit- 
ting with  us  at  their  bountifully  spread  table,  took  us 
into  her  own  apartments.  When  we  were  taken  into  the 
most  private  room,  Her  Majesty  seemed  greatly  pleased 
and  waved  her  hand  toward  a  richly  draped  and  cush- 
ioned Wang  that  reached  across  one  end  of  the  long  room. 
At  the  back  of  the  Wang  there  was  a  shelf  filled  with  beau- 
tiful jade  and  other  ornaments,  and  seven  rather  small 
clocks,  all  running.  At  the  end  of  the  Wang  was  another 
shelf  on  which  were  dishes  of  fruit.  Her  Majesty  got 
upon  the  Wang  and  motioned  for  me  and  others  to  do  the 
same.  She  took  a  small  jade  baby  boy  from  the  shelf, 
tucked  it  into  my  hand,  and  with  actions  interpreted  her 
unspoken  words,  "Don't  tell."  I  took  the  dear  little 
thing  home,  and  I  prize  it.  It  showed  good  will,  and  I 
do  not  intend  to  let  go  of  that  thought.  We  drank 
tea  and  chatted  informally.  I  must  tell  you  right  here 
that  the  Empress  Dowager  is  learning  English.  I  will 
have  to  explain  how  when  you  are  with  us.  I  knew 
this  before  we  went,  and  strove  all  the  while  to  detect  her 
efforts  and  to  acknowledge  them.  After  the  audience 
was  over  and  we  were  quiet  in  our  dear  home  of  comfort, 
I  was  truly  grateful  that  I  could  see  the  good  spirit  mani- 
fested in  that  woman  whom  the  world  has  so  bitterly 
condemned. 

Your  father  and  I  talked  the  situation  over,  and  I 
said  that  I  believed  I  should  and  could  return  the  com- 
pliment of  the  Court  in  a  simple  way  acceptable  to  the 


TIFFIN  TO    PRINCESSES  225 

Empress  Dowager  and  the  high  officials.  It  has  occurred 
to  me  that  I  could  invite  the  Court  Princesses  to  a 
tiffin.  He  said  that  it  would  do  no  harm  to  try,  and  told 
me  to  consult  Lien  Fang,  who  could  present  the  matter 
to  Prince  Ch'ing,  and  that  he  in  turn  could  see  the 
Empress  Dowager  and  ascertain  her  position  before  I 
issued  my  invitations.  They  seemed  greatly  pleased, 
and  I  sent  back  word  for  them  to  please  make  the  selec- 
tion of  the  Princesses,  and  send  a  list  of  names  according 
to  rank.  This  they  did.  The  day  was  set,  and  invita- 
tions were  sent  out.  I  will  not  write  their  names,  as 
that  would  not  make  you  any  wiser,  but  I  will  tell  you 
who  they  are:  the  Empress  Dowager's  adopted  daugh- 
ter, the  Imperial  Princess,  the  Empress  Dowager's  niece, 
who  is  a  sister  of  the  Empress,  Prince  Ch'ing's  two  wives 
and  three  daughters;  the  granddaughter  of  Prince  Kung, 
Prince  Ch'ing's  son's  wife,  a  lady  who  had  married  into 
the  "order,"  but  is  a  widow,  and  the  little  Chinese  Court 
interpreter;  these  were  our  "honorable  Chinese  guests." 
There  were  eleven  of  them.  I  wanted  this  tiffin  to  be 
the  very  best  that  I  could  make  it  and  the  house  to  look 
its  best.  Our  servants  one  and  all  entered  into  the  spirit 
of  the  occasion.  I  told  Wang  that  I  wanted  flowers, 
flowers,  flowers  everywhere.  The  little  potted  trees 
filled  full  of  red  and  white  buds  and  blossoms  came  into 
the  compound  in  processions.  We  placed  some  in  cool, 
dark  rooms  and  some  in  the  warm  sunshine.  When 
needed,  they  were  aglow  with  living  smiles  in  abundance, 
to  welcome  the  Princesses  who  love  them.  They  are 
all  potted  in  decorated  porcelain  jardinieres,  and  so  were 
the  large  palms  that  were  placed  here  and  there  through 
the  rooms.     Some  of  the  flowers  were  banked,  while 


226  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

others  stood  alone  singing  their  praises.  No  one  can 
appreciate  these  dwarf  flower-trees  without  seeing  them. 
You  really  want  to  talk  to  them.  The  patient,  gentle 
Chinese  thought  makes  them  do  just  what  they  desire 
them  to  do.  The  Chinese  change  them  from  one  pot  to 
another  when  in  bud  or  in  blossom  and  the  plants  do  not 
bow  their  heads  or  look  hurt,  but  keep  their  beauty  and 
smile  right  on. 

We  hung  on  the  wall  the  banner  that  the  Empress 
Dowager  painted  and  gave  to  me.  We  also  hung  fine 
Chinese  embroideries  showing  that  we  appreciated  their 
beautiful,  choice  work.  The  rooms  were  very  pretty 
when  ready  for  the  Imperial  ladies.  The  large  dining- 
room  had  its  long  table  stretched  to  its  utmost.  Flowers 
arranged  low  reached  its  entire  length.  The  decora- 
tions were  in  dark  pink  and  green.  We  had  red  menu 
cards,  as  red  is  the  Princesses'  color.  The  plate  cards 
were  in  red  Chinese  characters.  I  invited  all  the  ladies 
in  the  American  Legation  and  army  post  to  assist  at  this 
tiffin,  and  one  lady  from  each  American  mission  to  assist 
as  interpreters  and  otherwise.  They  entered  most  en- 
thusiastically into  the  spirit  of  entertaining  these  Court 
ladies,  the  highest  in  China  with  the  exception  of  Their 
Majesties.  There  were  eleven  Chinese  and  eleven  Ameri- 
cans present.  The  Americans  came  early  and  had  their 
parts  assigned.  Each  knew  how  to  receive  the  Chinese 
ladies  and  how  to  go  to  the  table;  each  had  her  number 
and  knew  just  where  to  fall  in  line.  Promptly  at  half- 
past  twelve  o'clock  the  procession  entered  the  American 
Compound.  The  yellow  Imperial  chair,  with  gold  knob, 
came  first  with  the  Imperial  Princess,  then  followed  the 
red  chairs  bearing  the  other  Princesses,  then  green  chairs 


TOASTS  TO   CHINA'S   RULERS      227 

with  others  of  lesser  rank.  The  third  daughter  of  Prince 
Ch'ing  was  in  a  red  Princess'  cart  and  the  "little  inter- 
preter" was  in  an  official  cart.  What  a  sight!  The 
compound  was  full.  The  yellow  chair  came  to  the 
door  and  I  stepped  out  to  receive  the  Imperial  Princess, 
whom  I  had  seen  twice  before.  I  took  her  hand 
and  we  walked  into  the  house.  The  others  followed 
according  to  rank.  Each  Princess  had  with  her  eight 
eunuchs  and  there  were  several  minor  officials  in  attend- 
ance. Aside  from  the  officials  and  eunuchs,  there  were 
nine  bearers  to  each  chair. 

My  missionary  assistants  were  most  proficient,  and  ere 
long  had  indicated  to  each  American  the  Princess  whom 
she  was  to  escort  to  the  table.  We  had  tea,  after  which 
I  took  the  hand  of  the  Imperial  Princess  and  led  the  way 
to  the  dining-room,  the  others  falling  at  once  into  line. 
When  in  our  places  at  table  and  while  standing,  I  said, 
"Let  us  lift  our  glasses  filled  to  the  brim  with  the  best  of 
good  wishes  for  the  health  and  happiness  of  the  Emperor, 
the  Empress  Dowager,  and  Empress  of  China  and  to  the 
prosperity  of  their  people.  May  China  and  America  con- 
tinue in  their  friendly  relations!"  Mrs.  Gattrel  at  once 
interpreted  my  words.  Then  the  Imperial  Princess 
without  hesitation  said,  "I  bring  the  greetings  of  the 
Empress  Dowager  herself  to  this  company,  and  she 
hopes  that  the  pleasant  relations  that  now  exist  between 
America  and  China  will  always  continue  as  they  now  are. ' ' 

We  were  seated.  The  little  Chinese  interpreter  did 
not  seat  herself  with  the  others,  but  stood  behind  the 
Imperial  Princess'  chair  during  the  toasts.  Then,  cour- 
tesying  and  bowing  low  to  her,  she  passed  to  each  Chinese 
lady  in  the  same  manner.     All  recognized  her,  and  she 


228  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

then  was  seated.  As  she  did  not  rank  with  these  ladies, 
she  asked  permission  to  sit  with  them.  The  Chinese 
are  taught  etiquette  from  their  earliest  childhood.  Their 
grace  of  manner,  gentleness,  politeness,  and  respect  are 
most  beautiful  and  attractive. 

The  Chinese  ladies,  without  apparently  doing  so, 
watched  every  movement  and  used  fork,  knife,  or  spoon 
as  I  used  them.  They  surprised  us  with  the  ease  with 
which  they  handled  knives  and  forks  for  the  first  time 
in  their  lives.  We  had  five  interpreters  at  the  table, 
so  our  conversation  did  not  lag.  We  arose  and  left  the 
table  as  we  came  to  it.  Eunuchs  were  standing  about 
and  many  were  in  the  drawing-room  ready  at  all  times 
to  serve  the  ladies.  We  served  tea,  played  duets  on  the 
piano,  sang,  and  looked  at  pictures.  I  had  two  baby 
pictures,  and  the  ladies  looked  lovingly  upon  them  and 
asked  if  I  had  more.  I  wish  that  you  would  get  little 
fancy  pictures  of  babies  and  children  and  send  them. 
We  talked,  drank  more  tea,  and  then  came  the  good-byes. 
I  escorted  the  Imperial  Princess  to  her  chair,  sent  a  happy 
message  to  the  Empress  Dowager,  and  recognized  the 
others  as  they  passed.  And  so  the  grand  procession 
passed  from  under  the  American  flag  and  into  the  streets 
of  the  Dragon  flag.  Chinese  soldiers  were  stationed 
about  the  gate  and  to  the  east.  Many  hundreds  of  sol- 
diers, with  heads  bowed,  were  standing  along  the  route 
to  the  ladies'  homes,  and  all  Chinese  were  kept  from  the 
streets  through  which  the  procession  passed,  but  thou- 
sands were  standing  elsewhere  enjoying  the  sight. 

Some  of  these  first  ladies  of  China  had  never  seen 
foreign  ladies  before;  the  others  had  seen  them  only  at 
audiences    given    by    the    Empress    Dowager.     These 


THE  MANCHU   PRINCESSES        229 

Princesses  brought  four  hundred  and  eighty-one  servants 
with  them  including  the  sixty  soldiers  at  the  gate.  The 
higher  the  person  in  rank,  the  more  servants  he  brings. 

Your  father  gave  a  dinner  the  other  night  to  Prince 
Ch'ing  and  the  other  highest  officials  of  the  Court.  They 
brought  two  hundred  and  thirty-two  servants.  This 
was  the  first  large  dinner  given  in  Peking  by  a  foreign 
Minister,  or  any  foreigner,  to  the  highest  officials.  They 
were  a  happy,  dignified  body. 

After  the  wonderful  return  of  the  Court  in  peace,  the 
Empress  Dowager  opened  the  doors  of  the  Palace,  invited 
us  in,  and  we  accepted  the  invitation.  Why  should  we  not 
return  the  compliment  ?  When  this  tiffin  was  over  —  and 
it  was  pronounced  a  complete  success  —  I  was  truly  grate- 
ful. If  the  Empress  Dowager  and  the  husbands  had  not 
consented,  the  ladies  could  not  have  come  to  my  home. 
Their  acceptance  was  a  wonderful  departure  from  old  cus- 
toms. These  ladies  are  all  Manchus.  They  wear  their 
hair  extended  at  the  sides  with  rich,  elaborate  hair  decora- 
tions. Their  hair  is  black,  heavy,  long,  and  combed  with 
greatest  accuracy.  Their  faces  are  painted  white  and  pink, 
with  a  red  spot  on  the  lower  lip.  They  wore  many  jewels 
and  gold  jewelled  finger  shields  for  the  protection  of  their 
long  nails.  Their  gowns  were  most  exquisite  in  texture, 
embroidery,  and  coloring.  These  ladies  formed  a  beauti- 
ful picture.  I  cannot  give  it  to  you  as  I  saw  it  there  and 
shall  always  see  it.  Photographs  of  these  Princesses  in 
black  and  white  would  not  fairly  represent  them.  I  am  a 
great  admirer  of  the  Chinese  costumes  both  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen. 

After  the  ladies  had  gone,  Wang  came  to  us  all  smiles 
and  said,  "Might  stay  hundred  year,  never  see  like  this. 


230  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Servants  come  from  all  Legations  to  see  who  come.  The 
front  gate  and  street  blocked  against  Chinese.  They 
all  come  back  way.  They  say  to  me,  'You  see  ladies? 
You  wait  on  them?'"  He  laughed  and  said,  "They 
think  very  great;  all  eunuchs  serve  big  ladies.  No  like 
this  ever  before."  I  had  five  house-boys  in  uniform 
serving,  and  they  looked  well  and  did  well.  They  were 
delighted  over  their  unheard-of  privilege  in  seeing  these 
ladies. 

My  dear  girl,  I  bow  my  head  low  in  most  earnest  prayer 
that  love  and  love's  wisdom  may  be  revealed  to  me  in  all 
my  intercourse  with  the  Chinese,  as  well  as  with  the  other 
nationalities,  and  with  my  own  dear  people. 


[To  My  Laura] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
March  25,  IQ02. 
OUR  people  are  insane  about  coming  to  Peking,  yes, 
insane  to  get  to  Peking  and  see.  They  reason  like  this: 
The  American  Legation  is  there;  the  American  army  is 
there;  it  is  safe  to  go,  and  we  shall  be  protected.  Many 
come  to  your  father  with  letters  and  some  without. 
Public  accommodations  are  literally  nothing  for  taking 
care  of  visitors.  In  this  country  women,  travelling  unpro- 
tected or  without  an  escort,  are  considered  the  lowest  of 
the  low.  If  people  travel,  it  is  wise  to  comply  with  the 
customs  of  propriety.  To  illustrate  this  point:  Before 
my  return,  when  your  father  was  here  alone,  Wang  came 
to  him  one  night  saying,  "Mr.  Minister,  lady  at  door 
wishes  to  see  you."  Mr.  Conger  replied,  "Invite  her  in, 
and  I  will  see  her." 


AN   UNESCORTED   VISITOR         231 

"What  can  I  do  for  you?"  was  his  greeting.  She 
was  an  American,  and  had  come  from  the  train,  bag 
in  hand.     How  did  she  get  here  ?    She  introduced  herself 

as  Mrs. and  said,  "My  father  and  you  were  young 

men  friends.  I  often  hear  him  speak  of  you.  I  wished 
to  visit  Peking,  but  my  friends  would  not  come  farther 
than  Japan.  Knowing  that  you  knew  my  father,  I 
came  without  them." 

Mr.  Conger  asked  her  for  her  father's  card  or  a  letter 
from  him.  She  had  none!  He  kindly  explained  the 
situation,  and  rebuked  her  for  coming  to  a  strange  land 
unprotected  and  without  credentials  of  any  kind.  He 
told  her  that  he  was  alone  and  could  not  take  her  into  his 
home,  but  that  he  would  send  his  boy  Wang  with  her  to 
the  best  inn  for  the  night.  Wang  returned  and  said, 
"Very  bad!  No  proper  place  for  lady!"  Your  father 
meditated.  "This  woman  may  be  all  right  —  she  looks 
it.  What  if  my  daughter  was  in  a  strange  land  unpro- 
tected?" The  battle  was  fought.  He  went  to  Mrs. 
Bainbridge,  the  Secretary's  wife  in  the  Legation,  and  pre- 
sented the  case,  asking  if  she  could  take  this  woman  for 
the  night.  A  bed  was  made  on  the  sofa.  Wang  went 
for  the  woman;  she  returned  with  him  and  was  saved. 
Later  it  was  proved  that  her  statements  were  true.  This 
is  only  one  of  the  demands  of  attention  in  this  line.  Your 
father's  good  judgment  guides  him  through  the  little 
waters  as  well  as  the  greater  ones. 

After  our  tiffin  to  the  Princesses,  they  sent  an  invi- 
tation to  the  same  eleven  Americans  and  to  Mrs.  Uchida, 
the  Japanese  Minister's  wife,  to  tiffin  with  them.  We 
made  arrangements  for  all  to  go  together  and  went  in 
chairs,  carts,  and  on  ponies.     There  were  six  chairs  with 


23i  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

eight  bearers  each,  seven  carts  with  their  escorts,  and 
each  lady  had  two  or  three  outriders  and  two  or  three 
amahs.  We  had  nearly  one  hundred  servants,  but  we 
were  obliged  to  have  them  in  order  to  conform  to  Chinese 
custom.  The  Princesses  had  four  hundred  and  eighty-one 
servants  when  they  came  to  our  tiffin.  Well,  we  got  there ! 
The  Princesses  met  us  in  the  court  and  welcomed  us 
most  graciously.  We  have  met  these  ladies  now  four 
times  and  feel  quite  well  acquainted.  Each  took  one  of 
us  by  the  hand,  escorted  us  into  the  house,  and  tea  was 
served.  We  had  not  been  there  long  before  two  eunuchs 
entered,  each  with  a  pretty  new  basket  with  red  satin 
pad  upon  which  was  a  beautiful  little  black  dog.  Around 
the  neck  of  each  was  a  rich  collar  with  gold  bells,  tassels, 
and  other  ornaments  in  most  fanciful  arrangement; 
there  was  also,  for  each  dog,  a  gold-mounted  harness  with 
a  long  silk  cord  and  gold  hook.  One  little  dog  was 
placed  in  my  lap  and  the  other  in  Mrs.  Uchida's  and  we 
were  told  that  the  Empress  Dowager  had  sent  them  to  us. 
I  have  been  wanting  one  of  these  dogs  ever  since  my 
return,  and  to  think  of  its  coming  in  this  way!  I  was 
delighted.  He  is  a  bright  little  fellow,  full  of  life,  not  at 
all  afraid,  and  he  now  rules  the  household. 

I  had  not  been  long  rejoicing  over  my  dog  when  I  was 
asked  to  see  the  feast  that  the  Empress  Dowager  had  sent 
to  me.  I  stepped  forward,  admired,  and  expressed  my 
appreciation.  There  were  six  decorated  yellow  boxes 
filled  with  Chinese  candies,  candied  fruit,  and  other 
Chinese  sweets.  They  looked  beautiful;  when  I  reached 
home  I  found  them  awaiting  me.  After  mine  were  taken 
away  more  were  brought  for  Mrs.  Uchida.  Tea  was 
again    served,    then    we    were    invited    to    the    dining- 


NEW  CUSTOMS  FOR  OLD  133 

room.  Each  Chinese  lady  escorted  a  foreign  lady. 
How  I  wish  you  could  see  these  living  pictures!  Be- 
fore we  were  seated,  the  Imperial  Princess  lifted  her  glass 
of  wine  and  read  a  toast  to  us.  Those  of  our  party  most 
conversant  with  Chinese  said  that  the  characters  used 
were  in  the  best  style  of  Mandarin.  A  young  Chinese 
girl  translated  it  into  English  and  I  replied  for  the  foreign 
ladies.  We  were  seated,  and  good  cheer,  lively  conversa- 
tion, the  Princesses  in  their  rich  clothing,  their  dainty 
ways  and  graces,  made  the  day  glow  with  enjoyable 
beauty.  I  am  truly  grateful  to  have  this  little  knowledge 
of  the  inner  lives  of  these  strange  yet  attractive  people. 
It  is  best  to  pause  before  we  condemn  people  of  whom 
we  know  little.  We  visited  in  a  friendly  way  until  nearly 
three  o'clock,  then  we  took  our  departure.  Each  Chinese 
lady  had  learned  to  say  "Good-bye,"  and  laughingly, 
distinctly  uttered  the  words. 

We  returned  home  feeling  better  for  having  visited 
with  the  Imperial  Princess  and  the  other  Princesses  of  the 
Chinese  Court.  You  remember  who  told  me  to  nourish 
every  little  tendril  of  kindness  that  it  might  grow  strong. 

Your  father  and  I  often  take  our  rides  together  over 
the  places  so  familiar  to  you  and  Mary.  But  these  places 
seem  to  be  losing  their  old  customs  and  putting  on  new 
ones.  Where  are  the  five  thousand  camels  and  their 
masters  which  were  bringing  coal  into  Peking  before  the 
troubles  of  1900?  In  our  rides  these  days  we  never  see 
them.  The  men  and  animals  are  gone.  It  takes  manage- 
ment to  get  our  supply  of  coal  now.  Fuel  is  scarce  and 
expensive,  and  so  is  everything.  We  miss  our  dear  girls 
at  every  turn,  but  the  joys  in  their  wedded  lives  cancel 
all  our  selfish  regrets. 


234  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Peking,  May  g,  1902. 
Dear  Mrs.  Conger: 

A  LETTER  has  come  from  Mrs. asking  me  to 

answer  some  questions  in  regard  to  your  attitude  toward 
the  Empress  Dowager.  I  enclose  the  part  of  her  letter 
in  which  she  asks  these  questions.  Will  you  please  tell 
me  just  how  you  would  like  to  have  them  answered  ?  Or 
perhaps  you  prefer  to  answer  them  yourself.  I  feel  that 
it  is  necessary  to  give  Mrs. as  correct  an  idea  as  pos- 
sible of  the  whole  affair  as  she  reaches  a  great  number  of 
our  thinking  women  through  her  paper.  She  had,  unfor- 
tunately, heard  only  the  newspaper  criticisms  before  she 
came  to  Peking,  but  she  seemed  very  glad  to  get  all  the 
light  that  she  could,  and  the  broader,  truer  view.  I  think 
it  will  be  necessary  to  mail  a  letter  to  her  to-morrow,  if  it 
reaches  her  before  she  leaves  Korea.  A  boat  leaves  on 
Monday  and  not  another  for  two  weeks. 

If  I  did  not  think  that  this  would  do  a  great  deal  of 
good,  I  should  be  sorry  to  add  to  your  many  duties. 

Most  sincerely, 

Maud  Mackey. 

The  part  of  the  letter  enclosed  and  referred  to  above 
is  as  follows: 

"Send  me  a  note  to  Seoul,  Korea,  before  end  of  May. 
I  may  use  it  in  print.  Mrs.  Conger's  party:  (a)  Was  it  a 
luncheon?  (b)  What  is  the  foundation  for  newspaper 
reports  that  Dowager  wept  on  neck  of  Mrs.  Conger? 
(c)  Can  you  get  for  me  copy  of  Mrs.  Conger's  speech  on 
that  occasion?  (d)  and  substance  of  what  Empress 
said  ?  (e)  Has  there  been  an  interchange  of  social  cour- 
tesies since  party  No.  3,  when   Imperial  Princesses  re- 


RESUME  OF  MANY   MATTERS      235 

ceived?  (f)  Was  hers  a  luncheon,  or  reception,  or  what? 
I  am  sorry  that  I  was  not  more  awake  on  this  subject  when 
in  Peking,  so  as  to  get  satisfactory  data  in  case  it  seems 
best  to  send  a  brief  article  home.  I  find  myself  half 
inclined  to  write  in  advocacy  of  Mrs.  Conger's  cause, 
though  when  I  first  heard  of  it,  I  was  quite  of  another 
opinion." 


American  Legation,  Peking, 
May  10,  1902. 
Dear  Dr.  Mackey: 

IN  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  ninth  I  will  say,  there 
is  so  much  connected  with  what  has  passed  and  with  the 
steps  that  led  to  the  events  mentioned  that  a  statement 
of  a  few  facts  will  signify  but  little.  For  the  sake  of  the 
reading  public,  I  often  regret  the  remarks  and  criticisms 
of  the  press,  because  they  are  many  times  misleading.  If 
the  opportunity  had  been  given  me,  I  should  have  been 
pleased  to  talk  with  your  friend  about  the  different  phases 
of  Chinese  character  with  which  I  have  come  in  contact. 
I  am  willing  to  answer  your  friend's  questions,  as  I  do  not 
see  that  they  could  do  any  harm  and,  on  the  other  hand, 
but  little  good,  as  they  signify  so  little. 

(a)  I  gave  a  "tiffin"  (mid-day  meal)  to  eleven  Court 
Princesses.  It  was  the  first  time  that  any  of  these  ladies 
had  ever  entered  a  foreign  home,  and  several  of  them  had 
never  before  seen  a  foreign  lady.  It  was  an  historic  day 
and  the  details  are  intensely  interesting. 

(b)  The  Empress  Dowager  did  not  weep  upon  my 
neck.  After  a  dignified  ceremony  in  the  throne  building, 
we  were  invited  to  a  reception  room.    Her  Majesty  asked 


236  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

for  Mrs.  Conger  and  I  was  escorted  to  her.  She  took 
both  my  hands  in  hers  and  said  with  emotion  that  she 
deeply  regretted  the  terrible  troubles  and  our  great  suffer- 
ing during  the  siege.  She  said  that  it  was  a  great  mistake, 
and  that  it  should  never  happen  again.  She  declared  that 
the  foreigners  should  henceforth  be  protected  in  China. 
There  was  nothing  said  by  either  of  us  about  forgiving 
and  forgetting.  Her  Majesty's  manner  in  the  banquet 
hall  was  dignified  and  earnest  and  our  conversation  was 
full  of  interest  and  instruction  for  me.  I  was  seated  for 
more  than  an  hour  with  Her  Majesty  and  was  astonished 
and  pleased  with  her  varied  conversation  and  courtesies. 
The  details  in  a  picture  enhance  its  beauty  and  value, 
so  did  the  details  add  to  this  event.  I  cannot  write  them 
—  they  are  better  told. 

(c)  Enclosed  please  find  a  copy  of  what  I  said  at  the 
first  Imperial  audience  given  by  the  Empress  Dowager 
to  the  Diplomatic  ladies  after  the  Court's  return,  (d)  also 
Her  Majesty's  reply,  (e)  There  have  been  interchanges 
of  social  courtesies  since  the  Imperial  Princess  received, 
(f)  It  was  an  elaborate  luncheon  and  the  Imperial  Prin- 
cess was  assisted  by  many  Princesses. 

I  have  been  living  among  these  Chinese  people  for 
nearly  four  years  and  have  tried  to  learn  about  them  and 
from  them.  While  there  is  much  that  I  find  undesirable, 
I  also  find  in  their  characters  much  to  admire.  That  I 
might  learn  of  the  home  life  of  the  better  classes,  I  have 
patiently  and  carefully  watched  to  discover  and  improve 
opportunities  to  enter  every  door  that  opened  to  me. 

My  feelings  and  actions  toward  Her  Majesty  and  her 
people  I  have  reason  to  believe  are  well  taken.  I  would 
not  make  the  breach  wider  between  the  Chinese  and  the 


FOREIGNERS  AND   CHINA         237 

foreigners.  I  should  like  much  to  have  the  Chinese  see 
the  better  side  of  the  Christian  nations.  Would  that  we 
had  the  Christ-spirit  so  rooted  in  our  hearts  that  we  could 
forgive  and  forget!  Then,  we  should  lessen  heavy  bur- 
dens instead  of  increasing  them.  True,  the  past  records 
dark,  awful  days  in  China,  but  what  do  we  gain  by  hugging 
tightly  the  poisonous  thorns  of  revenge?  The  detailed 
story  of  the  foreigner  and  the  Chinese  is  a  long  one.  Can 
the  foreigner  "throw  the  first  stone"  ?  Surely  this  is  not 
a  one-sided  relationship.  All  the  nations  will  have  to 
repent,  forgive,  and  labor  patiently  if  they  would  become 
friends  with  China.  The  wonderful  Joint  Note  carried 
out  in  the  detailed  Protocol  gives  a  pledge  that  they  will 
be  friends.  It  is  hoped  that  China  and  all  the  nations 
will  prove  their  sincerity. 

I  trust  that  I  have  answered  these  questions  in  such  a 
way  as  to  serve  the  purpose  of  your  friend. 


[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
October  3,  igo2. 

I  KNOW  of  your  deep  interest  in  what  takes  place 
here  in  Peking,  hence  I  write  to  you  of  the  many  things 
that  come  to  us.  I  feel  assured  that  you  do  not  weary  of 
hearing  about  the  audiences  and  the  part  your  father  and 
mother  take  in  them.  All  have  the  same  regular  forms, 
yet  each  has  its  own  individuality. 

Our  last  audience  was  at  the  Summer  Palace,  which 
you  will  remember  is  twelve  miles  distant.  This  audience 
had  its  marked  departures,  and  of  these  I  am  going  to 
write  you.    We  all  started  in  our  sedan  chairs  with  the 


238  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

usual  escorts  and  the  usual  form.  The  roads  had  been 
levelled  and  spread  with  yellow  soil  for  the  recent  use  of 
the  Court.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  we  started  with 
our  long  procession  at  eight  o'clock.  Although  our 
cavalcade  of  chairs,  carts  of  coolies  as  relays,  mounted 
men,  and  hosts  of  escorts,  passed  through  streets  mas- 
sively lined  on  either  side  with  people,  everything  was 
quiet  and  scarcely  a  sound  was  heard.  "The  city  of  the 
blue  gown"  had  turned  out  its  common  people  in  their 
clean  clothes  and  bright  colors  to  see.  Each  seemed 
intent  on  what  he  saw.  To  me  there  is  a  fascination  in 
these  street  scenes,  and  they  furnish  me  many  topics  of 
thought  as  I  pass  on  alone  in  my  little  house,  shut  away 
from  their  touch.  I  look  through  my  curtained  windows 
and  see  it  all. 

After  leaving  the  city  gate  we  passed  through  a  beau- 
tiful avenue  of  large  trees  along  the  east  side  of  the  Im- 
perial Canal.  A  two-hours'  ride  in  our  chairs  brought 
us  to  an  Imperial  temple.  Here  we  were  received  by 
Chinese  officials  and  escorted  to  Her  Majesty's  furnished 
apartments  to  rest,  sip  tea,  and  partake  of  other  refresh- 
ments. We  remained  here  about  twenty  minutes  and 
then  were  conducted  to  the  Canal,  where  there  were  a 
steam  launch  and  seven  artistically  decorated  Imperial 
house-boats.  There  were  tables  lavishly  spread  with 
Chinese  food,  fruits,  wines,  and  sweets.  Tea  was  again 
served,  and  the  other  refreshments  were  passed.  The 
Dean  and  other  gentlemen  were  taken  by  the  officials  to 
a  boat  by  themselves.  The  Ministers'  wives  and  those 
highest  in  rank  were  asked  to  enter  Her  Majesty's  private 
boat.  This  boat  took  the  lead.  We  were  attentively 
served  and  everything  was  harmonious.     It  was  a  beauti- 


Camel-back  Bridge 
Marble  Bridge  antd  Pavilion  at  the  Summer  Palace 


THE  SUMMER   PALACE  239 

ful  sight  as  these  many  boats  with  their  brilliant  colorings, 
flags  and  streamers  waving,  passed  in  and  out  of  the  many 
turnings  of  the  watercourse.  There  were  thousands  of 
Chinese  following,  on  either  bank,  curious  to  see,  and  yet 
the  utmost  order  prevailed.  It  was  a  noiseless  procession. 
Mounted  soldiers  were  on  the  banks  attending  us  until 
we  passed  under  the  Court's  white  marble  "camel-back" 
bridge. 

Our  "fleet"  sailed  through  the  Water  Gate  under  this 
arched  bridge,  and  we  were  in  the  crystal  waters  of  the 
Summer  Palace  Lake.  How  beautiful!  We  passed  on 
and  on,  feasting  upon  the  fairy  scenes  of  dreamland.  It 
all  seems  unreal,  fanciful.  We  saw  the  island,  with  its 
high  rocks,  glistening  yellow  tiled  roofs,  grottoes,  marble 
terraces  with  their  white,  carved  marble  balustrades,  large 
bronze  statues,  and  gardens  with  flowering  shrubs  and 
spreading  trees.  We  passed  near  the  historic  seventeen- 
arched  white  marble  bridge,  which  reaches  from  the 
island  to  the  eastern  shore,  where  there  are  a  large  pavilion 
and  the  famous  bronze  cow.  Still  on  we  went,  taking  in 
the  varied  scenes  peculiar  to  China's  imperialism.  We 
approached  a  wonderful  shore.  The  midday  sun  was 
shining  upon  the  bright  colorings.  The  white  marble 
wall  with  its  carved  balustrades,  the  Chinese  officials  in 
their  Court  uniforms,  helpers  dressed  according  to  rank, 
and  hundreds  of  eunuchs,  all  combined  to  form  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  pictures  that  I  ever  beheld. 

I  will  not  repeat  in  this  letter  the  story  of  our  recep- 
tion at  the  throne,  of  the  feast,  and  of  the  walks.  I  will 
take  up  the  thread  where  the  Empress  Dowager,  the 
Emperor,  Empress,  Princesses,  and  foreign  ladies  entered 
the  Imperial  boats  and  sailed  over  to  the  island.    Her 


24o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Majesty  and  all  were  most  gracious  to  us.  When  we 
had  landed,  climbed  the  high  steps,  and  reached  the 
broad  veranda,  the  Empress  Dowager  stepped  to  the 
marble  balustrade  and  looking  upon  the  wonderful  scene 
stretched  out  before  her,  spoke  my  name.  I  went  to  her 
and  she  took  my  hand  in  both  of  hers.  Looking  at  the 
scenes  about  us  and  beyond  us,  she  said,  in  a  tender, 
thoughtful  way,  "Is  it  not  beautiful?"  I  never  saw 
anything  like  it;  it  was  beautiful!  It  was  a  brilliant 
scene.  The  clear  water  about  us;  the  fleet  of  Oriental 
boats,  with  Her  Majesty's  flags  and  streamers  flying; 
the  bluffy  shore  opposite,  bedecked  with  its  Imperial 
Oriental  architecture  and  colorings;  the  beautiful  flowers, 
and  the  gardens,  all  combined  their  extravagant  beauty 
to  gladden  the  eye  and  warm  the  heart.  As  a  whole  it 
was  wonderful;  in  its  detail,  still  more  wonderful. 

We  were  served  tea  and  refreshments,  then  we  took 
our  departure.  The  Empress  Dowager,  the  Emperor, 
the  Empress,  the  Princesses,  and  the  Court  attendants 
came  out  upon  the  high  terrace  and  watched  us  as  we 
left.  Their  colorings  are  so  dainty,  and  yet  often  so  bold 
in  their  harmony,  that  no  photograph  or  painting  can  do 
Chinese  costumes  or  Chinese  decorations  even  a  partial 
justice. 

We  passed  on  and  on  in  the  Imperial  boats,  under 
the  camel-back  bridge,  and  out  of  the  beautiful  lake  of 
the  Summer  Palace,  taking  with  us  the  remembrance  of 
a  happy  day.  Would  that  our  dear  Laura  could  have 
been  with  us! 


A   DISTINGUISHED  SCHOLAR       241 

[To  Miss  Pethick] 

Peking,  November  13,  1Q02. 

TO  your  letter  of  inquiry  about  your  brother,  whom 
we  hold  in  the  highest  esteem,  respect,  and  admiration,  I 
respond  with  sad  pleasure.  He  was  among  the  first 
Americans  in  Peking  who  won  their  way  into  our  hearts. 
His  strong  mind  was  stored  with  most  valuable  infor- 
mation, which  was  dressed  in  the  graces  of  culture  and 
modest  refinement.  We  loved  your  brother,  and  so  did 
all  of  his  many  friends.  While  he  was  a  true  friend 
to  the  people  of  his  own  country  and  to  the  Chinese, 
he  was  also  a  true  friend  to  every  nation  here  repre- 
sented. Each  and  all  turned  to  him,  and  he  re- 
sponded, but  never  in  disloyalty.  He  knew  the  Chinese 
and  their  customs.  He  was  Li  Hung  Chang's  secretary 
for  many  years;  he  knew  their  language,  and  dug  deep 
into  Chinese  knotty  traditions. 

I  would  sometimes  say,  "Oh,  Mr.  Pethick,  that  looks 
very  bad!"  just  to  hear  him  reprove  in  his  gentle  way, 
"You  do  not  quite  understand."  Then  he  would  quietly 
explain  to  me,  and  it  was  always  a  joy  to  listen.  I  often 
took  a  piece  of  embroidery,  cloisonne,  brass,  or  porce- 
lain, and  asked  him  to  read  what  it  said.  Every  leaf, 
flower,  fruit,  animal,  insect,  in  fact  everything  has  its 
hidden  meaning  in  Chinese  art.  He  had  studied  these 
meanings,  and  willingly  gave  them  to  others,  for  they 
were  much  to  him  in  their  unbroken  story.  Through 
him  I  learned  much  of  the  Chinese  character,  and  through 
his  illuminated  thoughts  I  could  see  much  to  admire. 
His  disappointment  in  the  Chinese,  and  his  active  work 
during  the  late  troubles,   seemed   to  wear  upon  him. 


242  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

He  had  lived  a  quiet  physical  life  for  years,  and  when 
the  siege  was  upon  us  he  did  not  spare  himself  in  any 
way.  His  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  language  and  peo- 
ple called  him  on  duty  beyond  the  strength  of  a  stronger 
man.  We  did  not  realize  this,  as  all  were  doing  their 
best.  Many  fell  during  the  siege,  and  many  fell  later. 
He  was  never  well  after  those  awful  days.  He  did  not 
seem  to  rally  permanently,  and  each  relapse  added  to 
his  sufferings.  His  Chinese  servants  had  been  with  him 
long,  and  were  the  kindest  of  the  kind.  During  the  last 
weeks  of  his  illness  army  nurses  were  with  him,  admin- 
istering to  his  needs.  He  did  not  seem  to  be  a  constant 
sufferer;  the  last  of  his  earthly  hours  were  spent  in  quiet. 
He  was  laid  in  a  foreign  casket  and  brought  to  our 
home  in  the  American  Legation,  where  services  were 
held.  The  offerings  of  flowers  by  friends  were  beau- 
tiful and  bountiful.  The  rooms  were  filled  with  his  friends, 
and  loving  hands  tenderly  placed  him  in  his  last  earthly 
bed,  covered  him  over,  and  left  behind  them  a  mound  of 
rich,  beautiful  flowers. 


(To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
January  o,  JO03. 
I  AM  going  to  tell  you  a  little  about  our  visit  from 
General  and  Mrs.  Miles,  and  their  party  of  nine.  Mr. 
Coolidge,  Captain  Brewster,  and  ourselves  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  entertaining  them.  They  were  so  enthusiastic  over 
what  they  saw  and  what  was  done,  that  it  was  a  growing 
pleasure  to  keep  doing  for  them.  Your  father  and  I 
gave  three  dinners,  of  twenty-two  plates  each,  in  their 


OFFICIALS  MEET  GEN.   MILES     243 

honor.  One  was  for  General  Miles  to  meet  the  Chinese 
high  officials.  This  dinner  was  at  five  o'clock,  as  the 
Chinese  do  not  like  our  late  banquets.  All  the  highest 
officials  were  here.  We  ladies,  by  invitation,  went  over 
to  Mr.  Coolidge's  for  five  o'clock  tea.  He  had  to  be  at 
the  dinner,  but  he  invited  others  to  be  with  us,  and  asked 
me  to  preside  at  the  tea  table.  Mr.  Coolidge's  home  is 
beautifully  repaired,  arranged,  and  furnished.  He  has 
excellent  taste,  and  his  wealth  serves  him  in  a  quiet  way. 
At  this  tea  party  the  house  was  lighted  in  an  artistic 
manner.  Mr.  Coolidge  works  for  the  interest  of  the 
Legation;   he  is  an  American  through  and  through. 

When  the  guests  were  about  to  leave  the  dining-room, 
Mr.  Coolidge  came  over  with  the  message  from  your 
father  that  if  we  would  like  to  meet  the  Chinese  officials, 
we  might  be  in  the  drawing-room  when  they  returned 
from  the  dinner.  There  was  no  doubt  in  our  minds, 
I  assure  you.  We  were  in  time  to  hear  the  toasts,  which 
we  greatly  enjoyed.  Both  Chinese  and  Americans  were 
at  their  best,  and  strong  thoughts,  as  well  as  compli- 
mentary ones,  were  given  in  a  dignified,  pleasing  manner. 
Prince  Ch'ing,  General  Miles,  and  your  father  did  the 
toast-making;  your  father,  of  course,  speaking  first. 
We  were  greatly  pleased  to  hear  through  the  open  doors 
these  pointed  speeches  and  sparkling  jokes,  that  all 
seemed  to  enjoy  together.  We  received  the  gentlemen 
in  the  drawing-room,  when  they  entered;  but  we  re- 
mained only  a  short  time  and  then  withdrew.  At  eight- 
fifteen  all  had  taken  their  departure,  and  we  ladies,  in 
company  with  General  Miles,  Colonel  Maus,  and  your 
father,  sat  down  to  our  dinner.  The  table  had  been 
prepared  anew  for  us  in  its  proper  size.     Every  one  seemed 


244  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

surprised  over  the  work  that  was  going  on  while  there 
was  so  much  to  be  done.  There  was  no  confusion  what- 
ever. Our  floral  decorations  were  truly  fine,  on  the 
table  and  in  our  rooms.  The  chrysanthemums  were 
in  their  glory.  The  colors  of  flowers  were  changed  at 
each  dinner,  as  were  also  the  table  embroideries.  The 
first  dinner  was  in  white  and  green;  the  second  in  pink 
and  green;  the  third  in  yellow  and  green.  How  I  did 
wish  that  Fred  ai.d  Laura  could  step  in  with  their  en- 
couraging approval! 

Your  father  asked  for  two  private  audiences  at 
Court,  one  for  General  Miles  and  one  for  Mrs.  Miles. 
Both  were  granted.  The  gentlemen  were  received  on 
the  twenty-seventh.  We  were  proud  of  our  American 
men,  as  they  came  together  and  started  for  the  Palace. 
The  ladies'  audience  followed  on  the  twenty-eighth. 
There  were  ten  in  our  party,  including  my  private  in- 
terpreter, whom  I  had  permission  from  Her  Majesty 
to  bring.  Mounted  Chinese  officials  were  sent  as  our 
escorts.  At  ten-thirty,  the  escorts  taking  the  lead,  ten 
chairs  started  from  our  Legation,  with  our  private 
mounted  attendants.  In  this  private  audience  every 
attention  was  shown  us  by  Chinese  officials  that  the 
public  audiences  of  the  nations  receive.  After  we  were 
presented  by  your  father  to  Their  Majesties  on  the  throne, 
we  followed  them  into  a  reception  room  where  tea  was 
served  and  we  were  permitted  to  visit  informally  with 
the  Empress  Dowager  and  to  meet  the  Empress  and  the 
Princesses.  Her  Majesty  talks  freely,  but  the  Emperor 
says  nothing.  We  were  next  escorted  by  Princesses 
and  eunuchs  to  Her  Majesty's  private  reception  rooms, 
which  are  large  and  richly  furnished  with  Chinese 
treasures.    Their  Majesties  occupy  that  part  of  the  For- 


AUDIENCES  TO  FOREIGNERS      245 

bidden  City  to  the  east  that  the  foreigners  never  entered 
while  they  had  it  in  charge.  Here  we  had  a  visit  with 
the  young  Empress,  the  Princesses,  and  the  bride  of  the 
Emperor's  brother.  This  young  lady  is  the  daughter  of 
Jung  Lu.  After  again  drinking  tea  we  were  escorted 
through  another  court  to  a  feast  room.  Princesses  and 
guests  were  seated  at  tables.  I  sat  at  the  Imperial 
Princess'  right,  Mrs.  Miles  at  my  right.  Shortly  the 
Emperor  and  the  Empress  Dowager  entered;  all  arose. 
Imperial  chairs  were  brought  for  Their  Majesties,  and 
all  were  asked  to  be  seated.  We  sat  over  an  hour  and  had 
a  feast  of  conversation.  The  Empress  Dowager  spoke 
very  highly  of  your  father,  of  our  Government,  of  General 
Chaffee,  and  of  our  soldiers.  Her  knowledge  of  what 
had  been  done  surprised  me.  After  talking  with  her 
head  eunuch  she  said,  "I  am  having  prepared  a  scroll  for 
each  lady  present  and  I  will  write  upon  them  the  char- 
acters 'Long  Life'  and  'Happiness.'"  We  then  re- 
turned to  her  reception  room,  where  she  stood  by  a  table 
and  wrote  these  characters  with  a  master  hand.  When 
she  had  finished  her  eighteenth  scroll  she  sat  down  in  a 
yellow  chair  and  other  chairs  were  brought  for  her  guests. 
Tea  was  then  served.  After  a  few  more  words  we  took 
our  departure,  feeling  satisfied  that  we  had  spent  a  profit- 
able and  happy  day.  This  private  audience  was  the 
first  ever  granted  foreign  ladies.  Do  you  note  the  de- 
parture from  old-time  customs  and  the  opening,  little 
by  little,  of  the  locked  doors?  I  detect  and  appreciate 
it  as  Mrs.  Miles  or  any  newcomer  cannot.  Her  Majesty 
sent  to  Mrs.  Miles  and  Mrs.  Maus  other  gifts,  and  a 
"feast"  for  their  long  journey.  Above  all  else  we  appre- 
ciated and  prized  our  scrolls,  written  by  Her  Majesty's 
own  hand  and  placed  in  ours. 


246  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

On  Tuesday  morning  General  Miles  and  his  party 
left  us  and  started  on  their  long  trip  through  Siberia. 

Thursday  was  New  Year's  Day.  We  received  as 
usual,  and  it  was  a  full,  full  day.  During  the  morning 
the  Legation  corps  of  Chinese  servants  paid  their  respects. 
Callers  began  to  come  early  after  tiffin,  and  continued 
late.  The  new  year,  with  its  many  duties,  has  begun 
in  earnest.  First  of  all  I  have  been  writing  letters  and 
letters,  as  I  am  acknowledging  our  Christmas  gifts. 
Laura's  yellow  pillow  graces  the  centre  of  the  largest 
sofa  in  the  drawing-room;  it  is  a  beauty  and  has 
received  many  compliments.  Your  father  and  mother 
have  read  their  books  together,  with  loving  thoughts 
of  their  two  dear  children.  The  rug-man  brought  two 
large  pine  trees  in  hand-painted  porcelain  pots.  The 
trees  were  elaborately  decorated  with  beautiful  silk, 
satin,  and  velvet  flowers  and  butterflies  of  different  kinds. 
They  were  beauties,  and  stood  ten  feet  high,  welcoming 
us  in  their  bright  colors.  I  knew  nothing  of  this  gift 
until  Christmas  morning.  This  was  his  expression  of 
gratitude  for  what  we  had  done  for  him  after  the  siege. 
Hidden  in  the  depths  of  gratitude  there  is  always  a 
treasure. 

[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  20,  1903. 
THIS  date  is  one  we  all  remember.  Only  think! 
Three  years  have  passed  since  the  awful  siege  days,  during 
which  great  national  and  personal  events  have  been  written 
on  memory's  pages.  What  wonderful  heart- joys  have 
come  to  you  and  to  us!    Surely,  sincere  gratitude  is  ours. 


ADMIRAL   EVANS  AT   AUDIENCE    247 

You  left  your  father's  home  in  1901  to  make  a  new  home 
with  another.  And  now,  in  1903,  you  bring  a  joyous 
promise  into  your  life  and  into  ours  —  a  little  daughter  and 
granddaughter!  The  cablegram,  "Girl,"  stirred  anew 
the  fountains  of  love.  Our  message,  "Love,  congratula- 
tions," flew  on  electric  wings  back  to  you.  We  welcome 
our  little  granddaughter  with  open  arms  and  full  hearts. 

Now,  turning  our  thoughts  to  Peking,  I  will  write 
some  of  our  late  experiences.  First  I  want  to  tell  you  of 
two  private  audiences  given  by  Their  Majesties. 
Admiral  Evans,  his  staff,  wife,  and  other  ladies,  came  to 
Peking  and  we  had  a  most  delightful  visit  with  them. 
Father  asked  for  two  Imperial  audiences,  one  for  gentle- 
men and  one  for  ladies.  His  request  was  granted,  and 
June  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  were  set  apart.  The  re- 
ception of  the  gentlemen  by  Their  Majesties  was  ceremo- 
nious; that  by  the  officials  was  most  cordial.  Both  the 
dignity  of  Their  Majesties  and  the  cordiality  of  the 
officials  met  with  the  sincere  appreciation  of  their  Ameri- 
can guests.  On  the  fifteenth  the  ladies  were  received, 
and  a  happier,  brighter  day  Her  Majesty  has  never  given 
to  us.  Crowning  the  Imperial  graces  was  the  womanly 
tenderness  that  bade  us  draw  near  to  her.  At  an  oppor- 
tune moment  Her  Majesty  congratulated  me  most  heart- 
ily upon  the  coming  of  my  little  granddaughter.  It  was 
through  Lady  Yii  that  the  Empress  Dowager  learned  of 
the  great  joy  that  had  come  to  us. 

For  many  months  I  had  been  indignant  over  the 
horrible,  unjust  caricatures  of  Her  Imperial  Majesty  in 
illustrated  papers,  and  with  a  growing  desire  that  the 
world  might  see  her  more  as  she  really  is,  I  had  conceived 
the  idea  of  asking  her  Majesty's  permission  to  speak  with 


248  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

her  upon  the  subject  of  having  her  portrait  painted.  I 
had  written  to  the  artist,  Miss  Carl,  and  found  that  she 
was  willing  to  cooperate  with  me.  The  day  of  the  au- 
dience seemed  to  be  the  golden  opportunity  for  me  to 
speak.  With  intense  love  for  womankind,  and  in  justice 
to  this  Imperial  woman,  I  presented  my  subject  without 
a  doubt  or  a  fear.  Her  Majesty  listened,  was  interested, 
and  with  a  woman's  heart  conversed  with  me.  As  the 
result  of  this  conversation,  the  Empress  Dowager  gave 
consent  to  allow  her  Imperial  portrait  to  be  painted  by  an 
American  lady  artist  for  the  St.  Louis  Exposition.  The 
work  is  to  begin  in  August.  Only  think  of  it!  That  this 
portrait  may  present  to  the  outside  world  even  a  little  of 
the  true  expression  and  character  of  this  misrepresented 
woman,  is  my  most  earnest  wish.  I  do  not,  my  dear  girl, 
forget  the  dark  days  of  the  siege,  the  sufferings,  the  blood- 
shed, the  sorrows;  but  I  would  not  have  this  darkness 
bury  in  oblivion  all  the  bright  rays  of  sunshine.  I  have 
most  earnestly  wished  that  our  home  people  could  see  Her 
Majesty  as  I  have  many  times  seen  her.  I  well  know 
that  these  departures  are  testing,  but  I  always  feel  that 
the  Empress  Dowager  can  meet  them  successfully.  Her 
intuitive  ability  to  perceive  and  conceive  is  not  easy  to 
surpass,  nor  even  equal,  by  man  or  woman. 

Laura  dear,  I  write  very  plainly  to  you  because  you 
will  understand  your  mother.  I  am  a  seeker  in  China, 
and  am  interested  in  Chinese  productions.  I  recognize 
their  beauty,  then  I  wish  to  know  something  of  the  people 
who  produced  them.  The  search  is  a  delightful  one, 
and  I  am  rewarded  with  more  than  "crumbs." 

The  number  of  Chinese  homes  receiving  us  is  increas- 
ing, and  many  hidden  things  are  revealed  to  us.    While 


ANCESTRAL  HALLS  249 

visiting  the  delightful  home  of  Duke  Jung,  and  being 
cordially  entertained  by  the  attractive  ladies,  we  were 
taken  into  and  through  the  ancestral  halls  of  this  noted 
family.  It  is  not  a  usual  thing  for  guests  to  be  invited  to 
enter  Chinese  ancestral  halls.  The  fact  that  we  were  in- 
vited to  enter  this  sacred  place  revealed  the  hostess'  desire 
to  interest  and  please  us.  We  were  led  through  artistic 
courts,  with  the  pleasure-giving  flowers,  lakes,  summer 
houses,  rustic  bridges,  rockeries,  and  gardens;  we  ascended 
a  covered  walk  with  balustrades  on  each  side.  This  entire 
passageway  was  most  artistically  painted  with  the  bright 
colors  that  the  Chinese  know  so  well  how  to  blend  for 
the  richest  effects.  At  the  end  of  the  walk  we  came  to  the 
veranda  which  leads  to  the  ancestral  halls. 

The  steward  of  the  palace  went  ahead  with  the  key. 
We  followed  with  the  ladies  of  the  household.  When 
the  great  doors  were  opened,  we  quietly  entered.  The 
ladies  bowed  low.  Directly  in  front  of  us  was  an  elabo- 
rately carved  turtle,  on  which  stood  a  facsimile  of  an  Im- 
perial palace.  It  was  about  five  feet  long  and  four  feet 
high,  covered  with  yellow  tiles,  such  as  are  seen  on  the 
Imperial  buildings.  The  decorations  of  lions'  heads  and 
rampant  dragons  were  such  as  we  had  so  often  seen  in  the 
Court  Palace.  The  marble  steps  leading  up  to  this 
miniature  building,  the  red  lacquered  pillars,  the  elabo- 
rate carving  on  doors  and  windows,  were  all  in  their  man- 
made  perfection. 

The  doors  of  this  miniature  palace  stood  open;  and 
inside,  facing  the  doors,  was  a  carved  throne  upholstered 
in  yellow  satin,  and  on  the  throne  stood  the  tablet  of  their 
great  ancestor,  The  Empress  of  Ch'ien  Lung.  We  were 
told  that  the  Emperors  of  China  being  the  sons  of  Heaven, 


250  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

none  of  their  posterity  were  worthy  to  worship  them  ex- 
cept their  successors  to  the  Throne;  hence  the  Emperor 
Ch'ien  Lung's  tablet  was  not  in  their  ancestral  halls. 
Besides  this  miniature  Imperial  palace  there  were  four 
green-tiled  and  purple-tiled  palaces,  indicating  ranks  in 
multiplied  details.  While  the  story  of  the  Imperial  Prince, 
and  the  "  iron-capped,"  or  hereditary,  Prince,  is  of 
marked  interest,  I  shall  not  tarry  here  to  tell  you  of  them. 
Down  through  the  generations  from  the  days  of  Ch'ien 
Lung  (i  736-1 796)  to  the  father  of  the  present  Duke  these 
tablets  have  been  preserved  and  worshipped.  In  each  of 
these  miniature  palaces  is  placed  the  tablet  of  the  father 
and  mother,  except  in  the  first  Imperial  palace,  which  held 
the  mother's  tablet  only.  Before  each  shrine  stood  an 
incense-burner,  cup  of  burning  oil,  candles,  and  the 
various  symbols  used  in  worship. 

On  the  floor  were  satin-covered  cushions,  on  which 
the  worshippers  knelt  when  offering  sacrifice.  The 
anniversary  of  birth,  death,  New  Year's  Day,  and 
other  days,  are  commemorated.  The  worship  consists 
of  the  offering  of  fruits  and  cakes  to  the  departed  spirit; 
the  burning  of  incense;  the  pouring  out  of  wine ;  the  nine 
prostrations,  when  the  worshipper  lifts  the  wine  cup  each 
time  to  the  level  of  the  forehead.  This  ceremony  finishes 
the  form  of  worship.  The  utmost  formality  is  observed 
by  worshippers.  The  men  put  on  with  great  care  all 
their  official  regalia  and  present  themselves  as  spotless 
and  adorned  as  though  they  were  kneeling  before  a  living 
emperor.  This  devotion  in  memory  of  their  ancestors, 
as  well  as  the  respect  and  love  shown  the  members  of  the 
living  families,  and  the  honor  shown  their  superiors  in  age 
and  rank,  is  one  of  China's  graces  and  redeeming  features. 


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LADIES  OF  HIGH   RANK  251 

These  halls  were  more  bewildering  to  me  than  any- 
thing that  I  had  yet  seen  in  China.  The  meaning  was  so 
securely  concealed  that  in  ignorance  I  mentally  cried  out, 
"What  does  it  all  mean?"  I  eagerly  accepted  the  infor- 
mation that  these  kind  friends  offered.  Only  think  of  it! 
We  stood  before  the  tablet  of  the  Empress  of  Ch'ien  Lung, 
and  a  long  line  of  the  Duke's  ancestors.  We  were  in 
wonderland,  with  guide-book  in  hand  that  we  could  not 
read,  and  these  unfamiliar  wonders  bore  unfamiliar  names. 
How  strange  they  all  were!  As  we  stood  there,  in  fancy 
flitted  that  wonderful  Ch'ien  Lung  reign  and  its  fine  pro- 
ductions that  have  borne  the  test  of  time,  and  that  to-day 
the  outside  world  acknowledges  of  great  value.  With 
hearts  warmed  with  gratitude  for  the  great  privilege  these 
Chinese  friends  had  so  kindly  given  us,  we  took  our  de- 
parture. Another  day's  picture,  with  its  strange  but  new 
colorings,  is  hung  in  my  mind's  gallery  for  me  to  study. 

In  the  past  six  months  many  more  of  the  Manchu  and 
Chinese  ladies  of  rank  have  been  added  to  our  list  of 
acquaintances.  The  circle  increases,  but  I  advance  with 
caution.  There  are  strange  new  events  coming  rapidly 
into  our  lives.  Even  the  wives  of  high  officials,  both 
Manchu  and  Chinese,  are  opening  their  doors  to  us,  and 
I  am  entertaining  them  in  return.  My  former  ideas  of 
Chinese  ladies  are  undergoing  a  great  change.  Mingling 
with  them  in  their  hospitable  homes  and  in  my  Legation 
home  removes  much  of  the  ignorant  prejudice  that  I 
held  against  them.  To-morrow  we  are  to  be  entertained 
at  the  palace  of  Princess  Shun,  the  sister  of  the  Empress 
and  niece  of  the  Empress  Dowager.  I  greatly  admire 
this  Princess.  As  strict  formalities  are  laid  aside,  and 
we  meet  and  talk  out  of  our  true  selves,  we  become  friends. 


252  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Your  father's  ever  willing,  ready,  and  efficient  counsel 
and  help  encourage  me  onward. 

Many  requests  come  to  me  for  privileges  and  oppor- 
tunities through  me  to  get  different  things  and  messages 
into  the  Palace  to  Their  Majesties.  I  have  not  seen  my 
way  clear  to  grant  these  requests.  I  have  adhered 
strictly  to  the  principle  of  not  abusing  the  favor  I  have 
won.  Never  have  I  tried  to  bear  to  the  Imperial  Court 
personal  ideas,  however  much  they  might  favorably 
appeal  to  my  own  approval.  No,  I  never  took  any  Chinese 
question  nor  requests  of  foreigners  to  Her  Majesty. 
Questions  of  my  own  I  did  take  to  her.  She  never  evaded 
nor  refused  to  answer  and  act  favorably  upon  any  question 
that  I  laid  before  her.  When  Her  Majesty  told  me  any- 
thing I  relied  upon  what  she  said,  and  she  never  failed 
me.  I  have  visited  their  Chinese  schools,  their  industries, 
the  country,  the  Great  Wall;  I  have  marked  their  pro- 
found admiration  for  their  Imperial  rulers,  studied  their 
Imperial  edicts  and  customs;  I  have  noted  their  love  and 
respect  for  ancestors,  parents,  children,  for  all  sorts  of 
pets;  I  have  observed  their  care  for  the  aged,  blind,  and 
crippled;  I  have  tried  to  learn  something  of  their  feast 
days,  their  ancestral  tombs,  and  many  other  things  that 
would  interest  Her  Majesty  and  show  her  that  I  too  am 
interested  in  China  and  her  people.  Her  Majesty  has 
bestowed  upon  me  many  hours  for  conversation;  and 
knowing  this  little,  I  could  speak  of  it,  and  Her  Majesty 
in  turn  would  enlarge  upon  the  topic  and  give  me  much 
more  information.  At  one  audience  I  spoke  of  the  native 
school  that  I  had  lately  visited  and  told  Her  Majesty  what 
I  saw  and  of  the  deep  interest  I  felt  in  those  bright  boys. 
I  casually  said,  "Such  bright  boys  will  be  a  power  in 


EDICT  CONCERNING  STUDENTS    253 

their  honorable  country.  As  foreigners  are  with  you,  if 
some  of  your  ablest  youth  could  be  educated  abroad  as 
well  as  at  home,  would  it  not  enable  them  to  meet  and 
understand  the  incoming  ideas?"  Her  Majesty  assented 
and  said,  "They  shall  be  sent  abroad."  A  few  days  later 
I  was  delighted  to  read  the  following  edict  from  Her 
Majesty's  "pencil." 

The  following  Edict  was  issued  on  the  twenty-third 
of  the  Twelfth  Moon  (February  1,  1902):* 

"  Our  international  relations  are  of  the  utmost  importance. 
At  the  present  time  when  we  are  seeking  to  restore  prosperity 
to  the  people  and  the  Government,  we  ought  more  than  ever 
to  gather  together  those  of  superior  merit.  If  those  who  go 
abroad  will  devote  themselves  earnestly  to  the  investigation 
of  foreign  methods  of  government  and  the  sciences  of  those 
countries,  we  may  hope  to  increase  our  talents  as  in  some 
measure  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  Government.  At  present 
there  are  many  students  from  the  various  Provinces,  zealous 
in  acquainting  themselves  with  current  affairs,  who  have  gone 
abroad  to  study  in  foreign  schools  and  learn  a  profession. 
This  practice  has  never  obtained  among  the  Imperial  Clans- 
men and  the  Eight  Banners,  and  it  is  urgently  necessary  that 
they  become  more  liberally  educated.  Let  the  Imperial  Clan 
Court  and  the  Lieutenant  Generals  of  the  Eight  Banners  select 
young  men  from  each  banner  between  the  ages  of  fifteen  and 
twenty-five,  of  good  character,  intelligent  minds,  and  sound 
bodies,  and  prepare  a  list  to  be  sent  to  the  Grand  Council, 
who  may  report  to  Us  and  await  Our  appointment  of  an 
official  to  re-examine  and  make  a  selection  of  a  certain  number, 
who  shall  be  furnished  with  means  and  sent  abroad  to  travel 
and  study,  availing  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  familiarize 
themselves  with  foreign  methods  and  enlarge  their  experience, 
that  they  may  assist  the  Court  in  its  purpose  to  cultivate  talent 
for  the  services  of  the  Government. 

"Respect  this." 

Whether  or  not  our  conversation  in  regard  to  foreign 

♦Translation  from  the  Peking  Gazette  of  February  i,  1902. 


254  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

education  had  its  influence,  I  care  little.  The  edict  has 
gone  forth.  At  the  audience  following  I  expressed  my 
pleasure.  I  also  spoke  of  her  edict  against  foot-binding, 
and  asked  if  it  would  have  an  immediate  effect  upon  her 
people.  Her  Majesty  replied,  "No;  the  Chinese  move 
slowly.  Our  customs  are  so  fixed  that  it  takes  much  time 
to  change  them." 

Whenever  I  found  that  we  had  customs  at  all  in  com- 
mon with  theirs  I  would  speak  of  the  Chinese  customs, 
then  state  that  our  country  has  similar  ones.  To  illus- 
trate: they  have  a  Moon  Feast,  wherein  they  bring  to- 
gether the  harvests  of  the  land  and  give  thanks  and  eat  in 
honor  of  their  Moon  god.  I  had  taken  great  pains  to 
learn  from  the  educated  higher  class  of  Chinese  ladies  the 
meaning  of  this  feast,  and  at  the  following  audience  I 
said  to  Her  Majesty  that  I  had  taken  great  interest 
in  their  Moon  Feast  just  past,  and  that  I  had  officially 
acknowledged  her  bountiful  gifts  at  this  season,  but  I 
asked  Her  Majesty  to  accept  my  personal  thanks.  Then 
I  enlarged  upon  the  thought  back  of  their  feast  and  said 
that  we  in  America  had  our  corresponding  Harvest  Moon. 
She  listened  with  great  interest,  and  her  bright  eyes  and 
face  grew  brighter,  as  I  told  her  of  our  harvest-moon 
season,  our  national  Thanksgiving  Day,  and  its  customs 
similar  to  those  of  their  Moon  Feast. 

In  speaking  of  cemeteries  I  told  her  that  we  too  had 
beautiful  burying  grounds  with  monuments  and  tablets, 
grass,  flowers,  shrubs,  trees,  lakes,  and  bridged  streams. 
I  said  that  we  often  visited  these  beautiful,  much-loved 
spots,  and  carried  freshly  cut  flowers  in  loving  memory  of 
our  departed  dear  ones.  The  thoughtful  Chinese  generally 
seem  surprised  when  I  tell  them  this.     I  have  been  asked, 


USE  OF  "PIDGIN  ENGLISH"       255 

"Do  you  not  forget  your  ancestors?    Do  you  remember 
them  too?" 

At  one  private  audience  Her  Majesty  said  to  me, 
"Should  you  like  to  hear  of  our  departure  from  Peking 
on  that  dark  day  after  the  foreign  troops  entered?"  I 
replied  that  I  should  be  much  honored  to  listen  to  Her 
Majesty,  and  added  that  I  had  carefully  avoided  any 
allusion  to  this  subject  lest  it  might  grieve  her.  She  then 
related  in  a  vivid  way  the  incidents  of  her  flight  and  that 
of  the  Court;  she  told  me  of  their  trials  and  privations, 
and  of  their  long  journey  in  carts.  This  great  ruler  knows 
and  remembers  events  as  they  pass.  Her  Majesty  cited 
to  me  many  things  of  which  I  thought  her  totally 
ignorant. 

The  Chinese  are  thinkers,  and  their  unfailing  memory 
is  a  wonderful  key  for  them.  In  teaching  them  to  think 
in  foreign  lines  I  sincerely  hope  that  much  foreign  learning 
will  not  clog  their  memories.  When  the  foreigner  and 
the  Chinese  are  not  arbitrary  and  are  willing  to  yield  a 
point,  they  work  quite  harmoniously  together.  To  illus- 
trate: you  know  that  "pidgin  English"  is  the  foreign 
business  language  of  China  and  that  this  language  is  com- 
posed of  English  words  with  Chinese  constructions.  The 
embellishing  words  are  dropped  as  superfluous.  The 
Chinese  of  the  different  Provinces  can  converse  in  "pidgin 
English"  when  their  own  dialects  will  not  permit  them 
to  understand  each  other.  Thus  you  see,  this  compromise 
is  helpful  to  all. 

The  Joint  Note  and  the  Protocol  have  brought  many 
changes.  The  two  changes  which  will  interest  you  most 
are  —  first,  the  Tsung  Li  Yamen  is  now  changed  to  Wai 
Wu  Pu,  and  holds  its  former  position  near  the  Imperial 


256  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Court;  second,  the  foreign  Ministers  when  presenting  their 
credentials  are  to  enter  the  front  gates  and  be  received 
by  Their  Majesties  in  the  Forbidden  City. 

There  has  been  no  rain  for  many  months,  and  the 
"  drought  devil "  is  ravaging  the  country.  The  destruction 
and  lack  during  poverty's  reign  are  appalling.  Prayers 
and  sacrifices  do  not  appease  this  devil.  There  is  a  super- 
stition of  long  standing  that  when  all  else  fails,  China  will 
call  upon  a  very  old  iron  tablet  for  help  in  her  direful  need. 
This  tablet  is  carefully  and  religiously  taken  from  place 
to  place.  It  has  at  this  time  been  taken  from  its  resting- 
place  and  is  on  its  journey  of  restoration.  May  China's 
trust  be  pure  enough  to  touch  the  hem  of  Christ's  gar- 
ment and  be  saved.  It  is  the  Spirit  that  quickeneth. 
Since  I  wrote  to  you  about  superstitions,  much  work  has 
been  done  in  my  heart  and  mind  to  clear  away  the  rub- 
bish that  I  might  see  the  soil  in  which  superstitions  are 
rooted.  I  find  that  the  quality  of  this  soil  in  all  nations 
varies  only  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  its  different 
innate  ingredients.  If  planted  and  nourished,  super- 
stitions will  grow  everywhere. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  21,  1903. 
WE  have  received  from  Her  Majesty  the  Empress 
Dowager,  yellow  silk  boxes  containing  two  beautiful  jade 
ornaments  for  our  little  granddaughter,  and  we  forward 
them  to  you  to-day.  This  was  a  great  surprise  to  us  all. 
Of  her  cordial  congratulations  to  me  at  the  audience  on 
the  fifteenth  I  have  already  written  you,  and  now  comes 


RAISING   FUNDS   FOR   CHARITY     257 

this  thoughtful  recognition  of  our  joy.  These  gifts  are 
beautiful,  but  I  prize  even  more  than  the  gifts  the  thought 
that  made  Her  Majesty  bestow  them  upon  our  baby. 
They  will  tell  you  their  own  story.  It  will  interest  you  to 
know  that  these  are  Her  Majesty's  first  gifts  sent  to  a 
foreign  little  one. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peeing, 
July  20,  IQ03. 

THE  attitude  which  the  foreigner  holds  toward  the  Chi- 
nese does  not  have  a  tendency  to  bring  to  light  the  best 
in  himself,  nor  in  them.  It  may  be  that  the  Chinese  see 
an  undesirable  man  in  the  foreigner.  The  littleness  of 
revenge,  and  the  boldness  of  self-asserting  superiority, 
are  not  the  most  attractive  characteristics  of  mankind. 
They  seem  at  times  to  rival  the  good  in  a  man  and  put 
it  to  a  severe  test,  but  they  never  efface  or  even  tarnish 
it.  When  the  battle  is  fought  and  the  smoke  clears 
away,  the  good  is  still  there  and  at  times  is  revealed  in 
all  men.  I  have  just  witnessed  a  street  scene  which 
called  forth  these  remarks. 

At  our  annual  meeting  for  the  Woman's  Winter 
Refuge  we  discussed  the  advisability  of  owning  our 
home,  and  methods  of  raising  money  for  this  purpose. 
As  I  do  not  approve  of  writing  to  individuals  for  dona- 
tions, I  suggested  that  each  member  of  the  association 
act  as  it  seemed  best  to  her.  I  said  that  if  they  would 
grant  me  one  hundred  or  more  copies  of  the  reports,  I 
would  send  them,  sealed,  to  my  friends  in  China  and 
elsewhere.    I  also  said  that  I  would  mark  in  my  report 


258  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

what  seemed  important  to  us,  but  that  I  would  write 
nothing.  Then,  if  it  appealed  as  a  need  to  these  friends, 
they  would  respond  to  that  need;  if  not,  no  answer  was 
required.  Over  one  hundred  of  these  little  messengers 
are  on  their  journey.  Do  you  not  see,  my  dear  girl, 
what  journeys  back  to  us  will  be  free-will  offerings? 

How  your  father  and  I  would  love  to  have  you  and 
Mary  with  us  in  our  home  life  and  in  our  social  duties, 
in  our  investigations  on  our  ponies,  yes  —  everywhere. 
But  our  two  girls  were  captured,  not  by  the  Chinese  in 
1900,  but  by  our  American  officers  in  1901.  If  we  loved 
them  less  we  would  grieve  for  them,  but  their  greatest 
happiness  is  ours. 

We  have  three  large  bays  and  two  white  ponies  now. 
They  are  all  single-footers,  and  are  among  the  best  here. 
They  seem  to  like  our  little  races  as  much  as  we  do,  and 
when  we  strike  the  usual  places  away  they  go.  When 
we  reach  home  the  boys  and  coolies  are  always  in  the 
outer  court  ready  to  help  us  dismount;  with  us,  they  pet 
and  reward  our  ponies  with  bits  of  vegetables. 

Of  late  I  have  been  able  to  get  some  very  choice 
things.  I  have  been  wanting  them  for  some  time,  but 
how  to  secure  them  I  did  not  know.  The  Princesses  and 
Chinese  ladies  help  me  to  obtain  their  beautiful  robes 
and  other  articles  not  on  public  sale.  Friends  —  seekers 
after  treasures  —  bring  many  things  to  me  from  their 
delving  into  the  unexplored  regions,  and  kindly  take 
me  into  byways  where  time,  unmolested,  has  deeply  buried 
things  of  rare  value. 

If  I  enter  a  Chinese  shop  which  is  widely  opened  to 
the  public,  respectfully  look  at  some  of  the  few  good 
things  in  sight,  price  them,  and  say  nothing  about  the 


COLLECTING  CHOICE  ARTICLES    259 

inferior  ones,  the  shopkeeper  will  show  me  an  inner  room 
with  more  good  things  and  fewer  poor  ones.  If  I  then 
appreciate  the  good,  he  will  take  me  into  another  room 
beyond,  with  still  better  goods  and  more  of  them.  I 
have  been  taken  into  and  through  six  different  rooms, 
until,  in  the  last,  all  things  were  of  the  best.  Is  not  this 
true  in  all  our  earthly  living  ?  If  we  recognize  and  know 
the  good,  more  will  be  revealed  to  us.  To  me  there  is  a 
great  joy  as  I  pass  on  and  on  step  by  step  into  the  rooms  of 
their  heart-treasures.  They  love  these  choice  produc- 
tions of  ages  and  really  pet  them.  These  merchants  so 
quietly  explain  what  these  things  stand  for  that  I  become 
friendly  and  acquainted  with  them;  and  when  they  or  their 
kindred  come  to  .my  door  and  ask  permission  to  remain 
a  few  days,  I  gladly  welcome  them,  and  sometimes  they 
do  not  leave  me.  Everything  great  or  small  which  I 
have  collected  has  its  little  story  in  my  memory  book,  and 
in  this  story  is  a  ray  of  joy.  This  seeking,  with  a  thought 
to  learn  in  detail  something  of  what  I  see,  has  brought 
into  my  possession  most  beautiful  and  valuable  things. 
To  illustrate:  I  saw  a  number  of  incense-burners  upon 
the  floor.  I  liked  the  shape  of  them,  so  I  asked  the  price. 
I  was  answered,  "They  have  no  value.  Take  them  all 
if  you  wish."  I  took  one  of  the  dirty  heavy  things,  as 
the  shape  still  attracted  me.  When  I  reached  home, 
Wang  took  this  incense-burner,  began  to  cut  into  it,  and 
then  said,  "I  boil  in  dried  apricot  sauce."  When  he 
returned  he  brought  to  me  a  polished,  gold- surfaced, 
deeply  carved,  beautiful  incense-burner  with  a  date  of 
over  four  hundred  years  ago  upon  it.  Nothing  of  this  was 
suggested  before  the  cleaning  process.  It  was  the  shape 
only  that  had  attracted  me.    Such  things  of  great  value 


260  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

are  seldom  found,  but  little  things  often  come  my  way  — 
far  more  of  them  than  I  can  give  a  home.  It  is  not 
quantity  that  I  strive  to  collect,  but  good  specimens  of 
the  different  lines  of  China's  best  productions.  We  are 
remaining  here  so  long  that  I  do  not  hasten  in  this  happy 
work.  Through  these  productions  I  am  learning  much 
of  the  people  who  made  them. 

One  investigator  who  was  visiting  the  Far  East 
said  to  me,  "I  concede  that  China's  art  has  more  effect 
upon  foreign  art  than  the  foreign  has  upon  the  Chinese. 
You  take  a  piece  of  China's  art  and  place  it  anywhere 
away  from  home,  and  it  gracefully  and  honorably  holds 
its  place;  but  a  beautiful,  dainty  foreign  piece  of  art 
seems  out  of  place  in  China." 

I  replied,  "Yes,  and  can  we  not  find  the  reason  for 
this  in  the  thought  that  conceived  and  executed  these 
different  styles  of  art?  The  Chinese  production  has  a 
positive  meaning  throughout  its  whole  construction; 
and  with  these  accumulated  expressions  in  thought- 
symbols  it  portrays  a  culture  that  graces  any  drawing- 
room,  library,  gallery,  museum.  It  has  something  to 
say  and,  in  dignity,  calmly  says  it.  Every  color  or  com- 
bination of  colors,  with  their  many  shades;  every  flower, 
tree,  plant,  fruit,  or  vegetable;  every  bit  of  water,  rock, 
plain,  or  mountain;  every  animal,  reptile,  bird,  bat,  or 
insect  —  in  fact  everything  that  holds  a  place,  speaks  a 
silent  language  that  is  felt,  although  it  may  not  be  heard 
nor  understood.  You  see,  each  symbol  is  individual, 
even  though  it  helps  to  make  up  the  whole.  Each 
knows  its  place,  knows  what  it  wishes  to  impart,  and  is 
at  home  with  its  associations.  China's  art  is  like  a  schol- 
arly man,  at  home  everywhere.     If  we  take  foreign  art 


A   TEMPLE  COMPOUND  261 

to  China,  its  richest  effect  is  lost.  It  is  likely  to  look  com- 
mon or  out  of  place,  because  its  setting  is  not  in  keeping. 
It  comes  without  a  fixed  meaning,  and  is  not  at  ease  among 
these  talking  things.  It  is  like  a  beautiful  person  with- 
out depth  of  thought." 

During  the  social  season  we  give  two  diplomatic, 
customs,  or  official  dinners  each  week,  besides  the  small 
social  or  complimentary  dinners  and  tiffins  to  friends  or 
people  bringing  letters  from  friends  asking  special  favors. 

You  recall  that  your  father  had  the  old  temple  on 
Canal  Street  repaired,  and  that  we  moved  from  our  old 
Legation  home  to  these  new  quarters.  The  Koreans 
bought  the  former  Legation,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
vacate.  This  old  temple  compound  is  composed  of  many 
courts  with  their  many  buildings.  This  temple  and  other 
buildings  in  the  Legation  quarters  are  divided  so  as  to 
accommodate  the  Legation  officials  in  their  work  and  to 
provide  homes  for  them. 

There  is  one  large  court  in  common  for  all.  The 
Minister  has  four  courts  and  their  accompanying  build- 
ings. In  the  summer  three  of  these  courts  are  p'eng,  that 
is,  covered  and  curtained  with  reed  mattings  supported 
by  a  framework  reaching  far  above  the  surrounding 
buildings.  By  a  system  of  ropes  and  pulleys  the  top 
is  rolled  and  unrolled,  and  the  curtains  are  hoisted  and 
lowered.  With  a  little  care  these  courts  are  always  cool. 
The  court  into  which  our  drawing-room  and  dining- 
room  open  is  p'eng.  A  large  matting  covers  the  paved 
floor;  tables,  chairs,  and  sofas  are  placed  in  groups. 
Evenings,  there  are  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  small  and 
large  different  colored  lanterns  hanging  high  and  low; 
upon  the  tables  globed  candles  are  standing.    Near  the 


i6i  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

centre  of  this  temple-court  stands  an  immense  bronze 
incense-burner  which  is  converted  into  a  lantern  with 
its  many  colorings.  In  this  court  there  is  also  a  large 
temple-bell  about  five  feet  high  and  three  feet  in  diameter, 
hung  upon  a  strong  hardwood  frame.  On  either  side 
and  within  the  court  is  a  large  evergreen  tree,  and  at  the 
base  of  these  trees  flowers  and  plants  are  banked.  At 
either  side  of  the  steps  leading  to  the  drawing-room  are 
wonderful  white  marble  tablets  yellowed  by  time.  Upon 
these  tablets  are  deeply  carved  dragons,  and  Chinese 
characters  that  recall  long-forgotten  history.  These 
tablets  tower  above  the  cornice  of  the  building.  Stand- 
ing alone  and  in  groups  are  beautiful  hand-painted  jars 
with  large  flowering  and  foliage  plants.  We  receive  our 
guests  in  the  drawing-room;  but  after  the  dinner  is  fin- 
ished, we  pass  into  this  court  to  spend  the  remainder  of 
the  evening.  On  our  days  at  home  we  receive  our  guests 
in  this  court.  The  aix  is  fresh,  and  the  beautiful  trees, 
potted  plants,  shrubs,  many  flowers,  and  delightful 
guests  make  the  day  truly  a  happy  one. 

To  get  out  of  the  city  for  a  few  days  your  father 
planned  a  trip  for  us  into  Manchuria  to  Mukden  and 
Newchwang.  In  the  interior  from  Newchwang  there  are 
rich  jade  quarries.  The  extensive  building  by  the  Russians 
in  Newchwang  was  bewildering.  It  looked  as  though 
they  had  come  to  stay  and  were  building  on  their  own 
soil.  It  was  hard  for  China  to  be  neutral  and  not  pro- 
test. If  she  had  openly  protested,  the  status  of  the  war 
would  have  been  more  complicated,  and  allies  might 
have  joined  Japan  and  Russia  in  their  awful  battles; 
all  through  that  unheard-of  invasion  upon  China  and 
her  people  she  stood  bravely  neutral.     Important  des- 


A   BIRTHDAY  ANNIVERSARY       263 

patches  kept  coming,  and  your  father  felt  that  we  must 
return  to  the  Legation. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
July  25,  1903. 
I  MUST  tell  you  about  my  birthday.  You  know  the 
Chinese  often  ask  the  ages  of  people.  About  two  months 
ago  the  wife  of  the  Grand  Secretary,  Mrs.  Wang  Wen 
Shao,  his  granddaughter,  Mrs.  Kao,  and  others  were 
calling.  One  asked  my  age,  and  I  told  her.  They  were 
at  once  interested,  and  asked  when  my  next  birthday 
came.  Wang  got  the  double  calendar,  Chinese  and  for- 
eign, so  as  to  make  sure  of  the  date.  They  talked  a  little 
while  by  themselves  and  then  asked  if  they  might  call 
upon  me  on  that  date.  I  said  that  I  should  be  greatly 
pleased  to  receive  them.  They  said  the  sixtieth  birth- 
day is  one  of  great  note  to  the  Chinese.  I  asked  one  of 
the  ladies  who  was  assisting  me  if  she  thought  they  were 
in  earnest,  and  if  they  would  remember.  She  replied, 
"They  surely  are  in  earnest  now."  Weeks  passed. 
When  we  returned  the  call,  no  allusion  was  made  to  my 
birthday.  We  had  planned  our  trip  into  Manchuria 
for  July,  but  I  told  your  father  that  we  must  get  back 
by  the  twenty-fourth.  We  returned  the  twenty-first. 
The  next  day  a  messenger  came  from  the  ladies  with 
compliments  asking  if  I  had  returned  and  if  I  was  well. 
On  the  twenty-third  gifts  began  to  come.  Four  most 
elegant,  large  embroidered  birthday  hangings  in  glass 
cases,  lovely  fans,  beautiful  ornaments,  fragrant  flowers, 
boxes  of  choice  tea,  boxes  of  delicious  fruits,  lotus  seeds, 


264  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

four  hams,  a  large  cask  of  wine,  and  many  small  dec- 
orations came  to  me.  Each  gift  brought  within  itself 
its  own  words  of  greeting.  Her  Majesty  sent  me  rich, 
beautiful  gifts  some  days  before.  How  she  learned 
about  this  day  I  never  knew. 

Imagine,  if  you  can,  my  surprise  and  my  feelings! 
Our  faithful  servants  gave  me  beautiful  expressions  of 
good  wishes.  Wang  helped  me  to  hang  the  banners  and 
place  the  other  gifts  in  the  most  approved  Chinese  style. 
I  learned  the  number  of  those  coming.  They  all  arrived 
at  twelve  o'clock,  bringing  their  happy  greetings.  We 
had  our  tea,  and  while  thus  seated  Wang  came  into  the 
drawing-room  with  a  yellow  card  and  two  large  yellow 
boxes.  We  all  knew  that  Her  Majesty  had  sent  them. 
The  lids  were  raised,  and  when  a  large  lotus  leaf  was  re- 
moved, there  were  revealed  beautiful  flowers  and  large, 
rich  peaches.  I  took  one  of  the  flowers  and  placed  it  in 
my  hair,  then  passed  them  to  each  lady,  requesting  that 
she  do  likewise.  All  were  delighted.  The  ladies  ex- 
amined the  different  flowers  and  pointed  to  the  peaches, 
earnestly  talking  among  themselves;  then  one  lady  said 
to  me,  "Her  Majesty  has  given  you  the  best  wishes  that 
she  could  give  any  one."  As  we  passed  out  through  a 
hall  leading  to  the  dining-room,  Sir  Robert  Hart's  band 
began  to  play  in  the  outer  court.  The  Chinese  seldom 
give  any  expression  of  surprise,  but  this  was  too  much, 
and  their  faces  betrayed  the  inner  thought.  We  passed 
on  into  the  dining-room,  and  here  through  Miss  Campbell 
a  surprise  awaited  us  all.  The  room  was  darkened ;  and 
upon  each  end  of  the  long  table  was  a  large  birthday  cake, 
with  sixty  small  colored  candles  all  burning.     After  a 


SIR  ROBERT  HART'S  BAND        265 

short  time  the  artificial  lights  were  removed  and  the  bright 
daylight  appeared. 

We  talked  of  the  different  customs  of  China  and 
America,  and  their  significance.  The  band  was  still 
playing,  and  Mrs.  Wang  Wen  Shao  remarked,  "I'd 
rather  hear  that  music  than  talk  or  eat."  I  said  if  they 
would  partake  of  the  food  we  would  soon  go  where  we 
could  see  the  band  playing.  I  told  them  they  were 
Chinese  musicians  playing  foreign  music  upon  foreign 
instruments.  I  sent  word  for  the  band  to  rest  from  their 
playing  and  partake  of  their  refreshments. 

After  we  had  enjoyed  Her  Majesty's  delicious  peaches 
and  their  language,  I  arose  and  said,  "Ladies,  we  have 
partaken  of  the  bountiful  good  wishes  of  Her  Imperial 
Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager.  Let  us  arise,  lift  our 
glasses,  and  unite  in  extending  to  the  Rulers  of  China 
our  heart's  best  wishes  for  health,  success,  and  happi- 
ness." As  is  customary,  these  ladies  graciously  ac- 
knowledged the  good  wishes  expressed  for  their  Rulers. 

We  invited  our  guests  to  take  seats  in  the  large  hall 
opening  into  the  court  where  the  band  was  playing. 
None  of  the  ladies  had  either  seen  or  heard  a  band  with 
foreign  instruments  playing  foreign  music.  They  watched 
them  until  the  last  note  was  sounded  and  the  last  musi- 
cian had  left.  After  our  Chinese  guests  had  departed, 
my  American  guests  sat  down  with  me  and  we  talked 
it  all  over.  My  efficient  helpers  told  me  more  in  detail 
the  sayings  of  our  Chinese  guests.  These  helpers  are 
of  the  best,  are  in  sympathy  with  my  efforts,  and  efficiently 
and  willingly  assist  me.  Without  these  co-workers  I 
should  be  helpless,  as  I  am  ignorant  of  the  Chinese  Ian- 


266  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

guage.  I  write  these  detailed  accounts,  because  in  this 
way  only  can  you  get  a  little  knowledge  of  the  Chinese 
character  and  inner  life.  I  am  striving  to  know  them 
through  intercourse  with  them. 

To-day  the  official  cards  of  these  ladies'  husbands 
were  brought  by  a  messenger  with  compliments  of  these 
ladies,  their  good  wishes,  and  hopes  that  their  visit  did 
not  weary  me.  I  sent  my  Chinese  card  in  return,  with 
my  compliments  and  appreciation.  They  have  a  time  for 
doing  everything,  and  they  seem  never  to  fail  in  perform- 
ing the  duties  of  that  time. 

We  are  to  visit  one  of  these  Chinese  families  very 
soon.  These  visits  give  me  a  good  idea  of  Chinese  homes. 
They  are  large  compounds,  with  many  buildings,  courts, 
grottoes,  watercourses,  artistic  bridges,  beautiful  gar- 
dens, large  trees,  and  pavilions  of  Oriental  beauty.  I  am 
delighted  to  enter  and  see  these  things,  they  have  been 
such  a  mystery.  I  can  now  see  how  the  sons  can  marry 
and  bring  their  wives  home  to  their  father's  palace. 
The  palace  grounds  are  walled;  in  this  large  enclosure 
are  many  compounds  for  the  homes  of  individual  fami- 
lies. Upon  many  of  these  homes  as  elsewhere  the  de- 
structive siege  has  left  its  mark  suggestive  of  better 
days. 

I  must  tell  you  of  three  Chinese  sisters.  Their  father, 
His  Excellency  Mr.  Hsu,  is  a  scholar  and  the  President 
of  the  "  Board  of  Rights."  These  sisters  are  enterprising, 
industrious,  studious,  and  accomplished.  We  often  see 
them  and  their  handiwork  with  needle  and  brush.  I 
have,  hanging  upon  the  wall,  a  beautiful  banner  which 
Her  Majesty  painted  and  gave  to  me.  On  the  second 
visit  of  these  sisters  they  asked  permission  to  look  about 


THE    EMPRESS    DOWAGER   AS    GODDESS 
OF   MERCY 

Foreground  and  background  painted  by  Court  Artists 


THREE   INTERESTING   SISTERS     267 

my  room.  When  they  came  to  this  valuable,  highly 
prized  banner,  they  seemed  much  pleased  and  said, 
"Our  father  wrote  that  poem,  there  is  his  seal."  The 
Empress  Dowager  gives  to  a  scholar  a  subject  for  a 
poem;  then  she  illustrates  it  in  a  colored  painting.  As 
I  become  better  acquainted  with  these  attractive,  lovable 
young  ladies  and  know  that  their  father  wrote  that  poem, 
there  is  added  to  the  former  joys  that  this  banner  has 
brought  to  me,  another  joy,  true  and  living.  The  eldest 
of  these  sisters  was  recently  married  and  we  were  invited 
to  see  the  wedding  gifts.  Their  mother  is  a  quiet,  unas- 
suming lady,  and  a  delightful  hostess.  The  "feast" 
was  elaborate. 

I  have  learned  to  fully  enjoy  much  of  the  Chinese 
food  which  my  prejudices  at  first  would  not  allow  me 
even  to  taste;  politeness,  however,  urged  me  to  pretend 
to  taste,  and  finally  common  sense  persuaded  me  that 
it  was  wise  to  really  taste;  and  now  I  am  fond  of  it. 
Prejudice  is  so  blind  that  it  will  not  see;  in  fact  it  does 
not  wish  to  see,  and  so  bars  out  many  blessings  that 
might  come  to  those  who  give  it  a  home  and  nourish  it. 

One  day  when  these  sisters  were  calling,  I  casually 
made  the  remark,  "Our  country  has  just  had  a  birthday, 
and  we  visited  the  Western  Hills  to  celebrate."  Then 
I  told  of  our  celebrations.  I  made  the  remark  that  our 
country  is  a  child,  and  very  young;  and  that  China  is 
so  very  old  that  perhaps  the  date  of  her  birth  is  forgotten. 
The  eldest  sister  first  spoke  about  China's  age  in  dynas- 
ties, then  spoke  of  Columbus's  discovery  of  America, 
of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,'  of  our  troubles  with  Eng- 
land, the  seceding  of  the  colonies,  of  our  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  many  other  things.     Where  did  she 


268  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

learn  all  this,  and  how  could  a  Chinese  lady  desire  to 
know  it?  We  talked  for  some  time  upon  education, 
and  this  topic  gave  me  the  opportunity  to  ask  where  she 
found  her  information.  She  replied,  "American  mis- 
sionaries have  translated  into  our  language  many  books 
on  history  and  other  subjects  for  their  schools,  and  these 
we  buy  and  study."  These  sisters  are  loyal  Chinese; 
they  are  students  of  their  own  country,  and  with  bright 
faces  they  talk  intelligently  of  their  own  customs. 

At  their  home  they  showed  us  their  library,  paintings, 
gardens,  and  their  exquisite  needlework.  They  are  most 
respectful  to  their  mother,  charming  with  one  another,  and 
cordial  to  their  friends.  After  this  sister  was  married,  she 
and  several  other  married  and  unmarried  ladies  called. 
The  highest  in  rank  asked  if  they  might  meet  the  Minister. 
The  unmarried  ladies  arose  and  asked  permission  to  with- 
draw to  the  library.  I  said  that  Mr.  Conger  would  see 
them  in  the  drawing-room.  The  married  sister  at  once 
said,  "But  the  unmarried  ladies  are  not  privileged  to 
meet  gentlemen."  Then  she  said,  "I  am  free  now,  I  can 
see.  I  have  a  teacher  in  painting,  and  learn  many  new 
things." 

Some  time  later  this  married  sister  left  Peking  for 
her  Southern  home  with  her  husband's  people.  A  few 
weeks  after  she  left,  the  two  sisters  sent  me  word  that  they 
were  in  mourning,  and  asked  if  they  might  come  and  tell 
me  of  their  sorrow.  They  came  and  told  of  a  sister 
unknown  to  me.  Many  years  ago  this  sister  was  be- 
trothed to  Li  Hung  Chang's  son.  The  son  died.  A 
pitiful  story  followed.  This  sister  went  into  seclusion 
for  many  years,  withdrawing  more  and  more  from  her 
own  family.     Of  late  she  had  literally  refused  to  take 


INTERPRETATION  OF  SYMBOLS    269 

food  or  drink,  and  she  had  at  last  committed  suicide. 
In  the  sight  of  the  Chinese  that  was  the  act  of  the  hero- 
ine. She  could  not  have  given  her  life  in  a  more  com- 
mendable way.  I  asked  if  this  sad  news  had  reached 
their  married  sister.  They  said  no,  Chinese  never  bear 
sad  news  to  a  bride  in  the  first  year  of  her  married  life. 

After  this  bride  had  gone  to  her  husband's  home  I 
received  letters  from  her  which  showed  the  line  of  her 
interests.  Her  husband  went  abroad  to  college,  so  she 
returned  from  the  South.  Soon  after  her  arrival,  she 
called  upon  me,  and  in  the  course  of  our  conversation  I 
asked  what  line  of  study  she  was  now  pursuing.  She 
said  that  she  was  still  working  upon  missionary  transla- 
tions, and  remarked  that  she  was  greatly  interested  in 
Professor  Jenks'  monetary  system.  It  did  not  concern 
me  to  know  how  deep  was  her  knowledge  of  this  intri- 
cate subject,  but  I  was  concerned  to  know  that  she  had 
heard  of  it,  and  was  interested.  The  Chinese  steadfastness 
to  an  idea  and  their  great  memories  permit  them  to  delve 
deeper,  and  with  clearer  understanding,  than  can  the 
average  foreigner. 

You  will  be  interested  in  the  interpretation  of  the 
flowers  the  Empress  Dowager  sent  on  my  birthday. 
As  I  have  said  before,  there  is  a  symbolism  in  everything 
Chinese,  and  I  know  this  symbolism  adds  a  charm  to 
a  gift  already  beautiful.  The  peach  and  oleander  blos- 
soms express  the  wish  for  "long  life,"  "rich  in  suste- 
nance and  beauty. ' '  This  sentiment  associated  with  the 
peach  is  universally  understood,  but  I  have  found  no  one 
who  could  give  an  account  of  its  origin.  The  lotus  leaf 
indicates  ' '  purity  and  modesty. "  "  The  superior  man,  like 
the  lotus,  although  coming  through  mire,  is  untainted; 


27o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

although  bathed  in  sparkling  water  and  rising  in  beauty 
is  without  vanity."  The  aster  means  "superior  to  cir- 
cumstances." These  blossoms  still  appear  after  frost 
falls,  and  express  the  thought  of  unfading  beauty.  The 
orange  marigold,  "beautiful  in  age,"  is  fragrant  and 
brilliant  in  the  declining  season.  These  sentiments  fre- 
quently appear  in  Chinese  verse  and  often  accompany 
rich  gifts. 

Early  one  morning  this  spring  we  were  riding  toward 
the  Summer  Palace  where  the  Court  was  spending  the 
summer  months.  Yellow  soil  was  being  spread  upon  the 
streets  leading  into  the  Forbidden  City  and  we  knew  that 
this  indicated  that  the  Court  was  going  to  enter.  In  a 
secluded  place  in  the  court  of  the  city  gate  we  dismounted 
and  awaited  the  passing  of  the  yellow  chair,  the  many 
red  ones,  and  their  large  number  of  attendants.  Two 
days  after  I  was  paying  a  visit  to  a  Princess  who  had  been 
one  of  the  Imperial  party,  and  I  asked  for  what  purpose 
the  Court  returned  to  the  city.  The  answer  was  given 
in  a  quiet,  clear  way,  "The  Empress  has  charge  of  the 
domestic  industries  of  the  Empire.  This  is  the  season 
for  the  silkworm,  and  the  Empress  with  her  Princesses 
visits  the  Forbidden  City  and  offers  prayers  and  pays 
homage  at  the  shrine  of  the  god  of  the  silkworm.  They 
beseech  his  support  and  protection  of  this  little  worm 
during  its  industrious  work.  After  the  worm  has  fin- 
ished its  labors,  again  Her  Majesty  and  her  Princesses 
visit  this  shrine  and  offer  praises  of  gratitude  for  the 
answer  to  their  prayers." 


SITTING   FOR  THE  PORTRAIT      271 

[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
August  24,  1  go 3. 

I  HAVE  more  to  tell  you  about  Her  Majesty's  portrait. 
I  wrote  to  Miss  Carl,  the  artist,  to  be  here  near  the  first 
of  August  in  order  to  be  ready,  at  Her  Majesty's  sum- 
mons, to  appear  at  the  Palace.  We  were  silent  upon 
this  subject;  no  one  knew  of  the  coming  event.  On  an 
auspicious  day  early  in  August  we  were  summoned  to 
the  Court,  and  the  work  was  begun.  The  day  was  a 
bright  one,  and  Her  Majesty  seemed  happy  as  she  re- 
ceived us  informally  and  cordially.  The  Emperor  was 
present  for  a  short  time,  then  withdrew.  The  Princess, 
Lady  Yii,  and  her  daughters  in  their  midsummer  dress 
were  truly  attractive.  Lady  Yii  and  her  daughters  were 
most  helpful  as  Her  Majesty's  interpreters;  you  know 
they  speak  English  fluently.  Eunuchs  and  slave  girls 
stood  about  the  room  ready  to  serve. 

While  Her  Majesty  was  posing  for  her  portrait,  two 
eunuchs  knelt  before  her  with  communications.  Her 
Majesty  took  one  and  perused  it,  then  took  the  other. 
All  was  quiet,  and  the  intensity  of  her  expression  while 
reading  spoke  volumes.  I  was  truly  thankful  for  this 
incident,  as  I  was  enabled  to  see  the  deep,  thoughtful 
expression  of  this  keen,  watchful  Empress  Dowager  of 
China.  Her  Majesty's  Imperial  robe  and  adornments 
far  surpassed  the  richness  and  elegance  of  those  worn 
at  the  audiences  for  foreigners.  A  charcoal  sketch  was 
made,  and  the  likeness  pleased  all. 

After  a  "feast"  our  Imperial  hostess  took  me  by  the 
hand,  and  we  led  the  way  through  corridors  and  courts 


272  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

to  the  theatre  court  As  Her  Majesty  talked  with  me, 
she  placed  upon  my  wrists  two  beautifully  carved  brace- 
lets. We  were  seated  on  the  veranda  opening  from  Her 
Majesty's  private  rooms,  facing  the  theatre.  The  large 
stage,  of  itself  a  fairy  building,  was  elaborately  decorated, 
and  the  performers  were  all  in  harmony  with  their  sur- 
roundings. Yellow  programmes  were  handed  to  us, 
and  Her  Majesty  explained  the  play,  which  we  greatly 
enjoyed.  The  Empress  Dowager  and  the  Princesses 
were  most  cordial,  and  imparted  good  cheer  to  their 
guests.  When  we  took  our  departure  the  Princesses 
accompanied  us  through  the  court.  The  magnitude  of 
this  portrait-painting  is  beginning  to  grow  upon  me. 
What  will  the  end  be  ?  Miss  Carl  has  not  come  in  since 
we  left  her,  but  messages  frequently  pass  between  us. 
She  is,  however,  getting  along  nicely.  Untold  attentions 
and  privileges  are  bestowed  upon  her. 

The  Legations  are  progressing  slowly  in  their  build- 
ing. Difficulties  keep  arising  as  the  workmen  are  not 
familiar  with  foreign  methods.  The  Italian  Minister 
told  me  that  they  had  trouble  with  one  of  his  contractors 
in  putting  up  his  Legation  buildings.  The  contractor, 
it  seems,  fell  short  of  funds,  and  the  Minister  insisted  that 
he  must  pay  up.  The  man  begged  for  mercy  and  said 
that  he  was  bankrupt,  that  the  Fates  had  worked  against 
him.  The  Minister  said  that  he  could  not  listen  to  such 
talk,  but  the  man  still  begged  and  insisted  that  he  had  no 
money.  Finally  he  left  without  reconciliation.  In  a 
few  days  a  large  Chinese  coffin  was  brought  to  the  Min- 
ister, with  the  message:  "This  coffin  is  all  that  I  have. 
I  have  kept  it  for  years;  but  as  you  insist  that  I  must  pay 
you,  I  bring  and  lay  at  your  feet  my  last  and  my  all." 


THE  APPROACH  OF  WAR  273 

Kotowing,  he  begged  him  to  take  the  coffin  and  forgive 
the  debt.  The  Minister,  horrified,  told  the  man  to  take 
the  coffin  and  depart.  When  we  can  realize  what  the 
coffin  means  to  the  Chinese,  we  can  somewhat  realize 
the  great  sacrifice  this  man  was  making. 

Our  Legation  is  going  to  be  substantial  and  fine.  It 
may  take  two  years  to  finish  it.  Mr.  Nealy,  the  govern- 
ment architect,  is  very  particular  and  thorough  about 
every  part.  He  works  many  hours  a  day,  and  every 
day;  I  never  saw  greater  perseverance  and  endurance. 
Your  father  makes  his  daily  visit  to  the  new  Legation 
to  note  the  progress,  and  gives  words  of  encouragement. 

The  war  clouds  are  gathering.  Can  it  be  that  two 
civilized  nations  will  fight  the  awful  battles  of  bloodshed  ? 
Japan  is  contending  for  her  existence.  Russia  is  keeping 
still  and  awaiting  developments.  The  outside  world 
is  looking  on  and  declaring  that  it  desires  a  reconcilia- 
tion without  bloodshed. 


[To  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
August  30,  1  go j. 

HOW  the  days  fly,  and  the  months  pass,  and  the 
years  —  not  one  of  them  long!  Each  bears  more  sun- 
shine than  clouds.  Friendship's  love  is  among  the  joys 
of  living.     It  faithfully  warms  the  heart  and  reassures. 

The  Chinese  ladies  do  not  retrace  their  steps,  nor 
cease  to  open  their  doers  to  us.  On  the  contrary,  they 
manifest  a  growing  interest  to  receive  me  and  my  party 
and  to  be  received  in  return.  If  they  cannot  come,  they 
send  tokens  of  remembrance  to  us. 


274  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

The  Chinese  have  many  feast  days.  On  these  occa- 
sions the  Empress  Dowager  sends  to  the  Diplomatic 
ladies,  as  well  as  to  her  own  people,  plants,  fruits,  cakes, 
and  other  gifts  according  to  the  day.  One  season  she 
sent  me  eight  painted  porcelain  pots  with  fine  black 
stands.  These  pots  were  filled  with  most  thrifty  bush 
peonies  bearing  many  exquisite  pink  blossoms  and  buds, 
and  I  have  preserved  not  only  the  beautiful  memory  of 
these  blossoms,  but  their  petals.  I  have  a  pillow  filled 
with  them  and  have  covered  it  with  the  Imperial  yellow 
embroidered  in  unfading  flowers;  so  I  keep  fresh  a  precious 
memory  by  preserving  as  nearly  as  possible  its  outward 
expression.  At  another  time  she  gave  four  similar  pots 
and  stands  filled  with  rich  orchids;  at  still  another,  four 
large  acacia  trees  full  of  buds.  At  times  she  sends  most 
exquisite  flower  baskets  made  of  wired  white  jasmine  buds. 
These  baskets  are  composed  of  many  small  baskets  dec- 
orated with  silk  tassels  of  many  colors  and  one  very  large 
yellow  tassel  hanging  from  the  centre.  The  baskets  are 
filled  with  different  colored  flowers,  each  bearing  its 
good  wish  in  a  silent  language.  Her  Majesty  sends  cakes 
and  fruits  of  different  kinds,  in  round,  Imperial  yellow- 
boxes  decorated  with  gold  characters  and  Imperial 
dragons.  Sometimes  she  sends  yellow  silk  boxes  bear- 
ing birds'  nests,  sharks'  fins,  shrimps,  or  tea.  Among 
Her  Majesty's  choicest  gifts  to  me  are  banners  and  fans 
of  her  own  painting. 

The  Chinese  are  very  systematic  in  all  that  they  do. 
Twice  a  year  an  edict  is  issued  by  the  Emperor  indicating 
the  day  when  his  subjects  shall  change  to  winter  or  summer 
clothing.  The  winter  clothing  is  dark  and  is  lined  with 
fur  or  wadded;  hats  and  shoes  correspond  with  the  cloth- 


Starting  for  the  Palace  to  See  Her  Majesty's  Portrait 
Our  Chinese  Cart  in  Its  Winter  Dress 


SUMMER  AND   WINTER  CUSTOMS    275 

ing  in  weight.  The  summer  clothing  is  light  in  weight 
and  color,  white  and  light  blue  prevailing;  here  again 
hats  and  shoes  correspond  with  the  garments  worn.  One 
day  you  may  be  out  and  see  every  one  in  winter  clothes; 
the  very  next  day  you  may  see  every  one  in  summer 
clothes.  One  day  in  the  spring  I  was  making  calls,  and 
it  seemed  warm  in  the  cart.  On  my  return  I  said  to  Wang, 
"Tell  Mafoo  I  wish  him  to  take  the  side  paddings  out 
of  the  cart,  take  out  the  glass  windows,  put  in  the  netting 
and  curtains,  and  put  all  the  awnings  up."  Wang  re- 
turned and  said,  "Madame,  Mafoo  say,  'No  proper  time 
put  summer  dress  on  cart.  Mafoo  and  carter  wear  winter 
clothes,  cart  wear  winter  clothes.'  "  I  said,  "All  right, 
wait  for  proper  time." 

In  the  winter,  when  alone,  we  dine  at  half-past  seven, 
in  the  summer  at  eight  o'clock.  Without  one  word  from 
me,  when  they  change  their  clothes  they  change  the  dinner 
hour.  Do  you  see  the  system  they  observe  ?  I  am  quite 
methodical  myself,  and  it  appeals  to  me.  They  have  a 
certain  kind  of  jewelry  to  wear  each  season.  At  one 
Imperial  summer  audience  Her  Majesty  took  from  her 
person  a  beautifully  carved  ornament  with  small  and 
large  pearls,  corals,  and  tassels,  and  hung  it  upon  my  pin. 
At  the  next  audience,  which  was  late  in  autumn,  I  thought 
that  I  would  wear  something  that  Her  Majesty  had  given 
me,  so  I  hung  this  gift  where  Her  Majesty  had  placed  it. 
My  boy  Wang  saw  it,  and  quietly  said,  "No  proper  time 
wear  that  summer  ornament."  I  said,  "Very  well.  It 
must  rest  in  its  box  until  its  proper  time  comes." 

This  boy  watches  me  very  closely,  and  I  encourage 
him  to  do  so.  I  have  a  black  satin,  fur-lined  Chinese  coat 
that  I  wear  when  going  to  dinners  in  the  winter.     I  put  it 


276  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

on  to  wear  to  a  Chinese  dinner.  Wang  again  came  to  me 
and  said,  "More  better  you  wear  light,  long,  foreign  coat." 
Off  it  went,  and  my  own  "lady's  coat"  was  donned.  He 
seems  very  jealous  for  me,  and  wishes  me  to  please  the 
Chinese,  as  he  knows  that  I  do  not  wish  to  offend,  nor  to 
merit  their  ridicule. 


[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
November  8,  IQ03. 

I  JUST  wish  that  you  could  realize  what  lovely,  valu- 
able things  come  my  way,  now  that  I  know  them  and 
with  delight  recognize  them.  Things  are  so  much  like 
people  —  they  gladden  the  heart  or  sadden  it.  Do  you  not 
see  it  is  recognizing  the  good  in  them  that  gladdens  and 
attracts,  and  the  non-recognition  that  sickens  and  repels? 
If  we  look  into  the  hidden  meaning  of  things  or  the  inmost 
heart  of  people,  we  find  the  attractive  form  expressed  or 
suggested  in  a  greater  or  less  degree. 

Wang  came  to  me  one  day  recently  and  said,  "Madame 
see  Moon  Feast?"  I  did  wish  to  see  it,  and  went  to 
the  outer  p'eng  court  where  I  saw  a  well- filled  table  and 
around  it  were  the  house  boys  and  the  head  servant  of 
each  department.  This  Moon  Feast  is  yearly  celebrated 
throughout  China,  and  rejoicings  are  offered  for  the  har- 
vest of  the  summer.  Thus  the  mind  idealizes  events,  and 
the  heart-beats  vitalize  them. 

I  know  of  no  better  way  to  answer  your  questions 
about  Chinese  art  than  to  send  you  a  letter  that  Dr.  Head- 
land wrote  me  in  answer  to  some  of  my  inquiries  upon  the 
same  subject.    You  have  breathed  the  atmosphere  of  art 


STUDY  OF  CHINESE  ART  277 

for  so  many  years  that  you  can  appreciate  the  great  work 
that  Dr.  Headland  has  done  in  diligently  collecting  choice 
pieces  and  studying  them  to  get  a  knowledge  of  their 
worth.  I  have  often  wished  that  you  could  listen  to  his 
enthusiastic  conversations  upon  the  many  lines  of  Chinese 
art.     Dr.  Headland  writes  as  follows: 

During  the  past  seventeen  years  in  China,  I  have  studied 
carefully,  as  you  know,  her  porcelain,  her  bronze,  her  jade, 
brass,  embroidery,  tapestry,  lacquer,  carving,  and  pictorial 
art,  and  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say  that  her  painting  is  by  far  the 
most  attractive  of  them  all.  In  this  she  has  always  led  the 
Orient,  as  it  is  well  known  that  all  Japanese  art  is  but  a  copy 
and  modification  of  the  Chinese  masters. 

In  her  painting  she  has  two  styles,  the  Northern  and  the 
Southern.  The  former  has  always  used  a  good  deal  of  color, 
while  the  attraction  of  the  latter  is  in  the  caligraphy,  or  brush- 
work.  In  each  of  these  styles  there  are  a  great  many  schools, 
and  during  the  latter  part  of  the  Ming  and  the  present  dynasty 
there  has  come  into  vogue  an  eclectic  school,  which  has  tried 
to  embody  the  beauties  of  both  styles;  and  some  of  her  great- 
est artists  belong  to  these  two  dynasties. 

I  have  traced  back  the  history  of  her  art  to  about  1324 
B.  C,  but  little  can  be  found  worthy  the  name  till  two  or  three 
centuries  before  our  era.  From  that  time  we  have  connected 
history. 

She  has  a  regular  system  of  drawing.  She  began  her 
painting  by  frescoing,  and  mixed  her  paints  the  same  as  did 
the  old  Italian  masters  —  pulverized  minerals  mixed  with  glue 
and  water.  The  great  stimulus  to  her  art  was  religion  —  the 
introduction  of  Buddhism  —  and  its  first  progress  was  real- 
ized in  the  decoration  of  temples.  The  golden  age  of  her 
painting,  like  that  of  her  literature,  poetry,  and  music,  was 
during  the  seventh  and  eighth  centuries,  about  seven  or  eight 
centuries  earlier  than  our  own. 

She  has  no  art  schools,  technically  so-called,  though  each 
master  has  always  had  a  great  number  of  pupils  who  either 
became  his  followers  or  established  schools  and  methods  of 
their  own. 


278  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

Among  their  artists  they  have  the  realistic,  the  naturalistic, 
the  impressionist,  and  finger-painting,  together  with  others 
for  which  we  have  no  adequate  English  names  —  such  as  out- 
line drawings  and  pai  miao,  a  species  of  fine  outline  drawing 
of  the  clothing  while  the  faces  and  hands  of  the  figures  are 
natural. 

You  know,  of  course,  that  they  have  had  many  well-known 
lady  artists,  and  among  these  will  always  be  placed,  I  have 
no  doubt,  your  friend,  Her  Majesty  the  Empress  Dowager, 
and  her  teacher,  the  Lady  Miao.  In  my  collection  of  more 
than  five  hundred  paintings,  prints,  and  rubbings,  I  have  seven 
of  the  Empress  Dowager's  and  one  by  Lady  Miao.  This  last 
was  painted  by  Lady  Miao  at  the  request  of  the  Princess  Shun, 
sister  of  the  Empress,  and  given  as  a  present  to  my  wife. 

The  studies  of  Chinese  artists  embrace  all  those  of  the 
West;  landscape,  peach-blossoms,  and  bamboo,  flowers,  fig- 
ures, animals,  birds,  butterflies,  insects,  fish  —  in  fact,  any- 
thing that  can  be  drawn  or  colored.  Their  point  of  view  in 
landscape  is  usually  from  an  elevation,  the  only  point  from 
which  one  can  view  the  landscape.  It  is  on  this  account  that 
it  has  often  been  said  that  they  lack  perspective.  I  think  it 
can  be  shown  that  in  their  horizontal  scrolls  they  have  as  good 
perspective  as  we  have,  while  in  their  perpendicular  or  hang- 
ing scrolls,  they  have  a  feature  of  perspective  that  our  artists 
have  never  yet  used. 

One  of  the  difficulties  in  Chinese  drawing  and  painting  is 
that  a  mark  once  put  on  can  never  be  covered  or  erased.  They 
work  with  India  ink  —  falsely  so-called,  for  it  is  Chinese  ink  — 
and  water-colors,  on  either  silk  or  paper  specially  prepared  for 
this  purpose,  and  as  both  their  colors  and  their  ink  are  indeli- 
ble, a  mark  once  put  on  is  there  forever. 

Chinese  art,  like  almost  everything  else  Chinese,  is  an  ac- 
quired taste;  but  after  we  have  once  acquired  it,  it  becomes  a 
passion.  Very  sincerely, 

Isaac  T.  Headland. 


SUICIDE  OF  PRINCESSES  279 

[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

Peking,  December  15, 1903. 

YOU  will  be  interested  to  hear  of  a  visit  made  us  by 
Dowager  Princess  K'e  and  the  ladies  of  her  household. 
One  of  the  party  we  had  never  met  before.  The  subject  of 
the  siege  was  brought  up  by  these  ladies,  and  they  talked 
of  their  great  losses  of  property,  treasures,  and  dear  ones. 
I  asked  this  stranger  where  she  was  living  at  the  time. 
She  told  me,  and  I  said  to  her: 

"I  visited  that  palace  in  company  with  missionaries 
who  were  in  search  of  a  place  to  rent  for  their  mission.  We 
were  shown  through  the  premises,  and  in  one  room  there 
were  three  coffins  containing  the  remains  of  three  ladies 
who  jumped  into  a  well  near  by.  We  were  shown  this 
well  and  were  told  that  four  ladies  attempted  to  commit 
suicide,  but  one  was  rescued." 

She  attentively  listened,  then  uncovered  her  wrist, 
showing  a  scar,  and  said,  "I  am  that  fourth  lady." 

With  intense  interest,  I  asked,  "Why  did  you  jump 
into  the  well?" 

She  replied,  "We  had  suffered  so  much  from  the 
Boxers,  the  Chinese  soldiers,  and  other  desperate  people, 
that  when  the  foreign  soldiers  entered  the  city,  we  thought 
our  end  had  come.  Rather  than  fall  victims  to  them, 
we  would  honorably  end  our  lives.  I  was  the  third  who 
made  this  death  jump.  The  fourth  fell  upon  me,  turned 
my  head  out  of  the  water,  and  I  was  taken  from  the  well. 
One  of  the  three  was  the  betrothed  wife  of  the  Emperor's 
brother,  the  brother  who  has  lately  married  Jung  Lu's 
daughter." 

When  the  Chinese  ladies  visit  me,  I  strive  to  make  the 


280  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

visit  interesting  to  them.  I  bring  out  the  best  Chinese 
and  American  productions  that  I  have  in  my  possession, 
and  we  talk  about  them.  When  we  were  all  seated  at  the 
dining-table,  with  more  enthusiasm  than  I  ever  saw  a 
Manchu  lady  express,  the  Dowager  Princess  said: 

"Before  the  troubles  I  would  collect  and  look  upon 
foreign  pictures,  buildings,  and  gardens,  and  they  passed 
before  me  an  imaginary  panorama.  I  did  wish  that  I 
could  look  inside  the  homes,  and  I  am  now  permitted  to 
look  upon  a  living  panorama." 

She  is  a  bright,  educated,  intelligent  lady  of  high  rank, 
and  is  queen  of  her  home.  All  seem  to  pay  her  homage, 
and  yet,  as  far  as  we  can  see,  her  treatment  of  her  subordi- 
nates is  gentle  and  tender. 

Through  books,  we  have  heard  so  much  about  the 
"cruel  mother-in-law"  that  we  have  not  been  asleep  in 
our  watchfulness  to  detect  this  cruelty.  They  have  their 
rules  for  showing  respect,  honor,  and  duty,  and  seem 
happy  in  living  these  rules.  Such  deference  shown 
parents,  older  people,  and  those  of  rank  I  never  saw  else- 
where. From  their  earliest  childhood,  the  Chinese  are 
taught  obedience  to  rules  and  customs. 

This  patient  obedience  they  impart  to  their  animals, 
fowls,  and  birds.  They  will  drive  anywhere  a  large 
drove  of  swine,  a  flock  of  sheep,  ducks,  or  turkeys,  by 
patiently  talking  to  them.  Mules,  ponies,  and  donkeys 
will  promptly  obey  commands  without  lines.  Our  carter 
never  speaks  to  our  mule  nor  whips  him  when  we  are  in 
the  cart.  He  has  lines,  but  he  seems  to  guide,  increase  or 
lessen  the  mule's  speed  by  gently  touching  different  parts 
of  the  body  with  his  whip.  The  Chinese  love  their  chil- 
dren and  animals,  and  pet  them.     Some  say  they  are  cruel 


Princess  K'e  in  Festive  Attire 


A   RICH    PALACE   DESPOILED      281 

to  their  beasts  of  burden,  but  I  have  seen  little  beating  or 
persecution  of  animals  in  China.  True,  the  loads  put 
upon  them  are  almost  impossible,  but  the  people  patiently 
and  diligently  plod  under  heavy  loads,  and  so  do  their 
animals.  I  often  look  at  those  bulky  loads  and  wonder 
how  either  men  or  animals  can  budge  them,  let  alone  carry 
or  haul  them. 

As  it  is  not  etiquette  for  daughters-in-law  to  sit  in 
the  presence  of  their  mothers-in-law,  they  arrange  to 
call  at  different  times.  Princess  K'e,  the  son's  wife, 
called  with  other  ladies.  Dowager  Princess  K'e's  pal- 
ace is  very  large  and  has  many  courts,  compounds, 
gardens,  grottoes,  summer-houses,  and  a  large  park  of 
beautiful  trees.  This  palace  is  where  we  tiffined  with 
the  British  officers  (1901)  in  the  West  Tartar  City.  You 
will  remember  how  the  rooms  were  decorated  with  rich, 
choice  embroideries,  porcelain,  and  elaborately  carved 
black  wood  furniture.  All  this  is  gone  now.  Their  an- 
cestral halls  are  in  ruins,  and  the  tablets  of  many  genera- 
tions have  been  carried  away  or  destroyed.  At  one  time 
when  we  were  visiting  Princess  K'e  she  pointed  to  the 
buildings  as  we  passed,  and  in  a  most  pathetic  way  said: 
"There  are  our  ancestral  halls.  They  are  empty  now. 
In  nineteen  hundred  they  were  used  as  stables."  Noth- 
ing more  was  said,  and  we  walked  on  silently.  Those 
halls  were  the  tablet  home  of  a  long  line  of  "  iron- 
capped"  princes.  Centuries  ago  this  palace  had  been 
awarded  by  the  Emperor  to  one  of  these  noted  ancestors. 
During  the  occupancy  of  their  palace  by  the  British,  this 
Dowager  Princess  asked  permission  to  reclaim  money 
which  had  been  concealed  and  the  request  was  granted. 
For  this,  she  seemed  very  grateful. 


282  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Dowager  Princess  K'e  was  the  first  wife  of  Prince 
K'e,  and  there  are  three  secondary  wives  with  her.  Two 
of  these  secondary  wives  have  children.  The  Prince 
and  the  brother  about  to  be  married  are  the  real  sons  of 
the  first  secondary  wife.  All  the  children,  however, 
belong  to  the  Dowager  Princess  and  are  recognized  as 
her  children  and  have  their  father's  rank.  The  third 
secondary  wife  has  no  children;  and  the  first  secondary 
brought  one  of  her  sons  to  me  with  this  unfortunate 
sister-wife  and  placing  the  little  fellow's  hand  in  hers 
said,  "This  boy  is  her  son.  I  gave  him  to  her  because 
she  was  childless."  To  them  these  marriages  are  right, 
and  these  homes  seem  to  be  happy.  Every  man  and 
woman  must  have  children  or  a  child  to  worship  at  their 
tombs. 

The  occasion  of  this  visit  to  the  Palace  was  a  feast 
day;  friends  kept  coming  and  going,  and  we  met  many 
ladies  of  high  rank.  They  were  richly  dressed  and 
adorned  with  strange,  elegant  jewels.  Their  festival  head- 
trimmings  were  most  elaborately  decorated  with  fine 
pearls  and  brilliant  jewels.  These  ladies  bear  close  inspec- 
tion with  a  growing  admiration.  While  we  were  sitting 
at  our  feast  watching  the  puppet  entertainment,  a  little 
six-year-old  Duke  was  brought  to  us.  He  was  dressed 
in  Duke's  clothing  with  all  the  marks  of  rank,  and  came 
with  his  amah  to  pay  his  respects.  Without  one  indi- 
cation of  displeasure  or  annoyance  he  gave  his  saluta- 
tions and  passed  on.  We  were  deeply  interested  in  the 
little  child  because  we  knew  his  foster  mother,  Prince 
Ch'ing's  widowed  daughter,  whose  home  is  in  the  Im- 
perial Palace  with  Her  Majesty.  We  have  met  this  lovely 
Princess  in  the  Palace  and  elsewhere  many  times.     I  write 


THE  PALACE  OF   PRINCE  SU      283 

thus  in  detail,  to  so  thoroughly  introduce  you  to  this 
family  that  you  will  recognize  its  members  when  I  bring 
them  to  you  again. 

The  new  commercial  treaty  between  China  and 
America  was  signed  October  8,  1903.  Your  father  put 
much  of  his  best  thought  and  work  into  this  treaty,  and 
as  chairman  of  the  commission,  was  called  to  Shanghai 
to  finish  the  negotiations.  This  treaty  opens  new  ports, 
furnishes  increased  security  to  missionaries  and  other 
Americans  in  the  interior,  and  gives  new  and  encourag- 
ing facilities  to  foreign  trade.  Surely  this  step  promises 
and  opens  the  way  for  better  understanding,  better 
relations,  and  better  friendships. 


[To  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
January  15,  1904.. 

I  AM  going  to  tell  you  a  little  of  what  I  have  learned 
from  a  prominent  Chinese  family.  You  have  heard  of 
this  family,  as  we  occupied  their  palace  during  the 
siege.  The  "  iron-capped,"  or  hereditary,  Prince  Su,  who 
owned  this  palace,  had  stored  in  its  many  buildings  the 
treasures  of  centuries. 

When  the  siege  came,  this  lovely  home,  which  was 
within  the  Legation  quarters,  had  to  be  abandoned  by 
its  owners.  Prince  Su  and  his  family  left  all  in  our  keep- 
ing. There  was  great  effort  made  to  protect  these  build- 
ings and  treasures,  but  the  Boxers  set  the  premises  on 
fire,  and  with  difficulty  a  part  was  saved.  Ashes  and 
ruins  were  all  that  was  left  of  the  greater  number  of  those 
beautiful  buildings.     The  stores  of  rich,  choice  treasures 


284  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

were  burned.  This  palace  is  the  "Fu"  of  which  so 
much  was  written  in  reports  of  the  siege.  It  was  at  first, 
and  during  most  of  our  confinement,  the  refuge  for  native 
converts,  and  its  high  walls  were  fortifications  against 
the  shot  and  shell  of  our  enemies.  I  recall  these  things 
to  your  mind  because  I  have  much  more  to  tell  you  of 
this  family.  The  Chinese  suffered  from  loss  of  life  and 
property,  and  from  outrages  far  beyond  the  colorings  of 
word,  pen,  or  conception.  It  matters  not  what  miscon- 
ceived ideas  caused  this  great  calamity,  the  facts  remain 
the  same. 

I  never  expected  to  meet  Prince  Su  again  or  to  meet 
his  family,  but  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  meet  His 
Highness  and  his  brother  many  times  and  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  ladies  and  children  of  their  families. 
One  sister  married  a  Mongolian  Prince  who  holds  a  high 
official  position  in  Mongolia.  This  Princess  was  the  first 
whom  I  met.  Her  strong  character  and  intelligence  ap- 
pealed to  me  at  once,  and  my  admiration  increased  as  I 
knew  her  better.  Prince  Su  ranks  among  the  highest 
princes  in  China.  His  aged  mother  was  an  invalid  for 
many  years,  but  she  lived  actively  in  the  hearts  of  their 
large  families  and  her  friends.  When  this  Dowager 
Princess  Su  died  the  funeral  obsequies  lasted  many 
weeks,  and  the  season  of  seclusion  lasted  one  hundred 
days.  There  were  marked  ceremonies  observed  in  her 
honor.  To  know  what  they  are,  even  in  part,  one  must 
witness  them. 

Through  our  mutual  friend  Mrs.  Headland  we  sent 
our  sympathy  to  Prince  Su  and  his  family  in  their  deep 
bereavement.  With  their  acknowledgment,  they  ex- 
tended a  modest  but  cordial  invitation  to  the  ladies  of  our 


Dowager  Princess  K'e  Princess  Su 

Mongolian  Prince  and  Princess,  the  Latter  a  Sister  of  Prince  Su 


A    MANCHU    PRINCESS 


FUNERAL  OBSEQUIES  285 

household  to  go  to  their  home  of  sorrow  if  we  would  thus 
honor  them.  This  was  a  very  great  departure  from  the 
almost  iron-clad  customs  of  past  centuries.  The  day 
was  chosen,  and  in  a  respectful,  sincere  manner  we  en- 
tered the  presence  of  these  devoted  mourners.  It  seemed 
almost  trespassing  upon  their  devotion  and  sorrowing 
hearts.  The  deep,  true  sympathy,  earnest  thoughts, 
and  lessons  that  came  to  me  that  day  no  words  of  mine 
can  ever  tell.  I  will  only  try  to  speak  of  some  of  the  things 
that  my  eyes  saw,  ears  heard,  and  heart  felt.  It  was  a 
sacred  place  to  them  and  not  one  cloud  of  criticism 
passed  through  my  mind. 

In  the  street  near  the  entrance  stood  a  guard  of  sol- 
diers. As  we  entered  the  first  court,  many  were  standing 
and  servants  dressed  in  white  received  us  and  escorted 
us  through  other  courts.  The  nearer  we  approached  the 
inmost  court,  the  larger  the  number  of  servants  who 
received  us;  many  were  standing  as  sentinels.  The 
courts  were  almost  noiseless  except  for  the  strains  of 
music.  Each  court  seemed  to  have  its  servants  or  at- 
tendants ranking  higher  than  those  in  the  preceding  one. 
Finally,  we  arrived  at  the  open  door  leading  into  the 
hallway  and  other  rooms,  and  on  into  the  very  building 
and  room  where  the  ladies  of  the  home  were  paying 
their  homage. 

Prince  Su's  married  sister  received  us.  Having 
married,  she  has  gone  out  of  this  family  and  has  become 
a  member  of  her  husband's  family.  She  was  dressed  in 
coarse  white,  without  ornaments,  and  received  the  sympa- 
thizing guests.  We  were  at  the  threshold  of  their  "holy 
of  holies."  With  bowed  heads  we  entered  and  passed 
to  our  seats.    A  very  large  building  facing  the  south  was 


286  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

divided  into  three  compartments.  The  centre  faced  a 
large  p'eng  court  and  was  the  altar-room.  Just  back  of 
the  shrine  was  a  large  table,  and  back  of  this  table,  cur- 
tained from  view,  was  the  casket  containing  the  remains 
of  their  dear  one.  At  the  right  of  this  altar  was  the  room 
for  the  sons  and  grandsons  of  the  deceased ;  at  the  left  was 
the  room  for  the  daughters-in-law  and  granddaughters. 
We  were  at  the  left.  Upon  the  floor  were  large  white 
cushions,  and  upon  each  cushion  was  a  mourner  facing 
the  altar-room,  according  to  her  rank.  Through  their 
rough  white  clothing,  unpainted  faces,  unadorned  persons, 
and  wrapped  heads,  their  characteristic  features  and  ex- 
pressions shone  forth  in  strength  and  beauty.  They 
went  through  their  ceremonies  apparently  unconscious 
of  our  presence.  Bells  rang,  cymbals  tinkled,  and  uni- 
formed musicians  played  their  wailing  music.  Friends 
of  rank  came  and  paid  their  respects,  and  brought  their 
" feasts"  which  were  placed  upon  the  table  back  of  the 
shrine.  After  special  ceremonies,  these  " feasts"  were 
cleared  away  to  give  place  to  others.  We  were  invited 
to  the  room  at  the  right.  We  bowed  our  respects  to 
Prince  Su  and  to  the  others,  but  soon  withdrew. 

We  were  then  taken  into  the  large  p'eng  court.  An 
attractive  sight,  and  one  deep  with  meaning,  confronted 
us  here.  Dowager  Princess  Su's  long  life  of  rank  and 
honors,  adorned  with  goodness,  had  reaped  at  her  death 
a  bountiful  harvest  in  the  outpourings  of  loving  hearts. 
Hundreds  and  hundreds  of  gifts  filled  this  large  court. 
Each  was  significant,  and  bore  its  special  Chinese  message 
of  sympathy  to  this  bereaved  family.  Aside  from  this 
large  number  of  complimentary  gifts,  there  were  multi- 
plied all  imaginary  things  that  could  be  of  use,  comfort, 


RICH   FUNERAL  GIFTS  287 

or  pleasure.  No  description  of  this  full  court  could  do  it 
justice.  The  innate  adaptability  of  the  Chinese,  their 
cleverness,  gentle  touch,  patience,  exactness,  ability  to 
reproduce,  keen  eye  for  colors  and  shades  of  color,  and 
their  rigid  education  in  their  customs,  all  combined  to 
make  that  court  beautiful  and  significant  in  its  complete- 
ness. Most  of  the  articles  were  made  of  paper  or  papier- 
mdche,  in  imitation  of  the  real,  and  were  to  be  sacrificed  in 
fire.  Long  rows  of  blooming  plants  first  greeted  our  eyes. 
The  stands,  pots,  and  plants  looked  so  natural  that  we  at 
first  believed  them  so.  There  were  trunks  filled  with 
rolls  of  silk  and  satins,  trunks  of"  jewels,  fans,  rich  orna- 
ments for  the  hair,  end  many  sorts  of  toilet  articles, 
outer  and  under  garments,  shoes  and  stockings.  There 
were  amahs  ready  to  serve,  mafoos,  sedan  and  summer 
chairs,  household  chairs,  stools,  tables,  wardrobes;  in  fact, 
everything  to  wear  or  use  in  a  home  of  wealth  and  culture 
was  there  represented  —  all  in  paper  or  papier-mdche, 
and  all  were  to  be  burned  at  their  proper  time  and  place. 
Many  banners  and  decorations,  lanterns  and  umbrellas 
were  hanging  in  this  court.  In  an  outer  court  were  em- 
blematic animals  to  act  their  part  when  called  upon. 
These  services  on  this  extreme  scale  bewildered  me,  and 
it  may  be  that  I  have  omitted  to  mention  some  of  the 
most  important  things  —  surely  I  have  mentioned  very 
little. 

Many  days  later  we  witnessed  the  long,  imposing 
procession  as  it  bore  the  remains  of  their  loved  one  to 
their  beautiful  cemetery  outside  of  the  city.  In  being 
privileged  to  mingle  with  these  higher  Chinese  under 
varied  circumstances,  I  feel  that  I  can  more  accurately 
estimate  their  true  character. 


288  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Chinese  children  are  quiet,  polite,  and  lovable.  They 
are  awake  in  their  responses  and  conversation,  but  not 
forward  and  bold.  Their  manners  are  charmingly 
graceful;  these  they  are  assiduously  taught  from  their 
early  childhood.  Knowing  what  is  expected  of  them, 
they  are  at  home  in  their  place.  Not  long  ago  His  Excel- 
lency Wang  Wen  Shao's  wife  was  ill,  and  I  sent  her  a 
basket  of  flowers.  The  next  day  her  little  nine-year-old 
daughter,  a  lovely  child,  came  with  her  amah  to  bear  her 
mother's  thanks  and  good  wishes.  The  child  brought 
me  four  boxes  of  fresh,  choice  tea.  When  any  member 
of  the  family  came  into  the  room  or  rose  to  leave,  she  would 
rise  to  her  feet.  When  your  father  came  in,  she  stepped 
forward  and  with  a  Chinese  courtesy  greeted  him.  I 
wanted  to  take  the  little  one  in  my  arms  and  caress  her, 
but  I  knew  that  it  would  be  unwise  to  break  into  her  lady- 
like ways.  She  was  doing  beautifully  those  things  that 
she  had  been  taught  were  proper.  When  the  mother 
was  free  from  her  sick-bed  she  came  bringing  her  two 
children,  the  daughter  and  a  son  of  eleven  years.  After 
they  had  been  here  for  a  time  drinking  tea  and  chatting, 
the  mother  said,  "My  son  would  like  to  pay  his  respects 
to  His  Excellency,  the  Minister.  Could  your  first  boy  go 
with  him  ?  "  As  your  father  said  that  he  would  be  pleased 
to  receive  him,  the  young  lad  went  to  the  office.  Wang 
introduced  them,  and  with  all  the  grace  and  ease  of  an 
adult  the  little  fellow  acted  his  part.  He  promptly  an- 
swered questions  and  after  a  few  moments  politely  thanked 
"His  Excellency"  for  the  honor  and  backed  from  his 
presence.  We  have  seen  perhaps  twenty  or  thirty  chil- 
dren of  the  official  and  high-rank  people,  and  these  gra- 
cious manners  seem  natural  to  them.     I  must  also  assure 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CHINA  289 

you  that  these  gracious  manners  are  not  confined  to 
higher  classes.  The  non-official  and  untitled  people 
down  to  the  servants  know  how  to  be  polite,  and  are  so, 
even  under  most  trying  circumstances.  If  there  is  a 
raging  storm  within,  they  do  not  wish  to  "lose  face"  by 
giving  vent  to  their  feelings.  I  have  detected  charming 
characteristics  in  the  Chinese  of  which  the  foreigner  dare 
not  boast.  I  believe  in  the  sincerity  of  their  friendship. 
I  do  not  believe  in  all  of  their  pretended  friendships  nor 
do  I  in  the  pretended  friendships  of  foreigners.  There 
is  an  active  current  in  the  true  that  marks  out  the  real 
from  the  false,  the  Mving  from  the  dead. 


pTo  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
February  18,  igo/j.. 
THE  locked  and  barred  doors  of  centuries  are  little  by 
little  swinging  ajar,  and  the  world  looks  through  into  a 
house  —  a  home  —  all  China's  own.  At  first,  as  we  look 
we  see  nothing  but  confusion;  we  see  no  method,  and 
everything  seems  to  be  done  backwards;  we  see  customs 
without  meaning,  education  without  value,  religion  with- 
out a  redeeming  feature;  we  are  amused  at  the  people, 
at  their  style  of  clothes,  of  wearing  their  hair;  at  their 
modes  of  locomotion;  their  process  of  tilling  the  soil; 
their  ancestor  worship;  their  attitude  toward  women. 
We  ridicule  their  amusements,  and  doubt  their  sincerity 
in  all  things.  In  fact,  we  deride,  belittle,  and  wofully 
underrate  everything  Chinese.  We  feel  that  with  the 
banner  of  progress  in  our  hands,  with  superior  knowledge 
and  wisdom  in  our  minds,  and  determination  in  our 


29o  LETTERS   FROM  CHINA 

hearts,  a  reformation  must  come  to  this  household  that 
God  has  forsaken.  What  child  or  barbarian  has  come 
unbidden  into  this  home?  China  is  a  nation  that  has 
stood  self-supporting  for  over  four  thousand  years.  Dark 
clouds  and  fierce  storms  have  come  upon  her  from  time 
to  time,  but  she  has  baffled  them,  stemmed  the  threaten- 
ing billows,  and  stood  like  a  rock.  She  has  lived  to  see 
other  nations  come  into  being,  war,  and  fade  away,  while 
she  has  lived  on  and  on  without  the  war-thought  to  in- 
crease her  burdens  or  to  protect  herself. 

What  is  it  that  has  made  her  life  so  long?  Is  there 
not  some  recognition  of  the  eternal  truth  of  God  that  this 
great  old  nation  has  woven  into  her  warp  and  woof,  which 
has  made  her  stand  ?  The  object  of  my  letters  is  to  show 
you  something  of  the  thought  of  this  dense  population 
and  vast  empire  as  I  have  seen  it.  If  we  can  detect  their 
line  of  thought,  we  can  better  comprehend  their  actions. 
Let  us  be  unbiassed,  charitable,  and  watch  to  see  if  we 
cannot  find  that  which  we  would  assign  to  the  good.  As 
nearly  as  we  can,  let  us  look  from  their  standpoint,  as  | 
well  as  from  our  own.  It  may  be  that  we  shall  learn 
lessons  of  value  to  our  own  living.  Many  books  record 
dates  and  a  detailed  history  of  China.  My  letters  record 
little  else  than  my  own  experiences.  Because  I  honestly 
wish  to  be  a  friend  to  the  Chinese  and  to  gain  their  friend- 
ship, ways  have  been  bountifully  and  graciously  opened  to 
me  that  have  never  been  opened  before.  Not  long  ago  a 
lady  said  to  me,  "Mrs.  Conger,  how  can  you  receive  these 
Chinese  in  your  home  and  mingle  with  them  ?  I  hate  the 
Chinese."  I  as  earnestly  replied,  "Because  I  really  wish 
to  know  them.  I  like  the  Chinese."  This  very  thought 
has  opened  the  locked  doors  and  hearts,  and  has  per-   j 


THE  PORTRAIT  COMPLETED      291 

mitted  me  to  enter  where  no  other  foreign  lady  ever 
entered.  May  all  my  actions  and  words  be  so  guided 
by  the  Christ-spirit  that  they  may  lead  into  love  and  not 
into  hatred.  True,  all  do  not  have  the  same  desires  or  the 
same  treasure  accumulations.  Each  carries  his  own 
keys  to  his  treasures  and  they  do  not  fit  all  locks.  I  trust 
that  I  may  do  naught  to  disappoint  these  people,  who  now 
believe  in  my  friendship.  I  sometimes  feel  that  I  have 
touched  the  key-note  to  the  rhythm  of  their  real  hearts. 
The  articulations  of  the  heart  are  often  smothered  by  the 
rebuffs,  while  a  little  calm  attention,  sympathy,  or  ac- 
knowledgment reveal  tones  harmonious,  yet  quite  new  to 
the  listener. 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
April  9,  1904. 

DURING  the  process  of  painting  the  Empress  Dowa- 
ger's portrait  I  was  twice  summoned  by  Her  Majesty  to 
note  its  progress,  and  now  I  have  returned  from  a  most 
satisfactory  visit  at  the  Imperial  Palace.  The  portrait 
is  finished,  and  there  is  great  rejoicing  to-day  over  the 
event.  Miss  Carl,  the  artist,  has  been  working  upon  it 
for  many  weeks.  Thursday  Her  Majesty  sent  an  in- 
vitation to  the  wives  of  the  Ministers  and  Secretaries  of 
the  Diplomatic  Corps  to  " proceed  to  the  palace"  to  see 
the  portrait. 

The  Empress  Dowager  received  the  ladies  informally. 
She  was  seated  in  an  Imperial  chair  in  one  of  the  beautiful 
reception  rooms.  After  Her  Majesty  had  greeted  us  and 
spoken  many  cordial  words  to  each  lady,  we  were  invited 
to  see  the  portrait.     Before  we  left  the  reception  room, 


292  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Her  Majesty  returned  to  me  and  said  that  she  hoped  I 
would  be  pleased  with  the  portrait  in  which  I  had  mani- 
fested so  great  an  interest.  Her  Majesty  also  said  that 
she  intended  to  send  it  to  the  St.  Louis  Exposition  in 
America,  and  later  she  was  going  to  present  it  to  the 
United  States  Government.  I  expressed  my  great  de- 
light and  said  that  from  time  to  time  I  would  visit  its 
honored  place  and  with  renewed  delight  look  upon  a 
picture  of  Her  Majesty's  face,  form,  and  surroundings, 
the  original  of  which  I  had  so  many  times  been  permitted 
to  look  upon  with  true  joy. 

After  expressing  our  appreciation  of  the  audience  so 
graciously  given,  we  passed  from  Her  Majesty's  presence. 
We  were  carried  some  distance  in  covered  palace-chairs 
to  a  large  building  properly  lighted  for  painting.  Here 
were  the  portrait  and  the  artist.  Surely,  Her  Imperial 
Majesty  was  there  upon  her  throne  in  all  her  Oriental 
splendor!  Not  a  stroke  of  the  brush  but  told  its  story. 
Everything  in  form,  place,  and  color  had  its  significance. 
True  to  the  Chinese  idea  there  were  characters,  symbols, 
seals,  and  decorations.  All  spoke  a  silent,  but  positive 
language,  and  so  did  each  of  the  thousands  of  pearls,  large 
and  small,  and  each  of  the  other  precious  stones,  which 
stood  out  beautifully  before  me  in  their  richness.  But 
that  wh.ch  was  far  more  to  me  was  the  Imperial  woman 
sitting  there  in  her  strength  of  character.  As  I  gazed  at 
the  portrait  I  could  recall  a  sweet  tone  of  voice,  a  gentle 
clasp  of  hand,  a  cordial  smile  that  bespoke  a  welcome 
not  easy  for  any  nationality  to  surpass.  There  is  a 
chord  in  human  nature  when  played  upon  by  woman, 
that  woman  can  hear  and  appreciate.  I  do  not  uphold 
the  dark  bloodstains  in  China,  nor  elsewhere, —  I  deeply 


PRINCE    CHUN    WITH    THE    EMPEROR   PU    I 
ON    HIS    LEFT 


SENTIMENTS  OF   FRIENDSHIP      293 

lament  them;  but  we  should  not  fail  to  welcome  the 
little  streams  of  good  that  alone  will  wash  out  the  stains. 
Each  individual  must  watch  the  working  out  of  this  life's 
battle  from  the  standpoint  of  his  own  heights,  and  then 
act  his  part. 

I  trust  that  the  many  thousands  of  people  who  look 
upon  this  portrait  in  America  will  study  those  eyes, —  they 
are  Her  Majesty's;  will  study  the  expression  of  the  face, — 
it  is  Her  Majesty's;  will  study  the  pose  and  grace  of 
manner, —  they  are  Her  Majesty's;  will  study  the  mean- 
ing of  those  emblems  and  all  the  environment,  —  they 
are  Her  Majesty's,  and  are  true  to  China. 


pTo  a  Sister] 

Legation  Home,  Peking, 
April  16,  IQ04.. 

TO-DAY  Manchu  ladies  tiffined  with  us  in  our  Lega- 
tion home.  Our  large  table  smiled  a  glad  welcome  in  its 
dress  of  beautiful  flowers.  Missionary  ladies  ably  helped 
to  entertain  these  Princesses,  wives  of  high  officials,  and 
members  of  their  families  who  were  our  guests.  These 
ladies  are  bright  and  entertaining.  Before  we  were 
seated  I  expressed  good  wishes  for  their  Imperial  Majes- 
ties, for  China,  and  for  her  people.  As  soon  as  I  had 
finished  speaking,  a  bright,  educated  lady,  Mrs.  Yu,  with- 
out hesitation,  lifted  her  glass,  and  said: 

"May  the  great  ruler  of  America,  Minister  and  Mrs. 
Conger,  and  the  ladies  here  present  with  us,  have  every 
blessing.  May  their  lives  be  as  the  mountains  which 
never  decay,  and  their  happiness  as  broad  and  deep  as 
the  sea,  and  may  all  their  undertakings  prove  auspicious." 


294  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

(Interpreted  by  Miss  Porter.)  What  lady  could  have 
been  more  clever? 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  Chinese  character  is  always  at 
its  best.  It  is  dignified,  and  yet  cordial.  It  is  not  dis- 
turbed amid  unaccustomed  and  trying  circumstances. 
These  ladies  are  not  hard  to  entertain,  and,  as  is  generally 
supposed,  they  do  not  tlk  about  dress  and  follies.  The 
education  of  the  foreigner  and  the  education  of  the  Chinese 
are  along  different  lines.  If  we  are  able  to  get  even  a  slight 
clue  to  the  subjects  with  which  they  are  acquainted,  and 
begin  to  ask  questions  about  them,  their  faces  brighten, 
and  they  talk  fluently  and  intelligently. 

An  American  admiral  in  speaking  of  the  Chinese 
ladies  said  to  me,  "What  do  you  ladies  talk  about  —  dress 
and  jewels?"  Before  I  had  time  to  answer,  Mr.  Conger 
replied,  "Quite  the  contrary.  They  talk  about  the  Man- 
churian  troubles,  political  questions,  and  many  things 
pertaining  to  their  Government."  I  was  greatly  pleased, 
for  what  he  said  would  be  received  with  much  more 
weight  and  influence  than  any  answer  of  mine.  . 

As  I  wish  to  know  the  things  that  have  hitherto  been 
locked  from  me,  I  frequently  invite  different  Chinese 
ladies  to  my  home  and  ask  some  of  the  missionaries  to 
assist  me.  As  we  converse  I  find  that  we  have  many 
thoughts  and  ideas  in  common,  and  I  can  often  say  to 
them  that  we  have  customs  corresponding  to  theirs.  We 
celebrate,  worship,  give  thanks,  visit  cemeteries,  and 
decorate  the  graves  of  our  loved  ones;  we  rejoice  over 
birthdays  and  have  feast  days  with  thoughts  akin  to 
theirs.  Our  methods  of  expressing  worship,  grief,  joy, 
and  gratitude;  our  standards  of  right  and  wrong,  of 
rewards  and  punishments,  differ.     They  seem  pleased  to 


CORNERSTONE  OF  LEGATION      295 

learn  of  our  customs,  and  I  am  truly  glad  to  learn  of  theirs. 
I  often  tell  these  Chinese  ladies  that  I  recognize  that  our 
customs  of  etiquette  differ  in  form,  but  are  quite  alike  at 
heart.  And  I  ask  that  we  each  carry  out  our  own,  as  far 
as  we  can,  each  feeling  that  no  offence  is  intended,  for  we 
are  friends. 

My  helpers  are  ladies  of  the  American  missions,  with- 
out whose  assistance  I  should  be  almost  helpless  in 
accomplishing  what  I  am  trying  to  do.  The  Chinese  and 
American  ladies  have  already  learned  that  neither  is  so 
inferior  as  ignorance  would  make  them  appear.  We  have 
become  acquainted,  and  are  friends.  May  no  misunder- 
standing blight  this  growing  friendship  before  it  ripens  into 
a  rich  harvest.  Our  intercourse  is  more  frequent  as  the 
months  pass,  and  compliments  are  given  and  returned. 


[To  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
April  19,  1904.. 
THE  day  for  laying  the  cornerstone  of  the  Minister's 
future  home  in  the  American  Legation  in  Peking  has  just 
passed.     It  has  been  a  lovely  day  —  sunshine  without 
and  sunshine  within.     Americans  gathered  upon  Ameri- 
can soil  and  under  America's  Stars  and  Stripes  to  rejoice 
in  America's  own  way.     This  is  an  auspicious  day  in  our 
country's  forward  march.     She  has  this  day,  with  a  step 
onward  and  upward,  planted  her  banner  with  the  sister- 
hood of  great  nations  in  the  dignity  of  owning  her  home 
I  in  foreign  representation.     Our  people  at  home  cannot 
realize  what  this  signifies  in  the  sight  of  the  world,  or  what 
it  signifies  to  American  diplomats  who,  under  adverse 


296  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

circumstances,  are  striving  to  maintain  with  dignity  the 
honors  due  their  country.  May  the  merit  of  this  de- 
parture be  so  apparent  as  to  lead  our  Government  to  make 
greater  and  still  greater  departures  in  this  line. 

Mr.  Nealy,  the  architect  and  builder,  had  a  beautiful, 
heavy  silver  trowel  made  out  of  Chinese  silver  dollars  and 
invited  me  to  use  it  in  sealing  the  cornerstone.  The  trowel 
was  then  placed  in  an  exquisite  inlaid  Chinese  box  and 
presented  to  me  by  Mr.  Nealy.  It  is  a  real  treasure  and 
my  children  shall  see  it.  The  short  addresses  of  good 
cheer  given  by  Mr.  Nealy  and  your  father  you  shall  also 
see.  They  are  in  safe  keeping  with  many  other  valuable 
papers  which  we  are  saving  for  our  little  granddaughter 
Sarah. 

My  visits  with  the  Chinese  ladies  are  becoming  of 
more  and  more  value  to  me.  They  are  more  frequent, 
but  they  never  interfere  with  my  other  social  duties.  I 
am  learning  something  of  the  awful  sufferings  and  great 
losses  of  the  Chinese  during  the  reign  of  madness  in  1900. 
But  the  deepest  heart  sorrows  of  the  Chinese  no  one  can 
ever  know.  My  dear  child,  although  you  were  in  that 
awful  siege,  if  you  could  go  into  these  palace  homes  where 
I  am  permitted  to  go,  all  bitterness  would  flee  before 
tender  sympathy's  awakening  call.  I  do  not  approve  of 
all  that  I  see  in  their  home  life ;  but,  as  we  differ  in  opin- 
ion on  those  points,  they  cannot  approve  of  my  ideas. 
My  dear  parents  used  to  say  repeatedly,  "  Remember  that 
you  are  just  as  far  from  other  people  as  they  are  from 
you."  I  find  much  that  I  admire  and  much  that  I  call 
good  in  the  Chinese  character.  If  the  spirit  of  good  is 
there,  it  does  not  matter  by  what  name  man  calls  it,  it  will 
do  its  good  work. 


IMPERIAL  INDUSTRIAL   SCHOOL    297 

"The  Woman's  Winter  Refuge"  is  prospering  through 
the  workings  of  unselfish  love.  The  little  books  of  reports 
sent  upon  their  message  last  July  did  their  good  work. 
Checks,  drafts,  and  post-office  orders  have  been  coming, 
coming,  coming  to  us;  and  not  only  money  has  been 
coming,  but  some  of  the  richest,  most  encouraging  words 
that  man  ever  uttered.  They  are  surely  "free-will  offer- 
ings." Through  these  responses  we  have  purchased  our 
home  and  have  money  in  the  bank. 

I  have  become  much  interested  in  the  Imperial  In- 
dustrial School.  It  is  an  institution  that  I  have  been  visit- 
ing alone  and  with  friends  from  its  beginning.  Its  growth 
has  been  wonderful.  A  wealthy  Chinese  conceived  the 
idea  of  helping  his  poverty-stricken  street  people,  especi- 
ally young  boys.  He  has  many  under  his  supervision, 
whom  he  entirely  supports  while  they  are  being  taught. 
His  desire  was  to  make  them  self-supporting  by  instruct- 
ing them  in  some  line  of  useful  work.  His  pathway  has 
not  been  free  from  thorns,  but  he  has  struggled  through 
these  thorny  places,  and  the  school  has  grown  into  a 
prosperous  enterprise.  It  has  many  lines  of  industries 
and  hundreds  of  workers. 

I  love  to  visit  the  many  different  departments  of  this 
school  and  watch  the  gentle  touch  of  these  quiet,  attentive 
workers.  In  the  cloisonne  rooms  small  boys  are  sitting 
quietly  filling  the  many  little  cells  with  colors.  They  go 
right  on  with  their  work  as  though  you  were  elsewhere. 
Everything  is  done  by  hand  and  hand  machinery.  I  ob- 
tained samples  of  the  six  different  processes  necessary 
to  bring  the  cloisonne  to  its  beautiful  finish.  They  make 
wonderful  pieces  both  of  cloisonne  and  enamel.  This 
institution  has  upon  its  premises  a  large  shop,  well  filled 


298  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

with  this  beautiful  work.  The  school  also  has  furniture 
and  cart  factories.  What  is  especially  interesting  to  me 
is  the  rug  factory.  It  is  an  enterprise  in  itself.  I  never 
tire  of  watching  these  men  and  boys  filling  in  the  designs 
with  quiet  accuracy.  I  noticed  that  there  was  no  pattern 
before  them  and  questioned  the  overseer,  "Where  is  their 
pattern?"  Touching  his  head  he  said,  "Here  it  is,  in 
the  man's  and  child's  mind.  They  take  the  pattern  and 
study  it  —  learn  it,  then  reproduce  it  in  the  rug." 

I  looked  with  keener  interest  at  those  men  and  boys. 
Here  is  another  indication  of  their  economy  and  memory. 
They  are  not  prodigal  of  their  time  by  continually  refer- 
ring to  the  pattern;  instead,  they  take  it  as  a  whole  and 
work  right  on.  Why  not?  I  said  no  more,  but  I  stud- 
ied that  unlimited  thought  that  had  been  given  to  me. 
We,  in  our  embroidery,  work  from  pattern,  study  one  or 
two  stitches,  or  a  part,  reproduce  what  we  have  seen,  and 
then  go  back  to  our  pattern,  while  the  Chinese  take  the 
pattern  as  a  whole.  Let  us  ponder  this  thought.  There 
is  much  in  it  for  us  all.  I  have  since  noticed  that  this  is 
not  a  new,  nor  an  unusual,  idea  to  the  Chinese.  While 
they  do  not  limit  their  time  in  bringing  out  the  best  in 
their  work,  they  do  economize  their  time. 

The  foreigner  sees  much  of  the  sober  or  stolid  side 
of  the  Chinese  character,  but  there  is  a  sparkling  mirth 
that  comes  forth  in  joyousness  when  you  know  them  and 
call  it  out.  The  Chinese  are  placing  telephones  in 
their  homes.  Yesterday  several  of  the  ladies  were  visit- 
ing me.  With  keenest  enjoyment  they  told  some  things 
which  they  learn  through  the  telephone,  but  I  will  not 
tell  their  secrets.  These  ladies  are  quietly  but  surely 
learning  many  things.     I  find  that  they  are  interested 


RUSSO-JAPANESE  WAR  299 

in  the  affairs  of  their  own  country  and  also  in  the  affairs 
of  other  countries.  They  study  the  edicts  and  read 
their  newspapers.  At  times  I  refer  to  items  and  events 
to  bring  out  their  ideas  and  I  find  that  they  have  much 
information  to  give.  My  thought  of  these  people  is 
intensified  as  I  get  nearer  to  them. 

The  Russo-Japanese  War  is  a  terrible  sacrifice.  We 
are  so  near  that  we  can  almost  hear  the  awful  bombard- 
ing, feel  the  earth  quiver,  and  see  the  ocean  stained  with 
blood.  Think  of  it,  two  nations  warring  upon  another 
nation's  domain!  The  world  looks  on  in  gasping  sur- 
prise. The  Japanese  are  working  in  unison.  Japan 
has  clearly  planned  her  work  and  executes  fearlessly. 
History  records  nothing  like  it.  May  this  river  of  blood 
soon  cease  to  flow! 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
May  2,  igoj.. 

SEVERAL  days  ago  large  red  Chinese  envelopes  con- 
taining invitations  issued  by  Dowager  Princess  K'e  were 
received  by  Mrs.  Headland,  your  Aunt  Vinnie,  Miss 
Campbell,  Mrs.  Edward  Lowry,  your  cousin  Lavinia, 
and  myself  to  witness  the  presentation  of  the  gifts  intended 
for  her  youngest  son's  bride.  This  celebration  was  to 
be  held  the  day  before  she  was  married. 

Two  months  ago  the  Dowager  Princess  gave  me  a 
verbal  invitation  to  the  festivities  preceding  the  mar- 
riage. We  were  greatly  delighted  with  this  privilege  and 
honor  extended  for  the  first  time  to  foreign  ladies.  None 
of  us  had  the  least  conception  what  we  should  be  per- 


300  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

mitted  to  see.  We  knew,  however,  that  we  should  not 
see  the  bride  or  groom,  nor  any  part  of  the  real  marriage 
ceremony.  This  is  witnessed  only  by  those  members 
of  the  family  who  were  born  under  the  signs  of  the  Zo- 
diac harmonious  with  those  of  the  bride  and  groom. 

As  we  entered  the  Dowager  Princess'  walled  palace, 
with  its  many  gates,  courts,  and  buildings,  we  met  three 
Princesses'  carts  and  their  many  outriders  just  leaving. 
What  a  picture  they  made!  Red  carts,  outriders  in  uni- 
form, and  horses  gayly  saddled !  The  brilliancy  and  dig- 
nity of  these  guests  made  us  realize  in  part  the  importance 
of  the  occasion.  The  ladies  of  the  household  in  beauti- 
ful embroidered  gowns,  exquisite  in  colorings,  delicately 
painted  faces,  and  elaborate,  festive  head  ornaments, 
came  out  from  the  large  open  door  and  down  the  wide 
stone  steps,  to  meet  us  near  the  centre  of  a  paved  court, 
which  was  beautifully  decorated  in  red,  the  wedding 
color.  What  a  picture!  Would  that  I  could  portray  to 
you  the  beauty,  the  color,  the  harmony,  the  very  joy  of 
that  picture. 

The  grace,  quiet  dignity,  and  cordial  welcome  of  these 
highbred  Chinese  ladies  flowed  from  culture's  fountain. 
After  they  greeted  us  we  were  escorted  into  a  large  re- 
ception room,  presented  to  many  guests,  and  tea  was 
served.  Soon  we  heard  music  approaching.  All  arose 
and  were  invited  to  take  seats  upon  the  veranda  facing 
the  gateway  opening  into  a  court  where  we  could  see  an 
elaborate  display  of  beautiful  Chinese  gifts  coming  to  the 
new  home  of  the  bride.  First  came  the  musicians  with 
their  large  gilded  drums,  horns  of  many  kinds,  cymbals, 
and  other  instruments.  From  the  time  they  entered  un- 
til all  was  finished,  they  played  weird  strains.     The  court 


SPRIGS    OF    PEACH    BLOOM   PAINTED    BY 
THE  EMPRESS  DOWAGER 

With  the  date,  and   a  short  poem  written  by  a  member  of  the  College 
of  Inscriptions.    The  seal  on  top  is  that  of  her  majesty 


RICH   WEDDING  GIFTS  301 

began  to  fill.  On  stands  with  red  embroideries  and 
decorated  trays  were  rich  gifts  almost  without  number. 
There  were  over  one  hundred  of  these  stands.  They 
kept  coming,  coming,  coming,  and  with  great  precision 
each  stand  was  put  in  what  seemed  to  be  its  appointed 
place.  Guests  kept  arriving  and  the  Princesses  always 
went  down  into  the  court  to  meet  them.  The  saluta- 
tion in  meeting  their  guests  was  most  interesting.  Each 
lady  steps  into  her  place  and  at  the  proper  moment 
greets  the  guest.  Then  in  order  they  ascend  the  steps; 
the  guests  taking  the  lead.  We  sat  where  we  could  see 
each  party  as  it  entered  and  was  received.  There  was 
no  commotion,  as  each  one  knew  her  place,  and  seemed 
happy  in  it.  This  idea  of  place  is  taught  them  from  their 
early  childhood.  A  Chinese  lady  guest  explained  to  us 
the  rank,  decorations,  and  their  meaning. 

The  court  filled  fuller  and  fuller  with  these  gifts.  I 
could  not  believe  what  I  saw  before  me.  It  all  seemed 
an  extravagant  dream-picture.  After  the  court  was 
filled,  the  carriers  began  to  take  into  this  bride's  new 
home  beautifully  carved  tables,  large  and  small,  chairs, 
stools,  cabinets,  wardrobes,  and  Wang  furniture.  After 
these  articles  were  placed,  then  began  the  task  of  carry- 
ing these  court  gifts  into  the  house  and  arranging  them. 
We  were  then  invited  to  a  sumptuous  feast  that  was 
purely  Chinese.  After  this  feast  we  were  asked  to  visit 
the  new  home.  We  again  entered  the  court,  now  empty, 
but  did  not  hasten  to  enter  the  home.  We  studied  the 
designs  of  the  decorations  on  this  building.  The  entire 
front  was  bedecked  with  wedding  symbols.  Great 
papier-m&che  dragons  were  twined  about  the  large  teak 
columns  on  either  side  of  the  centre  doorway.     The  heads 


3o2  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

and  claws  of  these  dragons  reached  out  as  if  to  protect 
the  entrance.  The  rooms  were  bare  until  these  gifts 
were  taken  into  them.  We  entered,  and  such  a  surprise 
awaited  us.  Perfect  order  and  composure  greeted  our 
eyes.  It  looked  as  though  everything  had  known  its  place 
and  had  at  once  stepped  into  it. 

The  Dowager  Princess  opened  box  after  box  of  val- 
uable jewels  and  showed  them  to  us.  The  pearls  and 
precious  stones  were  exquisite  in  their  Oriental  arrange- 
ment. We  were  taken  from  room  to  room.  While  we 
admired  and  were  greatly  pleased,  we  were  continually 
on  our  guard  not  to  be  obtrusive  nor  to  offend  in  the  least, 
and  we  seemed  to  avoid  the  stumbling-blocks.  After 
expressing  our  gratitude  to  the  Dowager  Princess  and  the 
receiving  ladies,  we  took  our  departure. 

As  we  left  the  Chinese  palace  with  its  Oriental  build- 
ings and  colorings,  we  were  escorted  through  another 
large  court,  where  the  bride's  chair  was  standing  in  all 
of  its  red  trappings,  embroideries  of  phoenixes,  dragons, 
flowers,  and  good-luck  and  good-wish  characters.  On 
the  heavy  veil  of  the  bride,  on  wedding  gifts  and  decora- 
tions, two  "love  characters"  are  united  with  a  bar,  and 
this  union  signifies  two  loves  united.  The  same  double 
characters  are  also  used  for  birthday^.  There  were 
many  beautiful  glass  lanterns  hanging  on  large  red  racks. 
All  the  things  in  this  court  were  waiting  for  the  midnight 
hour  to  come  that  they  might  play  their  part  in  escorting 
the  bride  to  her  future  home. 

We  passed  on  and  out  of  this  dreamland  where  we 
had  been  so  cordially  received  and  entertained,  entered 
our  chairs  and  carts,  and  our  mounted  mafoos,  chair- 
bearers,  carters,  and  other  attendants  started  us  home- 


a  -fi  .#9   i 

"-if 

f   *    f  Jk 
-ft     ^   v 
ft     fc     K 


ALSO    PAINTED    BY    THE    EMPRESS    DOWAGER 
WITH    POEM   AND    DATE 


THE   LIFE  OF  THE   PEOPLE       303 

ward.  Curtained  in  my  chair  alone  during  the  hour's 
journey  to  the  Legation,  I  had  time  and  opportunity  to 
recall  many  of  the  events  of  the  past  year.  They  came 
thick  and  fast  and  were  aglow  with  the  light  of  sincere 
gratitude.  I  have  accomplished  much  of  my  heart's 
great  desire  to  know  the  Chinese  ladies  in  their  homes;  to 
get  nearer  to  them  and  learn  of  them  and  perhaps  to  let 
them  learn  a  little  of  the  heart  and  ways  of  a  foreign  lady. 
What  I  have  seen  and  learned,  and  the  deep  impressions 
made  upon  my  thought,  volumes  could  not  relate. 
When  I  first  came  to  China  everything  was  wildly  new 
and  foreign  to  my  comprehension.  I  had  only  mer- 
chants, servants,  and  the  coolie  classes  with  whom  to 
deal.  I  was  determined  to  study  them  and  find  the  good 
in  their  natures  if  I  could.  I  did  find  it,  and  this  helped 
me  to  find  greater  things.  I  became  very  fond  of  my 
servants,  and  we  were  friends.  We  continue  to  be  friends, 
and  I  consider  them  to  be  the  best  of  servants.  I  ap- 
preciate the  little  surprises  they  have  for  us  from  time 
to  time  and  let  them  know  that  I  do.  Beneath  the  ap- 
parently blank  countenances  I  can  detect  a  little  sparkle 
of  joy,  and  sometimes  I  can  detect  the  shadows  of  cloud- 
thoughts.  As  a  class  they  are  very  secretive,  and  con- 
ceal their  inmost  thoughts  from  me,  as  I  conceal  mine  from 
them.  Human  nature  is  about  the  same  everywhere; 
its  traits  differ  in  degree,  owing  to  education  and  cir- 
cumstances. 

From  my  first  coming  into  this  walled  and  locked 
country,  I  greatly  desired  to  see  and  know  about  the  life 
of  this  people,  and  little  by  little  this  life  has  been  revealed 
to  me.  Quietly,  continuously,  earnestly,  with  my  heart 
in  my  efforts,  I  have  gone  right  on,  striving  to  give  as 


304  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

well  as  to  receive.  At  each  step  my  interest,  trust,  and 
friendship  increase.  To  know  the  men  only,  exclusive 
of  the  women,  we  know  not  one  half  of  a  home  or  of  a 
nation,  because  we  do  not  see  the  feminine  influences,  nor 
the  influence  of  the  two  combined.  The  man  has  his 
accomplishments,  the  woman  has  hers,  and  the  two  to- 
gether make  up  the  grand  whole. 

Mrs.  Headland  is  an  accepted  physician  and  a  beloved 
friend  of  many  of  the  higher  Chinese  families;  and  her 
attractive  appearance,  winning  ways,  good  work,  good 
judgment,  and  sincere  friendship  have  won  for  her  a  warm 
place  in  the  homes  of  many  of  the  high  officials.  Through 
her  innate  tact,  broad  thought,  and  great  love  for  the  good 
she  may  do,  I  have  been  able  to  come  into  personal  touch 
with  many  of  these  Chinese  ladies.  I  sought  the  oppor- 
tunity for  my  first  call  upon  Chinese  ladies  by  saying  to 
His  Excellency  Li  Hung  Chang  that,  if  agreeable  to  him 
and  his  family,  I  should  be  pleased  to  call  and  pay  my 
respects.  This  was  in  1899.  The  first  audience  given 
by  Her  Imperial  Majesty  to  the  seven  ladies  of  the  Diplo- 
matic Corps  was  sought  and  urged  by  the  foreign  Ministers. 
After  the  troubles  of  1900  and  the  return  of  the  Court,  Her 
Majesty  assumed  a  different  attitude,  and,  of  her  own 
accord,  issued  many  invitations  for  audiences,  and  these 
invitations  were  accepted.  Then  followed  my  tiffin  to 
the  Court  Princesses  and  their  tiffin  in  return.  This 
opened  the  way  for  other  Princesses  and  wives  of  high 
officials  to  call,  receive  calls,  to  entertain,  and  be  enter- 
tained. In  many  cases  arrangements  were  made  through 
our  mutual  friend,  Mrs.  Headland.  Sometimes  the 
officials  themselves  would  arrange  for  the  visits  of  then- 
wives  and  families.     Children  often  came,  even  boys  fif- 


THE  FONDNESS   FOR  CHILDREN    305 

teen  years  of  age.  The  children  adhere  to  rules  of 
etiquette,  and  are  attractive  in  their  child  manners,  which 
are  void  of  shyness,  and  yet  are  obedient. 

So  step  by  step,  I  am  gaining  my  heart's  desire;  I 
am  learning  to  know  and  to  love  these  Chinese  ladies; 
I  am  gaining  a  fuller  view  of  life. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  3,  1904.. 

TO-DAY  is  our  darling  Sarah's  birthday.  Richest  con- 
gratulations go  to  you  on  love's  wings  from  parents  and 
grandparents.     Our  little  Sarah  is  one  year  old  to-day! 

A  very  sweet  thing  happened  this  morning,  and  you 
will  appreciate  it.  Our  first  amah,  your  amah,  never 
forgets  "Miss  Laura."  If  she  sees  anything  that  is 
especially  associated  with  you,  she  will  put  her  hand  upon 
it  tenderly  and  say,  "Miss  Laura  —  no  can  see."  This 
morning  she  came  to  me  with  a  beautiful  solid  silver  mug 
deeply  hammered  in  dragon  design;  the  body  of  a  dragon 
forms  the  handle,  and  the  'head  looks  over  into  the  mug, 
as  if  after  water.  On  one  side  of  this  cup  is  a  polished 
place  bearing  the  word  "Sarah"  engraved  upon  it.  The 
mug  is  a  real  beauty.  Amah  handed  it  to  me  and  said, 
"Miss  Laura's  baby."  I  said,  "Why,  Amah!  You  sent 
Miss  Laura's  baby  a  beautiful  present  before."  She 
replied,  "Yes,  but  Miss  Laura's  baby  one  year  old." 
Later  I  will  send  it  to  you.  I  knew  nothing  about  it.  All 
by  herself  she  got  the  "Silver  man"  to  make  it,  then  went 
to  Miss  Campbell  to  write  "Sarah" — and  here  it  is  on 
the  cup  in  Maurine's  own  writing. 


3o6  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Our  baby  Sarah  has  received  many  rich  and  beautiful 
gifts  from  Her  Imperial  Majesty,  from  the  families  of 
Chinese  officials  of  all  grades,  from  our  friends  in  Peking 
both  Chinese  and  foreign,  and  from  the  many  servants  of 
our  household.  Last  night  there  came  to  me  to  forward 
to  the  little  granddaughter  a  complete  set  of  Chinese 
clothes  in  a  lovely  silk  box.  This  gift  came  with  touching 
pathos.  In  the  past  two  years  I  have  formed  highly 
prized  friendships  with  the  Chinese  ladies.  Among 
these  ladies  was  the  Grand  Secretary  Wang  Wen  Shao's 
beautiful,  accomplished  young  wife.  His  Excellency 
Wang  Wen  Shao  is  an  aged  man  of  high  rank.  He  is 
Vice-President  of  the  Wai  Wu  Pu,  or  Foreign  Office,  stands 
next  to  Prince  Ch'ing  in  rank,  and  is  general  director  of 
the  Board  of  Finance.  His  wife  and  Mrs.  Kao,  his 
granddaughter,  another  dear  Chinese  friend  of  mine, 
were  about  the  same  age  and  great  friends.  They  were 
both  lovable,  attractive,  educated  ladies,  and  they  mani- 
fested sincerity  and  depth  of  feeling.  These  two  ladies 
conceived  the  idea  of  doing  something  for  my  baby  grand- 
daughter. Days  passed  into  weeks  and  I  did  not  see 
them  and  my  life  was  so  full  that  I  did  not  make  inquiries 
about  them.  On  Thanksgiving  day  I  learned  through 
Mrs.  Headland  that  Mrs.  Wang  Wen  Shao  had  taken  ill 
and  died.  Mrs.  Kao  went  to  Mrs.  Headland  to  tell 
her  of  their  sorrow  and  asked  if  she  would  go  with  her  to 
bear  the  sad  news  to  me.  The  day  was  set;  she  and  His 
Excellency's  daughter-in-law  came  and  brought  the 
message  that  the  dear  departed  one  had  left  for  me. 
Many  things  were  said  of  her  beautiful  character.  Their 
call  was  not  particularly  a  sad  one,  for  we  talked  of  the 
good  qualities  of  their  dear  one  and  of  the  happy  hours 


Grand  Secretary  Wang  Wen  Shao 

His  Excellency  Wang  Kai-kah,  Commissioner  to  St.  Louis  Exposition,  1904 

C.  C.  Wang,  Legation  Clerk,  Now  a  Student  in  the  United  States 


A   HOUSE  OF  MOURNING  307 

that  we  had  passed  together.  They  told  me  of  her  last 
message,  as  she  called  for  a  group  photograph  taken  after 
a  large  tiffin  at  our  home.  Their  quiet  manners,  sweet 
smiles,  and  tender  words  were  touching. 

I  asked  if  I  might  send  flowers.  When  my  request 
was  granted,  I  asked  which  would  be  more  acceptable, 
the  paper  or  the  fresh  ones.  The  reply  was  that  paper 
flowers  were  more  in  their  line  of  thought,  as  they  could 
keep  them  until  the  day  of  burial,  then  burn  them.  I 
will  tell  you  some  day  of  this  custom. 

We  drank  our  tea  together  and  had  our  heart  talks; 
then  I  asked  when  we  might  pay  our  respects  to  the 
memory  of  her  who  had  a  warm  place  in  our  affections. 

I  had  eight  papier-m&che  pots  on  papier-m&che  stands 
made  and  filled  with  paper  plants  all  in  blossom.  These 
were  beautiful  and  almost  perfect  reproductions  of 
painted  porcelain  pots,  wooden  standards,  and  living 
plants  in  fine  foliage  and  blossom.  There  were  four 
varieties  and  two  of  each.  They  were  brought  to  me  for 
my  inspection  after  they  were  finished,  then  I  sent  them 
to  the  house  of  mourning.  The  next  day  we  went  to  pay 
our  respects.  Your  Aunt  Vinnie  and  I  went  in  chairs, 
the  others  in  carts.  We  were  received  most  kindly  and 
accompanied  through  courts  until  we  reached  the  one 
filled  with  the  many  gifts  of  banners,  flowers,  fruits,  and 
emblems  of  many  kinds.  Above  an  altar  upon  which 
incense  was  burning  was  an  excellent  portrait  of  Mrs. 
Wang  Wen  Shao;  before  this  portrait  we  bowed.  The 
Chinese  kneel  on  a  cushion  and  strike  their  heads  three 
times  upon  the  floor.  Behind  her  portrait  and  heavy 
curtains  were  the  casket  and  the  family  mourners.  We 
were  asked  if  we  would  like  to  enter  that  sacred  room. 


308  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

I  asked  in  reply  if  other  Chinese  besides  their  family  and 
relatives  were  permitted  to  enter.  Upon  being  told  that 
they  were  not,  I  thanked  them  most  sincerely  and  said 
that  as  the  rite  was  for  her  nearest  and  dearest,  we  would 
not  enter.  The  little  daughter,  a  darling,  came  out  where 
we  were  and  courtesied  to  us  all,  each  in  turn.  She  then 
returned  to  me  and  I  placed  my  arms  about  her  tenderly. 
Kisses  were  for  her  sweet,  upturned  face,  but  the  Chinese 
never  kiss,  hence  my  sympathy  and  love  were  shown  in 
other  ways.  This  little  lady  was  dressed  in  the  mourner's 
sack  cloth.  We  remained  only  a  short  time;  then,  again 
bowing,  we  took  our  departure  and  were  escorted  to  a 
" feast"  room.  Everything  upon  the  table  had  a  beautiful 
meaning  back  of  it.  The  little  girl  sat  between  Mrs. 
Headland  and  me  and  served  us  with  the  different  kinds 
of  food  in  a  most  gracious  manner.  On  noticing  that  she 
did  not  partake  of  the  food,  I  said,  "You  are  not  eating." 
She  looked  up  with  her  big  eyes  and  sweet  expression  and 
said,  "I  cannot  eat."  I  at  once  replied,  "You  are  right, 
and  neither  do  I  care  to  eat."  There  were  many  relatives 
there,  and  each  showed  us  respect  and  consideration.  I 
learned  a  valuable  lesson  that  day. 

Weeks  passed  away,  and  I  had  not  seen  the  dear  little 
girl  or  any  of  the  family  until  last  night,  when  your  father 
gave  a  dinner  to  some  of  the  highest  Chinese  officials. 
His  Excellency  Wang  Wen  Shao  was  among  the  guests. 
Our  boy  Wang  brought  me  the  beautiful  silk  box  which 
I  send  to  you  for  Sarah,  with  this  message  from  His  Ex- 
cellency: "My  wife  had  planned  to  make  a  suit  of  clothes 
for  your  granddaughter  and  had  begun  the  garments 
before  her  sickness,  but  left  them  unfinished.  I  have 
had  them  completed,  and  I  bring  them  myself  as  a  humble 


HAPPY   FAMILY   RELATIONS       309 

gift  in  her  memory."  His  Excellency  thanked  me  very 
kindly  for  the  plants  and  for  our  visit  to  their  home. 
Knowing  this  dear  lady  and  her  gentle,  yet  bright  char- 
acter and  her  winning  ways,  and  knowing  also  what  is 
said  by  foreigners  to  be  the  relation  of  Chinese  husband 
and  wife,  I  consider  this  a  touching,  pathetic  incident. 
I  opened  the  box  and  tenderly  handled  each  lovely  gar- 
ment, then  replaced  them.  After  dinner  we  ladies  were 
in  the  drawing-room  ready  to  receive  the  gentlemen.  I 
then  thanked  His  Excellency  for  the  beautiful  gift  to  our 
granddaughter  and  tried  to  express  my  appreciation  of 
the  loving  thought.  It  is  said  that  the  Chinese  lack  feel- 
ing, but  I  do  not  find  this  to  be  true. 

Dear  Laura,  as  your  little  one  grows  older,  teach  her 
the  value  of  each  of  these  many  gifts  so  kindly  sent  to  her 
from  far-away  China.  Do  not  let  the  great  number  of 
them  lessen  their  value.  Each  is  as  rich  in  its  meaning 
as  though  it  were  the  only  one. 


[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  20,  1904.. 
ONE  of  the  most  beautiful  things  that  I  have  discov- 
ered in  China  —  I  say  " discovered"  because  no  other 
word  expresses  it  —  is  the  great,  manifested  love  of 
children  for  their  parents.  I  deem  it  a  kindred  of  the 
Christ-thought.  You  must  enter  their  homes  and  wit- 
ness and  participate  in  their  festivities,  family  gather- 
ings, and  quiet  home  circles  to  realize  3ven  to  a  slight 
extent  the  respect,  tenderness,  honor,  and  affection  the 
Chinese  parents  receive.    My  greatest  interest  has  been 


3io  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

to  learn  about  the  Chinese  mother,  daughter,  sister,  and 
wife  for  the  reason  that  so  little  is  known  of  them  by  the 
outside  world.  These  homes  have  been  locked,  barred, 
and  screened  from  the  foreigner. 

We  have  exchanged  calls  and  "feasts"  with  Mrs. 
Heng  and  her  attractive  family  and  have  become  ac- 
quainted with  them.  Mrs.  Heng  is  a  widow.  Her 
sixtieth  birthday  was  celebrated  most  elaborately  by  her 
children,  and  we  were  invited  to  attend  and  participate 
in  these  honors,  a  favor  we  highly  respected  and  appre- 
ciated. For  two  blocks  each  way  from  the  palace  en- 
trance, the  street  on  either  side  was  closely  lined  with 
chairs,  carts,  horses,  and  attendants.  Way  was  made 
for  our  chairs  to  pass,  and  we  went  on  and  into  the  second 
court  of  the  large  compound.  Here  we  were  received 
and  escorted  through  other  courts,  and  into  the  presence 
of  Lady  Heng  and  her  daughters;  then  into  the  brilliant 
gathering  of  the  many  relatives  and  friends.  The  ladies 
were  all  dressed  in  their  extravagantly  beautiful  robes 
and  jewelled  ornaments  for  hair  and  person.  With 
graces  hard  to  surpass,  we  were  cordially  welcomed. 
Many  were  presented  to  us,  and,  after  tea-serving,  we  were 
escorted  to  a  large  veranda.  The  seats  were  cushioned 
with  the  birthday  colors  and  designs.  This  veranda 
overlooked  a  very  large  p'eng  court,  enclosed  with  painted 
glass  bearing  the  birthday  emblems  and  colors;  hang- 
ings of  elegant  birthday  embroideries  adorned  the  sides; 
the  posts  of  the  court  were  also  adorned.  In  the  accu- 
racy of  the  Chinese  idea  of  place  and  significance,  were 
beautiful  lanterns  bedecked  with  jewels,  tassels,  and  bright 
colors  in  keeping  with  the  Chinese  ladies  who  looked 
upon  them.     In  front  of  this  veranda,  and  across  the 


A   SOCIAL  FUNCTION  311 

court,  was  one  of  the  most  brilliantly  and  richly  dressed 
stages  that  I  ever  beheld  at  any  Chinese  theatre.  The 
music  and  acting  were  full  of  life;  all  showed  the  spirit 
of  rejoicing.  The  court  was  filled  with  square  polished 
tables  at  each  of  which  were  four  cushioned  stools. 
Gentlemen,  relatives  and  friends  of  the  family,  were 
seated  at  these  tables  drinking  tea,  partaking  of  other 
refreshments,  and  happily  talking.  The  sons  and  Chi- 
nese gentlemen  whom  we  knew  came  to  us  and  with  ex- 
tended hand  greeted  us.  While  the  Chinese  ladies  and 
gentlemen  do  not  mingle  socially,  they  attend  these  fes- 
tivities apart.  The  Chinese  ladies  occupied  the  veranda, 
the  gentlemen  the  court  below.  Each  gentleman  was  in 
his  official  robe,  beads,  and  hat.  Guests  kept  coming 
and  going,  but  the  court  was  full  all  the  while.  The 
picture  was  a  fairy  one.  I  could  scarcely  believe  what 
I  saw.  The  people  and  their  surroundings  were  in  keep- 
ing and  a  quiet  dignity  governed  them,  yet  there  was  a 
living  activity  of  joy  in  this  dignity. 

While  we  were  observing  and  listening,  the  coming 
of  Her  Majesty's  gift  was  announced.  All  arose  as  it 
passed  through  the  court  and  into  a  special  place  of 
honor  prepared  for  it.  In  their  accustomed  way  Lady 
Heng,  her  family,  and  the  Chinese  guests  paid  their 
respects  to  Their  Imperial  Majesties  through  this  gift; 
then  we  entered  and,  with  a  courteous  bow,  looked  upon 
these  handsomely  mounted,  hanging  characters  of  good 
wishes  written  by  Her  Majesty's  "own  hand  and  brush." 
I  would  say  right  here  that  I  have  not  visited  one  of  these 
Manchu  or  Chinese  homes  where  Their  Majesties'  good 
wishes  have  not  entered.  "Long  Life,"  "Happiness," 
"Peace,"   "Prosperity,"   are   not  idle   characters,   they 


312  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

contain  a  living  meaning.  Each  gift  has  its  own  sig- 
nificance. The  Decoration  of  the  Double  Dragon,  the 
sceptre,  and  the  short  yellow  coat  are  the  highest  of  all 
the  gifts  that  Their  Majesties  bestow.  It  is  a  prevailing 
custom  among  the  Chinese  to  express  their  remembrance 
of  one  another  and  of  their  friends  through  simple  or 
valuable  gifts,  each  of  which  is  rich  in  wishes,  whether 
or  not  in  intrinsic  value. 

After  sitting  for  a  time  in  the  midst  of  these  gorgeous 
scenes,  striving  all  the  while  to  obtain  an  accurate,  indeli- 
ble impression  of  the  whole,  we  were  graciously  led  away 
to  a  " feast."  On  our  return  we  remained  but  a  short 
time.  We  expressed  our  appreciation  and  said  our 
good-byes  amid  many  urgent  invitations  to  remain  during 
the  evening.  We  then  passed  out  into  the  courts  with 
their  soft,  many-colored  lights,  and  here  our  tingshi 
met  us  with  our  large  official  lanterns. 

We  never  go  out  and  remain  until  night  approaches 
but  these  lighted  balloons  come  to  cheer  us  safely  through 
the  dimly  lighted  streets.  If  we  are  caught  away  from 
home  in  a  storm  while  making  a  call  or  taking  a  walk, 
our  faithful  servants  find  us  with  rubbers,  umbrellas, 
and  wraps.  They  watch  and  attend  to  these  duties 
without  one  word  from  us.  We  go  empty-handed  and 
they  look  after  our  meals.  We  do  not  have  to  think, 
"We  must  get  home  before  dark,  as  we  have  no  lantern"; 
or  "We  must  hasten  home  —  a  rain  threatens,  and  we 
have  no  umbrella  or  rubbers."  We  know  that  they  will 
be  waiting  for  us  at  the  door. 

I  am  going  to  tell  you  about  a  Prince  who  called 
recently,  Prince  Pii  Lun,  who  ranks  near  the  Throne. 
When  calling  upon  your  father  he  asked  if  his  wife  might 


PRINCE   PIJ   LUN   AND   FAMILY    313 

call,  and  requested  that  only  your  father  and  Mr.  Wil- 
liams be  present.  It  was  my  desire  to  talk  with  this 
Princess,  and  as  I  must  have  an  interpreter,  I  invited 
Mrs.  Headland  to  come  and  assist  me.  About  the  stated 
hour  for  the  Princess'  coming,  the  Prince  came  in  an 
official  cart.  Shortly  after,  his  wife  entered  the  court 
in  a  red  princess's  chair.  This  was  her  first  visit  to  a 
foreign  home.  The  gentlemen  had  their  conversation 
and  the  ladies  theirs.  We  soon  passed  to  the  dining- 
room  and  enjoyed  our  refreshments  together.  After 
leaving  the  table,  the  ladies  withdrew  to  the  library  and 
left  the  drawing-room  for  the  gentlemen;  I  hope  their 
visit  was  as  satisfactory  as  ours. 

Princess  Pu  Lun  is  beautiful  in  voice,  conversation, 
manner,  face,  apparel,  and  ornaments.  We  wished  to 
know  her  better.  A  return  call  was  arranged,  and  the 
day  was  full  of  quiet  joy.  Prince  Pu  Lun  received  us 
with  his  charming  Princess.  We  sat  at  table  together, 
and,  with  deference  to  each  other,  they  answered  our 
questions.  We  recognized  the  distinction  they  made. 
Their  attitude  toward  each  other  as  husband  and  wife 
and  toward  their  guests  was  beautiful.  We  were  shown 
through  attractive  apartments  which  vied  in  daintiness 
and  elegance  with  the  Princess  who  entered  them. 

I  said  that  we  were  fond  of  children  and  asked  if  we 
might  be  permitted  to  see  their  little  ones.  Two  bright 
little  boys  entered.  Their  manners  were  polite  and  full 
of  grace.  I  asked  if  we  might  see  the  baby,  and  I  really 
held  in  my  arms  that  dear  baby  prince.  He  looked 
straight  at  me  with  a  quiet,  searching  look.  What  did 
the  little  fellow  think  ?  He  did  not  cry  nor  seem  to  think 
of  such  a  thing. 


3 14  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

Prince  Pti  Lun  is  one  of  the  Commissioners  to  the  St. 
Louis  Exposition,  and  I  ventured  to  say  to  him  that  I 
would  be  greatly  pleased  if  his  wife  could  accompany 
him  to  America.  I  said  that  I  should  be  delighted  to 
have  my  people  receive  and  know  a  representative  Chi- 
nese Princess. 

[To  a  Sister] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
June  20,  1904.. 

FOREIGN  educational  work  has  established  itself  in 
China,  and  holds  a  large  and  increasing  following.  It 
is  taken  from  the  kindergarten  through  many  grades  and 
the  equipment  and  honors  of  college  and  university.  We 
visit  these  institutions  and  see  much  of  their  work. 

English  is  extensively  taught,  but  never  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  a  careful  study  of  the  Chinese  language. 

Mr.  Conger  employed  one  of  the  Peking  University 
students  as  a  clerk  in  his  Legation  office.  This  young 
man  spoke  English,  was  quick  to  learn,  accurate,  and 
always  faithful  in  his  work.  He  is  now  in  the  United 
States  for  special  study.  The  educational  advantages 
given  by  the  missions  are  extensive,  far-reaching,  and 
bear  a  growing  activity.  They  fill  an  important  place 
in  mission  work. 

I  am  learning  that  it  does  not  matter  so  much  about 
the  amount  we  do,  as  it  does  about  the  quality  of  what 
we  do.  I  wish  that  I  had  time  to  tell  you  some  of  my 
impressions  of  things  here  as  I  see  them  to-day.  More 
and  more  I  am  permitted  to  enter  the  Chinese  palaces 
and  the  homes  of  the  higher  classes.  As  I  become  better 
acquainted  with  the  Chinese  by  receiving  them  and  being 


POPPY   FIELDS  AND  OPIUM       315 

received,  I  become  more  interested  in  them.  We  are 
friends,  and  some  day  I  hope  to  tell  you  of  the  many 
things  they  do  for  us.  The  story  is  a  long  and  beautiful  one. 

By  permission  from  the  Court,  we  have  just  visited 
the  Imperial  Western  Tombs.  The  courtesy  of  a  private 
car  was  extended  to  us,  and  everything  was  done  for 
our  pleasure  on  the  way  to  the  Tombs,  while  there,  and 
on  our  return.  Princes,  dukes,  and  officers  visited  us, 
and  we  were  served  with  " feasts"  and  shown  many 
attentions.  The  Tombs  were  opened  —  even  the  most 
sacred  places, —  and  officials  accompanied  us  to  explain 
the  hidden  meaning.  It  is  a  wonderfully  beautiful  spot. 
Everything  is  on  the  imperial  scale,  and  a  new  book  of 
valuable  details  was  opened  to  us.  Miss  Campbell  is 
writing  an  account  of  the  trip,  and  will  send  it  to  you. 
We  passed  by  large  fields  of  blooming  poppies,  beautiful 
in  their  white,  pink,  and  green.  This  surely  is  the  land 
of  the  poppy!  Some  fields  were  ready  forithejgathering  of 
the  opium,  and  we  watched  with  interest  the  crude  pro- 
cesses for  gathering  this  costly  article  of  commerce.  A 
knife  for  gashing  the  seed  bulb,  their  fingers,  and  a  tiny 
cup  were  their  only  equipments  for  gathering  the  opium; 
but  Chinese  economy  saved  it  all. 

On  our  return  we  visited  our  missionary  friends  of 
siege  days  at  Paoting  Fu.  We  visited  the  places  where 
the  old  missions  stood,  and  where  bitter  hatred  did  its 
dastardly  work.  The  enraged  fiend  knew  not  what  he 
did.  He  strove  to  mock  and  crucify  the  Christ- spirit,  but 
with  the  stability  of  Truth,  this  spirit  rises  untouched. 
The  Morning  Star  shines  still  brighter  through  the 
atmosphere  of  those  martyrs.  Love's  battles  are  over- 
coming Hatred's  revolt. 


3i6  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

We  found  the  missions  rebuilt  and  all  their  many  lines 
of  work  moving  on  with  activity.  The  Chinese  converts 
who  survived  the  troubles  of  1900  and  bore  their  awful 
test  are  strong  helpers  to-day,  and  there  is  more  interest 
manifested,  far  more  sympathy  offered,  and  more  respect 
shown  the  Christian  thought  than  ever  before. 

To-day  is  the  twentieth  of  June,  the  anniversary  of 
the  day  we  went  into  siege.  Some  are  commemorating 
it,  but  I  have  no  desire  to  do  so.  The  fourteenth  of 
August  is  my  day  to  commemorate.  God  be  praised  for 
His  loving,  protecting  care  over  us,  and  for  the  deliverance 
that  came  to  us;  and  may  we  secretly  shed  tears  in  mem- 
ory of  those  who  sacrificed  their  lives  in  those  awful  days! 


[To  a  Friend] 

American  Legation,  Peking, 
October  25,  igo/j.. 

YOU  ask  how  I  learned  about  the  Chinese,  about  the 
missionaries  and  their  work.  In  reply  I  would  say  that 
I  first  studied  my  attitude.  Our  attitude  determines  our 
view  and  opportunity  for  information  and  progress.  This 
is  true  with  every  part  of  this  life's  living,  and  the  care 
with  which  we  study  our  attitude  should  not  be  a  minor 
thing. 

Experience  having  taught  me  this  lesson,  when  I  came 
to  China  it  was  my  unyielding  effort,  from  the  first,  to 
learn  all  that  I  could  of  her  people  and  from  her  people. 
Impossibilities  stared  me  in  the  face.  High  walls,  locked 
gates,  curtained  chairs  and  carts,  and  long-established 
customs  concealed  completely  the  official  and  higher 
classes  of  the  Chinese  ladies  from  contact  with  the  for- 


I 


OPENING   CHINA'S   DOORS         317 

eigners  and  even  from  their  view.  The  streets  of  Peking- 
were  thronged  with  men,  but  women  were  seldom  seen. 
Still  it  was  truly  "the  city  of  the  blue  gown."  With 
most  earnest  prayers  that  I  might  meet  the  higher-class 
people  and  know  them,  I  sought  for  opportunities  to  have 
these  prayers  answered.  I  listened  for  the  answers.  At 
first  they  came  in  whisperings,  and  gratitude  inspired 
hope.  I  steadfastly  but  quietly  worked  with  a  definite 
aim  in  view. 

China,  with  her  centuries  of  history,  is  no  child  in  her 
thought  and  action.  Thousands  of  years  she  had  stood 
independent  of  all  other  peoples,  and  she  wished  to  con- 
tinue thus;  but  the  great  sisterhood  of  nations  would  no 
longer  permit  this  independence.  Little  by  little  these 
nations  opened  China's  doors.  They  persuaded  and 
forced  her  to  join  hands  with  them,  and  even  to  divide  her 
possessions  with  them.  Strange  demands!  The  thought 
of  individuality  seemed  to  permeate  the  entire  domain 
of  China.  The  Chinese  walled  in  their  great  empire 
over  two  hundred  years  before  Jesus  Christ;  they  walled 
in  their  cities,  also  the  palaces  and  homes  of  the  cities. 
They  never  extended  their  hands  in  friendly  greeting,  but 
clasped  their  own  hands.  Their  homes  were  exclusive 
and  very  difficult  to  enter.  Even  their  industries  were 
local.  The  thoughts  governing  their  customs  are  kindred 
thoughts.  They  have  formed,  and  still  form,  strong 
thought  barricades.  Their  language,  written  and  spoken, 
is  their  very  own  and  most  intricate.  How  could  any 
impression  be  made  upon  them? 

The  pioneer  into  this  fortified,  almost  iron-clad,  nation 
was  the  missionary  thought.  No  other  could  have 
entered.     It  goes  to  stay,  to  stem  the  tides  of  difficulties 


3i8  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

and  discouragements,  to  face  the  blasts  of  hatred,  to  rise 
above  the  stings  of  scoffers,  in  fact,  to  stand,  ever  waving 
the  "Love  Banner"  in  Christ's  spirit.  If  we  wish  to  learn 
about  any  enterprise  or  cause,  let  us  go  to  the  friends  and 
workers  in  this  enterprise  or  cause.  To  learn  of  the  mis- 
sionary work,  let  us  go  to  the  self- sacrificing  workers  in 
the  fields  and  see  and  studv  their  work. 

At  first  two  American  gentlemen  who  were  thorough 
Chinese  scholars  gave  me  great  assistance.  They  took 
me  to  native  boys'  schools,  to  temples,  shops,  public 
demonstrations,  and  explained  them.  But  what  they 
could  not  give,  I  greatly  desired  to  know.  I  wished  to 
learn  what  the  women  and  girls  were  doing.  The  mission- 
aries opened  many  of  these  avenues  for  me.  Never  can 
I  forget  what  a  strong  desire  my  first  visit  to  the  mission 
girls'  school  awakened  in  me  to  know  more  of  these 
Chinese  girls.     I  continued  my  visits  to  these  schools. 

Step  by  step  for  nearly  seven  years  I  have  been  enter- 
ing earnestly  and  perseveringly  the  secluded  as  well  as  the 
more  open  places  for  information.  I  have  learned  most 
valuable  lessons  to  broaden  and  enrich  my  view  of  the 
meaning  of  one  grand  brotherhood. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

Shanghai,  November  12,  IQ04.. 

IN  part  I  am  going  to  write  a  diary  letter. 

November  5.  Miss  Maurine  Campbell  and  I  bade 
good-bye  to  your  father,  to  our  Legation  home,  and  to 
Peking  for  a  three  months'  trip  to  South  China.  To-day 
we  arrived  in  Shanghai  after  a  delightful  voyage  down 
the  coast. 


A   FESTIVE   OCCASION  319 

The  foreign  Ministers  in  Peking  go  to  the  Palace  in 
audience  to  pay  their  respects  and  to  bear  congratulatory 
letters  from  their  several  Governments  to  the  Empress 
Dowager  of  China  in  honor  of  Her  Majesty's  seventieth 
birthday.  This  is  a  diplomatic  measure.  Those  Min- 
isters who  have  received  such  letters  go  in  audience  to-day. 
Your  father  is  Dean  of  this  first  audience. 

Her  Majesty's  birthday  falls  in  our  November;  their 
dates  are  determined  according  to  the  moons.  On  festive 
occasions  the  Chinese  celebrate  for  many  days,  and  those 
highest  in  rank  express  the  fullest  meaning  of  these  occa- 
sions. In  driving  through  the  streets  in  the  foreign  con- 
cession of  Shanghai,  we  saw  many  beautiful  decorations 
in  honor  of  Her  Majesty's  birthday.  The  Chinese  stores 
were  aglow  with  brilliant  colors;  even  the  Chinese  flag 
was  waving,  a  most  unusual  thing,  as  the  flag,  in  China, 
is  used  only  officially.  I  never  before  saw  such  a  departure 
from  old  customs,  but  we  must  remember  that  this  part 
of  ^Shanghai  does  not  belong  to  China;  it  is  now  a 
foreign  concession,  and  Chinese  laws  are  not  enforced 
here.  Myriads  of  beautiful  lanterns  in  their  almost  end- 
less varieties  added  brilliancy  to  the  many  other  decora- 
tions. The  Chinaman  proclaimed  his  loyalty  to  China 
and  her  rulers  in  such  a  way  that  the  foreigner  could 
understand  that  loyalty,  even  though  he  were  in  his  for- 
eign concession. 

November  13.  We  visited  the  Nan  Yang  College, 
about  five  miles  from  the  city.  The  grounds  are  exten- 
sive and  are  beautiful  in  their  luxuriant,  semi-tropical 
growth.  The  many  buildings  are  fine  and  large.  One 
of  these  is  a  Confucian  temple  building  with  tablet,  where 
the  college  boys  pay  homage  twice  each  month  and  on 


320  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

other  special  occasions.  There  is  a  gallery  in  the  rear  of 
this  temple  building  opposite  the  tablet  where  a  choir  of 
boys  sing  while  the  others  enter  and  kotow  in  front  of  the 
tablet.  Respect  shown  the  great  Confucius  quite  ap- 
pealed to  me,  as  he  is  China's  redeemer  and  saviour. 
There  are  two  hundred  and  fifty  boys  in  this  institution. 
They  are  given  seven  years'  instruction  in  English,  two 
in  French,  and  two  in  German.  We  were  taken  through 
the  many  departments,  and  their  different  lines  of  work 
as  explained  to  us  were  a  revelation. 

November  14..  Our  house-boat  trip  up  the  Grand 
Canal  is  full  of  interest.  Mr.  Fiske  of  Shanghai  offered 
his  fine  boat  for  our  trip  of  eight  days.  We  are  alone  with 
our  boy  Li,  other  servants,  the  Captain,  and  the  crew. 
"A  house-boat!"  was  my  first  exclamation.  I  did  not 
for  one  moment  comprehend  what  a  great  favor,  a  great 
compliment,  Mr.  Fiske  was  bestowing  upon  us.  I  cannot 
realize  that  we  are  on  a  house-boat!  There  is  furnace 
heat,  and  there  are  writing  desks,  easy  chairs,  sofas,  car- 
pets, good  beds,  everything  to  make  us  comfortable. 
And  we  are  on  the  Grand  Canal  of  China!  The  idea 
conceived  and  executed  ages  ago  by  which  South  and 
North  China  are  united  by  a  navigable  watercourse  is 
one  of  the  great  engineering  feats  of  the  world.  Through 
the  centuries  this  canal  has  performed  its  duty,  but  other 
methods  are  causing  the  old  highway  to  rest  from  its 
multiplied,  toilsome  labors.  This  canal,  however,  is  not 
by  any  means  useless. 

November  15.  We  arose  early  and  went  above.  The 
morning  is  beautiful.  Many  well-filled  junks  are  on  the 
canal  and  there  is  much  business  done  between  the  vil- 
lages we  are  passing.     Surely  this  is  a  "Grand  Canal"! 


CONSULATE  AT  HANG  CHOW     321 

We  arrived  in  Hang  Chow  at  four  o'clock.  Friends 
met  us  with  chairs,  and  coolies  to  carry  our  baggage. 
There  are  no  carts  in  this  city;  all  labor  is  done  by  men, 
women,  and  children.  We  were  taken  to  the  Consulate, 
where  we  were  entertained  by  Consul  and  Mrs.  Anderson 
and  the  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Cloud.  Tea  was  served,  then 
we  took  our  chairs  and  were  off  for  a  picturesque  six-mile 
ride  over  high-arched  bridges  with  stone  steps,  and  along 
banks  of  canal,  river,  and  lake.  We  were  dressed  in  our 
warm  winter  clothes  and  furs,  while  the  chair  coolies  were 
bare  from  foot  to  far  above  the  knee.  Before  we  again 
reached  the  Consulate  it  was  late  twilight,  the  stars  were 
shining,  and  the  night- stillness  was  upon  us.  At  the 
Consulate  a  delicious  dinner  and  a  good  visit  awaited  us. 

November  16.  Another  day  in  chairs,  seeking  new 
experiences.  Visited  three  factories  and  other  places  of 
interest.  Thirty  Americans  and  other  foreigners  called 
by  invitation  and  brought  with  them  stores  of  information 
for  us  to  feast  upon.  The  Consulate  is  upon  a  high  bluff 
overlooking  a  beautiful  lake  dotted  with  many  islands, 
now  rich  in  their  autumn  colorings.  We  observed  about 
us  many  marks  of  patriotism,  as  the  yellow  and  red  colors 
were  waving  in  honor  of  Her  Majesty's  seventieth  birth- 
day. 

November  17.  To-day  we  visited  the  missions,  both 
British  and  American.  Their  different  departments 
were  well  equipped.  One  of  the  hospital  doctors  said  to 
me  as  we  were  passing  a  patient  standing  near:  "Look 
at  that  eye;  there  is  no  life  in  it.  We  would  think  that 
he  should  be  in  bed,  but  Chinese  do  not  think  so.  They 
will  go  until  they  drop  dead." 

A  missionary  told  me  that  on  one  of  his  journeys  he 


322  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

met  an  aged  man  who  was  measuring  with  the  length  of 
his  body  a  pilgrimage  of  one  hundred  miles.  He  would 
kotow,  that  is  bump  his  head  three  times  upon  the  ground, 
then  prostrate  himself  full  length;  get  up,  repeat,  and 
still  repeat.  The  missionary  asked  what  demanded  this 
sacrifice,  and  in  reply  was  told  that  it  was  to  make  good 
a  solemn  vow.  The  Chinese  said,  "My  son  was  very  ill. 
I  prayed  and  made  most  sacred  vows  to  the  god  of  health 
that  if  he  would  spare  my  son,  I  would  measure  with  my 
body  every  mile  of  this  pilgrimage  to  the  tombs  of  my 
ancestors.  He  was  spared  to  me.  I  must  keep  my  vow. 
No  one  can  help  me.  I  must  go  alone."  He  went  on  in 
his  journey  sustained,  because  the  vow  was  in  his  heart. 

We  attended  the  morning  exercises  in  the  large  chapel, 
which  was  well  filled  with  intelligent-looking  boys  and 
young  men.  The  service  was  conducted  in  both  Chinese 
and  English.  They  sang  in  English,  "No,  Not  One." 
While  these  Chinese  young  men  were  singing,  this  thought 
came  to  me :  All  nations  sing,  from  the  savage  to  the  most 
cultured.  Some  sing  independently  of  all  others,  as  they 
have  their  own  scales  and  tones.  Many  nations  have 
adopted  the  same  scale  and  use  the  same  music.  China 
has  long  sung  alone,  but  little  by  little  her  people  are  join- 
ing the  great  sisterhood  of  nations  and  catching  the 
tones  and  even  the  words  of  this  sisterhood. 

It  is  remarkable  what  these  people  can  do  when  they 
try.  Chinese  singing  and  music  are  very  different  from 
our  singing  and  music ;  hence  it  is  wonderful  to  me  when 
they  adopt  our  ways,  for  in  so  doing,  they  must  forsake 
their  own.  When  we  think  them  slow,  our  patience  should 
equal  theirs.  Why  should  they  be  in  haste  to  adopt  ideas 
which  they  deem  inferior?    I  have  great  sympathy  for 


THE  CHINESE  STANDPOINT       323 

the  Chinese,  who  wish  to  be  let  alone,  but  who  are  seeing 
their  ideas  supplanted,  and  their  great  old  nation  weak- 
ening through  the  influence  of  the  foreigners.  Their 
clock-work  customs  —  ever  the  same  —  are  broken  into, 
and  this  brings  confusion.  China's  coming  generations 
will  have  mighty  battles  to  fight  and  intricate  questions 
to  solve.  But  they  can  do  all.  There  is  a  stored  power 
born  of  patience  and  nurtured  by  steadfastness,  endurance, 
and  love  for  their  native  land,  and  this  power  will  show 
itself  —  but  in  China's  own  way. 

While  I  enjoy  visiting  these  foreign  schools  for  the 
Chinese  and  seeing  the  young  men  and  women  learning 
foreign  ideas  and  how  to  use  them,  there  is  a  pathetic  side 
to  it.  To  a  certain  extent,  I  see  from  the  Chinese  stand- 
point, and  I  question,  "How  should  we  Americans  like 
to  have  other  nations  establish  their  schools  to  educate 
our  youth  out  of  the  customs  and  principles  of  our  Gov- 
ernment?" But  with  the  assurance  that  the  eternal 
Might  of  Right  will  prevail,  I  see  the  fulfilment  of  the 
prophecy  that,  under  the  canopy  of  Love  to  God  and 
good  will  to  men,  all  people  shall  sit  down  together. 

Hang  Chow,  November  18.  At  eight  o'clock  A.  m. 
we  started  in  our  chairs  to  visit  the  "Great  Bore."  On 
our  way  we  saw  the  first  carts  that  we  had  seen  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  Each  was  hauled  by  five  water 
buffaloes.  Our  travels  were  through  a  rich,  finely  culti- 
vated country.  The  Sea  Wall,  built  many  centuries  ago, 
after  many  failures,  is  a  wonderful,  historic  road.  We 
reached  the  spot  where  it  is  said  that  the  bore,  or  tidal 
flood,  can  be  seen,  but  there  was  no  wind  and  the  moon 
land  season  were  against  the  coming  and  rising  of  this 
dreadful  monster.    The  tide  came  in  quietly  and  receded, 


3H  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

but  there  was  no  bore.  We  did  not  hear  its  angry,  deafen- 
ing roar  as  it  marches  irresistibly  on  and  on.  Your  father 
has  seen  it  in  its  awful  grandeur.  Although  there  was 
no  bore  to  be  seen,  the  trip  was  not  a  failure.  Everything 
was  new  to  us,  although  centuries  had  buried  deep  the 
conceivers  and  executors  of  the  strange  things  we  saw.  A 
wonderfully  strong,  united  thought  must  have  wrought 
and  cemented  them. 

November  ig.  We  took  a  house-boat  and  crossed 
the  beautiful  lake  in  front  of  the  Consulate  to  a  hill  of 
temples.  One  temple,  a  very  large  one,  the  Taipings 
had  greatly  damaged.  However,  one  thousand  gods  in 
stone  still  remain.  The  furious  uprising  of  the  Taip- 
ings left  destruction  in  its  pathway.  I  shall  remember 
when  this  rebellion  took  place  as  the  dates  correspond  to 
those  of  our  Civil  War.  The  Taiping  Rebellion  broke 
out  in  i860.  In  1863  Major  Gordon  began  to  repulse 
the  Taipings,  and  their  downfall  was  complete.  The 
rivers  of  blood  must  have  equalled  those  of  the  present 
Russo-Japanese  War.  Much  of  the  hill  of  temples  has 
been  rebuilt,  but  the  sacrificed  lives  and  the  historical 
treasures  cannot  be  replaced.  While  modern  activity 
has  brought  back  much  of  the  industry,  the  historic 
landmarks  have  disappeared  forever. 

Hang  Chow  is  a  beautiful  city.  I  have  seen  nothing 
like  it  in  all  China.  With  pleasant  memories  of  our  visit, 
and  accompanied  by  a  number  of  our  new-found  friends, 
we  left  the  city  for  our  house-boat  six  miles  distant. 

Soo  Chow,  November  20.  We  arrived  at  Soo  Chow 
at  ten  o'clock.  A  medical  missionary  kindly  met  us  and 
arranged  for  us  a  programme  for  the  day,  saying,  "As  it 
is  Sunday,  the  day  is  full  of  special  work."     Monday 


SHEWS  GARDENS,   SOO   CHOW     325 

morning  he  promised  to  call  and  take  us  to  see  the  sights 
of  this  old,  old  city.  We  have  spent  the  day  as  planned, 
and  enjoyed  it,  but  would  rather  have  been  on  shore  in 
the  missions,  as  we  had  desired  to  spend  Sunday  with 
the  missionaries  and  their  work. 

November  21.  Our  friend  of  yesterday  most  kindly 
came  for  us  at  half -past  eight  o'clock  and  we  were  off 
to  see  the  sights.  We  entered  "Shew's  Gardens"  first. 
(Mr.  Shew  had  visited  at  our  Legation  home  and  dined 
with  us.)  These  gardens  are  extensive  and  truly  won- 
derful. They  speak  loudly  of  time,  wealth,  culture,  and 
love  for  the  beautiful.  Every  part  of  these  gardens  stands 
for  some  sentiment,  and  has  both  a  thought  and  a  money 
value.  There  are  lakes,  grottoes,  running  brooks,  trees, 
shrubs,  plants  of  choice  varieties,  artistic  summer-houses, 
rich  fruits,  and  fine  buildings;  there  is  a  large  sunken 
theatre  with  terraced  seats;  a  library,  rest-rooms  with 
richly  inlaid  and  deeply  carved  Chinese  furnishings; 
there  are  pavilions,  parks  for  deer  and  different  animals; 
lakes  for  fish,  ducks,  and  swans;  and  a  corral  for  storks 
and  brilliantly  plumaged  birds.  Yes,  and  much  else  that 
beauty's  love  had  brought  together.  Everything  shows 
great  care.     It  is  a  beautiful,  beautiful  spot! 

From  the  gardens  we  went  to  the  best  and  oldest 
temples,  visited  the  shops  and  industries,  and  saw  many 
decorations  in  honor  of  Her  Majesty's  birthday.  The 
colors  were  principally  red  and  yellow.  The  streets  of 
Soo  Chow  are  narrow  and  much  like  those  of  Canton. 
Soo  Chow  has  the  largest  pagoda  in  the  world,  the  Pahz 
Ztah,  which  is  nine  stories  high,  100  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  bottom,  and  33  feet  at  the  top.  We  climbed  five 
stories,  and  from  that  point  the  view  was  superb.     The 


326  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

pagoda  furnishings  were  more  elaborate  than  any  we 
had  seen  before. 

Our  new  friend-escort  took  us  to  his  pleasant  home 
full  of  his  choice  collections,  and  here  we  received  a 
warm  welcome  from  his  charming  wife.  She,  too,  is  a 
practising  physician.  We  were  taken  through  the  new 
college  buildings,  which  are  worthy  of  much  more  men- 
tion than  a  diary  letter  can  give.  There  is  more  English 
taught  in  the  South  of  China  than  in  the  North.  Even 
the  Chinese  sometimes  teach  English.  We  saw  only  a  little 
of  their  mission  work  apart  from  their  college  and  schools, 
as  Dr.  F.  was  in  Shanghai  on  Saturday  and  was  there 
erroneously  informed  that  we  were  not  interested  in  mis- 
sion work.  Only  think  how  these  friendly  strangers 
unselfishly  worked  to  entertain  us  with  other  things! 
When  they  learned  the  truth  about  our  interests,  their 
disappointment  was  as  great  as  ours,  as  there  was  much 
to  show  us  of  their  mission  field.  No  one  could  have 
done  more  for  our  pleasure  than  did  these  dear  people. 

November  22.  We  arrived  in  Shanghai  about  five 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  we  start  up  the  great  Yangtze 
to-morrow. 

November  24.  Thanksgiving  Day!  Thoughts  turn 
homeward  to  my  own  native  land  and  our  darling  chil- 
dren, but  more  devotedly,  if  possible,  my  earnest  love- 
thoughts  turn  toward  Peking.  How  is  your  father 
getting  along?  Well,  of  course,  for  he  is  always  equal 
to  whatever  comes  upon  him.  With  intense  gratitude 
I  think  of  him  in  this  delightful  trip,  which  he  has  so 
perfectly  planned  for  us.  There  are  many  friends  with 
him  to-day.  We  telegraphed  our  greetings.  The  trip 
up  the  broad  Yangtze  has  been  delightful.    There  have 


THE  SILK  INDUSTRIES  327 

been  few  hills  in  view;  the  country  is  mostly  flat.  There 
is  much  shipping  done  upon  this  river,  and  the  cargoes 
are  heavy. 

Nanking,  November  26.  We  were  hospitably  enter- 
tained by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Stewart  in  their  dear  home. 
With  an  increasing  interest,  vitalized  by  better  knowl- 
edge of  them,  I  am  visiting  the  missions.  Their  many 
lines  of  work  make  their  influence  far-reaching.  Nan- 
king is  China's  former  capital,  and  one  of  the  most 
thrifty  cities  on  the  Yangtze. 

We  visited  the  silk  industries  and  watched  the  pro- 
cesses from  the  cocoon  to  the  finest  of  fabrics.  This 
work  is  all  done  by  hand  and  hand  machinery,  and  in 
the  crudest  manner.  Strange  workers  do  most  exquis- 
ite work  in  strange  ways.  This  morning  we  visited  the 
boys'  school  of  three  hundred  students;  this  afternoon 
we  visited  the  girls'  school  and  heard  them  sing  in  Eng- 
lish. The  Home  Board  sends  a  professional  musician  to 
teach  music  in  their  missions  in  the  cities  along  the 
Yangtze  and  her  work  is  surely  a  great  success. 

We  visited  the  places  where  the  Imperial  silk-weaving 
is  done.  This  work  is  carried  on  in  small,  dirty  places, 
and  with  hand  looms.  Many  children  were  playing 
around  these  workers  as  they  made  rich,  dainty,  beauti- 
ful fabrics.  There  were  four  looms  in  each  factory. 
The  pattern  man  sat  above  and  in  front  of  the  shuttle 
man.  The  style,  texture,  and  accuracy  of  the  whole 
work  was  wonderful.  How  could  they  do  such  beauti- 
ful work  in  those  surroundings!  I  wanted  to  buy  some 
of  those  silks  and  satins  we  saw  them  making,  but 
Imperial  goods  are  not  for  sale. 

The  Examination  Halls  in  Nanking  accommodate 


328  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

thirty  thousand  students.  The  general  style  of  division 
into  stalls  is  like  that  of  the  Examination  Halls  in  Peking, 
but  the  honors  granted  here  are  not  so  high. 

November  27.  I  received  a  cablegram  from  the 
Thanksgiving  people  at  the  American  Legation,  Peking, 
saying,  "Eighty  Americans  send  thanks  and  loving  greet- 
ings." 

We  attend  many  religious  services  during  the  day. 
Although  the  girls  and  boys  do  not  intermingle,  they  are 
taught  music  so  perfectly  that  when  they  come  to  church 
they  carry  their  allotted  parts  in  harmony.  They  sang 
anthems  in  English,  and  carried  the  four  parts  with 
assurance.  This  was  foreign  in  every  way  to  China; 
it  was  foreign  music,  foreign  words,  a  foreign  instructor, 
and  in  a  foreign  church;  but  Chinese  girls  and  boys  were 
here  uniting  their  voices  in  praises  to  the  good  Father 
of  all. 

[To  Our  Daughter] 

Nanking,  December  6,  1904. 

November  28.  We  visited  the  Ming  Tombs  a  few 
miles  out  from  Nanking,  and  while  these  tombs  conveyed 
to  us  a  suggestion  of  the  past  glory  of  the  Mings,  the 
ravages  of  time  and  the  Taiping  Rebellion  have  obliterated 
the  brilliancy  of  that  glory.  These  tombs  compare  in  no 
way  with  those  which  you  have  seen  near  Peking;  still  it 
was  easy  to  detect  that  kindred  thoughts  constructed  the 
two.  Inferior  buildings  have  been  placed  upon  the 
stable  foundations  of  these  tomb-buildings,  which  were 
swept  away  long  ago. 

What  the  Taipings  destroyed  at  these  Tombs  in  and 
about  Nanking  can  never  be  replaced.    The  Porcelain 


THE  CHINESE  MINT  329 

Tower,  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  was  destroyed, 
and  many  other  of  China's  best  productions  met  the 
same  fate.    The  madness  of  revolt  does  destroy. 

The  city  wall  at  Nanking  is  higher  and  thicker  than  the 
Peking  wall  and  is  quite  well  preserved.  The  old  capital 
buildings  have  disappeared  save  one,  and  so  have  the 
walls  protecting  them.  The  signs  of  personal  glory  have 
passed  from  this  place  —  time  has  buried  them  from 
sight  and  almost  from  mind. 

We  visited  the  Temple  of  Confucius.  Our  interest  in 
temples  to  him  increases  as  we  learn  more  of  this  leader's 
noble  life  and  influence. 

November  2g.  The  American  Consul  arranged  for  us 
a  visit  to  the  Chinese  mint.  We  drove  to  the  Foreign 
Office,  where  we  were  requested  to  leave  our  carriage  and 
take  official  chairs.  We  were  taken  in  these  chairs  to  a 
waiting-room  where  the  highest  official  received  us,  and  we 
were  served  tea.  After  a  few  minutes  of  complimentary 
talk  we  were  escorted  to  our  chairs  accompanied  by  two 
representatives  and  an  escort.  When  we  left  the  Foreign 
Office,  ahead  of  us  were  four  soldiers  and  a  uniformed 
man  bearing  upon  a  high  standard  a  large  red  embroidered 
umbrella;  following  us  were  two  officers  in  official  chairs. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  mint,  we  were  met  by  other  of- 
ficials, escorted  into  a  reception  room,  and  again  tea  was 
served.  The  director-general  was  there,  and  all  were 
dressed  in  beautiful  official  robes.  In  most  respectful 
manner  we  were  shown  through  the  mint,  and  much  was 
explained  to  us.  In  fact  every  courtesy  was  shown  us, 
and  the  trip  was  made  one  of  unusual  interest.  The 
American  Consul  was  most  thoughtful  of  our  pleasure 
while  in  Nanking. 


330  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

November  30.  The  Foreign  Office  interpreter  called 
early  to  present  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy's  compliments 
and  to  ask  if  we  could  receive  him  at  eleven  o'clock. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  took  us  to  the  Temple  of  the  Great 
Bell.  The  story  runs  that  there  were  three  large  bells 
cast  at  the  same  time.  The  largest  is  in  Peking;  the  next 
largest  in  Nanking ;  I  am  told  that  the  third  is  somewhere 
in  the  interior.  This  Nanking  bell  was  taken  from  a  hill 
near  the  city,  where  the  work  of  the  centuries  had  almost 
buried  it,  and  placed  in  a  special  tower  of  a  temple.  In  an 
upper  story  of  the  tower  are  images  of  three  maiden  sisters; 
these  images  represent  the  maidens  who  threw  themselves 
into  the  melted  bronze  to  make  the  bell  perfect  when 
moulded.  They  sit  facing  the  south,  and  are  dressed  in 
real  clothes  and  ornaments,  and  have  real  hair.  Such  im- 
ages as  these  I  never  saw  before  in  Chinese  temples.  The 
long  story  about  these  bells  and  the  maidens  is  a  most 
interesting  one.     Sometime  I  must  tell  it  to  you. 

The  representative  of  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy 
brought  to  me  rich,  costly  gifts.  This  Viceroy  is  one  of 
your  father's  warm  friends.  The  highest  official  at  the 
Foreign  Office  sent  me  many  rolls  of  choice  tea  in  small 
cases.  Each  of  these  cases  was  covered  with  embroidered 
silk  and  rolled  in  artistic  Chinese  style.  The  many  kind- 
nesses extended  to  us  by  the  Chinese,  the  British,  our 
Consul,  and  our  missionaries  make  the  heart  grow  bigger 
and  the  would-be  helping  hand  reach  farther.  Your 
father  has  been  over  all  this  part  of  China,  has  left  love 
and  respect  in  his  wake,  and  blessings  flow  to  us  as  we 
follow. 

Kiukiang,  December  1.  Missionary  ladies  met  us 
here  and  took  us  to  their  home,  where  we  were  tenderly 


MISSIONARY  WORKERS  331 

cared  for  during  our  stay  in  the  city.  With  great  benefit 
and  pleasure  to  ourselves  we  visited  every  part  of  this 
large  mission,  other  missions,  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  and  charitable  institutions. 

The  Imperial  porcelain  is  all  made  in  the  interior 
some  distance  from  Kiukiang.  I  wished  to  purchase 
some,  as  it  is  not  to  be  found  in  Peking,  but  the  pieces  in 
the  shops  here  are  rejected  ones, —  those  having  slight 
blemishes.  What  I  knew  to  be  good  and  what  I  wanted, 
was  difficult  to  find.  As  we  visit  city  after  city  I  recog- 
nize the  fact  that  each  one  has  its  special  productions. 
As  I  travel,  I  shall  strive  to  obtain  a  specimen  of  each. 

This  mission  compound  where  we  are  entertained  is 
most  beautifully  situated;  the  views  are  grand,  and  the 
grounds  and  buildings  are  arranged  with  artistic  skill. 
Bamboo  groves,  palm  avenues,  terraces,  flowers,  camphor 
trees,  ivy-grown  walls,  all  make  a  picture  of  marvellous 
beauty.  The  work  of  this  mission  includes  many  de- 
partments, from  the  foundlings'  home  to  the  college,  and 
with  keen  interest  we  visited  each  department.  We  next 
visited  the  Roman  Catholic  mission.  Wherever  we  go,  we 
find  their  work  thoroughly  and  systematically  organized. 
They  work  together  as  one  body. 

We  called  on  Miss  H.  and  three  Chinese  ladies,  Dr. 
Stone,  her  sister,  and  Dr.  Kahn,  who  were  educated  at 
Ann  Arbor,  Michigan,  These  three  Chinese  girls  are 
giving  their  liyes  in  maidenhood  to  their  country,  and  are 
highly  respected  and  beloved  by  their  own  people.  They 
do  not  offend  their  higher-class  people  by  making  inroads 
upon  their  customs.  They  work  in  harmony  with  these 
people  and  thus  gain  access  to  their  homes  and  their 
hearts. 


33i  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

On  this  trip  I  am  learning  many  things;  new  ideas 
assert  themselves,  and  old  ideas  are  yielding.  Even  to 
guess  what  people  are  doing,  one  must  mingle  a  time  with 
them. 

December  5.  We  are  off  again  up  the  Yangtze,  a 
river  still  wonderful  in  its  grand  immensity. 


[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

Han  Kow,  December  75,  igoq.. 

HAN  KOW,  as  you  will  remember,  is  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Yangtze.  We  arrived  here  the  seventh 
and  were  met  by  the  American  Consul  General  who  drove 
us  at  once  to  the  Consulate,  where  his  wife,  daughter, 
son-in-law,  and  their  dear  boys  gave  us  a  warm  welcome. 

The  first  day  we  were  here  the  compliments  of  the 
Viceroy  were  brought  by  his  secretary.  Our  days  have 
been  filled  full,  and  the  Consul  and  his  family  have  added 
life  to  them.  We  visited  the  Native  City  to  see  the  in- 
dustries. The  velvet  weaving;  the  making,  coloring,  and 
polishing  of  their  blue  cotton  goods;  the  weaving  of  lace, 
ribbon,  belts,  and  other  articles;  the  making  of  fire- 
crackers and  fireworks  in  their  intricate  designs  —  all 
were  most  instructive.  The  whole  of  this  wonderful 
work  is  done  by  hand  and  crude  machinery.  There  is 
only  human  labor  in  the  Native  City. 

The  Italian  convent  here  is  a  vast  affair.  We  were 
taken  through  buildings,  courts,  and  storerooms,  where 
we  saw  great  bins  of  rice,  millet,  and  other  grains.  They 
have  flour  mills  and  in  fact  everything  on  the  premises 
of  this  convent  to  keep  and  support  their  girls.  We  saw 
the  girls  and  women  at  work  in  the  most  systematic 


MISSIONS  AND   SCHOOLS  333 

manner.  The  very  little  ones,  the  blind,  the  one-armed, 
the  aged,  in  fact  all,  worked  in  the  many  branches  of  labor, 
and  all  looked  contented,  happy.  They  sell  quantities 
of  choice  laces  and  other  productions.  This  convent 
presented  to  me  another  pronounced  phase  of  religious 
education  which  holds  its  distinct  tone  in  my  new  choir 
of  praise  to  God. 

We  crossed  the  river  in  the  Viceroy's  launch  with  an 
escort  kindly  sent  by  him.  His  secretary  met  us  with 
carriages,  and  we  were  taken  to  the  pagoda  upon  a  high 
bluff  where  we  could  get  a  fine  view  of  this  beautiful, 
fertile  country.  From  this  pagoda  we  were  driven  to  the 
Chinese  kindergarten,  which  was  established  by  a  wealthy 
Chinese.  While  the  school  is  called  a  kindergarten,  there 
is  much  beyond  this  instruction  in  these  extensive,  well- 
equipped  grounds  and  buildings.  We  next  drove  to  the 
Viceroy's  drill  grounds.  He  has  picked  soldiers  in  his 
guard  and  their  drill  for  us  was  as  fine  as  I  ever  witnessed. 
Their  athletic  sports  were  superb. 

By  means  of  a  launch  across  the  river  and  chairs  at 
the  landing  we  were  escorted  to  the  mission  and  school  at 
Wu  Ch'ang,  where  everything  seemed  to  be  teeming  with 
life  and  strength  well  spent.  While  we  were  in  the  chapel 
we  were  told  the  reading  of  the  local  bill  presented  for 
their  beautiful  new  eagle  lectern.  The  item  was  as  fol- 
lows, "  Forty  dollars  for  one  Holy  Rooster." 

We  next  visited  the  extensive  tea  "  factory, "  where  we 
were  shown  the  many  processes  of  preparing  tea  for  both 
home  and  foreign  trade.  The  tea- testing  was  most  inter- 
esting. 

We  were  invited  to  four  o'clock  tea  at  the  Episcopal 
mission,  where  we  were  received  and  shown  something 


334  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

of  their  work.  While  we  were  in  their  beautiful  large 
church,  a  choir  of  twenty  Chinese  boys  marched  in  dressed 
in  white  surplices  and  chanting  as  they  came.  They  sang 
with  clear  sweet  voices  several  pieces  of  church  music, 
and  then  "  God  Save  Our  Emperor"  to  the  tune  of  "Amer- 
ica." I  was  glad  to  see  these  small  boys  learning  to 
be  patriotic.  As  they  passed  out  of  the  church  I  shook 
hands  with  each  of  them  and  thanked  them  for  sweet 
music-giving. 

Steamer,  December  14..  All  too  soon  the  time  came  for 
us  to  say  our  good-byes  and  depart  from  the  beautiful, 
thrifty  city  of  Han  Kow,  where  our  visit  was  surely  a 
happy  one. 

What  a  wonderful  river !  At  times  it  looks  like  a  vast 
lake ;  then  towering  banks  call  it  back  to  its  river  confines. 


[To  Our  Daughter  Laura] 

Chtnkiang  and  Shanghai, 
December  25,  igoq.. 

WHEN  in  this  city  during  the  celebration  of  Her  Maj- 
esty's seventieth  birthday,  I  saw  the  Chinese  Imperial  flag 
flying  in  front  of  the  Chinese  shops  in  the  foreign  con- 
cessions. I  was  so  delighted  to  see  this  patriotism  mani- 
fested by  the  Chinese  that  I  really  wished  one  of  the  flags 
to  take  back  to  Peking,  and  I  tried  to  purchase  one,  but 
could  not.  Here  on  the  morning  of  this  Christmas  day  I 
saw  stretched  out  before  me  one  of  these  flags  with  your 
father's  writing  pinned  to  it. 

I  must  retrace  my  steps  and  tell  you  of  our  visit  to 
Chinkiang  on  the  Yangtze.  Miss  Robinson  met  us  with 
chairs,  and  through  the  city  and  over  the  hills  we  went  to 


MISSION  SCHOOL   FOR  GIRLS      335 

the  mission,  where  a  warm,  bright  home  greeted  us.  Here 
we  visited  Miss  Robinson's  school  for  girls.  These  girls 
received  us  in  the  chapel  of  their  school  building.  As  we 
entered  they  all  arose  and,  in  English,  sang  most  sweetly 
a  welcome  song.  They  had  draped  the  American  flag 
above  our  chairs  in  honor  of  our  coming,  and  above  it 
their  own  Dragon  flag.  These  girls  had  made  their  own 
programme.  They  sang  many  songs  and  hymns  together, 
carrying  the  different  parts  in  confident  sweetness.  We 
were  introduced  to  one  another,  and  were  friends.  Both 
the  spirit  and  the  method  of  Miss  Robinson's  tender,  lov- 
ing, guiding  care  have  been  imbibed  by  the  girls,  and  they 
live  her  teachings.  They  took  us  to  the  kindergarten  room 
where  the  little  tots  did  wonderfully  well  in  their  work 
and  play.  The  music  was  played  by  a  Chinese  girl,  and 
their  teacher  was  one  of  their  number.  This  teacher  was 
once  a  helpless  babe  found  upon  Miss  Robinson's  door- 
step. With  devoted  care  she  has  grown  into  a  trustworthy 
and  competent  co-worker  for  her  people.  There  was  no 
false  pride  nor  timidity  manifested  by  these  girls.  Love's 
watchful  care  had  taught  them  to  be  at  their  best,  to  be 
natural.  This  large  family  of  girls  is  self-governed 
through  their  teacher's  high  conception  of  love  to  God  and 
good  will  toward  men.  We  mingled  with  these  girls  and 
learned  to  know  them.  They  are  being  taught  Eng- 
lish, and  when  I  talked  to  them,  assembled,  they  under- 
stood me.  In  the  morning  we  attended  church  services 
conducted  by  a  Chinese  pastor;  in  the  evening  foreign 
services  in  the  city.  The  moon  was  up  when  we  returned 
to  the  mission  heights;  and  it  was  a  weird  experience 
as  we  went  in  and  out  of  those  strange  streets  filled  with 
strange  people,   and  climbed  and  descended   the  hills 


336  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

through  deserted  footpaths.  How  like  a  dream  it  all 
seemed!  Our  chair- bearers  were  faithful  and  took  us 
safe  to  our  warm,  cheerful  fireside. 

Monday,  Dr.  Hoag  took  us  in  chairs  to  the  Chinese 
boys'  school  established  by  a  wealthy  Chinese  on  an 
island.  It  is  conducted  by  Chinese  in  the  style  of  the 
West,  but  with  the  Chinese  classics.  The  buildings  are 
new  and  fine.  The  gardens  are  beautiful,  and  there  are 
extensive  greenhouses  filled  with  choice  and  rare  flowers, 
plants,  and  shrubs.  We  were  invited  to  the  campus  with 
its  heavy  greensward,  where  seats  awaited  us.  After  the 
boys  marched  upon  the  grounds  in  their  fresh,  becoming 
uniforms,  the  officers  came  and  saluted  us.  Their  drill 
was  commendable.  When  finished,  the  officers  saluted 
us  again,  and  we  were  then  taken  to  rest-rooms  and  served 
with  tea  and  refreshments. 

Dr.  Hoag  adopted  a  small  Chinese  girl  and  educated 
her.  She  married  a  foreign-educated  Chinese  who  is 
now  a  professor  in  this  school.  He  received  us,  showed 
us  through  grounds,  class-rooms,  library,  museum,  ath- 
letic rooms  —  in  fact  the  whole  school,  and  explained 
its  workings.  This  professor  was  assisted  by  another 
English-speaking,  educated  Chinese.  What  will  be  the 
future  of  China  when  these  hundreds  and  hundreds  of 
educated  young  people  go  out  from  these  schools  as  a 
leaven  into  its  vast  population?  They  are  patient, 
industrious,  ambitious,  quick  to  perceive,  and  with 
accuracy  they  utilize  what  they  learn.  This  Chinese 
school  is  a  marvel  to  me. 

These  two  Chinese  professors  took  us  to  a  large  old 
temple  with  a  very  high  pagoda.  After  being  shown 
through  many  courts,   buildings,   and    rooms    of    gods; 


RICH   TEMPLE  TREASURES        337 

after  climbing  and  descending  the  many  stairs  of  the 
pagoda,  and  being  served  with  tea,  we  were  permitted  to 
see  and  handle  temple  treasures  and  jewels.  In  all  our 
visits  to  temples  we  had  not  known  that  such  things  ex- 
isted. The  treasures  of  this  temple  were  centuries  old, 
and  priceless.  Age  had  not  ruined  them.  The  bone  of 
this  day  is  rich  with  marrow. 

We  visited  the  hospital,  where  the  mission  doctors  are 
giving  their  lives  to  allay  the  sufferings  of  the  poor  un- 
fortunates. Their  hospital  is  small,  and  they  work 
under  great  disadvantages. 

The  hour  came  for  parting  with  our  dear  friends  upon 
the  hill.  We  assembled  in  the  large  room  to  say  our 
good-byes.  The  girls  sang  "  God  be  with  you  till  we  meet 
again."  There  is  a  reserved  force  in  the  Chinese  char- 
acter that  does  not  flood  you,  but  gives  you  time  to  think. 
They  brought  me  a  book  of  many  photographs,  arranged 
by  themselves,  and  a  heart-letter  in  both  English  and 
Chinese.  It  was  a  great  surprise  and  brought  joy.  These 
photographs  illustrating  their  school- work  were  taken  for 
the  Exposition  in  St.  Louis.     As  we  left  for  our  steamer 

I  the  girls  came  out  in  a  body  and  we  waved  our  good-byes 
to  all.  Dr.  Hoag  went  to  the  steamer  with  us.  She  has 
a  rounded  character  and  puts  heart  into  her  work.  We 
arrived  at  Shanghai  December  twenty-first  and  had  a 

:  feast  in  our  mail.  We  cabled  to  your  father  and  received 
an  answer  in  six  hours. 

To-day  a  friend  drove  us  in  his  machine  to  St.  John's 
College,  which  is  several  miles  out  of  the  city.  One  of  the 
professors  showed  us  through  the  beautiful  grounds,  and 
fine,  well-equipped  buildings.     Chinese  classics  are  taught 

i  in  this  school;    and  the  foreign  education  that  is  given 


338  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

equals  that  of  the  standard  college.  English  is  taught 
to  advanced  students.  Many  of  the  well-to-do  Chinese 
merchants'  boys  attend  this  school,  and  are  promising 
young  men.  The  boys  are  very  bright,  and  the  pro- 
fessors uttered  many  laudatory  words  for  them  and  their 
work. 

We  next  visited  the  College  Orphanage  of  sixty  little 
children.  It  was  a  sad  yet  gratifying  sight  to  see  these 
little  children  tenderly  cared  for  on  the  grounds  of  this 
large  institution.  The  library,  manual-training,  gym- 
nasium, and  scientific  departments  are  well  equipped,  and 
the  buildings  are  large  and  modern.  The  grounds  are 
beautiful  and  have  well-kept  drives  and  walks.  The 
thought  in  the  foreign  educational  work  in  China  seems 
to  be  to  raise  the  college  and  university  curriculum  to  the 
usual  college  standard,  and  little  by  little  they  are  succeed- 
ing. In  this  higher  education  the  Protestants  take  the 
lead.  It  is  worth  while  for  every  interested  person  visiting 
China  to  go  to  these  institutions  of  learning  and  see  what 
wonderful  work  is  being  done. 

[To  Daughter  Laura] 

Steamship,  January  6,  IQ05. 
WE  are  still  far  from  our  Legation  home,  but  moving 
toward  Hong  Kong  where  your  father  is  to  meet  us.  We 
arrived  at  Foochow,  December  thirty-first,  and  were 
met  by  Dr.  Gracey,  American  Consul  General,  who  took 
us  to  his  pleasant  Consulate  home  where  we  were  wel- 
comed by  Mrs.  Gracey.  Much  was  done  to  inform  us 
of  the  city  and  its  people  during  our  stay.  Entirely  new 
features  of  Chinese  life  are  here  revealed.     By  visiting 


INTERESTING   FOOCHOW  339 

one  or  two  cities  or  parts  of  China  we  do  not  see  the  Em- 
pire as  a  whole.  Each  city  is  remarkably  its  very  own. 
There  are  no  carts  or  beasts  of  burden  in  Foochow; 
men,  women,  and  children  do  all  sorts  of  work.  Women 
work  in  the  streets  and  carry  heavy  burdens,  but  this  is 
their  legitimate  business.  They  are  not  bold,  but  are 
quiet  in  their  demeanor.  A  new  civilization  in  China 
meets  me  here  at  every  turn.  It  seems  like  a  dream,  as 
we  go  on  and  on  through  these  streets.  Vegetation  is 
semi-tropical.  The  hills,  city,  valley,  and  rivers  are 
alive  with  industries,  and  form  a  rare  picture.  Women 
do  much  work  on  the  water.  Their  sampans  (boats) 
are  clean,  and  so  are  they.  Their  hair  is  well  combed 
and  decorated  with  flowers  and  silver  ornaments.  Their 
children  are  clean,  and  they  lend  helping  hands. 

We  visited  the  missions  and  found  them  alive  with 
activity  in  their  many  lines  of  work.  The  Chinese  are 
reaching  out  for  foreign  ideas  as  never  before.  While 
in  this  attitude  of  thought,  these  ideas  should  be  given  to 
them  abundantly. 

We  heard  on  January  third  that  Port  Arthur  had  been 
captured  by  the  Japanese.     Can  it  be  true  ? 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Drew  of  the  Imperial  Customs  gave  a 
picnic  party  of  eight  to  Kuling.  We  went  in  a  house- 
boat to  the  foot  of  these  high  mountains,  and  took  with 
us  chairs  and  coolies.  The  road  up  the  mountain  was  of 
stone,  with  stone  slab  steps  —  up  —  up  —  up.  The  view 
was  beyond  description,  and  became  grander  and  still 
grander  as  we  ascended.  We  were  in  the  virgin  forest 
of  this  large  temple.  Here  the  trees  have  been  permitted 
to  grow  unmolested  through  the  ages.  We  could  look 
down  from  the  great  heights  upon  the  water  below,  upon 


34Q  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

the  finely  cultivated  fields  of  rice  and  other  grains,  and 
on  to  the  mountains  in  the  distance.  What  a  broad, 
beautiful  expanse  came  within  the  range  of  our  vision! 
After  climbing  this  road  for  more  than  an  hour  we 
reached  the  old  temple  compounds  with  their  many 
temple  buildings.  Here  we  had  our  dainty  tiffin  furn- 
ished by  Mrs.  Drew.  The  view  each  way  was  superbly 
grand.  In  the  deep-cut  ravines  there  were  altar  build- 
ings, erected  in  almost  impossible  places,  with  winding 
walks,  bridges,  and  stone  steps  leading  to  them.  As  we 
went  in  and  out,  it  seemed  so  unnatural  that  we  called 
it  dreamland.  Upon  this  mountain  was  a  large  fish 
lake  fed  by  living  springs.    We  saw  priests  everywhere. 

We  returned  to  our  house-boat,  and  were  soon  off 
for  the  city  after  a  day  full  of  great  pleasure,  given  us 
by  dear  friends  who  know  how  to  entertain  happily. 
On  our  way  home  through  the  streets  we  saw  many 
elaborate  decorations  made  by  Japanese.  The  Japanese 
Consulate  was  aglow  with  all  sorts  of  colored  lanterns, 
streamers,  ships,  and  other  decorations. 

It  is  true;  Port  Arthur  has  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
the  Japanese.  After  dinner  these  wildly  elated  people 
came  to  the  American  Consulate  in  a  body,  with  lighted 
lanterns  and  other  demonstrations.  Their  rejoicings 
were  full  of  the  greatest  glee.  What  will  the  Baltic 
Fleet  do  next  ?  Will  it  turn  back  ?  What  will  Russia  do 
on  land  or  on  sea?  Let  us  hope  that  this  awful  blood- 
shed will  now  end;  its  horrors  are  unwritten,  and  never 
can  be  known  in  history. 

We  visited  missions  on  the  other  side  of  the  river. 
Their  work  is  wonderful,  extending  into  many  avenues. 
Dr.  Hartwell,  of   the   American   Board    Mission,  came 


ROCK  HILLS  MISSION,   SWATOW    341 

laughingly  to  me  with  a  large  book  in  his  hand  and  said, 
"I  have  found  your  name  in  this  Hartwell  book;  you  are 
one  of  our  family." 

The  boys  of  the  officials  and  wealthy  merchants  are 
coming  into  these  mission  schools  and  are  doing  good 
work.  The  thought  of  an  inferior  people  passes  into 
nothingness  when  we  are  with  these  Chinese  boys  and 
girls  and  see  their  pronounced  ability  in  accurately  ac- 
complishing their  undertakings.  All  along  this  won- 
derful trip  I  am  gratefully  happy  in  my  schooling.  It 
almost  seems  as  though  I  were  taking  a  course  in  a 
Heart  and  Mind  University,  and  it  has  been  my  earnest 
prayer  that  I  might  learn  lessons  of  value.  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Gracey  are  delightful  people  and  dear  friends. 
In  sincere  gratitude  we  shall  remember  them  for  all  they 
have  so  bountifully  done  for  our  pleasure. 

We  left  Foochow  yesterday,  and  the  quietness  of  our 
steamer  has  enabled  Miss  Campbell  and  I  to  recall 
many  of  the  events  of  our  stay  in  this  great,  novel  city 
in  South  China. 


[To  a  Nephew] 

Swatow  to  Manila, 
January  p,  1905. 
WE  had  a  most  delightful  trip  in  South  China,  and  then 
continued  our  journey  down  the  southern  coast,  stopping 
for  a  day  at  Swatow,  where  we  visited  the  wide-awake 
mission  on  the  Rock  Hills.  We  purchased  much  of  the 
beautiful  drawn-work  done  by  the  Chinese  in  this  mis- 
sion. These  purchases  helped  the  mission  and  accom- 
modated us.    No  happier  day  have  we  spent  anywhere 


342  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

than  with  these  people  upon  the  rocky  bluffs.  Their 
work  of  love  tells  of  sacrifices  and  devotion. 

We  saw  much  of  the  old  city  of  Amoy,  of  the  for- 
eigners, and  of  their  beautiful  concessions;  but  as  we 
saw  nothing  of  the  Chinese,  I  will  not  write  you  of  our 
visit. 

At  Hong  Kong  I  received  a  cablegram  that  Mr. 
Conger  is  on  his  way  to  join  us.  We  left  for  Canton  at 
once  for  a  short  stay  in  that  wonderful,  old,  old  city,  of 
which  I  have  written  you  before.  Mr.  Conger  joined 
us  in  Hong  Kong,  and  we  were  off  for  the  Philippines 
without  delay.  Before  leaving  Peking  he  sent  his  resigna- 
tion to  the  President  to  take  effect  after  the  inauguration  in 
March.  He  feels  that  he  has  spent  enough  time  in  China 
and  in  public  service.  We  are  going  home  to  make  for 
ourselves  a  fireside  all  our  own,  gather  together  our  be- 
longings, and  enjoy  them. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

Steamer,  March  14.,  igo$. 

OUR  month's  stay  in  the  Philippines  was  most  delight- 
ful and  instructive.  Governor  General  and  Mrs.  Wright's 
hospitality  and  courtesy  added  a  living  glow  to  our  entire 
visit.  We  wished  to  learn  about  the  islands,  the  natives, 
their  productions,  their  civilization,  and  the  effect  of  our 
Government  upon  them.  No  effort  seemed  too  great 
on  the  part  of  our  Government  officials  and  our  friends 
to  enable  us  to  have  these  privileges. 

The  Americans  in  the  Philippines  are  raising  the 
standard  of  the  natives  and  bringing  to  light  through  culti- 
vation wealth  until  now  hidden  in  the  soil  of  these  islands. 


JAPANESE  NAVAL  STATION       343 

They  are  doing  a  wonderful  work,  looking  to  both  beauty 
and  utility.  In  fact  everywhere  we  went  in  those  islands 
we  perceived  the  workings  or  the  touch  of  the  American's 
superior  thought. 

We  arrived  in  Nagasaki,  February  twenty-first,  and 
started  early  over  the  beautiful  hill  roads  for  Mogi. 
The  twenty-fourth,  by  invitation,  we  went  to  Sasebo,  a 
Japanese  naval  station  out  from  Nagasaki  about  sixty 
miles.  The  American  Consul's  interpreter  accompanied 
us.  Officers  met  us  at  the  station  before  we  arrived  at 
Sasebo  and  escorted  us  to  the  Admiral,  who  had  cor- 
dially invited  us  to  visit  his  naval  station.  No  foreign- 
ers are  admitted  on  these  grounds  except  by  permit,  and 
then  all  such  visitors  are  politely  escorted  everywhere,  but 
are  not  made  to  feel  that  they  are  guarded.  We  were 
shown  all  through  the  hospital  wards  —  shown  the  awful 
scars  and  healing  wounds.  There  were  forty  Red  Cross 
Japanese  women  nurses  all  dressed  in  white,  foreign- 
cut  clothes.  They  stood  in  line  and  bowed  low  as  we 
passed;  the  wounded  men  who  were  able  sat  up  in  their 
beds.  Most  of  these  men  were  horribly  mangled  and 
mutilated.  The  army  experienced  greater  losses  and  had 
greater  numbers  wounded  than  the  navy.  This  war  is 
appalling.  The  great  sacrifice  of  life  is  beyond  the 
counting,  and  the  suffering  beyond  measure.  Japan 
stands  united  as  one  man;  such  loyal  patriotism  is  not 
surpassed.  Each  man's  name  is  upon  the  roll,  and  each 
bravely  and  proudly  goes  to  the  front  when  his  coun- 
try calls.  This  Russo-Japanese  War  is  one  of  extreme 
slaughter.  We  are  almost  near  enough  to  see  the 
flowing  rivers  of  blood. 

We  were  taken  to  the   Japanese  Admiral's  home. 


344  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

Here  we  removed  our  shoes  before  entering.  Every- 
thing, everywhere,  was  polished.  We  sat  with  host  and 
hostess  upon  beautiful,  silk-embroidered  cushions  placed 
upon  the  floor.  Shortly  the  Admiral  offered  his  arm  to 
me  and  we  took  the  lead  to  the  dining-room.  After 
dinner  we  were  escorted  through  the  grounds. 

Many  parts  are  already  garden  spots.  Japan  is  striving 
to  make  the  entire  station  a  thing  of  beauty.  We  were 
shown  the  prize  ships  loaded  with  supplies  for  Port 
Arthur.  These  ships  were  captured  by  Japan  and 
brought  into  her  waters.  There  were  many  of  these 
ships,  and  some  were  of  great  value.  It  is  amusing  to 
hear  the  intelligent  Japanese  invariably  answer  your 
questions  with,  "I  do  not  know."  Of  course,  they  cannot 
give  information  that  they  do  not  know,  and  that  settles 
it.  With  great  interest  we  visited  many  parts  of  the 
interior  and  detected  that  through  the  new  strivings  to 
make  Western  ideas  her  own,  old  Japan  is  being  modified 
into  a  new  Japan.  In  the  interior  we  saw  more  of  her 
individuality. 

While  in  the  midst  of  quiet  joys  spending  our  vaca- 
tion in  freedom,  and  resting  from  official  responsibili- 
ties, your  father  received  a  cablegram  from  President 
Roosevelt  transferring  him  from  the  Legation  in  China 
to  the  Embassy  in  Mexico.  Naturally  we  receive  this 
great  compliment  and  promotion  with  gratitude.  It 
was  recognition  of  work  well  done  in  China  under 
most  trying  circumstances.  Through  all  your  father's 
perplexing  official  duties  he  has  received  no  word  of 
criticism  from  his  Government,  but  many  words  of 
appreciation  and  encouragement;  and  this  promotion 
is  a  crown  to  his  political  life. 


GERMAN   PORT  OF  TSINTAN      345 

We  started  for  Peking  at  once,  for  much  was  to  be 
done  officially,  socially,  and  domestically  before  our  de- 
parture from  China.  A  telegram  was  received  from  the 
Viceroy  at  Nanking,  a  friend  of  your  father's,  to  return  to 
Peking  by  way  of  the  Yangtze  and  interior  China,  but 
the  shortness  of  our  time  prevented  the  acceptance  of  this 
cordial  invitation  with  its  wonderful  opportunities.  This 
was  followed  by  another  invitation  to  take  this  route  upon 
leaving  Peking,  and  this  was  accepted.  Much  was  done 
for  us  at  Shanghai,  but  I  will  not  write  of  our  stop  there, 
as  you  must  hear  of  our  visit  to  Tsintan,  a  German  port 
new  to  us. 

March  13.  Monday  we  anchored  at  the  splendid 
wharf  which  the  Germans  have  built  at  this  most  desir- 
able new  port  of  Tsintan.  We  arrived  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  had  a  delightful  day  driving  all  through  the  town 
and  over  many  fine  German  roads  which  lead  into  the 
country.  These  drives  were  a  revelation.  There  are 
fine  foreign  residences  here,  and  large  stores  well  filled 
with  all  sorts  of  foreign  goods;  there  are  commodious 
barracks,  huge  breweries,  massive  forts,  and  excellent 
streets.  The  Germans  have  spent  millions  of  money  and 
evidently  intend  to  stay.  They  have  built  about  three 
hundred  miles  of  good  railroad  into  the  interior. 

In  1898  the  Chinese  gave  a  lease  of  ninety-nine  years 
on  this  part  of  Shantung  as  pay  for  the  lives  of  two  Ger- 
man priests  who  were  killed  in  a  mob.  This  Province  is 
rich  and  fertile.  It  makes  a  fine  port  for  the  Germans, 
and  they  are  making  the  most  of  it  in  a  substantial  way. 
They  have  a  large  army  here,  and  their  fortifications  are 
already  good,  but  they  are  building  other  forts.  Many 
thousands  of  Chinese  are  at  work  upon  these  grounds  to 


346  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

beautify  them  and  make  them  useful  and  strong  in  time 
of  need.  After  a  drive  of  three  hours  we  went  to  Hotel 
Tsintan.  Your  father  called  upon  the  German  Governor, 
who  was  ill,  and  then  joined  us.  After  tiffin  we  again 
drove  for  two  hours.  We  visited  the  Russian  warship, 
Czarevitch,  one  of  the  warships  that  escaped  from  Port 
Arthur  and  fled  for  safety  to  this  German  port.  There 
are  five  Russian  torpedo  boats  tied  up  here.  When  we 
drove  down  the  large,  well-made  German  dock  to  these 
ships  and  approached  the  large  warship  Czarevitch, 
about  which  we  had  heard  and  read  so  much,  we  began 
to  realize  as  never  before  what  battles  upon  the  waters 
must  mean.  Your  father  presented  his  card  to  the  com- 
manding officer,  made  known  his  desire  to  visit  the 
ship,  and  permission  was  granted.  Two  handsome, 
well-uniformed  young  officers  took  us  through  their 
large  dilapidated  ship.  Marks  of  explosive  ammunition 
were  seen  on  every  side,  and  portions  of  the  ship  were 
entirely  gone.  We  saw  the  spot  where  the  Admiral  fell; 
no  part  of  his  body  was  found  but  his  legs.  The  guns 
were  not  harmed.  As  we  departed,  thanking  these  gentle- 
manly officers  for  their  kindness,  we  stood  upon  the  dock 
and  looked  upon  that  huge  monster  with  her  great  guns 
pointing  outward,  and  wondered  why  she  ran  from  the 
enemy.  Why  did  she  not  fight  to  the  bitter  end  ?  Surely 
she  could  have  crippled  the  enemy  and  made  it  easier  for 
the  Baltic  Fleet  to  advance.  But  of  course,  the  Admiral 
must  have  known  what  was  best  for  him  to  do.  It  is 
easy  for  us  to  look  backward  and  ask,  "Why?"  We 
bade  good-bye  to  this  historic  Russian  battleship,  now 
a  prisoner  of  war  for  which  Germany  is  responsible. 

We  have  seen  men  from  Port  Arthur,  and  the  accounts 


JAPANESE  AT  WAR  347 

are  terrible.  To-day  we  hear  of  great  victories  for  the 
Japanese.  The  little  "  Japs"  came  out  ahead  as  usual; 
the  Japanese  know  not  how  to  retreat  or  give  up.  They 
would  go  ahead  as  long  as  there  were  men  to  go.  They 
are  fighting  for  the  existence  of  their  country,  and  will 
not  falter. 

On  a  smooth  sea  we  left  Tsintan  on  the  fourteenth. 
We  are  now  nearing  Tientsin,  and  I  must  close. 


[To  Our  Daughter] 

Steamship  Siberia, 
April  17,  1905. 

WE  have  left  terra  firma  and  are  now  on  God's  domain 
alike  for  all.  The  blue  sky  arches  above  us,  reaches 
down,  and  so  gently  touches  this  broad  expanse  that  we 
cannot  tell  where  they  meet.  I  look  down,  and  it  is  oh, 
so  deep!  This  height,  breadth,  and  depth  are  wonderful. 
We  cannot  hear  what  it  says  to  us,  we  just  have  to  feel 
it  and  know  it.  We  have  really  left  China,  but  we  have 
not  taken  away  with  us  all  our  interests,  appreciation,  and 
affections.  The  Orient  opened  a  wonderful  book  to  us, 
and  left  many  pages  in  our  keeping.  These  pages  are  not 
lost  to  her,  for  such  giving  does  not  impoverish. 

I  will  now  turn  to  my  diary  and  give  you  the  detailed 
events  of  our  last  days  in  China. 

March  17.  We  arrived  in  Peking  to-day  from  our 
delightful  trip  to  South  China,  our  own  Philippines,  and 
Japan.  How  we  do  rejoice  over  reaching  home!  The 
Legation  staff,  all  the  Legation  people,  army  officers, 
guards,  and  friends  welcomed  us  at  the  station.  Our 
servants  and  our  little  dogs  seemed  delighted  to  see  us  as 


348  LETTERS   FROM  CHINA 

we  entered  the  Legation  compound.  Our  home  never 
seemed  so  lovely.  The  second  boy  at  the  head  of  the 
other  servants  (Wang  was  with  us)  has  put  everything  in 
order.  Plants  and  beautiful  flowers  are  everywhere. 
I  am  delighted.  Dinner  was  ready  for  us  as  though  we 
had  been  here  all  the  time.  Our  stay  in  Peking  is  short 
and  the  spending  of  each  day,  almost  of  each  hour,  was 
planned  before  we  reached  home.  To-night  we  have 
sent  invitations  to  all  the  Legation  and  American  army 
people  to  dine  with  us  to-morrow  night. 

March  18.  We  have  sent  out  invitations  for  many 
entertainments.  We  cannot  go  to  all  our  friends,  there- 
fore we  ask  them  to  come  to  us,  as  we  must  see  them 
again.  To-day  we  made  our  official  calls,  and  with  Mrs. 
Headland's  efficient  help,  we  arranged  dates  for  enter- 
taining our  Chinese  friends. 

March  ig.  We  entertained  at  dinner  the  Customs 
people  and  others. 

March  20.  Gave  a  reception  to  missionaries  and 
other  Americans.     Sixty-six  were  present. 

March  21.  Twelve  o'clock  tiffin,  at  which  I  enter- 
tained twenty  Chinese  ladies  and  my  four  helpers  (ladies 
from  the  missions).  Dinner  to  Diplomats;  twenty  at 
table. 

March  22.  Entertained  twenty-two  at  tiffin  — 
Manchu  Princesses,  ladies  from  official  families,  and  my 
helpers. 

March  23.  Manchu  ladies  at  twelve  o'clock  tiffin. 
My  afternoon  "at  home."     Many  callers. 

March  24..  Mr.  Conger's  twelve  o'clock  tiffin  for  high 
Chinese  officials;  sixteen  at  table.  At  three  o'clock 
tiffin  I  entertained  sixteen  Manchu  ladies. 


FAREWELL  ENTERTAINMENTS    349 

March  25.  Tiffin  for  Princesses  and  my  helpers; 
twenty  at  table. 

This  date  is  the  last  of  our  entertaining  at  our  Legation 
home  where  we  have  had  so  very  many  happy  experi- 
ences. The  golden  words  of  friendship,  and  the  beautiful 
expressions  of  affection  are  woven  into  our  thoughts  as 
living  things.     These  busy  days  have  not  been  weary  ones. 

The  visits  of  my  Chinese  friends  this  week  could  not 
have  been  so  full  of  success  had  it  not  been  for  Mrs. 
Headland.  She  faithfully  worked  to  choose  the  right 
ones  in  the  right  companies,  omitting  none.  To  the  many 
other  missionary  helpers  in  my  companies  I  am  greatly 
indebted.  Miss  Campbell's  help  has  been  invaluable. 
She  has  been  a  veritable  sister  and  co-worker  through  all. 
The  servants  did  their  very  best,  never  faltering.  We 
all  worked  together  harmoniously,  hence,  with  success. 
All  that  I  had  to  say  to  Wang  about  the  floral  decorations 
was  to  tell  him  the  color  of  flowers  I  wished  —  red,  yellow, 
white,  or  pink  —  for  the  various  tiffins  and  dinners, 
and  this  color  it  would  be  without  another  suggestion, 
and  all  beautifully  arranged.  Now  our  work  begins 
in  earnest.  We  have  already  dismantled  our  drawing- 
room  since  our  guests  departed.  This  afternoon  boys 
and  coolies  began  at  once.  To-night  we  attend  dinner 
at  the  French  Minister's.  We  are  obliged  repeatedly  to 
send  our  regrets  for  invitations  to  dinners,  tiffins,  and 
other  entertainments.  We  have  accepted  only  a  few  for 
the  coming  week. 

March  27.  I  called  upon  the  Dowager  Princess  K'e, 
who  is  ill.  My  visit  to  this  friend's  home  was  a  sad  one. 
We  had  met  many  times,  and  this  last  visit  was  precious 
to  both  of  us.     Before  I  left,  she  placed  upon  my  fingers 


35o  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

two  exquisite  rings.  From  here  we  called  upon  the  Prin- 
cesses in  the  beautiful  home  of  Prince  Ch'ing;  yes, 
beautiful  in  magnitude,  rich  in  furnishings,  and  lavish  in 
floral  decorations.  These  Princesses  were  exceedingly 
cordial,  and  made  the  visit  a  memorable  one.  We  then 
called  at  Prince  Pu  Lun's  palace.  His  Excellency  Wang 
Kai  Kai,  who  was  educated  in  America,  was  present  and 
assisted  the  Prince  in  conversation.  He  speaks  English 
fluently.  This  is  a  charming  place  to  visit  in  its  quiet 
dignity  and  hospitality.  From  this  delightful  Chinese 
home  we  visited  the  residence  of  His  Excellency  Na  T'ung. 
His  home  is  new  and  is  furnished  with  Chinese  elegance. 
It  contains  treasures  which  great  wealth  and  culture  alone 
can  accumulate. 

In  the  evening  the  American  missionaries  held  a  recep- 
tion for  us  at  Dr.  Lowry's.  Dr.  Lowry  and  Dr.  Wherry 
made  remarks  that  lodged  deep  in  our  hearts.  The 
strong  ties  of  friendship  can  never  be  severed.  These 
dear  friends  presented  us  with  a  beautiful  silk  rug  —  a 
most  precious  gift.  Your  father  responded  in  his  most 
appreciative  way.  As  an  expression  of  their  love  for  Miss 
Campbell  they  gave  her  a  handsome  cloisonne  bowl, 
which  she  gratefully  acknowledged.  Our  hearts  were 
very  full,  and  we  parted  as  we  had  lived,  in  true  friend- 
ship. 

We  accepted  two  more  dinner  invitations,  one  at  the 
British  Legation  and  the  other  at  the  German.  Most 
gracious  words  were  uttered  in  our  honor.  Your  father 
surely  has  won  the  respect  and  affection  of  all  who  have  ) 
been  his  co-workers  in  China  as  well  as  those  for  whom 
he  has  worked.  Nothing  could  be  more  gratifying  to 
your  mother  than  this  recognition  of  your  father's  faith- 


THE  CHINESE  LADIES  351 

ful,  intricate,  successful  work.  The  French,  British,  and 
German  Ministers  spoke  in  commendatory  terms  of  my 
social  efforts  with  the  Chinese  ladies,  including  Her  Maj- 
esty, the  Princesses,  and  the  families  of  Chinese  officials. 
This  I  regard  as  a  significant  recognition,  expressed  as  it 
was  before  their  colleagues  and  to  them.  My  life  is 
surely  richer  for  having  known  the  Empress  Dowager, 
the  Empress,  the  Princesses,  and  the  Chinese  ladies.  We 
are  all  friends.  When  His  Imperial  Majesty,  the  Emperor 
of  China,  presents  his  hand  it  seems  cordially  done. 
The  brightness  of  his  eye,  and  the  smile  upon  his  face 
tell  of  a  welcome  that  his  lips  do  not  utter.  I  know 
little  of  the  princes  and  gentlemen  of  China,  aside  from 
the  fact  that  they  are  cordial  and  respectful.  My  great 
desire  has  been  to  know  their  wives  and  daughters,  and 
with  courteous  recognition  of  this  desire,  the  husbands 
and  fathers  have  granted  me  this  privilege. 

It  seems  that  the  heavens  have  given  us  their  beautiful 
smiles  to  light  our  every  step  as  we  are  rounding  up  our 
days  in  China.  May  the  dear  Father  guide  our  steps  in 
the  new  field  in  Mexico. 

My  friends  among  the  Chinese  ladies  asked  Mrs. 
Headland  what  they  could  give  me  that  would  be  most 
acceptable.  Without  hesitation  she  replied,  "Your 
photographs."  Among  my  most  highly  prized  treasures 
is  this  collection  of  photographs.  Each  lady  and  child 
whom  I  knew  sent  me  their  pictures.  With  happy  rec- 
ollections I  shall  many  times  through  the  years  to  come 
look  at  these  pictures,  recall  and  hear  again  the  words  of 
these  ladies,  feel  the  gentle  hand  touch,  and  read  their 
thoughts  through  their  lighted  faces.  Nothing  could 
have  been  more  acceptable  than  these  photographs,  even 


352  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

though  they  are  all  in  black  and  white  and  void  of  the 
rich  Chinese  coloring. 

April  i.  What  can  I  say  of  this  wonderful  day! 
Arrangements  had  been  made  for  your  father  to  have  his 
last  audience  with  Their  Majesties  on  this  date,  and  for 
my  audience  to  follow  his.  Your  father  took  his  staff  of 
four,  and  I  took  Miss  Campbell,  and  my  private  inter- 
preter. 

Although  your  father  had  been  Minister  in  China, 
Her  Imperial  Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager,  decorated 
him  with  a  special  Order  of  the  Double  Dragon,  as 
Ambassador,  the  rank  of  his  new  post  in  Mexico.  Her 
Majesty  also  presented  to  him  a  banner  painted  by  her 
own  hand  for  this  occasion.  He  acknowledged  the 
compliment,  but  informed  Her  Majesty  that  he  would 
place  these  gifts  in  the  care  of  the  American  Department 
of  State  until  such  time  as  he  could  accept  them.  But 
above  all  in  value  were  the  reassuring  words  that  at  the 
Court  of  China  he  was  respected,  trusted,  and  honored. 

My  audience  followed.  After  the  throne  formalities, 
we  were  seated  and  as  one  woman  with  another,  the 
Empress  Dowager  and  I  conversed.  I  related  to  Her  i 
Majesty  much  of  what  I  saw  of  her  people  and  their  pro- 
ductions  in  South  China;  I  told  her  how  they  celebrated 
her  seventieth  birthday.  We  talked  of  the  Imperial 
factories  and  their  beautiful  fabrics;  of  the  schools,  and 
of  much  else.  She  seemed  deeply  interested  in  hearing 
of  her  China  as  I  really  saw  it.  We  spoke  of  her  portrait 
in  Washington,  of  our  many  interviews  and  visits  together, 
and  of  our  understanding  and  friendship  growing  out  of 
them.  Her  Majesty  had  made  for  me  a  decoration,  the 
first  of  this  high  rank  ever  bestowed  by  China  upon  aif 


A   "GOOD-LUCK  STONE"  353 

foreign  lady.  Other  gifts  and  one  of  China's  choicest 
"feasts"  had  been  sent  to  the  Legation  in  yellow  silk 
boxes  tied  with  yellow  cord.  All  proclaimed  in  beautiful 
characters  the  good  wishes  of  Her  Majesty,  and  for  all  I 
expressed  my  deepest  appreciation. 

Our  good-byes  were  said,  and  as  I  was  leaving  Her 
Majesty's  presence  I  was  asked  to  return.  Her  inter- 
preter placed  in  my  hand  a  "good-luck  stone" — a  blood 
jade,  with  these  words:  "Her  Majesty  has  taken  this 
good-luck  stone  from  her  person  and  wishes  to  give  it  to 
you  to  wear  during  your  long  journey  across  the  great 
waters,  that  you  may  safely  arrive  in  your  honorable 
country."  This  stone  is  not  beautiful  to  the  eye,  but  I 
took  it  as  the  most  beautiful  thing  I  had  received  from 
Her  Majesty's  hand.  I  pinned  it  upon  my  person,  and 
I  am  wearing  it  now  in  sweet  memory  of  the  protecting 
thought  that  made  it  mine. 

When  I  reached  home  Wang  observed  the  stone,  and 
said,  "That  Blood  Stone  grand  thing.  No  Chinaman, 
much  money,  can't  get  like  that."  Later  I  learned  that 
Her  Majesty  wished  me  to  know  the  history  of  the  stone. 
This  I  learned  through  a  Court  Princess.  The  stone  had 
been  worn  by  some  one  of  China's  rulers  for  two  thousand 
years,  and  the  present  Empress  Dowager  had  worn  it 
during  her  reign,  during  the  siege  of  1900,  in  her  flight, 
during  her  stay  hundreds  of  miles  from  her  palace  home, 
and  during  her  return  to  her  own  Peking  and  Forbidden 
City,  and  it  had  protected  her  through  all  dangers.  This 
protecting  power  she  wished  to  go  with  me  in  my  journey 
homeward.  My  gratitude  was  great,  and  my  reply 
sincere. 

April  3.    Your  father,  Miss  Campbell,  and  I  took  our 


354  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

last  walk  on  the  city  wall.  The  Western  Hills  stood  out 
boldly.  The  cities  —  Native,  Tartar,  Imperial,  and 
Forbidden,  spread  out  before  us  as  a  story  picture,  and 
many  memories  presented  themselves.  We  visited  the 
partially  completed  Legation  buildings  and  called  on  the 
American  army  officers  and  their  families;  then,  coming 
into  our  own  Legation  quarters,  we  visited  with  our  home 
people.  First  we  called  on  Mr.  Coolidge  in  his  artistic, 
richly  furnished  quarters.  Always  we  received  a  glad 
welcome  in  this  home.  We  then  called  on  Mr.  Fletcher, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Williams,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Haskins,  Mr. 
Nealy  —  in  fact  upon  all  our  American  Legation  people. 
For  five  years  Mr.  Williams  has  been  Secretary-interpreter 
in  this  Legation.  He  is  a  loyal  American,  a  scholarly 
man,  affable  in  manners,  and  works  to  the  honor  of  the 
Legation.  He  is  respected  and  admired  by  the  Chinese 
as  well  as  by  the  other  nationalities.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wil- 
liams are  thorough  Chinese  scholars,  and  with  theii 
ability  and  willingness  to  impart  their  information  the) 
are  efficient  workers.  Their  two  little  daughters  are  joy! 
among  us. 

April  4.  At  five  o'clock  A.  m.  we  ate  our  last  meal  h 
Peking.  As  we  started  to  the  station,  the  servants  be 
gan  firing  big  fire-crackers  and  hundreds  of  small  one 
woven  together  with  long  strings.  This  firing  was  lorn 
and  long.  The  servants  were  all  dressed  in  their  best  an! 
gracefully,  in  their  accustomed  ways,  said  their  gooc 
byes.  Wang  and  first  cook  went  with  us.  When  w 
reached  the  station,  even  though  it  was  early  in  th 
morning,  many  friends  greeted  us.  All  the  members  < 
the  Chinese  Foreign  Office  were  there,  also  other  higJ 
officials.    Nearly  all  the  Diplomats,  Sir  Robert  Hart,  aiT 


FAREWELL   TO   PEKING  355 

many  others  of  the  Customs  staff,  missionaries  from  far 
and  near,  and  all  our  Legation  and  army  people,  and 
other  Americans.  Last,  but  not  least,  our  servants  of 
to-day  and  of  days  past  were  at  the  station  to  say  their 
good  wishes.  Beautiful  flowers  were  piled  high  in  our 
car.  The  whistle  blew,  and  we  were  off.  Gratitude  sent 
back  its  love-thoughts  to  those  dear  people  upon  the  plat- 
form waving  their  good  wishes.  We  waved  and  waved 
back  as  long  as  we  could  catch  a  glimpse  of  them.  No 
honors  could  have  been  dearer  to  us  than  was  their  pres- 
ence on  this  parting  occasion. 

We  went  overland  by  rail  through  the  Yellow  River 
district  to  Han  Kow.  The  Chinese  officials  made  all 
arrangements  for  us.  The  Viceroy  at  Nanking  had  writ- 
ten to  your  father  again  inviting  us  to  take  this  most 
enjoyable  trip.  Surely  everything  was  done  for  our 
comfort  and  pleasure.  We  had  a  private  car  containing 
a  large  sitting-room  furnished  with  sofa-beds  and  other 
necessary  furniture.  There  was  one  bedroom  with  all 
modern  conveniences,  and  there  was  a  smoking-room, 
a  pantry,  and  a  kitchen.  Lao  Hu  and  Mo  Moi  Yu,  the 
little  dogs  given  me  by  the  Empress  Dowager,  are  taking 
the  journey  with  us.  As  we  moved  on  through  the  city 
and  country  which  had  become  familiar  to  us  in  our  horse- 
back rides,  we  looked  out  upon  them  in  the  joys  of  sweet 
memories.  At  every  station  Chinese  officials  and  sol- 
diers were  present  to  pay  their  respects  to  your  father. 
The  officials  sent  into  the  car  their  large  red  cards,  with 
a  message  that  a  " feast"  was  prepared  for  His  Excel- 
lency. As  your  father  could  not  go  out  to  them,  the 
"feast"  was  placed  upon  the  car,  and  they  were  invited 
into  our  car  and  served  with  tea.     These  minor  officials, 


356  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

highest  in  those  localities,  had  been  telegraphed  from 
Peking,  and  they  did  their  best  to  make  our  journey  a 
pleasant  one.    At  one  place  a  Chinese  band  was  playing. 

The  day  has  been  fine  and  restful.  We  reached 
Paoting  Fu  at  eleven  in  the  morning.  A  Chinese  "feast" 
had  been  prepared  and  officials  came  to  welcome  "His 
Excellency."  Mr.  Killie,  one  of  our  siege  friends,  whom 
you  know,  accompanied  your  father  to  this  "feast." 
All  the  missionaries  in  Paoting  Fu  came  in  a  body  to  the 
station  to  greet  us;  even  the  dear  children  came,  and  we 
had  a  good  visit,  though  it  was  short.  Many  of  these 
people  were  siege  companions  and  they  inquired  for  you 
and  Mary.  We  decorated  our  car  with  the  many  beau- 
tiful flowers  given  us  in  Peking  and  Paoting  Fu,  besides 
having  many  on  the  table. 

This  is  the  season  for  making  pilgrimages  to  the  ceme- 
teries and  the  graves.  As  we  pass  through  the  country, 
we  see  thousands  and  thousands  of  graves  made  into 
cone-shaped  mounds.  On  the  very  top  of  each  are 
placed  a  printed  prayer  and  green  grass.  The  prayer 
and  the  tuft  of  green  are  marked  tributes  to  the  departed. 
The  meaning  in  them  is  a  sealed  secret  to  us.  As  I 
looked  upon  those  decorated  graves  and  reflected,  I 
could  detect  kindred  thoughts  held  by  these  Chinese 
people  and  by  our  own  people  at  home. 

More  officials  called  at  each  large  station  until  we  : 
reached  the  Yellow  River.    This  river  is  China's  sorrow 
At  times  it  floods  the  country,   destroying    everything 
and   everybody   in   its  raging  anger.     This  destruction  ■; 
reaches  over  a  vast  territory. 

April  6.    We  reached  the  broad  river  bed  with  it 
now  shallow  waters  this  morning.    The  high  winds  c 


CROSSING  THE  YELLOW  RIVER   357 

yesterday  had  made  it  impossible  for  our  special  boat 
to  come  up  the  river;  hence  we  took  two  smaller  ones, 
one  for  ourselves  and  one  for  our  baggage.  We  had  an 
interesting  and  exciting  time  crossing.  It  took  a  long 
while,  and  our  skilled  oarsmen  had  to  work,  and  at  times 
quickly,  to  keep  off  the  sand  bars,  which  we  kept  weaving 
between  and  around  in  a  coaxing  way.  When  we  neared 
the  shore  for  which  we  had  been  striving,  word  was  sent 
to  us,  "Water  too  deep  for  your  feet  and  too  shallow  for 
your  boat."  We  were  told  that  we  must  ascend  an  iron 
ladder  which  was  attached  to  the  high  bridge.  This 
we  did  —  and  up,  up,  up,  we  went  in  the  straightest 
line  "heavenward"  that  we  ever  took.  We  had  to  do 
it,  hence  we  kept  right  on  climbing  until  we  reached  the 
top  of  that  giant  railroad  bridge. 

This  bridge,  which  is  one  and  one-half  miles  long,  is 
in  process  of  construction,  and  thousands  of  Chinese 
were  working  under  the  direction  of  foreigners. 

A  private  car  awaited  us.  It  was  new  and  most 
beautifully  furnished  and  divided  into  compartments 
like  our  former  one.  Wang  and  the  cook  brought  from 
home  everything  for  our  use,  even  to  ice  and  distilled 
water.  Your  father  is  happily  resting;  Miss  Campbell 
is  bright  and  cheery.  We  are  having  the  happy  days  of 
a  good  ending  of  our  seven  years  in  China.  The  coun- 
try through  which  we  are  passing  is  productive,  and  the 
people  industrious.  We  passed  through  the  land  of  the 
"giant  date"  which  the  Chinese  ladies  in  Peking  often 
sent  to  us  as  a  choice  gift.  As  China  has  her  local  indus- 
tries, the  traveller  is  continually  making  new  discoveries. 

April  g.  Trains  do  not  run  at  night,  but  we  were  off 
again  at  eight  o'clock.    We  passed  through  rich,  beau- 


358  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

tiful  country.     China's  soil  does  not  seem  to  weary  in 
work  well  done  any  more  than  do  her  people. 

The  Superintendent  of  the  railroad,  an  interesting 
Frenchman,  came  from  Han  Kow  to  meet  us  at  one  of 
the  stations.  He  said  that  at  Wang  Kia  Tien  we  would 
see  people  making  pilgrimages  to  a  temple  high  upon 
the  hills.  As  we  approached,  it  was  a  strange  sight  to 
see  the  hundreds  of  Chinese  men,  women,  and  children 
making  their  way  up  and  down  that  great  height.  They 
were  all  dressed  in  their  best  —  best  in  quality  and  in 
colorings.  The  women  and  girls  with  their  small  bound 
feet  were  making  this  pilgrimage.  Perhaps  this  visit  and 
the  visits  to  the  tombs  of  their  ancestors  are  in  some  way 
connected.  This  railroad  Superintendent  told  us  that 
many  of  these  people  came  on  the  trains  from  ten  to  a 
hundred  miles  to  visit  this  sacred  temple.  The  hill- 
sides were  thronged  with  people.  Harmonious  thoughts 
seemed  to  be  guiding  their  footsteps,  as  there  was  no 
hurry,  no  confusion,  no  strife,  in  their  movements. 

We  reached  Han  Kow  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
The  Consul,  his  daughter,  and  the  Vice-Consul,  friends 
of  ours,  met  us  at  the  station,  and  we  were  delightfully 
entertained  in  their  home.  The  Viceroy  called,  and  sent 
beautiful  gifts.  He  also,  at  your  father's  request,  granted 
buttons  of  lowest  rank  to  our  first  boy  Wang  and  to  our 
first  cook,  in  recognition  of  their  faithful  services.  They 
were  required  to  tell  name,  age,  in  what  month  they  were  I 
born,  their  father's  and  grandfather's  names,  and  much 
else.  All  was  to  be  registered  on  the  paper  granting  the 
button.  These  servants  showed  delight  over  this  honor 
and  wore  these  buttons  in  their  hats  with  justifiable  pride. 

Of  the  Yangtze  River  and  the  interesting  cities  along 


ADIEU   TO   THE  ORIENT  359 

its  shores,  the  beautiful  country,  the  delightful  people, 
and  our  friends,  I  have  written  you  before.  I  will  only 
ask  you  to  tarry  with  us  at  Nanking,  for  that  is  the  home 
of  the  Viceroy,  Joe  Fu,  who  invited  your  father  to  take 
this  wonderful  trip  into  interior  China.  The  steamer 
reached  Nanking  late,  but  the  American  Consul  was 
ready  to  take  your  father  at  once  to  call  upon  the  Vice- 
roy, who  had  sent  his  private  carriages  to  take  our  party 
to  his  home.  The  Viceroy  had  been  waiting,  and  tiffin 
had  been  prepared,  since  twelve  o'clock.  The  welcome 
and  the  interview  were  most  cordial. 

Miss  Campbell  and  I  were  taken  to  the  American 

<  Consulate    where    we    were    most    hospitably    received. 

.  At  eight  o'clock  the  Consul  gave  a  reception.     The  gen- 

;  tlemen  reported  a  most  satisfactory  visit  with  His  Ex- 
cellency, the  Viceroy.  Your  father  said  that  he  never 
before  attended  a  gathering  of  Chinese  officials  where 
so  many  of  them  spoke  English.  In  South  China  the 
English  language  is  more  generally  spoken  by  the  Chi- 
nese than  in  the  North. 

Our  nine  days'  stay  in  Shanghai  was  full  to  the  brim 
with  calls,  dinners,  tiffins,  receptions,  shopping,  and 
attending  to  baggage.  Shanghai  was  the  first  to  wel- 
come us  to  China,  and  she  was  the  last  to  say  good-byes. 
On  April  twenty-second  we  boarded  the  beautiful 
Siberia,  and  were  homeward  bound.  As  we  sat  on  the 
captain's  bridge  and  waved  our  final  adieus  to  our  Orient 
home,  we  detected  many  colorings  in  the  brush-strokes  of 

,  this  life  picture,  seven  years  in  the  painting.  We  have 
descended  from  the  bridge  and  entered  our  little  cabin. 
Here  comes  a  broadness  of  thought  that  reaches  high, 

;  far,  and  deep.    This  thought  is  freighted  with  gratitude. 


360  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

[To  a  Sister] 

Steamship  Siberia,  April  28,  igo$. 

THE  Chinese  have  good  minds  and  warm  hearts,  and 
the  seeker  to  know  them  can  detect  much  of  value. 
Would  that  I  could  express  in  words  what  I  have  con- 
ceived the  possibilities  to  be  in  the  development  of  the  char- 
acters of  the  Chinese  ladies  in  foreign  lines.  The  whole 
world  detects  the  dawn  of  broader  thoughts,  and  in  clearer 
light  the  boundaries  of  narrower  thoughts  pass  away. 

After  the  troubles  of  1900  were  settled  and  the  nations 
joined  hands  of  friendship  with  China,  China  had  no 
reason  for  loving  the  Christian  nations  more  than  before; 
but,  true  to  the  Chinese  character,  she  accepted  the 
situation,  and  in  an  outward  spirit  acted  as  though  she 
wished  to  do  so.  Whether  she  were  sincere  or  not  was 
never  questioned  in  my  mind.  I,  too,  accepted  the  sit- 
uation and  improved  even  the  slightest  opportunity  to 
mingle  with  these  people.  These  slight  opportunities 
grew  into  greater  and  still  greater  ones.  Rigid  formalities 
were  replaced  by  smiling  cordialities,  and  later  crowned  j 
with  warm  friendships.  When  the  Chinese  learned  that 
I  was  sincerely  interested  in  their  country,  and  in  them  \ 
individually,  in  their  customs  and  ways  of  living,  they 
said,  "Come.  You  shall  see  and  know  as  you  like." 
Much  courtesy  and  hospitality  passed  between  us.  I  was  I 
invited  to  many  of  their  feast-day  celebrations,  and  to 
services  of  their  heart-sorrows.  No  criticism  was  in  my 
thought.  I  rejoiced  with  them,  and  wept  with  them.  I 
Above  rigid  forms  and  rituals  our  hearts  met,  and  they 
spoke  a  common  language.  With  clasped  hands  and 
face-to-face  prayers  we  said  our  good-byes. 


CHINESE  AND   MANCHUS  361 

The  Manchu  and  Chinese  ladies  do  not  intermingle. 
When  they  entertained  me  at  their  homes  or  when  I 
entertained  them,  they  were  all  Manchus  or  all  Chinese. 
The  Manchu  women  have  natural  feet  and  retain  their 
Manchu  costume.  The  Chinese  women  have  bound  feet 
and  retain  their  Chinese  costumes.  The  men,  however, 
all  wear  the  Chinese  costume  and  the  Manchu  queue. 
They  hold  offices  and  intermingle  officially  and  socially. 
As  a  nation,  all  are  called  Chinese. 

The  Chinese  are  not  impulsive ;  they  ponder  a  question 
before  they  act  upon  it.  As  I  look  back  and  recall  the 
conversations  Her  Majesty  has  granted  me  and  those 
held  with  the  Manchu  Princesses  and  with  the  Chinese 
ladies,  and  now  detect  the  uniform  movement  for  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  outer  world,  I  am  persuaded  that  it  has  been 
premeditated,  sanctioned,  and  encouraged  by  Her  Majesty. 
The  iron  bands  of  stern  customs  are  being  severed  ap- 
parently without  a  jar.  Unity  of  thought  and  action 
seems  to  be  melting  these  bands  asunder.  May  these 
people  feel,  even  though  they  do  not  acknowledge,  the 
guiding  Christ-hand  in  their  new,  untried  pathways. 

For  three  months  last  year  I  travelled  down  the  coast, 
up  the  Yangtze  and  the  Grand  Canal,  visiting  missions, 
schools,  and  colleges  for  Chinese,  both  native  and  foreign. 
I  also  visited  many  native  industries,  as  I  wished  to  learn 
all  that  I  could  of  what  the  Chinese  were  doing  and  were 
capable  of  doing.  A  wonderful  revelation  was  given  to 
me.  I  found  in  the  Chinese  fundamental  qualities  not  to 
be  surpassed,  upon  which  to  build  the  Christian  living. 
Their  great  love  for  parents,  for  the  aged,  for  children,  for 
music,  for  pets  of  all  kinds,  for  flowers,  and  for  trees; 
their  reaching  out  to  a  power  beyond  themselves;   their 


362  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

steadfastness,  their  great  memories,  their  accuracy,  their 
sober  watchfulness,  their  quiet  forbearance,  their  innate 
politeness,  their  unequalled  obedience  to  law,  their  civility 
to  guests,  their  trustworthy  honesty,  their  devout  respect 
for  education,  and  their  industrious  habits,  all  combine  to 
show  the  making  of  a  strong  character  of  a  strong  people 
that  will  in  time  stand  with  the  sisterhood  of  the  great 
nations.  The  Chinese  are  so  thorough,  patient,  and 
steadfast  in  what  they  undertake  to  do,  that  when  they 
start  upon  the  new  road  they  will  show  a  power  that  we 
dream  not  of,  and  will  surprise  the  nations.  In  an  effec- 
tive way  China  will  resent  the  gross  wrongs  imposed  upon 
her.  This  old  giant  nation  is  not  weak  in  her  people. 
The  truly  Christian  world  should  lend  her  a  hand.  In 
the  unity  of  the  Christ-spirit  let  us  pray,  watch,  and  work 
all  together  for  the  best  good  of  this  great  Empire  with 
her  millions  of  people,  and  thus  add  her  strength  for  the 
uplifting  of  all  humanity. 

The  English  language  is  steadily  but  slowly  weaving 
itself  into  China's  education.  Some  of  her  young  men 
go  abroad  for  study  and  return  with  a  knowledge  of 
English,  but  most  of  this  knowledge  among  the  Chinese 
is  obtained  in  the  mission  schools  and  colleges  here  in 
China.  There  is  an  effort  to  make  it  possible  for  the 
Chinese  to  acquire  a  broader  foreign  education  in  their 
own  home  land.  By  carefully  studying  these  efforts  in 
their  schools  and  colleges,  I  find  that  they  are  making  a 
living  progress.  For  many  years  English  was  not  taught 
in  the  mission  schools,  as  the  missionaries  wished  to  keep 
the  educated  native  converts  as  helpers  in  their  religious 
work.  English-speaking  Chinese  were  in  great  demand 
among  the  business  men  of  the  coast  cities  and  were  at- 


PALACE  OF   PRINCE   SU  363 

tracted  to  these  places.  Now,  the  schools  are  many,  and 
there  are  thousands  of  these  students  going  out  yearly 
from  the  small  and  larger  schools,  and  hundreds  of  them 
can  speak,  read,  and  write  the  English  language.  Where- 
ever  these  Christianly  educated  people  go,  they  take  their 
convictions  and  influence  with  them.  It  is  not  lost  in  the 
business  and  social  world,  nor  in  home  life. 

China's  customs  of  long  standing  will  not  permit  her 
people  to  mingle  outside  of  their  rank;  hence  the  titled 
and  official  people  and  their  families  cannot  attend 
mission  nor  public  schools.  For  the  last  two  years  of  my 
stay  in  the  Orient  there  has  been  a  manifestly  growing 
desire  among  the  higher-class  ladies  to  know  something 
beyond  their  walls.  A  Princess  used  to  visit  me  who  was 
a  member  of  the  family  of  one  of  the  "  iron-capped "  Su 
princes.  This  family  is  strong  in  character  and  highly 
educated  according  to  Chinese  standards.  Their  palace 
was  within  our  fortifications  during  the  troubles  of  1900, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  vacate  it.  It  was  filled  with 
most  elegant,  costly  treasures,  the  gatherings  of  centuries, 
and  we  strove  to  protect  them.  The  Boxers  set  fire  to 
this  palace  and  burned  these  valuables,  which  no  money, 
time,  nor  love  could  replace.  I  often  welcomed  this 
Princess  to  my  home  and  gained  much  information  from 
her.  I  asked  how  and  where  she  obtained  such  an  ex- 
tensive knowledge  of  her  country's  history  and  customs  in 
detail.  She  replied  in  earnest  words,  "My  father's  home 
was  filled  with  everything  by  which  to  educate  his  children. 
My  father,  his  father,  his  father's  father,  many  generations 
back,  were  ambitious  for  their  name,  for  their  home,  and 
for  the  members  of  their  home."  She  raised  her  hands 
and  dropped  them  again  almost  in  despair  and  said, 


364  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

"It  is  all  gone!  Wiped  away!  What  is  there  now  for 
our  children?  Through  your  forbearance  I  bring  them 
to  your  home." 

Another  Princess  of  this  family  married  a  Mongolian 
Prince.  (You  will  recall  that  I  have  mentioned  these 
Princesses  before.)  This  Mongolian  Princess  came  to  me 
one  day  when  in  Peking  to  see  if  in  some  way  I  could  not 
intercede  with  the  Empress  Dowager  in  behalf  of  her 
husband.  She  wished  that  they  might  go  to  America  to 
the  St.  Louis  Exposition,  but  did  not  wish  to  intrude  this 
wish  upon  Their  Majesties.  The  thought  was  not  the 
"Exposition,"  but  an  opportunity  to  get  to  America,  in 
order  to  obtain  information  about  mining.  Mongolia 
is  full  of  rich  ores,  and  they  wished  to  gain  knowledge 
that  would  enable  them  to  reap  the  benefit  of  these  riches 
at  their  feet.  It  is  needless  to  say  it,  but  I  did  not  take 
this  message  to  Their  Majesties.  This  Princess  founded 
a  school  for  Mongolian  women  and  girls.  She  took  fifteen 
of  them  to  Peking  as  a  part  of  their  education.  This  high 
Princess  ignored  the  deep  chasm  which  separated  her  in 
rank  from  the  common  people  and  took  her  school  girls  to 
one  of  our  American  mission  schools,  and  spoke  encourag- 
ing words  to  these  mission  school  girls.  Her  girls  sang  and 
she  played  upon  the  organ  for  them.  This  Mongolian 
Princess  again  ignored  the  deep  chasm  of  custom  and  rank, 
and  invited  Mrs.  Chang,  one  of  the  three  Hsu  sisters,  to 
return  with  her  and  her  school  girls  to  Mongolia.  A 
recent  letter  received  from  this  Chinese  lady  tells  me  of  her 
trip,  of  the  country,  and  of  their  progressive  school  work. 
Their  friendship  for  each  other  seems  deep  and  genuine, 
although  they  are  Manchu  Princess  and  Chinese  lady. 
This  Princess  also  took  with  her  an  educated  Japanese 


TEACHERS   OF   ENGLISH  365 

woman  as  a  helper  in  forwarding  her  new  undertakings 
among  her  people.  Almost  like  magic,  many  schools  for 
girls  and  boys  are  springing  up  in  China,  with  much  in 
them  of  foreign  methods.  Many  ladies  of  the  higher 
classes  have  said  to  me,  "We  wish  our  daughters  to  learn 
English.  Our  customs  will  not  permit  them  to  attend  the 
schools.  Through  you  could  we  not  obtain  some  one  to 
teach  a  class  in  our  homes?  Could  not  one  of  your 
American  missionaries  come?"  I  had  to  tell  them  that 
our  missionaries  had  special  work  that  filled  their  hours 
to  overflowing.  I  presented  this  reaching  out  toward 
our  missionaries  in  great  earnestness  to  the  mission 
workers.  It  seemed  to  be  a  missionary  work  in  a  mission 
field  that  was  asking  them  to  come.  I  admitted  that  we 
could  not  see  now  what  the  harvest  would  be ;  but  surely, 
some  of  the  good  seed  would  take  root,  grow,  and  bear 
fruit  to  the  nourishment  of  heart  and  mind. 

As  yet,  these  Chinese  do  not  seem  to  reach  out  for 
Christianity,  but  this  may  be  God's  way  of  sending  them 
to  seek  and  find  the  Christ.  Our  missionaries'  hands  and 
hearts  were  too  full,  and  workers  too  few,  to  respond  to 
this  call.  The  Japanese,  ever  watchful  and  ready,  took 
the  extended  hand,  and  are  now  teaching  English  and 
foreign  ideas  to  these  higher-class  Chinese.  But  if  we  did 
all  that  we  could,  it  is  better  thus. 

[To  Princess  Shun] 

Pasadena,  California, 
March  20,  1906. 
MAY  I,  through  you,  extend  my  most  cordial  greet- 
lgs,  and  loving  gratitude  to  Her  Imperial  Majesty,  the 


366  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

Empress  Dowager  of  China,  for  so  kindly  remembering 
me  in  sending  across  the  seas  these  beautiful  palace  pic- 
tures. Officially  my  thanks  were  extended  to  Her  Maj- 
esty, but  official  fixed  rules  do  not  utter  woman's  thoughts 
to  woman.  These  precious  gifts  add  still  more  value  to 
the  already  long  list  which  I  highly  prize.  Through  them 
I  read  the  old,  old  story  of  sympathy  and  love,  and  they 
recall  to  me  the  thoughtful,  earnest  words  of  Her  Majesty's 
conversation.  I  watch  with  intense  interest  the  new 
lines  of  work  that  are  being  taken  up  by  her  people  and 
my  best  wishes  are  with  Their  Majesties,  their  Court,  and 
their  vast  Empire. 

May  the  time  come  when  all  nations  shall  join  hands 
in  true  friendship.  Her  Majesty's  bountiful  gift  extended 
to  our  country  in  her  late  disaster  is  rich  in  its  expression 
of  sympathy  and  good  will.  I  love  to  talk  with  my  people 
of  Their  Majesties,  the  Princesses,  and  the  Chinese  ladies, 
as  I  have  seen  and  known  them.  Your  friendship  I  will 
always  remember.  Her  Majesty,  your  Imperial  sister, 
found  a  warm  place  in  my  heart  and  is  treasured  there. 
Please  extend  to  the  Imperial  Princess  my  cordial  greetings 
and  to  the  other  Princesses  my  best  of  good  wishes. 

Would  that  I  could  welcome  you  to  my  new  American 
home,  which  is  graced  with  many  beautiful  Chinese  treas- 
ures. My  great  happiness  in  this  home  does  not  make 
me  forget  my  dear  friends  in  China.  Again,  and  again 
I  look  at  your  many  photographs  and  they  almost  speak 
to  me. 


Princess  Shun,  Sister  of  the  Empress  and  Niece  of  the 
Empress  Dowager 


THE  EMPRESS   DOWAGER  367 

[To  an  Aunt] 

Pasadena,  California, 
November  4,  igo6. 

THE  following  statements  I  lovingly  and  gladly  write 
in  answer  to  the  first  favor  you  have  ever  asked  of  me. 
China  and  her  people  hold  a  warm  place  in  my  thoughts 
and  I  would  like  to  say  much  in  this  letter  regarding  them. 
My  hours  are  too  full  to  prepare  a  paper  for  you,  so  in 
love  I  commit  these  pages,  hoping  that  they  may  serve 
you  in  making  up  the  programme  for  your  club  day. 

Her  Majesty,  the  Empress  Dowager  of  China,  is  one 
of  the  strong  characters  of  history.  Our  many  interviews 
were  long  and  full  of  deep  interest  and  profit.  I  will  not 
undertake  to  give  you  a  book  sketch  of  Her  Majesty's 
life,  but  will  endeavor  to  portray  this  life  as  I  saw  it  and 
knew  it.  Those  who  know  of  this  strong  woman's  early 
life  testify  that  she  was  an  educated  and  beautiful  woman 
when  the  Emperor  Hsien  Feng  took  her  as  his  first  second- 
ary wife.  She  bore  him  a  son,  who  became  Emperor  and 
died  in  youth.  The  first  wife  and  the  present  Empress 
Dowager  ruled  jointly.  After  the  death  of  the  former, 
the  present  Dowager  Empress  practically  became  the 
ruler.  She  chose  and  adopted  as  her  own  child  the  young 
son  of  her  deceased  husband's  brother  as  the  coming 
Emperor,  and  he  to-day  is  the  ruling  Emperor  of  China, 
Kwang   Hsu. 

China,  with  her  centuries  of  history,  is  no  child  in  her 
thought  and  actions.  Of  old  her  people  took  no  thought 
of  personal  comforts,  as  we  count  comforts.  Time  and 
labor  to  them  were  simply  mediums  through  which  to 
perfect  their  work.    The  productions  of  those  days  stand 


368  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

even  now  proclaiming  in  unfaltering  tones  the  patient 
and  enduring  love-thought  and  labor  which  fashioned 
and  produced  them.  The  Chinese  formerly  built  for  all 
time,  and  there  is  much  to-day  over  twenty  centuries  old 
that  proclaims  the  quality  of  that  building.  Such  qual- 
ities in  the  hearts  and  minds  of  a  people  forge  a  nation  of 
steel.  In  time  past  China  ran  like  a  clock,  each  wheel 
did  its  work  and  all  ran  together.  The  foreigner  came, 
broke  into  the  clock-work,  and  then  complained  of  China's 
poor  machinery.  China  stood  alone  during  the  rise  and 
fall  of  many  nations.  Then  baby  nations  come  to  her 
dictating  with  their  partially  tried  ideas  of  progress. 
China  protested  against  this  foreign  intervention  as  these 
troublesome  elements  endangered  her  entire  system  of 
existence.  She  believed  that  something  must  be  done, 
at  any  cost,  to  drive  out  these  invaders  —  hence  the  siege 
of  1900.  The  Chinese  are  not  a  savage  nor  warlike 
people,  but  their  siege  methods  were  crude,  unwise,  and 
cruel.  This  awful  event  was  the  outcome  of  many  trying 
circumstances  which  foreigners  had  created  in  a  nation 
heretofore  at  peace  with  the  world.  What  China  as  a 
nation  and  her  people  individually  suffered  in  1900  is  a 
blank  page  in  written  history.  The  ravages  of  war 
destroy,  and  the  "spoils  of  war"  carry  away.  Through 
these  avenues  China  is  bereft  of  many  of  her  choicest, 
most  valuable  treasures. 

Many  of  the  so-called  new  and  wonderful  discoveries 
of  to-day  China  knew  and  used  centuries  ago.  To  illus- 
trate: A  professor  of  mathematics  from  America  was 
visiting  a  college  in  North  China.  He  told  me  that  he 
said  to  the  college  professor,  "There  is  a  new  method  in 
mathematics  being  taught  in  America.     It  is  called  the 


AUDIENCES  AND   COURTESIES     369 

'short  cut'  and  is  a  method  of  casting  out  the  nines." 
The  professor  listened,  then  said,  "The  Chinese  have 
been  practising  that  method  farther  back  than  recorded 
history  goes."  A  student  was  called  up  to  prove  it. 
Sure  enough,  it  was  the  "  short  cut,"  the  casting  out  of 
the  nines.  This  is  only  one  of  the  "new"  old  things 
coming  to  light.  Through  close  application  to  honest 
seeking  in  China  many  wonderful  and  profitable  facts  are 
unearthed. 

The  first  recognition  that  Her  Majesty,  the  Empress 
Dowager,  ever  gave  the  foreign  ladies  was  December  13, 
1898.  In  order  to  obtain  this  recognition,  there  was 
much  manoeuvring  on  the  part  of  the  Throne  and  the 
Diplomatic  Corps.  It  took  over  two  months  to  bring 
about  this  first  audience  given  by  Her  Majesty  to  the 
wives  of  the  seven  Ministers  then  in  Peking.  The  Em- 
press Dowager  had  never  before  seen  a  foreign  lady. 
After  the  Court  returned  to  its  capital  in  1902,  other 
audiences  were  given  to  the  ladies  of  the  Diplomatic 
Corps.  The  Joint  Note  and  the  Protocol  had  been 
signed.  The  pledges  of  friendship  had  been  given  be- 
tween the  foreign  nations  and  China.  As  I  cherished 
no  animosity,  I  endeavored  to  plan  some  way  in  which  to 
show  my  willingness  to  let  by-gones  be  by-gones  and  with 
Mr.  Conger's  ever  willing,  ready,  and  efficient  counsel  and 
help,  I  succeeded.  My  first  effort  was  to  invite  the  Court 
Princesses  to  tiffin  at  my  home.  Her  Majesty  granted 
the  request  and  eleven  of  the  highest-ranking  Court 
ladies  graced  the  American  Legation.  Their  coming  was 
Imperial  in  general  and  in  detail.  It  was  their  first 
introduction  into  a  foreign  home.  This  recognition  of 
friendship  from  the  Throne  opened  the  doors  to  other 


37©  LETTERS  FROM   CHINA 

friendships.  Before  an  audience  with  Her  Majesty  or  a 
visit  with  her  Princesses  and  ladies,  I  considered  their 
customs  and  our  customs  to  detect,  if  possible,  some 
thought  in  common.  I  always  succeeded  in  finding  such 
a  thought,  and  with  this  as  our  starting-point,  conversa- 
tion never  faltered.  Our  friendships  grew  stronger;  we 
trusted  one  another,  and  I  have  every  reason  to  believe 
that  our  respect  and  affections  were  mutual. 

At  one  of  the  private  audiences  I  asked  Her  Majesty 
if  she  would  honor  me  with  her  autograph  and  that  of  the 
Empress  and  the  Court  Princesses.  She  frankly  replied 
that  if  I  would  send  a  book  such  as  I  desired  she  would 
grant  my  request.  To-day  I  have  in  my  possession  the 
Emperor's  written  seal,  the  Empress  Dowager's  written 
seal,  the  Empress's  written  seal,  and  the  character  auto- 
graphs of  the  Court  Princesses.  These  autographs  are 
not  mere  signatures.  Did  not  this  act,  in  a  new  and 
beautiful  way,  reveal  more  of  friendship's  crown! 

The  time  is  coming  —  is  now  come  —  for  a  great  work 
to  be  done  in  China.  There  is  a  wonderful  awakening 
among  these  people,  and  a  reaching  for  something  out- 
side of  their  great  nation  and  their  long-time  customs  and 
ideas.  The  Chinese  had  a  claim  of  birthright  and  ad- 
hered to  it;  I  too,  had  a  claim  of  birthright  and  adhered 
to  it.  Between  these  two  conceptions  there  was  a  great 
distance,  but  this  distance  was  annihilated  by  the  wireless 
telegraphy  of  the  heart's  sympathy,  and  we  saw  that  we 
were  under  one  canopy  of  Love.  This  clearness  of  vision 
remains  unclouded  since  my  return  to  my  own  land.  I 
have  received  messages  and  gifts  from  Her  Imperial 
Majesty,  letters  and  pictures  from  the  Princesses,  from  the 
officials'  wives  and  daughters,  from  mission  school  girls, 


CHINESE  GIRLS'   SCHOOLS  371 

and  from  our  servants.  I  treasure  these  expressions  of 
friendship.  The  ladies  write  to  me  of  their  active  under- 
takings in  a  broader  education.  I  learn  much  of  their 
endeavors  through  these  letters  written  by  their  own 
hands.  They  are  publishing  a  woman's  daily  newspaper 
in  Peking.  It  is  eagerly  read  by  the  Chinese  ladies  and 
is  read  and  explained  to  others. 

I  am  glad  that  I  have  known  the  Empress  Dowager 
of  China,  known  the  young  Empress,  the  Princesses,  and 
the  Chinese  ladies.  This  mingling  with  them  and  know- 
ing them  has  broadened  my  view,  and  charity  smiles  its 
blessings.  True  friendship  is  sunshine  to  the  day  and  a 
lamp  to  the  darkness  of  night. 


[To  a  Niece] 

Pasadena,  California, 
September  22,  igoy. 

YOU  ask  me  to  write  you  more  about  China.  This  I 
am  always  glad  to  do, 

Letters  from  Peking  tell  me  that  the  China  of  to-day 
is  not  like  the  China  of  five  years  ago.  The  change  is 
felt  everywhere,  but  nowhere  is  it  felt  more  than  in  the 
homes  among  the  women.  In  the  city  of  Peking  there 
now  are  seventeen  Chinese  girls'  schools  conducted  and 
supported  by  Chinese  ladies,  some  of  them  Princesses. 
These  ladies  are  now  more  eager  than  ever  before  to  be 
educated  in  broader  lines.  There  are  willing  hearts 
and  ready  hands  among  their  own  people  to  help  them, 
and  these  helpers  are  adding  fuel  to  this  kindling  desire 
for  something  beyond  their  walls.  The  Imperial  Prin- 
cess has  opened  a  school  for  girls  in  her  palace.     Prince 


372  LETTERS  FROM  CHINA 

Su  has  his  own  school  for  his  family  of  daughters  and 
nieces.  The  Mongolian  Princess'  school  of  which  I 
have  written  has  increased  to  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  women  and  girls.  Mrs.  Chang,  who  studied  the 
mission  translations,  is  still  assisting  the  Mongolian 
Princess.  This  strong-minded  Chinese  lady  and  this 
strong-minded  Manchu  Princess  are  doing  a  wonderful 
school  work  together  for  the  Mongolian  women. 

I  receive  letters  from  Mrs.  Chang  telling  of  their 
school  work.  Her  small  feet  are  unbound  and  she  rides 
her  pony  with  ease  and  freedom  both  in  thought  and 
body.  Prince  Su's  third  sister  has  a  school  of  eighty  or 
more  pupils  in  Peking.  She  herself  stays  in  the  school- 
room and  teaches  from  ten  until  three.  There  is  also  a 
good  school  in  Princess  K'e's  large  palace.  I  have  many 
times  visited  these  palaces  and  conversed  with  these 
Princesses  and  ladies  and  I  am  not  surprised  that  this 
fulness  of  heart  and  mind  is  being  manifested  in  grow- 
ing activity.  Private  schools  for  girls  of  both  the  higher 
and  lower  classes  are  being  started  throughout  China. 
I  am  now  persuaded  without  one  doubt  that  this  uni- 
form action  was  quietly  planned  and  sanctioned  by  the 
Throne,  before  this  departure  with  its  great  responsibil- 
ities was  undertaken. 

The  Chinese  are  so  patient,  thorough,  and  steadfast, 
that  I  firmly  believe  that  if  foreigners  will  let  them  work 
in  their  own  way,  they  will  become  a  strong  nation  in 
line  with  strong  nations.  The  cords  of  friendship  are 
drawing  tighter  about  China  and  America. 

The  attitude  of  the  United  States  that  she  was  not 
warring  with  China  in  1900  and  that  she  recognized  no 
spoils  of  war;    the  attitude  that  made  her  give  back  to 


ATTITUDE  TOWARD   CHINA      373 

China  the  large  quantity  of  silver  which  fell  into  her 
possession  at  Tientsin;  that  made  her  give  over  to  the 
Chinese  Government,  unmolested,  the  treasury  and  its 
treasures  in  the  Forbidden  City;  that  caused  her,  with- 
out compulsion,  to  cancel  the  Boxer  indemnity  fund,  is 
an  attitude  too  deep,  too  broad,  too  high  for  word  ex- 
pression. Does  not  this  attitude  reveal  a  strong  current 
of  sisterly  good  will,  when  it  is  able  to  sweep  away  the 
heavy  weights  of  financial  gain?  This  attitude  is  not 
one  of  spontaneity;  the  seed  was  brought  over  in  the 
May-flower;  it  was  planted  in  the  virgin  soil  of  liberty, 
where  it  rooted,  and  was  watered  with  treasured  dew- 
drops;  was  nourished  into  being  in  Love's  tenderness; 
was  sustained  in  Truth's  fortitude.  This  is  the  story  of 
our  country's  attitude. 

The  full,  extended  hand  does  not  return  empty. 
When  the  ravages  of  the  earthquake  on  our  Pacific 
Coast  baffled  man  and  left  sorrow  in  havoc's  wake,  then 
China  in  sisterly  good  will  offered  a  helping  hand.  The 
Boxer  indemnity  fund  is  now  to  be  used  by  China  to 
educate  many  of  her  young  men  in  America.  Good  will 
i  is  ever  sounding  its  sweet  melody  in  eternity's  chorus. 
Now  and  then  a  strain  is  caught  even  amid  time's  awful 
din,  and  this  strain  awakens  to  new  activities,  to  new 
steadfastness,  to  new  devotion. 

Letters  written  to  me  by  Chinese  Princesses  and 
ladies  impart  much  information  which  I  highly  prize. 
Their  woman's  daily  paper  has  a  large  circulation,  and 
is  thoroughly  read.  In  some  of  the  schools  it  is  read 
as  a  part  of  the  course  of  instruction;  it  treats  of  topics 
of  general  interest. 

But  their  revered   Confucius  is  not  forgotten,   nor 


374  LETTERS   FROM   CHINA 

should  he  be  forgotten.  There  is  a  patriotic  awakening 
in  China  that  seems  to  come  from  the  depths  of  mind 
and  heart.  It  is  no  unusual  thing  to  see  on  the  streets 
young  students  in  military  uniform;  military  drill  is  uni- 
versal in  their  institutions.  The  opium  reform  is  being 
pushed  with  energy,  and  promises  great  good  to  the 
Chinese  people.  China's  financial  situation  is  appalling, 
but  her  sturdy,  quiet  activity  will  bring  her  out  of  this 
dilemma.  She  will  overcome  the  threatening  storm,  and 
calm  the  tragically  troubled  sea.  Every  foreign  idea 
strikes  a  discordant  Chinese  idea,  and  it  takes  time  and 
watchful  listening  to  catch  the  harmonious  chords,  as  the 
vibrations  destroy  the  discordant  ones.  I  watch  with 
deep  interest  the  steps  that  China  is  taking;  her  joys  are 
my  pleasures;  her  sorrows  are  my  regrets.  May  China 
in  peace  and  good  will  walk  hand  in  hand  with  the  other 
great  nations! 

Other  nations  have  individualities,  but  by  constant 
contact  with  one  another,  these  individualities  are  tuned 
into  comparative  harmony.  If  China  wishes  to  be  in 
accord  with  this  universal  chorus,  she  will  have  to  think 
it  out,  and  work  it  out  in  her  own  way.  She  has  a  mighty 
problem  before  her.  May  China's  rulers  and  her  sub- 
jects stand  as  a  unit,  and  all  work  together  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  their  vast  Empire.  China  belongs  to  her 
people,  and  her  people  should  arouse  themselves  to  pro- 
tect their  home  land.  They  can  do  it,  and  do  it  in  a 
dignified,  honorable  way.  Their  positiveness,  toned 
by  their  innate  politeness  and  tempered  by  tireless  activ- 
ity, will  awaken  a  slumbering  strength  which  is  all  their 
own.  Every  nation  plants  within  itself  a  thought-seed 
which  it  cultivates,  waters,  directs  in  growth,  and  pro- 


SYMPATHY   FROM   CHINA  375 

tects  through  its  many  advancing  stages.  It  protests 
against  other  nations  entering  its  domain  and  pouring 
on  more  water  when  not  needed,  cultivating  and  prun- 
ing where  not  desired,  and  then  carrying  away  the  fruits 
—  if  there  are  fruits.  Why  not  let  China  plant,  culti- 
vate, water,  prune,  and  reap  her  own? 

I  find  that  the  Chinese  have  deep  feelings,  and  they 
express  them.  This  fact  I  have  had  beautifully  shown  to 
me  of  late.  Messages  of  respect  and  sympathy  from  high 
Chinese  officials  have  hastened  with  electric  speed  and 
steam  impulsion  to  America  and  into  my  home;  and  in 
sending  these  messages,  China  unconsciously  joined  hands 
with  other  nations  in  expressing  a  common  thought  of 
good  will  and  sympathy.  The  tender  touch  of  a  woman's 
heart  was  given  to  me  in  messages  from  Her  Imperial 
Majesty  the  Empress  Dowager,  and  in  letters  written  by 
the  Princesses  and  Chinese  ladies  to  help  lift  the  clouds 
of  sorrow  and  reveal  a  clearer,  brighter  sky.  The  high- 
est, deepest,  broadest  feelings  of  man  everywhere,  awaken 
him  to  better  thoughts  and  better  deeds.  The  One  Great 
Heart  purifies  and  propels.  How  near  and  how  far  are 
the  infinite  love-beats  which  proclaim  a  living  sympathy! 
No  ruthless  hand  can  retard  them  or  even  touch  them. 
The  constant  sympathy  in  friendship's  endless  chain  has 
welded  each  link  strongly.  Sometimes  its  activity  sinks 
out  of  human  sight,  but  in  buoyancy  of  life  it  rises  to 
view  again.  All  people  and  all  nations  form  a  part  of 
this  welded  chain,  and  at  times  feel  the  buoyancy  of  this 
sympathy.     China  holds  a  link  in  this  chain. 

May  the  Oriental  "dawn"  and  the  Occidental  " twi- 
light" be  effaced  by  the  constant  sunshine  of  one  eternal 
day,  alike  for  all. 


AFTERWORD 

China's  Bereavement 

November  16,  igo8. 
THE  world's  sympathy  goes  out  to  China  this  day. 
Official  announcement  is  made  of  the  death  of  His  Im- 
perial Majesty  the  Emperor  of  China,  Kwang  Hsu;  and 
of  Her  Imperial  Majesty  the  Empress  Dowager.  Every 
nation  has  felt  the  touch  of  sorrow's  hand;  and  now  in 
sympathy  the  nations  reach  out  to  China  to  soothe  that 
touch.  What  the  nations  feel  I  feel  more  keenly.  The 
Emperor  I  have  met  many  times  officially.  The  Empress 
Dowager  has  received  me,  officially  and  socially,  to  an 
acquaintance  that  grew  into  friendship. 

Her  Majesty's  keen  perception  knew  the  nations,  and 
she  often  spoke  to  me  with  deep  appreciation  of  America's 
attitude  toward  China.  She  lived  a  long  life  of  usefulness, 
and  with  a  steady  hand,  clear  mind,  and  loyal  heart, 
guided  the  affairs  of  her  country.  Through  the  whirl- 
winds of  excited  opinions,  and  through  the  threatening 
storms,  this  woman  stood  in  her  might  and  baffled  them. 
History  claims  the  record.  This  record  the  world  re- 
cognizes; and  China  knows  it.  In  my  conversations  with 
this  great  woman  I  noted  her  marked  love  for  her  country 
and  for  her  people,  and  how  earnestly  she  was  reaching 
out  to  uplift  the  masses  and  to  increase  woman's  useful- 
ness. May  this  dawning  of  a  brighter  day,  revealing 
the  character  of  Chinese  women,  increase  to  noonday 
splendor;  and  in  this  splendor  may  the  world  recognize 
the  real  character  of  this  Imperial  Ruler! 

376 


AFTERWORD  377 

For  forty-seven  years  this  able  woman  has  stood  at 
the  head  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  strong  men  have 
given  their  support.  In  a  land  where  woman  has  had 
so  little  official  standing,  Her  Majesty's  achievements 
make  her  ability  and  strength  more  pronounced;  and 
China,  surely,  must  be  jealous  for  this  reign  in  the  sight 
of  other  nations.  With  her  keen  perception,  this  ruler 
recognized  the  future  demands  which  were  fast  pressing 
themselves  upon  her  people;  and  she  worked  to  prepare 
for  their  wise  acceptance. 

Her  last  edict  is  pathetic.  Weary  with  battlings  upon 
the  troubled  sea  of  this  life,  she  was  ready  and  willing  for 
others  to  stand  at  the  helm  and  guide  the  Ship  of  State. 
"The  Dragon  Throne"  will  in  justice  claim  a  recognition 
of  its  rights,  and  China's  stanch  men  will  stand  loyal. 

The  history  of  her  days  marks  the  course  of  a  strong 
woman's  steppings.  These  steppings  have  been  acknowl- 
edged by  the  great  Chinese  Empire  in  titles  and  high 
honors  while  she  lived,  and  still  greater  honors  after  her 
death. 

Through  this  woman's  life  the  world  catches  a  glimpse 
of  the  hidden  quality  of  China's  womanhood.  It  savors 
of  a  quality  that  might  benefit  that  of  the  Western  World. 
The  Empress  Dowager  of  China  loved  and  honored  her 
great  country;  that  country  loved  and  honored  its  great 
ruler.  May  China  continue  to  honor  her  commendable 
deeds,  and  make  it  possible  for  the  world  to  place  her 
name  among  the  makers  of  history!  May  China's 
sorrows  diminish,  and  may  her  joys  increase! 

The  End 


THE    EMPRESS    DOWAGER 


INDEX 


INDEX 


A.,  Dr.,  missionary,  95 

Age  of  Chinese  structures,  210,  368 

Ages,  Chinese  ask,  263 

Agriculture,  Temple  of,  Peking,  3, 
162,  170,  185,  191 

Allied  Army  in  relief  of  Peking,  97- 
100,  102,  105-108,  113-117,  119, 
126,  131,  i37_I39)  !42>  !44>  x45> 
147,  140-157,  i59-i65>  I68-I77. 
182,  184,  185,  187,  188,  190,  191, 
194-196,  198,  199,  208,  216,  223, 
230,  281 

Amah,  maid,  duties  of,  37 

American  history  known  to  Chinese 
woman,  267 

American  Legation,  Peking,  5,  26, 
27,  38,  92,  103,  106,  109,  no,  112, 
113,  121,  127,  133,  151,  154,  156, 
160,  161,  164,  165,  191,  194,  230, 
243,  261,  262,  273,  295,  296,  328, 
347-349,  354 

American  Minister  (Mr.  E.  H.  Con- 
ger), official  acts  of,  24,  39,  74,  75, 
85,  90-99,  101,  105-109,  in,  115, 
124,  134-139,  146,  148-151,  153- 
155,  158,  165,  175,  179-182,  187, 
190,  192,  196-199,  205-207,  213, 
225,  229-231,  237,  242-244,  247, 
261,  273,  288,  294-296,  308,  319, 
342,  344,  346,  348,  35°.  352,  358, 
359,  369 

Americans  in  Philippines,  342,  343 

Amoy,  342 

Ancestor  worship,  46,  188,  249,  250 

Ancestral  halls,  249-251,  281 

Anderson,  Consul  and  Mrs.,  321 

Animals,  treatment  of,  9,  21,  280,  281; 
not  seen  in  Canton,  200 

Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  students  from,  331 

Architecture,  32 

Army,  Chinese,  afraid  of  or  in  sym- 
pathy  with   Boxers,    89,    95.     See 
also  Soldiers,  Chinese 
Army  reviewing  grounds,  78 
Art,  Chinese,  260,  276-278 


Art,  Japanese,  277 

Artificial  flowers,  72 

Aster,  symbolism  of,  270 

Astronomy,  place  of,  in  Chinese  his- 
tory, 31;  observatory  and  instru- 
ments for  study  of,  53,  54,  172,  177, 
210;    thoughts  upon,  55 

Athletes,  Chinese,  32 

Audiences  with  Their  Majesties,  39- 
42,  189,  216-224,  228,  229,  234- 
240,  244,  245,  247,  248,  252,  254- 
256,  271,  272,  291,  292,  304,  319, 

352,  353,  369,  37° 
Austrian  charge  d'affaires,  130 
Austrain  Legation,  no 
Austrian  Minister,  24 
Autographs  from  Chinese  Court,  370 
Avenue  of  giant  monoliths,  16,  17 

B 

Bainbridge,   Mr.,   American  Secre- 
tary, 75,  134,  184 
Bainbridge,  Mrs.,  184,  220,  231 
Band,   Sir  Robert  Hart's,   186,   264, 

265 
Banks,  Chinese  employed  in,  8,  9 
Banquets,  late,  Chinese  do  not  like, 

243 
Bat,  symbolism  of,  70 
Beard,  custom  in  regard  to,  51 
Beggars,  68,  69 
Belgian  Legation,  no 
Bell  Temple,  57-59 
Bells,  large,  58,  330 
Bible  customs  common  to  China,  8,  72 
Bible  quotations,  115-117,  124,  128 
Birthday  celebrations,  263-266,  310- 

3I2>  3i9 

Birthdays  of  gods,  208 
Blake,  Sir  Henry  and  Lady,  205 
Blood  jade,  353 

"Blue  gown,"  China  the  country  of 
the,  5 ;   Peking  the  city  of  the,  238, 

3i7 
Board  of  Finance,  306 
Board  of  Rights,  266 


38 


382 


INDEX 


Board  of  Trade,  methods  of,   209,  210 

Boards,  Government,  62 

Bodies,  whole,  pass  into  whole  spirits, 

7i 

Bound  feet,  53,  254,  361 

Boxer  indemnity  fund,  373 

Boxer  Rebellion.  See  Siege  of  Pe- 
king, Missionaries  and  Missions, 
and  Boxers 

Boxers,  88-91,  93,  95,  100-107,  114, 
116,  126,  131,  140-142,  144,  145, 
163,  164,  171,  173,  174,  183,  184, 
215,  279,  283,  363 

"Boys"  as  house  servants,  6,  8,  20, 

36,  37 

Brazier,  Mrs.,  35 

Brazil,  1 

Brewster,  Captain,  of  American  Le- 
gation, 242 

Bride's  gifts,  ceremony  of  presenta- 
tion of,  299-302 

Brides  never  told  sad  news,  269 

Bridge  over  Yellow  River,  357 

Bridge,  perfection  of  construction  of, 
210 

Bridges  in  grounds  of  Summer  Palace, 

239 
British   cemetery   without  the   walls, 

Peking,  29,  164 
British  Legation,  Peking,  27,  40,  42, 
101,  109,  no,  113,  114,  118,  120, 
122,  127,  133,  151,  156,  162,  170, 
184,  186,  196,  350 
British  Legation,  Western  Hills,  98 
British   Minister    (Sir    Claude    Mac- 
Donald,  Dean  of  Diplomatic  Corps), 
24,  40,  92,  108,  in,  114,  122,  130- 
133,  138,  175 
British  Minister  (in  1905),  351 
British  railway  into  Peking,  187,  188 
Bronze  Cow,  Summer  Palace,  239 
"Brother  on  the  wall,  my,"  148,  149 
Bruce,  Mt.,  75 
Buddhism,  33,  62,  63,  277 
Building,  substantial,  210,  368 
Burning  of  all  writings,  13,  62 
Buttons,  granting  of,  358 


Cablegram   held   back   by   Yamen, 

134-136,  138 
Cages,  pirates  confined  in,  201,  202 
Calendar,  Chinese,  208,  319 
Camel-back  bridge,  239 


Camel  trains,  12,  44,  173,  233 

Campbell,  Miss,  299,  305,  315,  318, 
341,  349,  350,  352,  353,  357,  359 

Canal  boats  hauled  by  coolies,  65 

Canal,  Grand,  210,  320 

Canal  system,  61 

Canton,  199-203,  325,  342 

Capital  city  of  China,  62,  327,  329 

Caricatures  of  Empress  Dowager,  247 

Carl,  Miss,  248,  271,  272,  291 

Carrier  pigeons,  209 

Carts,  none  in  Hang  Chow,  321,  323; 
none  in  Foochow,  339 

Cemeteries,  private,  10,  11;  similar- 
ity between   Chinese  and  foreign, 

254 

Cemetery,  British,  29,  164 

Cemetery,  British  laid  railroad 
through,  187,  188 

Chaffee,  General  Adna  R.,  160,  161,  J 
165,  170,  173,  182,  185,   191,   194, 
196-198,  245 

Chaffee,  Mrs.,  197 

Chamulpo,  85 

Chang,  Mrs.,  364,  372 

Ch'ang  P'ing  Chou,  14,  17 

Change  of  clothing  controlled  by 
edict,  72,  274,  275 

Characters  of  written  language,  31, 
200;  Chinese,  Japanese,  and  Ko- 
rean identical,  86 

Chefoo,  85 

Cheshire,  Mr.,  85,  101,  106,  108,  128 

Ch'ien  Lung,  Emperor,  249-251 

Ch'ien  Lung,  Empress  of,  249,  251 

Ch'ienmen  gate,  2,  104,  no,  136,  161, 
162,  164 

Children,  Chinese  love  of,  32,  47,  71, 
280,  361:  bought  or  adopted,  47, 
51;  birth  of,  an  honor  to  woman, 
50;  of  secondary  wives,  282;  good 
manners  of,  288,  305 ;  love  their  par- 
ents, 309,  361 

Ch'in  Dynasty,  31,  61 

Ch'in  Shih,  Emperor,  13,  61,  62 

China,  contrasted  with  Brazil,  1;  a 
country  of  walls,  1,  317;  thickly 
populated,  4;  "one  vast  graveyard," 
5 ;  the  country  of  the  "  blue  gown," 
5;  no  idle  people  in,  8;  little  cruelty 
to  animals  in,  9;  size  of  farms  in, 
10;  prosperity  of,  12;  adoption  of 
name  of,  13;  foreign  troops  in,  25, 
26;  oldest  continuous  nation,  29; 
natural  resources  of,  30;    has  old- 


INDEX 


3*3 


est  language,  30;  religion  of,  33; 
English  language  in,  43,  255,  314, 
326,  359,  362,  363;  walled  herself 
in,  49;  word  of  Confucius  law  in, 
61;  invaded  by  foreigners,  65 ;  rela- 
tions with  outside  world,  66;  con- 
trol over  its  people,  93;  relations 
with  foreign  legations  and  nations, 
100,  102,  105-108,  i3r,  138,  139, 
181;  anti-foreign  spirit  of,  repre- 
sented by  Boxers,  141,  142,  152; 
loss  to,  104,  144,  177,  284,  296, 
368;  absence  of  Government  of, 
163,  177,  195;  United  States  not 
warring  on,  164;  had  treasures 
hidden  from  foreigners,  171;  com- 
pared to  astronomical  instruments, 
172;  struggle  of,  against  inroads, 
and  sympathy  with,  176,  188,  189, 
202,  323,  368,  374;  if  divided 
among  nations,  189;  the  ruling 
power  of,  restored,  190;  Joint 
Note  submitted  to,  192;  Joint 
Note  accepted  by,  193, 195 ;  cities  of, 
199;  written  characters  of,  200;  has 
respect  for  United  States,  205 ;  good 
wishes  for,  208,  227, 374, 377 ;  states- 
men of ,  215;  at  peace  with  eleven 
nations,  216,  219,  360,  369;  changed 
attitude  of,  220,  223,  236,  237,  360; 
neutrality  of,  in  Russo-Japanese 
War,  262;  antiquity  of,  290,  317, 
367;  foreign  educational  work  in, 
314  et  seq.;  individualism  of,  317; 
flag  of,  319;  patriotism  in,  321,  323, 
334,  374;  new  civilization  in,  339; 
Yellow  River  called  "sorrow"  of, 
356;  local  industries  in,  357;  will 
resent  wrongs,  362;  extended  aid 
after  San  Francisco  earthquake,  366, 
373;  awakening  in,  370,  371;  friend- 
ship with  United  States,  372,  373; 
financial  situation  of,  374;  bereave- 
ment of,  in  loss  of  rulers,  376,  377 

Chinese  and  Manchu  ladies  do  not 
intermingle,  361 

Chinese,  characteristics  of ,  6-9,  12,  14 
18,  19,  21,  29-36,  43,  45,  46,  48 
49)  56,  59-61,  64-66,  68-71,  83 
88,  93,  116,  141,  155,  175,  188,  189 
202,  204,  210,  228,  236,  250,  254 
255,  264,  266,  269,  274,  280,  287 
289,  290,  294-296,  298,  303,  309 
310,  317,  321-323,  339,  341,  360- 
363>  367-369,  372,  374,  375 


Chinese  Gazettes,  140 

Ch'ing,   Prince,   40,  41,  97,  99,   126, 

I31,  !37,  !42,  169,  179,  181,  192, 

219,  225,  229,  243,  306;  family  of, 

41,  225,  227,  282,  350 
Chinkiang,  334~337 
"Chit-book"  system,  209 
Chow  Dynasty,  61 
Chow  Tung  Sang,  Mr.,  of  Canton, 

and  family,  202-205 
Christianity   introduced   into   China, 

63 

Christmas  gifts,  from  Chinese  ser- 
vants, 37;   after  the  siege,  191,  246 

Clans,  71 

Classical  education,  of  Chinese,  32, 
56,  59,  60,  336,  337 

Climate  of  North  China,  43,  83 

Cloisonne  workers  at  Imperial  In- 
dustrial School,  297 

Clothing,  winter  and  summer,  72, 
274,  275 

Cloud,  Mr.,  321 

Coal,  difficulty  to  obtain,  173,  233 

Coal  Hill,  Peking,  165,  166 

Coffin,  significance  to  Chinese,   272, 

273 
Color,  Chinese  study,  218,  249,  287 
"Coming  troops."     See  Allied  Army 

in  relief  of  Peking. 
Commercial  treaty  between  China  and 

United  States,   283 
Compound,  definition  of  a,  5 ;   family 

homes  in,  266 
Concession,  foreign,  in  Shanghai,  4, 

319;    in  treaty  ports,  82,  83;    none 

in  interior  cities,   83;    in  Canton, 

200 
Confucian   temple,    Peking,    60,    61; 

at  Nan  Yang  College,  319,  320;   at 

Nanking,  329 
Confucianism,  33 
Confucius,  60-62,  320,  329,  373 
Conger,  Mr.  E.  H.,  American  Minis- 
ter, official  acts  of.     See  American 

Minister 
Contortionists,    Chinese    skilled    as, 

32 
Conversations    with    Chinese    ladies, 

294,  37° 
Converts,  native  Christian,  93,   101, 

103,  109,  147,  158,  165,  167,  183, 

184,  192,  316 
Coolidge,  Mr.,  of  American  Legation, 

242,  243,  354 


3H 


INDEX 


Coolies,  work  performed  by,  4,  7,  64, 
65,  200,  321;  food  and  clothing  of, 
7,  8;  do  not  give  personal  service, 
8;  endurance  of,  78;  form  Boxer 
bands,  88;  efficient  workers  during 
siege,  122;  making  railroad  grade, 
187 

Costume,  Chinese,  73,  74,  229,  240; 
foreigners  ridicule,  289;  of  Chinese 
and  Manchu,  361.     See  also  Dress 

Couriers,  Chinese,  during  siege,  97, 
98,  100,  105,  119,  132,  I43-I45. 
147,  148,  153 

Court  interpreter,  225,  227,  228 

Crime,  worst  Chinese,  71;  punish- 
ments for,  201,  202 

Crops,  Chinese,  10,  78,  83 

Cruelty  to  animals,  9,  281 

Customs,  similar,  254,  294,  295,  370 

Czarevitch,   Russian  warship,   346 

D 

D.,  Mr.,  156 

Daughters-in-law  may  not  sit  in  pres- 
ence of  mothers-in-law,  281 

Daylight,  Chinese  fight  in,  97,  116 

Death  of  priest,  ceremonies  attendant 
upon,  84 

Decoration  of  the  Double  Dragon. 
See  Order  of  the   Double  Dragon 

De  Giers,  Mr.,  Russian  Minister,  92. 
See  Russian  Legation  and  Minister 

Degrees  conferred  upon  scholars,  56 

Denby,  Colonel,  5 

Dewey,  Admiral,  207 

Diplomatic  Corps  and  foreign  Min- 
isters, 24,  38,  40,  66,  67,  89-92,  94, 
97,  99,  100,  105,  107,  108,  in,  115, 
I31.  133.  x35>  *37-i39>  142,  i43> 
147,  149-152,  I54-I58,  l62>  173, 
175-179,  181,  182,  184,  189,  190, 
192,  195,  196,  198,  216-219,  222— 
224,  229,  236,  238,  256,  291,  295, 
304,  319,  348,  351,  354,  369.  See 
American  Minister,  British  Minis- 
ter, etc. 

Doctor,  foreign,  visited  Emperor,  26 

Dogs  presented  by  Empress  Dowager, 

232,  355 
Doric,  S.  S.,  4 
Dragon,  symbolism  of,  70 
Drawing,  Chinese,  277 
Dress,  of  servants,  6;    of  coolies,  8, 

79,  321;    of  officials,  39;    of  ladies 


of  rank,  41,  73,  74,  229,  271,  282, 
300,  310;  winter  and  summer,  72, 
274,  275;  of  Koreans,  85;  of  man- 
darin's family,  203;  of  Manchu 
ladies,  229;  of  Chinese  and  Man- 
chu, 361.  See  also  Costume,  Chi- 
nese 

Drew,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  339,  340 

"Drought  devil,"  ravages  of,  256 

Dust  storm,  44 

Dutch  Legation,  no 

Dutch  Minister,  175 

Dutton,  Lieut.,  26 

Dwarf  flowering  trees,  225,  226 


Earth,  Temple  of,  Peking,  3 

Economy  characteristic  of  Chinese, 
14,  19,  31,  60,  83,  298 

Edicts  from  the  Throne,  96,  139-142, 
219,  253,  254,  274,  377 

Education  of  Chinese  youths  in  for- 
eign countries,  252-254,  373;  for- 
eign, in  China,  314 

Education,  respect  for,  31,  32,  362 

Eighth  moons,  two  in  year  misfortune 
to  Throne,  142,  208 

Elephant  stables,  174,  175 

Emergencies,    Chinese    character   in,   1 

Emperor,  powers  and  perquisites  of, 
3,  !3,  43,  46,  62,  169,  249 

Emperor,  the  late,  22-27,  40,  41,  43,    , 
46,  97,  106,  163,  169,  181,  215-217, 
219,  220,  222,  227,  239,  240,  244, 
245,  271,  351,  367,  370,  376 

Emperor's  brother,  bride  of,  245,  279 

Empress   Dowager,   the   late,    22—27,    ' 
30-42,  96,  97,  106,  140,  141,  163,    . 
169,   181,  215,   217-225,   227,   229, 
232,   234-236,   239,   240,  244,   245, 
247,   248,  252-257,   264,  265,  271,    1 
272,   274,   278,   291-293,  304,  306, 
351-353,    361,    364-367,    369-37I.    j 
375-377 

Empress,  wife  of  late  Emperor,  42,  I 
163,  169,  215,  222,  227,  239,  240, 
244,  245,  270,  351,  366,  370,  371 

Endurance  of  Chinese  structures,  210, 
368 

English  language  in  China,  43,  314, 
326,  359>  362,  363;  "pidgin  Eng- 
lish," 255 

English  sovereign,  honor  to,  205 


INDEX 


3*5 


Episcopal   mission,   Han   Kow,   333, 

334 
Etiquette,    204,    228,    266,    280,    281, 

3°S 
Evans,  Admiral,  and  party,  247 
Examination  Halls,   Peking,   55,   56, 

172,  177,  212,  215,  328;   Nanking, 

327 


F.,  Dr.,  of  Soo  Chow,  326 

Fable  of  the  breaking  of  the  iron  bar, 

3J>  32  m 

Facial  expression  of  Chinese,  36 
Famine,    influence    of,    on    forming 

Boxer  bands,  88 
Fans,  72 

Farms,  10,  78,  83 
Favier,  M.,  166 
Feast  days,  274,  319 
Feet,  binding  of,  53,  254,  361 
Fengtai  village  burned,  90 
Fertilization  of  land,  83 
Financial  situation  of  China,  374 
Fire,  no  way  to  fight,  104 
Firearms,  Boxers  afraid  of,  105 
Fireworks,  China  home  of,  76 
Fiske,  Mr.,  of  Shanghai,  320 
Five  Hundred  and  Eight  Idols,  Hall 

of,  78,  79 
Flag,  Chinese,  use  of,  319 
Flags  of  Legations,  etiquette  of,  28, 

•67 
Fletcher,  Mr.,  354 
Flowering  trees,  potted,  225,  226 
Fog-bound  ship,   experience  of   pas- 
sengers on,  87 
Foochow,  338,  339 
Food,  cultivating  a  liking  for  Chinese, 

267 
Food  of  coolies,  7 

Forbidden   City,   Peking,    2,    22,   25, 
161,  170,  171,  215,  216,  222,  244, 
245.  256,  373 
Foreign  educational  work,  314,  338 
Foreign  Office,  Nanking,  329 
Foreigners,   1,   5,   22-26,  30,   45,  46, 
49,  62,  63,  65,  66,  82,  83,  88-91, 
93,  95,  96,  98,   99,   101-104,   106, 
107,   113,   116-118,   133,   138,   141, 
149,  157,  158,  162,  164,  165,  167, 
169,   171,  175-178,  183,   186,   188, 
189,   199,   200,   202,   204,  220,  223, 
229-231,  236,  237,   241,   255,   257, 


283,  289,  294,  295,  298,  314,  316, 
3*7.  3*9.  322,  323,  339,  342,  360- 
362,  365,  368,  369,  372,  374,  375. 
See  also  Missionaries  and  Missions. 

"Fortune  Blocks,"  201 

Fourteenth  Infantry,  175,  182 

Fourth  of  July  celebration,  75-77,  115 

French  Legation,  113,  119,  127,  128, 
13°.  !39>  145.  166 

French  Legation  doctor  visited  Em- 
peror, 26 

French  Minister,  24,  92,  102,  114, 
138,  i75>  349.  35i 

Fu,  109,  122-124,  126-129,  !39)  "i5i> 
153,  284,  363.     See  Su  Palace 

Funds  for  charitable  purpose,  method 
of  raising,  257,  258,  297 

Funeral  obsequies  of  Viceroy  Li 
Hung  Chang,  212-215;  °f  Dowa- 
ger Princess  Su,  284-287;  of  Mrs. 
Wang  Wen  Shao,  307,  308. 

Fusan,  85 


G.,  Mr.,  missionary,  207 

G.,  Mrs.,  137 

Gamewell,  Mrs.,  34 

Gattrel,  Mrs.,  227 

Gentlemen    in    ladies'    society,    268, 

3" 
German  Legation,  126-128,  130,  139, 

145,  148,  173,  350 
German  Minister,  24,  103,  108,  109, 

US.  35i 

Germans  at  Tsintan,  345 

"Giant  date,"  357 

Gift-giving  among  Chinese,  312 

Gifts,  Diplomatic  Corps  request  Chi- 
nese Court  not  to  present,  222,  224 

Gods,  birthdays  of,  208 

"Good-luck  stone,"  353 

Gordon,  Major,  324 

Gracey,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  338,  341 

Grand  Canal,  210,  320 

Graves,  many,  5,  10,  356 

Great  Bell,  Bell  Temple,  58,  59,  210 

Great  Bell,  Temple  of  the,  Nanking, 
330 

Great  Bore,  near  Hang  Chow,  323, 

324 
Great  Wall  of  China,  1,  12-14,  62,  64, 

210,  317 
Greek  Church,  service  of,  145,  146 
Green,  Captain,  199,  206 


386 


INDEX 


H 

H.,  Miss,  of  Kiukiang,  331 

Hall,  Captain,  93,  96,  104,  134,  137 

Hang  Chow,  321-324 

Han  Kow,  332-334,  358 

Hanlin  College,  144 

Hart,  Sir  Robert,  142,  149,  153,  169, 

186,  187,  354 
Hartwell,  Dr.,  340 
Haskins,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  354 
Hatamen  gate,  no,  133,  154,  164 
Hay,  Hon.  John,  181 
Head  boy,  duties  of,  6,  8,  20 
Headland,   Dr.   Isaac  T.,    276-278 
Headland,  Mrs.,  2.4,  299,  304,  306, 

313,  348,  349,  351 
"Heathen"  and  Christian,  159,  200 
Heaven,  Hall  of,  79 
Heaven,  Temple  of,  Peking,  3,  162, 

169,  170,  187 
Hell,  Hall  of,  79 
Heng,  Lady,  310,  311 
History  traced  for  5,000  years,  30,  31 
Hoag,  Dr.,  336,  337         \ 
Hochou,  troubles  for  missionaries  in,  22 
Home    for    aged,    destitute    Chinese 

women,  34,  35,  257 
Homes  in  compounds,  266 
Hong  Kong,  199,  205,  206 
Horse  meat  food  for  besieged  lega- 
tions, 113,  117,  153,  187 
Hospitals,  army,  193 
Hotel  in  Peking,  wreck  of,  145 
House-boats,  Imperial,  238 ;  on  Grand 

Canal,  320 
Hsien  Feng,  Emperor,  367 
Hsu,  His  Excellency  Mr.,  and  family, 

266-269,  3^4 
Huang-ti,  title  of  Emperor,  13 

I 

Idlers,  none  in  China,  8 

Idol  worship,  70 

Idols,  temple  containing  508,  78,  79 

Imperial  Canal,  238 

Imperial  carriage  park,  174,  175 

Imperial  City,  Peking,  2,  166 

Imperial  College.  See  Imperial  Uni- 
versity 

Imperial  Court,  flight  and  absence  of, 
162,  163,  169,  172,  177,  181,  190, 
195,  215,  216,  219,  221,  223,  229, 
255.  353 


Imperial   Customs  buildings  burned, 

no 
Imperial  Customs  people,  133,  157 
Imperial  gate,  3,  105,  208 
Imperial  Industrial  School,   297,   298 
Imperial  porcelain  industry,  331 
Imperial  Princess,  221,  225,  227,  228, 

233>.  236,  245,  271,366,371 
Imperial  silk- weaving,  327 
Imperial  University  (or  College),    23, 

86,  177 
Imperial  Western  Tombs,  315 
Independence  Day  celebration,  75—77, 

ii5 

India  ink,  correctly  called  Chinese 
ink,  278 

Industry  of  Chinese,  8,  32,  46,  65,  202, 
362 

Inn,  Chinese,  11 

Interior  cities,  83,  199 

Intermarriage  of  Chinese  and  for- 
eigners, 66 

"International,"  improvised  gun,  123, 
125-127,  130,  136,  157 

Intoxication  rare,  32 

Iron  tablet,  superstition  concerning, 
256 

Italian  convent,  Han  Kow,  332,  333 

Italian  Legation,  127,  166 

Italian  Minister,  24,  272,  273 


Jade  quarries,  262 

Japan,  4,  86,  343,  344;  Chinese  em- 
ployed in,  8;  in  war  with  Russia, 
299.     See  Russo-Japanese  War. 

Japanese  art,  277 

Japanese,  endurance  of,  347 

Japanese  Legation,  127,  148 

Japanese  Legation  attache,  98 

Japanese  Minister,  24,  27 

Japanese  quarters,  Peking,  171,  194 

Japanese  teaching  in  China,  365 

Jenks',  Professor,  monetary  system, 
studied  in  China,  269 

Jesuits  in  China,  63 

Jingal,  a  large  gun:  26,  123 

Joe  Fu,  Viceroy,  359 

Joint  Note  between  China  and  the 
powers,  178,  192,  193,  195,  198, 
223,  237,  255,  369 

Jung,  Duke,  249 

Jung  Lu,  General,  132,  135,  136,  140, 
215,  245,  279 


INDEX 


387 


Kahn,  Dr.,  331 

K'ang,  or  bed,  11 

Kang  Tai  Tai,  Mrs.  Conger's  Chinese 

name,  220 
Kao,  Mrs.,  263,  306 
K'e,  Dowager  Princess,  279-282,  299, 

300,  302,  349 
K'e  Palace,  281,  300,  372 
K'e,  Prince,  282 
K'e,  Princess,  281 
Kemp,  Admiral,  205 
KempfE,  Admiral,  92 
Kentucky,  warship,  205,  206 
Killie,  Mr.,  356 

Kissing  not  a  Chinese  custom,  308 
Kitchen  equipment,  Chinese,  7 
Kiukiang,  330,  331 
Knox  College,  Galesburg,  111.,  tablet 

presented  to,  192 
Kobe,  Japan,  85 
Korea,  85 ;  its  language,  86 
Korean  Legation,  261 
Kotow,  68 
Kuling,  339,  340 

Kung,  Prince,  granddaughter  of,  225 
Kyoto,  Japan,  85,  86 


Ladies  of  rank,  41,  73,  74,  203,  218, 
221,  222,  225-229,  232-2367  251, 
258,  263-269,  271-273,  279-282, 
284-286;  288,  293-296,  298-313, 
348-351,  360,  361,  363-366,   370- 

373 

Lama  Temple  service,  211,  212 

Language,  spoken  and  written,  30,  31, 
200,  317 ;  what  Chinese  has  in  com- 
mon with  Japanese  and  Korean, 
86;  "pidgin  English"  and  dia- 
lects, 255 

Lanterns,  71,  72,  312,  319 

Learning,  antiquity  of  Chinese,  368, 

369 
Lee  Chee,  Mr.,  202-204 
Legation  guards,  24-29,  8^-96,  101- 

103,   107,   109-113,   115,   119,   121, 

126,   129-131,   133-135*    x48,    149. 

151,  152,  154,  155,  157,  199,  207 
Leonard,  Dr.,  167,  184 
Lien  Fang,  225 
Li  Hung  Chang,  Viceroy,  56,  63,  64, 

73,  74,  138,  152,  169,  175,  179,  181, 


182,   187,   192,  202,   212-215,   221, 

241,  304;    and  family,  56,  63,  64, 

73.  74,  268 
Lippet,  Dr.,  93,  no,  121,  134,  184 
Liquors,  32 
Literature,   China's  great  period  in, 

60,  61 
Loads,    heavy,    put   upon   men   and 

beasts,  281 
Lotus  leaf,  symbolism  of,  269 
"Love  characters,"  302 
Lowry,  Dr.  H.  H.,  27,  28,  121,  350 
Lowry,  Mr.,  149 
Lowry,  Mrs.,  149 
Lowry,  Mrs.  Edward,  299 

M 

t".,  Mrs.,  126 

M.,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  of  Nanking,  330 
Macao,  Portuguese  settlement  at,  63 
McCalla,  Captain,  93,  105,  199 
MacDonald,  Lady,  35,  40,  97,   109, 

114,  170,  175 
MacDonald,  Sir  Claude.     See  British 

Minister. 
Mackey,  Dr.  Maud,  184,  234,  235 
McKinley,  President,  167,  181 
Manchu  and  Chinese  ladies  do  not 

interming    ,  361 
Manchu  or   ji  of  queue,  51 
Manchu  Princesses,  229 
Mandarin,  home  and  family  of,  202- 

205 
Marigold  (orange),  symbolism  of,  270 
Marines,  foreign,  in  China.     See  Le- 
gation guards 
Marriage  customs,  282 
Martin,  Dr.,  23,  120,  128,  134,  140, 

146,  177 
Masters  of  painting  and  their  pupils, 

277 
Maus,  Colonel  and  Mrs.,  243,  245 
Meaning  back  of  acts,  symbols,  etc., 

21,  32,  37,  7o,  717   204,   241,  260, 

269,  270,  308,  3 1 2,  325 
Memory  a  Chinese  characteristic,  19, 

32,  56,  255,  269,  298,  362 
Men,  Peking  a  city  of,  2,  317 
Methodist   mission,    Peking,   95,   96, 

99,  104,  109,  no 
Methodist  mission  Sunday  school,  35, 

36 
Miao,  Lady,  278 
Mikado  Palace,  Kyoto,  86 


388 


INDEX 


Miles,  General  and  Mrs.,  242-246 

Military  drill  among  Chinese  stu- 
dents, 374 

Ming  Dynasty,  62,  277 

Ming  Tombs,  near  Peking,  14-16, 
62,  328;    near  Nanking,  328 

Ming-ti,  Emperor,  62 

Mint  at  Nanking,  329 

Missionaries  and  Missions,  9,  22-24, 
27,  28,  35,  36,  47,  48,  63,  90,  93-96, 
98,  99,  101-104,  109,  no,  122,  133, 
155,  158,  162,  163,  165-168,  183, 
192,  207,  226,  227,  265,  268,  269, 
283,  293-295,  314-318.  32I>  322> 
325-328,  330-341,  348-35o.  355. 
356,  361-365.     See  also  Foreigners 

Mogi,  Japan,  343 

Mokpo,  85 

Money,  love  of,  21 

Mongolia,  13  ,14,  44,  364 

Mongolian  Prince  and  Princess,  284, 

364,  372 
Monoliths,  avenue  of,  16,  17 
Moon  Feast,  254,  276 
Moon,  Temple  of,  Peking,  3 
Morrison,  Dr.,  134,  174 
"Mother-in-law,  cruel,"  280 
Mother-in-law,   daughter-in-law   may 

not  sit  in  presence  of,  281 
Mourning  customs,  51,  52,  213-215, 

268,  285-287,  307,  308 
Music,  Chinese  are  lovers  of,  32,  361; 

at  wedding  feast,  300;   Chinese  and 

foreign,  322;   in  missions,  327,  328, 

334 
Myers,  Captain,  93,  98,  99,  101,  in, 
120,  121,  134,  145,  149.  i52.  I53. 


184 


N 


Nagasaki,  Japan,  343 

Nanking,  62,  327-33°>  359 

Nankou,  11 

Nankou  pass,  12 

Nantang  Catholic  hospital,  29;  mis- 
sion, 96,  99,  102,  103 

Nan  Yang  College,  319,  320 

National  airs,  185,  186 

Native  City,  Peking,  2,  162,  164 

Na  Tung,  His  Excellency,  350 

Nealy,  Mr.,  government  architect, 
273,  296,  354 

Negoya,  Japan,  86 

Nervousness,  Chinese  never  show,  8 

Nestergard,  Mr.,  146 


New  Year's  Day,  season  for  paying 
respects  to  superiors,  38,  246;  Chi- 
nese celebration,  208 

Newark,  flagship,  92,  199 

Newchwang,  262 

Newspaper,  women's,  299,  371,  373 

Niece  of  Empress  Dowager,  221,  225, 
251.     See  Shun,  Princess 

Night,  trains  do  not  run  at,  357 

Nigo  Castle,  Kyoto,  86 

Nine  Classics  in  Chinese  literature, 
60 

Nippon,  S.  S.,  206 

Noise,  Chinese  frightened  at,  125 

Noninterference,  Chinese  policy  of, 
69,  70 

North  China,  climate  of,  43,  83; 
mode  of  travel  in,  83;  discontent 
in,  89;  working  women  seldom 
seen  in,  201;  English  taught  and 
spoken  in,  326,  359 


Officials,  hardest-worked  people  in 
Empire,  46;  afraid  of  one  another, 
62;  showed  disrespect  to  foreign- 
ers, 189;    dinners  to,  229,  243 

Oleander,  symbolism  of,  269 

Opium,  315 

Opium  reform,  374 

Opportunities  in  Far  East,  22 

Order  of  the  Double  Dragon,  312,  352 


Pack-trains  from  Mongolia,  12 

Pagoda,  largest,  325 

Pahz  Ztah,  largest  pagoda,  325 

Painting,  Chinese,  277,  278 

Paints,  mixing  of,  277 

Palace  where  four  Princesses  jumped 
into  well,  163,  279 

Paoting  Fu,  94,  96,  167,  183,  184,  315, 
316,  356 

Parents,  respect  for,  46,  280;  mur- 
der of,  the  worst  crime,  71;  loved 
by  children,  309,  361 

Patience  characteristic  of  Chinese,  14, 

323.  362 

Patriotism,  Boxer  movement  origi- 
nated in,  142 ;  shown  in  decorations, 
321,  334;  taught  in  schools,  323, 
334;  awakening  of,  374 

Pattern,  working  from,  298 


INDEX 


389 


Peach,  symbolism  of,  70,   269 

Pechon,  M.,  French  Minister,  92 

Peilo  on  avenue  to  Ming  Tombs,  16 

Peitang,  Roman  Catholic  mission, 
96,  99,  102,  103,  119,  139,  162,  165, 
166 

Peking,  city  of  men,  2,  317;  walled 
cities  in,  2,  3;  frozen  in  during 
winter,  24;  foreign  marines  arrive 
in,  25,  26;  supplies  brought  into, 
44,  173,  233;  Confucian  temple  in, 
60,  61;  capital  moved  to,  62;  Le- 
gation flags  in,  67;  unescorted 
women  in,  68,  231,  232;  siege  and 
relief  of,  95-160,  182;  missionaries 
brought  to,  95;  cut  off  from  com- 
munication, 97,  98;  Diplomatic 
Corps  asked  to  leave,  108,  131,  139, 
143;  conditions  in,  after  siege, 
160-167,  169-180,  190,  194;  Brit- 
ish built  railroad  into,  187,  188; 
bridge  in,  210;  return  of  Court  to, 
215,  216;  city  of  the  "blue  gown," 
238,  317;  wall  of,  329;  large  bell 
in,  330;   schools  in,  371 

Peking  Gazette,  253 

Peking  Observatory,  53-55,  172,  177, 
210 

P'eng  courts,  261 

Perspective  in  Chinese  art,  278 

Pethick,  Miss,  241 

Pethick,  Mr.,  73,  74,  103,  241,  242 

Pets,  Chinese  love  of,  32,  361 

Philippines,  342 

Photographs  of  Chinese  ladies,  351, 
366 

"Pidgin  English,"  255 

Pigeons,  carrier,  209 

Pilgrimages,  to  tombs  of  Emperors, 
15;  to  tombs  of  ancestors,  46,  188, 
356,358;  to  keep  a  vow,  322 

Pirates,  punishment  of,  201,  202 

Pi  Yiin  Ssu,  Temple  of  Five  Hun- 
dred and  Eight  Idols,  78-81 

Poems  illustrated  by  Empress  Dowa- 
ger, 267 

Poisoned  food,  fear  of,  146 

Political  preferment,  education  only 
road  to,  32 

Pomegranate,  symbolism  of,   70 

Poole,  Captain,  144 

Poppies,  fields  of,  315 

Porcelain  for  Imperial  use,  331 

Porcelain  Tower,  328,  329 

Port  Arthur  captured,  339,  340 


Porter,  Miss,  294 

Portrait  of   Empress  Dowager,    248, 

271,  272,  291,  292,  352 
Portuguese  in  China,  63 
Postal  Telegraph  wire,  94,  97 
Priest,  death  of,  ceremonies  attendant 

upon,  84 
Princesses  jumped  into  well,  163,  279 
Princeton,  warship,  85 
Prittwit,  Mrs.,  35 
Private  schools  for  girls,  372 
Prize  ships,  344 
Protestants  lead  in  higher  educational 

mission  schools,  338 
Protocol    between     China    and    the 

powers,    178,    195,    198,    223,    237, 

255.  369 
Public    accommodations   for    visitors 

to  Peking,  230,  231 
Pu  Lun,  Prince,  and  family,  312-314, 

35° 
Punishments,   for   Boxers,    187;     for 
crimes,  201,  202 


Queue,  late  Emperor  wished  to  dis- 
card, 23;  history  of  custom  of 
wearing,  51,  52;  worn  by  Manchus 
and  Chinese,  361 


Ragsdale,    Mr.,    U.    S.    Consul    at 

Tientsin,  199 
Railway  car  presented  by  France  to 

Empress  Dowager,  40 
Railway,   Chinese  employed  on,   64; 

built  into  Peking,  187,  188 
Range,  Chinese,  7 
Red  Cross  hospital,  at  Peking,  176; 

at  Sasebo,  Japan,  343 
Red,  Princesses'  color,  226;   wedding 

color,  300 
Religion   and  worship,   Chinese,   ^^, 

46,  50,  60,  201,  211,  212,  277 
Requests  to  be  carried  to  Their  Ma- 
jesties, 252,  364 
Rice  principal  diet  of  coolies,  7 
Riley,  Captain,  161 
Roads,  12 

Robinson,  Miss,  334,  335 
Rock  Hills,  mission  on,  Swatow,  341 
Roman   Catholic   missions,   96,    102, 

33*~333 


39° 


INDEX 


Roosevelt,  President,  344 

Rug  weavers  at  Imperial  Industrial 

School,  298 
Russian  bank,  147 
Russian  Legation,  101,  107,  127,  134, 

169,  173,  182 
Russian  Minister,    24,   92,    138,    145, 

169,  173,  175,  182 
Russian  national  hymn,  185,  186 
Russians  in  Newchwang,  262 
Russo-Japanese  War,   262,  273,  299, 

324,  340,  343,  346 


Sad  news  never  told  to  bride,  269 

St.  John's  College,  337,  338 

St.  Louis  Exposition,   248,  292,  314, 

337,  364 
Salutation,  manner  of,  301 
San  Francisco  earthquake,  China's  aid 

after,  366,  373 
San  Shan  An  Temple,  Western  Hills,  6 
Sasebo,  Japan,  343 
Satow,  Sir  Ernest,  175 
Saussine,  Mrs.,  220 
Scholars  at  Examination  Halls,  56 
Schools,  297,  298,  314,  318-320,  323, 

326,   327,   33J-333,   335-338,   34i, 

362-365,  371,  372 
Schools  of  art,  278 
Sea  Wall,  Hang  Chow,  323 
Seasons  for  shop  goods,  71,  72 
Secondary  wives,  282 
Servants,  Chinese,  6,  8,  19-21,  36-38, 

159,   303,   312;    number  attending 

Princesses  and  officials,  229,  232 
Seventeen-arched  marble  bridge,  239 
Seymour,  Admiral,  97,  137 
Shanghai,  4,  199,  319,  359 
Shan-hai  Kuan,  13,  64 
Shantung,  345 
Shew,  Mr.,  325 

Shew's  Gardens,  Soo  Chow,  325 
Shiba,  Colonel,  147 
Shopping  for  rare  goods,  258-260 
Shops  of  Ci.nton,  201 
"Short  cut"  in  mathematics  not  new 

to  Chinese,  368,  369 
Shun,   Princess,   251,   278,   365.     See 

Niece  of  Empress  Dowager 
Sian  Fu,  Court  at,  190 
Siberia,  S.  S.,  347,  359,  36° 
Sick,  care  of,  70;  do  not  take  to  their 

beds,  321 


Siege  and  relief  of  the  Legations,  95- 
168,  171,  172,  174,  176,  178-182, 
184,  186,  187,  189,  190,  195,  198, 
199,  220,  223,  242,  246,  248,  279, 
283,  284,  296,  304,  315,  316,  353, 
,  360,  363,  368 

Silk  industry,  327 

Silkworm,  god  of  the,  270 

Singing  in  mission  schools,  322,  328, 

334,  335 
Sisters  of  the  Great  Bell,  legend  of  the, 

.33° 
Sixtieth  birthday  of  great  note,  263, 

3!° 

Sleep  of  coolie  laborers,  8 

Sleeping  Buddha,  78,  81,  82 

Sleight-of-hand  performers,  Chinese 
skilled  as,  32 

Smallpox  among  Legation  guards,  28, 
29 

Smith,  Dr.,  134 

Socks  (leather)  for  swine,  14 

Soil  not  depleted,  83,  358 

Soldiers,  Chinese,  26,  38,  89,  95-97, 
99,  106,  in,  114-116,  126,  130- 
!32>  x35,  *36,  J38>  I4o,  143,  144, 
15°,  IS1!  x54,  i55,  157!  l63,  l64, 
171,  172,  174,  176,  184,  279 

Soo  Chow,  324,  325 

South,  catafalques,  thrones,  temples, 
etc.,  always  face,  61,  171,  285,  330 

South  China,  working  women  in,  201 ; 
English  taught  and  spoken  in,  326, 

35? 
Spanish  Legation,  127 
Spanish  Minister,  126 
Spoils  of  war,  American  Government 

does  not  recognize,  164,  177,  372 
Sportsmen,  Chinese  skilled  as,  32 
"Squeeze,"  or  servants'  commission, 

6,  19-21 
Stewart,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  327 
Stone,  Dr.,  and  sister,  of  Kiukiang, 

33i 
Strouts,  Captain,  134 
Su,   Dowager  Princess,   284-287 
Su  Palace,  283,  284,  363 
Su,  Prince,  123,  283,  284,   286,  372; 

and  family,  284-287,  363,  372 
Summer  Palace,   237-240 
Sun-dials,  54 

Sun,  Temple  of,  Peking,  3 
Sunday    observance    not    known    in 

China,  33 
Sunday  school,  visit  to,  35,  36 


INDEX 


39* 


Superstitions,  65,  119,  141,  142,  174, 

183,  256 
Surprise,  Chinese  seldom  exhibit,  264 
Swatow,  341 

Swine  protected  for  travelling,  14 
Symbolism.     See    Meaning    back    of 

acts,  symbols,  etc. 


Taiping  Rebellion,  324,  328 

Ta  Ku,  89,  91,  137,  138,  199 

Taoism,  33 

Taotai,  of  Shanghai,  4,  5 ;  of  Canton, 

203 
Tartar  City,  Peking,  2,  164 
Tea  "factory,"  333 
Telegraph  wires  cut,  94,  97,  98,  107; 

re-established,  165 
Telephones  in  Chinese  homes,  298 
Temple  to  Confucius,  Peking,  60,  61; 

at  Nan  Yang  College,  319,  320 
Temples  in  Peking,   3;    at  Western 

Hills,  6,  9,  75 ;   open  day  and  night, 

33>  5°;  goods  sold  in,  72;   at  Hang 

Chow,  324 
Thanksgiving  Day,  at  Legation,  27, 

28;   similarity  to  Moon  Feast,  254; 

on  Yangtze  River,  326 
Theatricals,  Chinese  love  for,  32;    in 

home  of  Mandarin,  204;    at  birth- 
day celebration,  311 
Thousand  Buddhas,  Hall  of,  79 
Tientsin,  5,  25,  90,  92,  95,  97,  107, 

108,  115,  116,  126,  137-140,  143- 

145,  i47~I49>  l65,  I09>  i7°>  r73> 

175,  182,  191,  195,  199 
Tiffin  to  Court  Princesses,   225-229, 

304,    369;      return    invitation    by 

Princesses,  231-233,  304;   inquiries 

concerning,  234—236 
Trains,  night,  357 
Translations   into   Chinese   language 

introduced    by    missionaries,    268, 

269 
Travel,  matter  of  business  solely  with 

Chinese,    12;    mode  of,   in  North 

China,  83 
Treaty   between   China   and   United 

States,  283 
Treaty  ports,  82 
Tsai  Husu,  141 
Tsintan,  345,  346 
Tsung  Li  Yamen,  24,  38,  39,  62,  89- 

92,  94,  97-ioo,  105-109,  131,  135, 


138-143,  i47>  i49~I56>  I76»  l89, 
255 

Tuan,  Prince,  126,  141 

Tungchow,  persecution  of  mission- 
aries at,  94,  95,  99,  144 

u 

Uchida,  Mrs.,  231,  232 
United  States.     See  American 
United  States  Government,  Empress 
Dowager's  portrait  presented  to,  292 
Unmarried  ladies  do  not  meet  gentle- 
men, 268 


Vegetation   partakes  of   nature   of 
persons  caring  for  it,  21;    adapta- 
ble in  hands  of  Chinese,  226 
Victoria,  Queen,  death  of,  196 
Von  Ketteler,  Baron,  German  Minis- 
ter, 109,  177 
Von  Ketteler,  Baroness,  109 
Vow,  pilgrimage  to  keep,  322 

w 

W.,  Mrs.,  116 

Wai  Wu  Pu,  255,  306 

Wall,    Chinese.     See   Great   Wall  of 

China 
Walls,  China  a  country  of,  1,  317 
Wang,  head   boy,  84,  89,   101,   118, 

120,  143,  159,  161,  191,  225,  229, 

230,  259,  288,  348,  349,  353,  354, 

358 
Wang  Kai  Kai,  His  Excellency,  350 
Wang  Kia  Tien,  358 
Wang  Wen  Shao,  His  Excellency,  306, 

3°8,  309 
Wang  Wen  Shao,  Mrs.,  263,  265,  288, 

306-309 
Warren,    Mr.,   British    student,    132, 

134 
Water  clock,  54 
Western  customs  and  enterprises,  late 

Emperor  a  friend  of,  23,  25 
Western  Hills,  5,  6,  9,  75,  98,  173, 174, 

354 
Wheelbarrow  men,  7,  64,  65 
Wheels  of  life,  symbolism  of,  80 
Wherry,  Dr.,  134,  350 
Whistles  on  carrier  pigeons,  209 
White  dress  of  Koreans,  85 


392 


INDEX 


Williams,  Mr.,  Legation  Secretary, 
213,    219,    313;     Mr.    and    Mrs., 

354 

Wilson,  General,  174 

Wint,  Colonel,  194 

Wives,  secondary,  282 

Wo  Fu  Ssu,  Temple  of  the  Sleeping 
Buddha,  78,  81,  82 

Woman's  Winter  Refuge,  34,  35,  257, 
297 

Women,  Chinese,  50,  71;  work  on 
boats  and  in  streets,  201,  339;  not 
present  at  temple  worship,  212; 
not  seen  on  streets,  317;  standing 
of,  377.     See  Ladies  of  rank. 

Women,  foreign,  should  not  go  unes- 
corted in  Peking,  68,  230,  231 

Worship  in  temples,  form  of,  50 


Wright,  Governor  General  and  Mrs., 

342 
Wu  Ch'ang  mission  school,  333 
Wu  Ting  Fang,  136 


Yamen.     See  Tsung  Li  Yamen 
Yangtze   River,   326,   327,   332,   334, 

358>  359 
Yaun-Shih-Kai,  215 
Yellow  River  districts,  floodsjof ,  63, 356 
Yellow  soil,  roads  spread  with,  for  use 

of  Court,  238,  270 
Yellow  Temple,  57 
Yii,  Lady,  247,  271 
Yu,  Mrs.,  293 
Yung-lo,  Emperor,  15,  62     , 


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